I have a 2011 Ranger with four wheel drive, a manual transmission and 34000 miles on it. The transmission gets very stiff after sitting for a while. At the worst I can't get it into first or reverse at all without hunting through all the other gears to find one it will shift into to get things moving. Is this normal for this vehicle or should I worry?
View 4 RepliesMy transmission has recently locked itself up in reverse. The shifter can easily shift through 1st-5th but if i attempt to drive forward it is still in reverse and works against each other. If shifter is left in neutral position it is still in reverse. If i push the clutch in the truck will move freely. I have taken the cover off of the tranny and all of the gears appear undamaged. It was dry however, and i replenished the trans fluid but it still is stuck in reverse. baffled.
View 2 RepliesA friend has a 2010 ranger with the 2.3L with the manual transmission. He said that when he drives and the rpms are up he said he gets a grinding noise it doesn't matter what gear 1rst or 5th. He think throw out bearing but no noises at all until the rpms are up there. I was think internal like shift fork but don't know.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2011 F-150 with the v-6 automatic. The truck has just under 45,000 miles on it. Couple of times I have started it up in the morning to head to work, and when I put it in gear(fwd or reverse) it seems to slip at first. It does it just the one time, then it will be fine. It only happens in the morning after sitting for the night and when it is cooler(Arizona here so hasn't gotten much cooler than the 50's at night so far). I need to take the truck in for another issue, but thought I would ask on here first.
View 14 RepliesI have a '97 Ranger with about 120k, 5 spd manual transmission, 2wd. For the last 2-3 months I'm hearing and feeling a clunking or rattling noise (I can't decide which it is) coming from the rear of the vehicle at random times.
I can't really predict or find a pattern of when the noise will happen, but it seems like it is most likely to happen when I'm either accelerating up a hill or when I'm braking relatively hard. It happens whether the clutch is in or out. Doesn't seem to matter. It does NOT happen when idling, only when traveling. I don't ever remember it happening at highway speed (65mph).
If I have my hand on the stick shift I can feel the shaking / rattling as it happens. There seems to be no impact on the performance of the vehicle - no additional trouble shifting into or out of gear, accelerating, or anything else.
On a recent trip I towed a 1,000 lb trailer and I did not feel or hear the noise at all during that trip (about an hour each way). Any guess as to whats going on?
2011 w/ 80k 6 spd man w/column start.
The last couple of months getting first crank attempt symptoms. Cranks fine but won't turn over. 2nd time fine. No OBD codes. Other times np at all. But today big problem.
- Started fine @ 5 degrees F (unusual for area)
- Warmed up fine
- Left in parking lot for 10 min
- Attempted start, could not. Then again the next 8 times.
- Finally wore down battery. Had it towed to dealer (I could feel the pocket suction)
Explained issue to dealer. 3 hrs later they called. Said it was the battery, had only 290 cc left. I explained before I wore it down there was plenty of power avail. Whatever, screwed anyway -- pay $115 diag or $149 for battery, just take the battery I said.
Took it home, seems fine for now but explained if I have to take my very sick son out in cold weather tomorrow there will be repercussions. Anyway, the whole situation is bizarre.
I've looked on other threads with auto tns and brake switch issues but that does not apply to manual. Only requirement is step on clutch. I read about crankshaft sensor but no codes. Only thing I found was perhaps loose fuses or wiring but dealer said they checked that and whole system is good.
Have this problem when the temperature is below 30F? This problem appeared one day when the car was parked outside overnight and the temperature dipped into the 20s. It refuses to upshift to 2nd from 1st unless driven for 10 minutes or so and will grind when downshifting to first even from 3 mph. The upshift to 2nd feels like a wall blocking so I just end up shifting to 3rd straight from 1st until it's warmed up for 10 minutes or so. Worn syncros? Shift fork/linkages? Dragging clutch? I'm sure the dealer will want to replace the fluid first but new fluid will not fix mechanical problems if indeed that's what it is. Strange part is that both 1 and 2 both started to have the problem at the same time so how can both synchros go out at once and this problem only appeared this winter and not last winter so it doesn't seem like its an inherent problem from the start.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2011 Camry 6 speed Manual Transmission and every so often when I shift gears I hear a squeal noise in the engine right as I fully let off the clutch and give it gas in the next gear up. It usually does it when shifting to 2, 3, and 4th gear. Any other Manual Camry owner with this issue that might know what it is? I never really hear it if I take off slow or shift at a slow/normal pace, but if I'm in a rush and have to pick up and GO then most likely will do it.
View 4 RepliesI got a 2011 250 SD 6.2, I have what feels like a catch in the steering, on center, when you turn the wheel feels like it just gives and stay's there, either way you turn, Checked front end, ball joints tie rods etc., the hubs are unlocked, feels like when the u-joint on the steering shaft goes bad and you get that bind. But this truck doesn't have them anymore, just a rag joint at the box. It only binds at center, and wont return, took steering stabilizer off and road tested same thing, air in tires good all the way around, has about 58,000 miles on it.
View 6 Replies87k miles with no problems ever. I was driving on the highway last night and next thing you know I lost the engine/power and all the dash lights came on so I pulled over and after the dash lights stopped kind of flickering I could not start the car back up. I tried all the tricks I read about...holding the start button in for 30 seconds, rocking the car to loosen brakes, etc and still car wont start. I have a new battery and car was just serviced last week. Oil is good. Radio and all electronics work fine. Brake light comes on when depressed but its stiff. I tried a code reader on it and its generating zero codes.
View 3 RepliesFord Ranger 20012.5L
Manual 4 Cylinder4x2
Drivetrain~150K Miles
The problem with the vehicle is that it won't shift into gear easily and smoothly. It started occurring just this last Friday or Saturday (2011-06-24 or 2011-06-25). I was driving around 35 MPH, slowed down to a stop at an intersection, and when I put it back into 1st Gear to begin driving, I had extreme difficulty shifting the gear.
I cut the ignition and started again, was able to put it into 1st Gear and made it home by coasting (getting into any of the other Gears was just as difficult, fortunately I was in the neighborhood). Following this, I tested it while parked the next day. Same issue. Then I tried double-clutching, which seemed to work out, but I only did it parked, since I didn't want to strand myself on a road (I'll take that risk when I go to a mechanic, though).
I've read this [URL] ...., I'm pretty sure it's the clutch (master/slave cylinder) and I'm also aware that it could be the transmission fluid requiring a change. I haven't changed the transmission fluid at the 60K & 120K interval per Ford's suggested maintenance schedule (I got it around 50K-60K from a dealership, so I'm not sure if they may have done it preemptively).
A couple other details. For the past year or so, I've been driving 100 Highway miles for 4-5 days a week, for work (50 to work, 50 back home).
Are my assumptions right, or is it possible that my whole Transmission is getting ready to go? Are there any other details I should provide?
My 04 EDGE 3.0 when sitting in Park will not rev up past 3500 RPM. The check engine light has been on for awhile showing P0316 and I believe P0302. My mechanic said number 2 is misfiring; the coil packs/wires/injectors are all good. He said eventually if I want to keep it a new engine would be needed, but as long as it's not burning oil it should be okay to drive for awhile. Why it won't rev up? I wouldn't think one cylinder misfiring would cause that.
View 3 RepliesHave a 13 Sonata Limited 2.0t and for some reason it won't start.
Also brake pedal is extremely stiff. Tried to push start button several times while pressing brake, and dash lights just blink several times.
I'm having a little issue with shifting into first. Once in a while it simply will not go in, like you're pushing the shifter against a brick wall. If I turn off the truck and turn it back on, it works absolutely fine. I can shift into 2nd-5th no problem at all times. Is it just the shift linkage, or...? I'm not really sure where to start.
View 7 RepliesI'm 1200 miles from home living in a hotel right now. Was on my way to the store this morning and I took it out of gear. When to put it back in, and it wouldn't go in. Fortunately, I was still moving, so I coasted off into a parking lot. Once I shut the engine off, it went right into gear. It moves freely through them all. As soon as I start the engine, it won't shift. It is not my clutch. I can start the engine with it in gear and the clutch in, and it won't creep at all (was sitting on level ground when I tried). At least this means I can get it places if I slip the clutch a lot. Took the inspection cover off, and all looks well in there. It hasn't been acting strange. It shifted just fine right up until this. No strange noises either until now.
Now there is a slight squeaking sound if I try to force it into gear with our without the clutch pushed in. Since I've never let a mechanic touch my baby before, and I have to now, what possible things should I be looking for to make sure they are honest? I'm thinking maybe I killed my pilot bearing? Second, while its apart, I'm going to have them replace the clutch and slave cylinder since its got 160K on it and as far as I know, the previous owners never did that. Recommendations on what clutch to get? Its been towing some lately. I don't know if that makes a difference.
I recently bought a 1994 Ford Ranger, XLT 4 cylinder supercab. They lost the door keys when they replaced the ignition because they never locked their doors. I bought new lock cylinders with keys and set out for an adventure. Removing the metal clamp that holds the cylinder in place was actually easier than I thought. It's that darn plastic piece connecting the cylinder to the rod for the lock system that will not break or come off. Here's the best picture I could find real quick. How do you get that vile piece of 20 year old plastic off? It's in a difficult place to get tools in there, and I can't seem to get leverage with a small screwdriver anywhere. What tips and tricks do y'all have?
View 1 Replies1996 4x4, manual trans. Wants to kick out of first, and when shifting into 3rd I have no gear. Doesnt grind, just goes in as though it were neutral.
View 4 RepliesWhen my Excursion sits for a while, the transmission slips a lot at first till it builds up pressure. Is this a problem? It seem fine other than this.
View 12 Replies3300 miles in, and my brake pedal is extremely hard/stiff when I attempt to start the car. I don't have issues getting it to turn on, but it literally moves maybe 1/4 inch at most. It just randomly started doing this.
View 10 RepliesMy 4x4 4WD Ranger has a 5 speed manual tranny that locks up after going forward a few feet. It can back up all day long but locks up going forward. some god awful noises (grinding, clunking, etc) come out of that gearbox. the 4wd is electrically operated. the ? is , can this tranny be rebuilt with a kit? I'm having great difficulty finding a replacement. Are bronco II's compatible? Engine is 2.9L V6. On disassembly I found 2 meshing gears with broken teeth.
View 5 RepliesI've got an issue with my 92 2.3 ranger.... sitting at idle for 30 or so seconds it starts to chug and sometimes dies.... I can hit the throttle and its fine for another 30 or so seconds.... while cruising on the freeway after about 30 minutes it starts to cut out badly... let out of throttle for a few seconds and it clears up and drives fine...
Here's the part that has me confused... pulled codes yesterday using a innova scan tool...
koeo were 4, 10, and 538...
koer were 111, 10, 157, 158, 181, 327, 328, and 334....
How does it give me a 111 pass code and then still come up with all the other codes? I am thinking my ecu may be screwed.....