Ford - Ranger :: 2007 - Sputtering While Idling As If Out Of Gas
Feb 6, 2012
I have a 2007 Ford Ranger Sport with 85000 miles. Just yesterday, it started sputtering while idling, as if I was out of gas, but I'm not. The cabin shakes a bit sporadically with the sputtering sounds. It seemed to go away somewhat when I'm driving, but I could just be confusing it with the bumps in the road. Then, when I'm accelerating, there are occasional pulses in the acceleration. Today, the blinking engine light came on briefly just before I got back home.
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I was told by the dealer it would be over 150 to scan and do a fuel trim on my 02 Explorer, XLT, 4.0, Auto. I can't afford the scan or a garage. I paid 4200 for it and a short time later it starts surging at stop lights then it starts sputtering when idling and taking a while to start. Next it stops accelerating past 2.5k, then works well a bit then stops accelerating past 50 miles an hour. Then it works with an 02 disconnected then starts acting up again. It now either runs normal, wont accelorate past certain ranges, or starts then quits 3 seconds later, unless I unplug the MAF then it runs 15 seconds then stalls. Through all this symptoms come and go. Always banks 1 and 2 lean.
Symptoms
Knock
Rough Idle
Slow Starts
Hesitation
Lag
Stall
Replaced
02 Sensors
Fuel Filter
Injectors
Plugs
Plug Wires
Tested
Maf
TP
Temp Sensor
Cam Sensor
Crank Sensor
All EGR Components
Idle Valve
Coil Pack
For any air leaks.
Fuel pressure 37 or higher
Clean Fuel Pump Strainer
Flow tested pump
Checked air filter
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I have recently come across a strange problem. Only occurs after car has been turned off and sitting for 1-2 hours. Weather not affecting and sitting overnight, car starts normal and nice.
After the 1-2 hours of sitting, engine will turn over not the 2 or 3 usual times for ignition, but needing 10-12 times to finally start. Then it starts very poorly by making a sputtering sound and only idling at 200-500 rpms, instead of the usual instant 1000 rpms. This is very annoying and a few times the engine has turned over 10-12 times and didn't start at all. When a person starts the car up every 1 to 2 hours, say on a busy errand weekend, it pretty much occurs each time. When my wife uses the car just in the morning for work and at the end of the work day, it is not noticed for some reason....
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ok,up to yesterday, my wife's car started and ran fine. but we had not driven it in about 3weeks, and it was on empty. well, my kids would listen to the radio and, i think, starting it while we were at work. anyway, they ran it out of gas. so put gas in it, 3gallons, turned the key on and off a couple of times to get a good prime. started it up, died, i figured not enough fuel, yet tried again. started, but started spitting and sputtering and idling really ruff, had to hold to the floor to keep it running. removed the maf. it started and did the same. finally, i held down the gas and brake at the same time, took off to the store, got gas, but it died half way there. got it to the pump, put more gas thinking that's the problem. nope, the same. got it home, but when i let off the gas, it idles like it's not getting fuel and dies. so, any clue what it is? remember, 3 weeks ago it ran fine.
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When I'm driving it starts to cutout (but it never dies) and it won't stop cutting out until I floor it and then it's fine for a little bit and it starts doing it again.
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I have a 2000 Ford Ranger, small v-6, automatic, no AC, windows, door locks, this has a heater and radio. This truck runs fine until I try to climb up the mountains (Colorado) and at app. fifty mph the engine starts sputtering and losing power. More than just an engine ping. When I run on flat ground while pulling a fifteen hundred pound load it runs fine with no sputtering or loss of power. Mechanics here are stumped.
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Background - I just got done changing a few things... Exhaust Manifold/gasket, battery cables, valve cover gasket, oil cooler gasket and hoses, power steering pump and hoses, and ball joints. Most of this has nothing to do with the issue that came up as I am driving it back to return it to her.
While out on the freeway, I initially notice subtle power losses and surges. These quickly escalate into almost total power loss with back firing, sputtering and much more noticeable surges in power. The check engine light was turning off then on a few times before pretty much deciding to stay on.
So I nurse it back home on back roads due to its inability to maintain freeway speeds. I proceed to check everything I touched paying special attention to the exhaust manifold and surrounding area. The new manifold came from the j/y and was barely used so I had initially just stuck with the O2 sensor that came with it; I changed this to the one the vehicle had previously been employing as it was not exhibiting these symptoms until after the job was done. I also double checked all the hoses, intake tube, wires and connectors; everything is connected.
From here, I research the method of pulling codes on OBD-1 vehicles by making the check engine light flash. It flashed a 111 and a 172 at the same time; the information I could find said the 111 means everything is normal, and the 172 suggested O2 or MAF. I am reasonably sure the O2 is not the problem so I focused on the MAF. Disconnecting it while running seemed to improve the way it idled so via the process of deduction, which also included the consideration of typical symptoms of MAF sensor failure, I proceeded to replacing the MAF sensor which amounted to little improvement.
At this moment in time the check engine light has not returned but it is clearly not in a drive-able state of being. It actually seems to have ever so slightly improved though.
Additionally, the symptoms only exist when the engine is hot and has been driven; it drives normally for 5-10 minutes until it gets to operating temperature then it starts to crap out. After changing the MAF sensor, I let it idle for 20 minutes and it was fine until about 2 minutes into the test drive.
Speculation - I am thinking spark plugs could also be a culprit as its has been forever since a tune-up but the sudden onset of this condition make me doubt this a little; it also has 8 plugs so even if one or two crapped out it should still run better than this I would think.
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'86 Ranger, 2.3L, Automatic transmission.
Been having a sputtering/rough running situation once warmed up, replaced every so often with open loop smooth running. Lately, have had several occasions where the truck stalls and will not restart after a hard right turn (fuel pump powers up, tho) After 30 or so minutes of repose, truck will restart and run.
Recent History:
During the last 1-1/2 years, had cylinder head rebuilt and reinstalled. Had to run it all winter w/o EGR tube attached because of bad fitting at exhaust manifold. Replaced the fitting last spring and replaced cat back exhaust system. Had manifold hole plugged with pipe plug all winter. Have had a diagnosis of poor compression in the past, have not rechecked compression since head rebuild, but did have a noticable increase in power.
Have checked base ignition timing and it is correct. Valve timing appears to be as it should be. Have not had the opportunity to check for spark during one of the breakdowns, since I had no tools and it was night time.
The codes:
Early in Fall, got 14, 21, 24, 34. The 14 particularly interested me, as it suggests ignition problems.
Just before pulling the distributor, I checked codes again; 14 had disappeared as did 34 (EGR issues I resolved above) but I still got 21 (coolant temp out of range) and 41 (no HEGO switch) So I left the distributor alone and replace the HEGO sensor and cleared codes.
Last code check, just got 21(coolant temp sensor voltage out of range) and 24(air charge or Vane air temp voltage out of range) There is very little heat on cold days, full radiator and I've "burped" the cylinder head on an incline more than once chasing trapped air.
I'm suspicious of the TIF module, since the stalling is after warm up and self corrects. It was replaced once perhaps 12 years ago.
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My 2000 Ranger standard 4.0 4x4, started spitting and sputtering the other morning just when i was gone up hills then it would quit doing it. The other evening it got to where it don't idle, missing very bad, and wouldn't even pull itself up a slight grade, and the wife said there was flames and sparks coming out the exhaust. Now it wont even try to start, it just turns over. I put a different coil pack, wires, and plugs, and still nothing. I pulled the gas line off the frame fuel filter and its shooting gas out, and I got gas to the check port on top of the engine.
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My 2003 2.3L used to run bad... it had a lot of lag to it when i would try to accelerate. The check engine light was on so i got it checked, and the reading said o2 sensor high voltage or something like that... anyways, i purchased a new sensor (i researched, and found there is only an upstream o2 sensor), replaced it, and the truck ran WAY better, no more lag during acceleration, it was crisp. As i was driving home one day, i was accelerating up a hill, and at about 4000 RPM, the truck almost dies and starts sputtering.
The check engine light started flashing, so i new it was serious, but luckily i was able to make it back to my house. When i got home, i looked under the hood and noticed that #2 & #3 spark plug caps had popped off the spark plugs. What I don't understand is what would have caused that to happen in the first place.... Is it a clogged Catalytic convertor, or is the o2 sensor bad.... Ive read different opinions and technical diagnostic possibilities, but man, i don't want to throw a bunch of money at a truck that I'm really going to have for a few more months. but I need to get it fixed in the mean time.
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I have a 94 ranger and all of a sudden it started sputtering, i can hear a vacuum leak behind the intake manifold found what appears to be a pcv valve not hooked up is that the way it's supposed to be?
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2007 Explorer Sport Trac was misfiring when first started and then would settle down. Now it is misfiring and when I try to drive it, it does quiet a bit of sputtering and has no power. Took it to mechanic he said it would be hard to tell if it was fuel injectors or what.
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i have an 07 ford f 150 5,4 liter. at speeds between 45 and 55 it has like a sputtering and jerking loss of power. I had a computer hooked up to it and it said fuel pump replaced it but it is still doing it, what this might be.
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I have a 2005 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6 2wd Edge, with around 175,000 miles. It runs great, however the RPM's are slow to return and it seems to idle a little high for longer than you would expect when starting the engine. For example, exiting off the freeway with the clutch depressed, the RPM's will drop from approximately 2300, pause at 1800 for a second, then drop and pause at 1100 for a few seconds before returning to idle. If stationary and rev the engine, they seem to drop back normally.
So far I have changed the IAC valve and checked for vacuum leaks (not sure how exhaustive a check it was but sprayed every joint I could find). My mechanic agrees that it is abnormal, but has suggested that we wait for it to worsen enough to throw a code rather than spend a lot of time and money replacing things that may not be a problem. Also the throttle cable appears to be functioning normally and not sticking.
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I own a 1999 Ford Ranger. About two weeks ago, the engine started acting up. While the truck is idling, the RPM will drop down very low (like .5) and begin to sputter, then shoots up to about 2-2.5 RPM, then back down to .5. Sometimes it will drop so low that I have to give it a little gas to keep it from going dead (which it has a few times).
The motor has around 150k miles I would say (engine was replaced a few years ago, so the odometer shows higher than the engine). My water pump is also going bad, but I am having that replaced this weekend.
Here is a link to a video I did so y'all can hear/see what's going on [URL] .....
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My 88 2.9 ranger keeps heating up badly while idling. Was waiting in the drive-thru at Wendy's and it was taking them longer than usual, the temp guage started climbing closer and closer to 'H'.. I revved it up a bit to a fast idle (1500-2000rpm) and it did not work much... figured the gauge was being screwy. But when i finally got my food and started moving the truck was pinging..it really was hot..
But as soon as I got her moving at a steady 40mph, engine cooled back down to normal temp as if nothing ever happened..i put an extra wide two row aluminum radiator from a 4.0 explorer in it, fan clutch is not very old, no coolant leaks that i can see.. can't figure out why it heats up so much so fast at idle. Not enough air or coolant flow?
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so I have a 1987 2.9L Ranger that likes to stall out when its idling after reaching temperature. Ive replaced all sorts of sensors (IAC, Coolant Temp, and PCV) and so far no luck. I was trying to figure out what the relearn procedure was for the IAC or get an input on any other possible sources of error. I haven't changed TPS yet.
What the engine does is when it gets up to temp, the engine will start to loose speed, and will start to shutter. Then it'll kick back up run fine for a few seconds and drop again, it'll do this for a few minutes then completely just choke out.
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I have a 2001 Ford Ranger with stalling problems. Recently I have narrowed the range of possibilities to a fuel delivery problem. The truck has 85,000 miles on it and I had the fuel pump replaced about 10,000 miles ago, the fuel filter was replaced at the same time. The stalling usually happens after it has run for a while and can happen while idling or driving at any speed. . .whenever it lacks fuel. It will restart and run ok for a while after if you leave it alone for a half hour or more. Over the last few months it has happened with greater frequency to the point where I am currently not driving it. I can get it to stall in my driveway by letting it run for ten min. or so. I am getting two computer codes: PO 402 and PO 453.
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I have a 95 4.0 EFI inside of my 83 Ranger. Once the motor warms up, it starts to have an idle issue. I have to press the gas, in order for it not to cut off. Here is a video I posted a while back. A person suggested that it could be the MAF needed to be cleaned. I did that, and it did not work.
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My '04 Ranger has over 240k on the odometer. Runs great and has never given me any issues. Everything checks out OK - all the fluids, filters, and whatnot are in good shape. No CEL or any other indication that anything is wrong (except for maybe the IAC valve and clutch slave.)
I've noticed, though, that when I fire it up in the mornings to let it warm up while I scrape the ice and snow off the windows, the heat/defrost will not blow warm air. It doesn't matter how long I let it sit, it will only blow ambient air through the ducts.
When I get going down the road, however, the heat kicks in, after a bit, and works very well!
I've not found anything that would indicate an issue with the blend door or any other component and this is the first vehicle I've had that did this.
Is it normal for a 4.0 SOHC Ranger to do this? Or is there something I'm missing?... It's not really that big of a deal, but I do find it a bit odd that it would do this.
I mentioned the IAC above - I think it's "sticking" every once in a while and, when it does, I'll hear a loud "thump" right before it idles down to around 1k rpm. I can't see how this would affect the heat, though...
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Ok, I replaced the head gaskets on this truck a couple years back and now I am having symptoms similar to the ones I was having then. I am not entirely convinced that this is what is wrong however.
Symptoms:
Truck was idling rough until it warmed up
Truck takes forever to warm up or simply does not warm up
If/when it warms up it operates at higher than normal temp/almost overheats(it hasn't overheated yet)
Heater blows very cold air
White smoke(has been cold outside so not sure if due to temp or coolant)
Overflow bubbled when I shut the truck off, but it has only happened once so far
I am kind of at a loss, but like I said am suspicious of the head gaskets.
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