I recently replaced the powered side-view mirror on my 2001 Ford Ranger. It adjusts in all directions, but it stops ("bumps") before it adjusts inward as far as we need it to go. Is there any way to adjust the neutral position of the mirror?
View 4 RepliesThe right side mirror on my 97 f150 kind of sticks a little when I adjust it. Are there some gears or something that I could use a dry lubricant on, before I replace it?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Jetta GLX VR6, automatic, that I have been going over for my son. The passenger side mirror doesn't adjust when I shift into reverse. I moved up,(towards the top of the housing) a little. Shifted to park and then back to reverse and it moved up again and doesn't return. I have changed the mirror switch, the mirror motors, and have dis-connected all the electrical plugs on the transmission. I figured the plugs needed to be plugged and re-plugged to clean the terminals, but no luck. Is there a switch or sensor that needs to be replaced on the transmission? All the fuses are good. What needs to be done?
View 5 Replies2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
View 1 RepliesProblems with the passenger side automatic mirror sticking in the down position (position it assumes when Touareg transmission is put into reverse). I have had my Touareg for about 1 week and the mirror does not return to the regular position when I place the transmission in drive.
View 5 RepliesYeah it was stuck in the "up" position, just running forever. Turn the car off and just keep running. So I took it apart and un-plugged it.
I plan on swapping it for the drivers and see if it follows the mirror motor. Yeah, I been getting dead battery and this is why.
This is in reply to a question I just heard on the radio show from Stash (sp?) I believe. He has a jetta and the there is a fast clicking coming from the turn signal after it is used and returns to the "neutral" position. I have a GTI of similar vintage and replacing the blinker did not work. What does work is even cheaper! Get some CRC electronics cleaner from the local auto store and spray out inside of the turn signal switch. What happens is, over the years the lube inside of the switch wears away, allowing the contacts to wear against each other, creating little metal debris that ends up completing the circuit. The CRC cleaner dissolves all of the gunk and gives the necessary clearance inside the switch to allow it to function properly.
View 1 RepliesWhen I have the mirror tilt feature active for both mirrors(left switch position) the driver side mirror does not return to the preset position. The passenger side works fine but I have to manually reposition the driver side so I know it is not in the mechanism, it seems it is not sensing the transmission in drive but only on the driver side. How hard is it to replace the faulty sensor or whatever the failed part?
View 4 RepliesIn my 98 Ford Ranger, 4 cyl. manual, was driving up a 6% grade on the freeway, about 60mph for about ten minutes when i reached the top and began on a downhill grade. i let off the gas and put it in neutral to coast and then i looked down and it had stalled in neutral. i put it in gear to jump start it, it wouldn't fire back up. so i pulled to the shoulder. it wouldn't key start either. towed to mechanic, code read cam sensor. he also did a comp test and # 2 and 3 cyl were lacking comp. so the mechanic thinks the lack of comp is more serious than just the cam sensor, he thinks it might be the head. so my question is, can the cam sensor get far enough out of time so there would be no comp?
View 19 RepliesI have a 1996 Ford Ranger which was manufactured in 08/95. The key will crank the trunk fine, but it when put into the off position nothing happens. It continues to run as normal. You can even take the key out, but the truck runs like normal. Could this be bad ignition switch? The key seems to be doing its job because I can see the plastic pin(? I am not sure what its called) move back and forth down steering column when the key is turned.
View 7 RepliesIs it possible to replace just the glass on the outside mirrors on a 2003 Ranger?
If so, how is it done?
Replacing their door mirror with an aftermarket door mirror and not been happy with it?
I have a non-powered door mirror. if I understand my FoMoCo Workshop Manual correctly, I should be able to replace the exterior mirror glass without the need for a completely new mirror assembly.
"95, 2.3L, automatic. Stalls for a couple of seconds and nearly dies when shifting from drive to neutral or from drive to park. Doesn't do it when cold at high idle or when AC is on. It catches back up and idles fine but nearly dies when coming out of drive. Installed a new idle air control valve but no change.
View 1 RepliesI went to start my 97 ranger this morning and when I turned the key I got the standard indicator lights. Then when I tried to start it there was nothing no click no crank just quiet. When I turn the key back the dash indicator lights stayed on even after the key was in the off position and removed from the switch. I tried it a few more times and the same thing happened. I had to disconnect the battery so the indicator lights, radio, etc. would not drain the battery.What do I need to repair this.
View 16 RepliesMy '96 ranger with a 4.0 auto will be running fine and then dies. When you go to start, the engine will will crank over. Also notice that there are no lights coming on the dash when the key is in the run position. A few hours latter the truck started right up. Not reading any codes. Transmission was rebuilt a few weeks before this problem.
View 6 RepliesMy ignition key is stuck / locked in the off position. The first time this happened I jiggled the key while moving the wheel back and forth and it turned. The next time in the truck nothing worked. I let it roll back a bit then tried, pushed the clutch in and put it in neutral, etc it did not move. (Just had the clutch and clutch hydraulics replaced.) The wheel is locked. The key removes from the cylinder.
I know it is easy to replace the Ignition Lock Cylinder when you can turn the key in the run position. How to remove it when locked in off?
My check engine light came on about a week ago and was unsure what the problem was. So I tested the codes and it said that the camshaft position sensor was bad. So I have tried finding this sensor but little to no luck. I was unsure if it was the 2 or 3 pin, but after looking at some pictures of the engine I'm thinking it is a 2 pin. I attached two pictures of what I think might be the sensor? But I am unsure. This was right next to the timing belt cover, which is where it said it was located. I have a 1996 Ford Ranger, 2.3L.
View 6 RepliesMy low miles (under 50k) 1999 Ranger has a 5-speed manual transmission. One morning, I could not move it. The shift lever shifted, but the gears were locked. No forward, no reverse, and it wouldn't roll in neutral. Eventually, I popped the clutch, and, with a loud BANG! restored itself.
Background: I had rolled the car up tot the curbing in my driveway, so the wheels touched, then shut it off (in gear) and finally set the emergency brake. I'm guessing that this caught the gears in a way that caused the problem.
Yes, it's running just fine now. What happened?
Rebuild on the Mazda 5 speed transmission. My 1986 Ranger 2.3 Four cylinder has 280,000 miles and the clutch has never been replaced. It's not slipping but I'm having trouble getting it into gear from neutral. Was told that the release springs on the clutch plate have weakened causing the clutch to not release completely so figured it's time to replace it. It's done well the last 280,000 miles. The question I have : overhauling on one of these Mazda trans and how difficult was it. Any special tools required, etc...I see Autozone has a rebuild kit which appears to have bearings, seals and gaskets. Figured while it was out I would go ahead and rebuild it myself if I can. Rebuilt a few engines but never touched a trans.
View 4 RepliesTook my 96 B2300 2WD SE (190k) to lunch. When I went to start it back up afterwards, the key turned but no starter engaged. All the dash lights came on, and now stay on. With the key in, I can turn the ignition freely...no clicking to different positions.
It springs a little when I turn it all the way, but still no starter. When I remove the key, the dash lights stay on, etc. So, since it was on, we were able to push-start it. I've parked it on a hill for now, and will disconnect the battery when I get it home.
The Problem: When I start my Ranger it dies right away, I do this about 10 times or so (worse when it is wet or has rained) then I can finally keep it running, by hitting the gas. Once I get it running it will cut out while driving as well. The idle is normal and if fires properly, I just took it in to the shop (non-dealer) and they said it fires normal and has normal fuel pressure, and the their computer returned no error codes. Their sugestion was replace the throttle position sensor. Do you all think this part could be the cause and where is the this sensor and is it hard to replace?
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