I have a 1998 Ford Ranger. My problem is jerky application of acceleration. I note slack in the cable connecting the pedal to the engine throttle. Is there any way to adjust this cable length to remove the slack.
View 5 RepliesBrakes are too agressive on the Passat 3.6L 4Motion? Seems like the initial application, especially at slower speeds is too jerky. You have to be very soft on the pedal so as to not get your passengers hit the dash...
While you do want brakes that grab, I think that the modulation needed is beyond most drivers talent in order to execute a smooth stop without jerking.
I track my other car, so I'm familiar with brake modulation and race pads but again for a normal driver, this does not seem normal. The Audi A6 Bi-turbo is much smoother.
When stopped and accelerating normally I hear an audible clunk, but feel nothing. If I gently accelerate from stop it does not occur. 1998 ford ranger 4x4 ....
View 1 RepliesThe vehicle in question is a 1998 Ford Ranger XLT with the 3.0L 6cyl engine and an automatic transmission.I've done quite a number of repairs already and am now trying to isolate what might be causing this particular noise.
The noise itself sounds a little bit like a rotational metal on metal sound with a dash of two washers being vibrated together. It takes no effort at all to reproduce; put the car into drive and step on the gas. The truck will happily move forward, making that drivetrain sound.
Here's the thing..
1) If you're in park and step on the gas, there's no sound.
2) If you're in neutral and step on the gas, there's no sound.
3) If you let off the gas and coast, the sound goes away immediately. Step on the gas again, and it comes right back.
To me, this seems to indicate a motor and transmission mount problem. If the engine is idling, then it isn't spinning the drive axle or rear diff.Upon acceleration, the driveline might be torquing strangely and this in turn would cause the differential yoke to spin at an odd angle causing the noise. It'd also explain why all the noise ceases when I let up on the gas; there's no more load on the drivetrain.
I don't believe it's the axle or pinion or even wheel bearings, since the car is -quite- quiet once you let up on the gas pedal...
Symptoms: (162K miles, last tune up about 70K miles ago) rough idle, and poor acceleration. Occasionally, the car really jerks while accelerating. I read about new plugs/wires, and something called seafoam. I think the highway patrol would pull me over as a gross polluter, but that too seems worth a try. Various sensors and hoses, I'm frankly overwhelmed. Where to start?
Something I learned today: My car was made in 10/95. Apparently, I can scan for trouble codes?!? How and where? Is it OBD I or II or something else? Dumb question: I can't even get the interior engine shroud off. I found three clamps, but it still hangs up near the top. What am I missing?
I have a 1999 F250 SD V10 4x4. I recently had a transmission installed and the truck is running erratic. I have an engine miss (sometimes when idling, more so when in drive and foot on the brake). I say sometimes because there are times it will not miss and the engine runs smooth. The transmission shifts a little strange and sometimes hard.
I am getting a code reading that says my TPS is faulty, but I installed a new one a few months back.
The engine is running rough (jerky on acceleration) especially when driving. I was wondering if I should take it to a shop and have them flash the computer to reset it?
I also remove the AC compressor a while back (bad clutch). I installed an aftermarket pulley.
Sometimes, when I get on the gas rather hard, my acceleration is sort of stuttery and jerky. It's not a traction issue, and I just got Unitronic stage 1...but I was having this issue before that.
View 1 RepliesIt's been over 100*F recently, and we just started running our AC on BLAST (Auto, 74*), and my perfect Prius has been giving me acceleration issues... When it's in PWR mode (100% of the time) and the AC is full blast, and I punch it, the car hesitates, jerks forwards, hesitates, jerks again, then eventually once it's over 15-20 mph it smooths out and goes.
Just to add to the chaos, for the first time ever in my life, I actually HEARD the fan from the vent for the battery. It was pushing air out after I parked the car. Never heard that before, ever! I just want my Prius to be as perfect as it's always been... BTW, I pretty much drive the heck outta that thing. I like how it goes around corners and the acceleration in PWR mode.
2010 Prius, 75,000 miles ....
I notice that under normal acceleration, my cars transmission shifts very jerky. I understand this can happen if your driving stick but I have a TIP. Is there anyway smooth or eliminate the jerks?
View 2 RepliesAfter a road trip (approximately) 80km both ways, I came back to my home area and filled up and got a car wash. Then I went home. About 2 hours after I noticed the car felt very jerky, and had no acceleration. Then big time sputtering. I turned off the car and waited for it to cool down. Once cool, it just kept on cranking. It started at one point and the engine light came on. And now it only cranks.
View 3 RepliesI get jerky acceleration at low RPM (around 1200). It feels as the engine cuts off fuel for a blink of an eye and it does that 1-3 times. It doesn't happen when the engine is cold. It starts after cold engine warning light turns off.
Year 2000 .... Engine 1.3 vvti .... Automatic transmission .... 140k kms ....
Have an 04 Jetta GLS 1.8t manual. While accelerating at lower rpm and I'm kind of on the gas to get up and go it starts bogging out. Could almost describe it as a little jerky. Anything over 3000 rpm there's no issue. Doesn't matter what gear I'm in either.
View 15 RepliesBeen having an issue with my 01 Wolfsburg VW Jetta 1.8T.
Whenever I'm accelerating (most noticeable in lower gears), it seems like the turbo can't keep up. Used to sound like a nice clean consistent whooooosh spooling up, but now its more like brrrr......brrrrr......brrrrr.....
Don't know how else to describe it. Seems to start and stop frequently. Will try getting a video clip of this tomorrow.
2010 Dodge Grand Caravan. On the way to work I was trying to accelerate from about 40mph to 50 mph and my van started to jerk a few times and then the check engine light immediately turned on. I only had a few more miles to work and it was fine the rest of the way.
View 1 RepliesMy 2011 Golf R is tuned to Stage 2+ by Revo and has the following hardware modifications:
1. Miltek turbo-back exhaust
2. Larger Intercooler supplied by Revo
3. Autech (spelling??) HPFP
4. Revo intake system with a foam filter
Lately I have experienced the following problems:
1. Difficulty in starting (sometimes)
2. A kind of "flutter" on starting as engine revs settle to the idle level
3. A noticeable hesitation in taking off from stand-still
4. Jerky acceleration immediately after the car moves from stand-still
5. At any speed, a noticeable hesitation when throttle is applied
All the above issues have happened in normal driving. By that I mean NOT hard driving. I drive my car on DSG "manual" shift mode.
Unfortunately customer service from, both, Revo and the VW dealer in Dubai leaves a lot to be desired. What are the different possible causes of the above problems, I can make sure that Revo / VW go through the full list until the cause(s) are identified.
My 2012 Prius Two did something odd today that it's never done before. Today, after leaving a meeting, I had two instances where accelerating from a complete stop was met with a delay followed by a jerky and sudden acceleration. This only happened twice out of the dozen-or-so complete stops I made. This only happened on my first couple of complete stops, then never did it again.
Here is some pertinent information:
- Silver Prius, no tint
- Car sat uncovered for about 2.5 hours
- Was 96 degrees outside, not a cloud for miles
- Turned the car on, opened the front two windows for hot air escape
- Turned the AC on to full
- Sat parked but car running for maybe 30 seconds before reversing out of parking spot
- Rolled up windows
- Battery fan was going strong
- No indicator lights came on to suggest an issue
- Happened on my first two complete stops at stop signs
- Never happened again
- Battery fan eventually simmered down
- Have 55,000 miles on the car
We have a 2002 Sante Fe with v6 and 270,000 km on it. Just had extreme loss of power and jerky acceleration from a stop. This has happened a few times in the past year and each time with a 1/4 tank of fuel? We pulled into a gas station, filled it up and away we go like nothing was wrong?
View 4 RepliesI purchased a 2012 Subaru Forester 2.5X Premium (automatic transmission) in November 2011 with 4 miles on it. Since the get-go it has had issues, but we thought that some of them might work themselves out as we broke the car in (which we were religious about). At the first oil change, we told the dealership about the issues we were experiencing and got the expected "the computer doesn't say anything is wrong" and "we couldn't replicate the problems" excuses. We were told to bring it back if the problems continued. Well, they've gotten worse. Here are what we are experiencing:
- Erratic shifting. I commute from the mountains to the city every day, so I need power from the car. Sometimes, when I'm heading down a hill and I tap the gas slightly to give myself a little boost, the car will suddenly downshift, even though it was sitting at 2500 RPM and didn't need to get any extra power beyond more fuel. Going up the hill is worse, as if you are not actively accelerating (including if you are trying to maintain a constant speed), it will upshift on you and you lose all power, so it will need to downshift to make up for this. It does this constantly for the entire drive home. Everyone who has driven this car in the mountains has experienced this.
- Jerky transmission. When the car shifts, it is super harsh and tends to throw you forward or back. Even when on flat ground it shifts roughly.
- Sluggish acceleration. If I give the car any more gas than I usually do, it hesitates before going anywhere. One day I needed to get over on the highway fast and floored it - it took the car about 2 seconds to respond. Then, yesterday, we were turning on to a highway from a side road and I tried to accelerate (gas about 1/2 way to the floor) and it didn't respond at all for about 5 seconds and the "Check Engine" and the traction control lights started flashing at me. We were on a paved road with no gravel, water, ice, etc and the traction control light began flashing on the straight, not while we were turning. There are also days when it feels like there is an anchor tied to the car and it just doesn't want to give me any umph at all.
- Rough starts. This is the really weird one as there is no rhyme or reason as to when it happens. Some times it takes the car several revolutions to turn over. Oddly, it's never on the really cold (under 20 degrees F) days, but it has happened when it is ~35 degrees and a couple of times when I have started it in the middle of the day to grab lunch and it is ~65 degrees out.
- Running rough. This usually happens after a rough start, but can also happen at other times. It just idles very rough and won't calm down. These are the days I have the worst time with the shifting issues.
I had a 2001 Forester that threw a rod, which forced me to get this car. Everyone who has driven both agrees that the 2001 was quicker, easier to drive, and had more gumption than the 2012. It also had less problems even though I purchased it used in 2005 (until the whole rod-throwing thing, of course). I really want to love my 2012 Forester, but I am so upset that, for the first time in my life I have a new car, and it runs terribly.
My V10 is about 8 months old with 14,000 miles. Have only had a few minor problems up till now - periodic tire pressure gauge malfunctions, and a nav system that resets itself, requiring the 4 digit security code to be input. Recently though, it developed what feels like a computer assisted drivetrain problem. At 30-50 MPW with light application of power, the car "shudders" - it feels like riding over rough pavement. If I give it full throttle, it will kick down, accelerate to about 80 MPH @ 3500RPM, rumble like hell, and won't go any faster. If a let off the pedeal, it smooths out again. This has happened a couple of times, then mysteriously cures itself. It is going into the shop next week, but I don't have my hopes up that this intermittent problem will be acting up in front of the doctor.
View 24 Replies98 Ford Escort SE
Been having acceleration issues with the Escort for a while now. The repairs I've made on the vehicle so far are; new fuel pump, coil pack and mass air flow sensor cleaning. Those are in order.
Now onto the issue. From a dead stop and sometimes while driving my vehicle will give acceleration issues though mostly from a dead stop. Checked the tranny fluid and it was a light brown with bubbles(?) so thought I'd do a fluid change but with the work required wanted some input before ripping into it.
The last few days, my neck of the woods has seen the first taste of winter. Had to make a 4 hour highway trip today, of which the last 2 hours involved driving over ice-packed and slushy roads, mixed with salt and sand. Needless to say, the body and undercarriage are a real mess.
When I made it to my destination, I noticed a clunking from the rear brakes with every pedal application. As my thread title indicates, the car has only 6,000 km. Also, I am very gentle on brakes. I'm not the type of driver who speeds up to a traffic light or stop sign, then slams on the brakes.
I'm thinking (hoping) the cause of the clunking is some wintery road crap has found it's way into the brakes. I guess I'll find out after a trip to the car wash.