97 RANGER EXTCAB 4 CYL 5 SPD---I have the PU, 2 cars, & a motorcycle. Only the pu has antilock brakes. #1 I don't like them. #2 I can't remember which one I am driving in an emergency, so I either lock the brakes or don't push hard enough, either way at times, I don't stop as well as I could. So, is there a way to "turn off" the antilock system so all vehicles (and stop) the same?
View 2 RepliesIt's a farm truck, lumber getter trailer puller. Not driven often, after sitting for awhile the brakes seem to be pulsing in front like antilock, as if braking on ice. I checked both front caliper springs or plunger slides and they are free not froze up.
View 1 RepliesIn the winter, driving around downtown in Minneapolis can be very... interesting, to say the least. The usual 5 minute trip from the highway exit ramp to the parking garage can take an hour. But hey, it's a job. There's enough stop and go that I can't just put it in park, so I'm riding the brake for most of this hour.
It only happens a couple times a year, but every time we get weather, after about 45 minutes of this, my abs warning light comes on and my abs system stops working. (Finding that out was... unpleasant.)
I pull into the garage, leave my car for the shift, and it's fine on the drive home. Is this normal? What's happening?
My ABS light resets itself when I leave the truck, but when I go down the road later, after a few miles it lights up until I turn the engine off again. It's a 2008 Lariat Super Crew 60 K miles. I've searched and seen only a few posts related to the ABS. One item I've seen mentioned is a sensor on the rear differential. What other parts are in the ABS system that may cause a light to come on. How to troubleshoot the system would be great, too.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 GMC Yukon XL 4WD 1500 with 95,000 miles. When I make left turns, after coming to a stop, the antilock brake system engages, making a groaning-pumping sort of sound in the upper front left area under the hood. (This does not happen every time I turn after stops, but frequently.) My local GMC dealer mechanic believes that there is a faulty wheel bearing, and that a signal is being sent to the antilock brake system to engage. Not sure whether I should believe that or not. The repair would be expensive.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
Im wanting to delete my abs brake system in my f150 2002 2wd all disc brakes.
I have to change the module with some kinda valve? and turn off the Abs in a tune?
I know the basics of a brake system, but im lost in the abs stuff.
I have a 97 F250 that is having reoccurring brake issues, It has an intermittent hard pedal with little to no brakes when it occurs. It will stop but you are standing on the pedal with both feet. I have replaced the booster, master cylinder, and the vacuum pump in the past trying to isolate the issue and still had the problem. On this year model the abs ids only on the rear correct???? if it is shouldn't it only be affecting the rear brakes? Since this truck has a dual reservoir MC the front should still work?
View 4 RepliesDrove a few miles and both front brakes got hot. The driving was mild failry flat road under 30 mph and the steel rims were hot to the touch around the lugs on both sides pretty evenly.
The van is new to me and I've driven maybe 20 miles so far. The pads are about new, the rotors look fine. Already I've changed all the COPS and plugs, changed the trans oil and filter and installed a drain plug, chaned the engine oil and filter, changed the air filter, and rear drums are on order. So it would be nice to be done soon!
My 87 F-150 rear antilock light was coming on and off every now and again, but now it is on all the time... What it could be.
View 4 RepliesLast week my ABS warning light came on. I took it to a mechanic (who I trust but is not a Prius-specific mechanic) who said warnings are coming up for the anti-lock accumulator and hydro boost motor. However, in July 2011 I had these both replaced. The work was done by a Toyota dealership. I ended up taking my car back 4 times after this work was completed as it kept having braking issues. They replaced the shim kit and bled the brakes. And eventually they replaced the master cylinder (this they did under warranty bc there was no way I was paying them any more money). At no point did they seem to understand what they were doing. (Along the way they broke my windshield and killed my battery.)
Finally by November 2011 my car was driving normal again. And then the warning light and high-pitched alarm went off again last week. I talked to Toyota Corporate who suggested I call the dealer to do the work since technically the accumulator and motor just ran out of their one year warranty. But this is the same dealer that didn't seem to know what they were doing last year.
When I am at idle, the compressor keeps turning on and off every few seconds. It seems to work fine while driving. What do I need to do to fix this?
View 14 RepliesI didn't really know where else to turn (no pun intended) every time I turn my wheel to the right the truck sputters out and dies, i checked the ignition switch, tightened her up and shes still killing the engine when i turn right. All other power remains on stereo, car charger etc. its not so bad on continuous turns i can just pop the clutch but for stopping and turning its a huge issue. Why turning left is fine but right kills the engine..wondering if maybe the prongs on the ignition switch may be bad?
View 7 RepliesJust did the rear brakes on my 05 EX. New rotors and pads. Now there is a squeal when going around a left turn. It is a constant squeal when going around a left turn, not a squeak-squeak-squeak. Sounds like it is coming from the left rear. Took it back apart to make sure I didnt miss anything and everything looks fine.
View 1 RepliesJust replaced the tires and wheels on my 2005 EB Explorer. Purchased a set of Better aluminum wheels and tires on Craigslist. Problem is old ones had TPMS and new ones don't. I will put the sensors on the new wheels when the tires wear out, but don't feel like the expense until I need new tires. Is there an easy way to turn the system off so I don't get the message every time I start the vehicle?
View 8 RepliesI took my 2009 F150 XLT 4.6 into the dealership to have front and rear brakes replaced at 77,000 miles. Brakes were down to 3mm. They also did a complete brake flush. They called after the brake job was done and said the ABS system failed and needed to replace ABS module. Given I didn't have any problems with ABS before bringing it into the dealership, what is the chance the brake repair screwed up something with the ABS that they caused?
View 5 RepliesWhy do the rpm's run high on 2500 for 1-2 miles before shifting in 4th on my 2000 Ford Ranger XLT and sometimes inbetween the lower gears also. Other times, it runs ok. Why, also does the OD Light ( reading 'off' ) send the rpm's up to 2500?
View 1 RepliesThe blinker in my 98 Mazda B4000 does not deactivate when turning right/left. The multi-function switch was replaced last year with an OEM part.
View 2 RepliesHow to keep the freaking dome light from automatically turning itself off?? I understand it's a battery life saving function but I find it ANNOYING and would like to stop it.
View 6 RepliesIt started with the cruise control turning off every once in a while. Then it would only stay on for 7-8 seconds, then eventually it would turn on, then shut right off. Now it won't even turn on.
When I did the diagnosis sequence (On, Resume, Coast, Set....) it blinked 3 times saying "Bad deactivation switch or circuit". So I replaced the blue switch on the brake pedal and it still doesn't engage.
It's a 4.0 liter with a manual tranny. I've been researching this a lot, and it seems in 2007 they changed up things probably because of the big recall.
I don't see any kind of deactivation switch around the master cylinder. It seems that was in use until 2006 or 2005.
I see a different kind of switch on the clutch pedal, thinking it must also have a deactivation switch. I see a long spring loaded type of switch with about 5-6 wires coming out of it, but I can't find any info on the web about that switch.
All three of my brake lights are working. It seemed to deteriorate rather quickly (Over the course of 3 days) and now it's completely dead.
I have a 1991 F250 Lariat, 4x4, 460 engine, auto trans. I am having trouble with my steering. The power stering turns good to the left but when I turn to the right it is like there is no power and is very tough to turn.
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