Ford - Ranger :: 1996 - Steering Jumps / Kicks At Low Speeds
Sep 27, 2011
I just bought this Ranger a really bad steering issue. When at low speeds, when I go to turn the steering "jumps/kicks." Then after I straighten out at the end of the turn it jumps in the direction that the steering wheel is being turned. This goes away at higher speeds (40+mph).
I was told by the seller that it needs a new steering pump, but my mechanic said that it was operating well. He noticed that the bearings were loose on the driver side and tightened them up. The problem went away. I just finished driving it for about 20 miles and the problem is back.
What do you think? Is there a way to easily shut off the p-steering to see if that is the problem? Is this a good idea?
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I was driving around town and I kept noticing my aftermarket radio would shut down and turn back on when I put my foot to the floor, then I noticed that my voltage gauge would shoot to the H when I hit around 3000 rpm and all the dash light's and head lights get brighter but once I let off the throttle it goes right back down. I've been taking it easy lately and now around 4000 rpm it will shoot up now. But I just replaced the voltage regulator I checked the battery and cables they don't seem to be damaged and I already replaced the belt. What could cause this?
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I have a 96 ranger with the l4. Right before I bought my newish truck last December, it's started miss firing and running really bad. I replaced the spark plug wires, most of the spark plugs, and both coil packs. Didn't work at all. Then I bought my new truck and parked. Fast forward to now. Fired it up, ran REALLY bad. We changed the wiring order from the 96 order to the 99 order.
But the truck idles from 500rpm (barely running) and randomly jumps up to 2-3000rpm and then back down. Driving it has NO power, rev it and it stays at 2-3000 for quite awhile. Sometimes it randomly dies. REALLY need to get it running quick and cheap. Getting ready to sell my daily driver to find something else and I need something to drive while I hunt for another truck.
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Ok its a 96 explorer 4x4 and I just picked it up so I am learning all the things wrong as I go here. First off every now and then when the truck was almost to a stop the abs motor would kick in and make the abs noise. I checked the brakes and decided to change all 4 rotors and both sets of pads. I just push the fluid back up when I change pads instead of making a mess with bleeding and I am still getting the abs noise once in awhile. So could this be something wrong with the abs or should I sit there and bleed all 4? There is no lights on in the dash.
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I'm in the middle of replacing my pump. With the new pump are a plastic washer and a small rubber o-ring but no instruction where they are supposed to go. They didn't know at auto zone and I haven't heard them mentioned on any youtube video. I found a crushed torn up washer similar to the plastic one in my catch pan. Maybe it is supposed to go in around the high pressure hose connection.
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Can't seem to figure out what is making this clicking noise. It comes from under the dash, drivers side, under the steering column... Now as for when this happens, anytime! Truck on, idling, driving, truck off, key turned to acc or key to on. Also happens even when key is not in ignition?! What this could be? Brand new battery and connecting rings/wires.
Additional info: 1996, 2.3L about 150k miles on her and she's still going strong
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90 Ranger with 5 speed manual, Every thing works as it should untill you put it into 5th, lift the clutch pedel and you fine, the tac responds and I asume your now in gear, but press on the gas pedel to give it a load. whhhhhiiiinnnkkk and the gear selector kicks back to netrual.Also I did remove an inspection panel from bottom center of the tranz and could see no sighns or damage, rounded or broken teeth.It's been sugested that it's just time to re do the clutch, if so why do all the other gear selections work without any problems?
2.9 v6 w/95k and I don't know the history.
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I am yet another sufferer of the 40mph vibration syndrome I commonly read about on this site. I have had my 2006 f350 club cab sd to the dealership about 7 times for this, and now am being told it is a normal characteristic of this truck. They have replaced wheels, tires, vibration machine analyzed, put on a vibration damper, etc., but nothing fixes the problem. It has done it since the day I drove it home.
How many of you out there are upset about their super duty that jumps up and down at certain speeds? Lately, my dealership has had my truck more than me. From the amount of posts I see about this problem, I am certainly not alone. Ford is now trying to brush me under the carpet, yet I have a truck with a built in gyrator that is totally unacceptable. The truck now has about 20,000 miles of bouncy misery on it, and it isn't getting better.
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I recently changed the front pads and rotors on my 2002 Ford Ranger 2wd and I'm having some troubles now. Occasionally when I'm pulling up to stop lights toward the end of my braking i can feel them cut out and the ABS kicks on. It's a very intermittent problem, and it only happens at low speeds. When I try to induce the fault it never happens, it only seems to after an extended period of braking going less than 10 mph. I'm very confused, and I was thinking about changing out my calipers unless know what might be happening.
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My truck jumps or runs roughly... I don't know how to describe it. It's like if someone dumped the clutch. It's a manual, it does it through all gears, so I don't think it's the transmission. I was thinking it might be the fuel pump, but I don't know how to diagnose it. I've got an 83 with the cologne v6. I think it's just got the engine driven fuel pump, no electric, but I'm not sure. Either way, I think it could either be the fuel pump or maybe a vacuum leak.
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When I turn the control to heat the AC compressor kicks in. If turned to vent it does not kick in. Was this just a design flaw.
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2003 vr6
Belt squeal but when I have clutch pushed in no noticeable noise.Abs kicks in at low speed stops. I sprayed the belts with dressing noise went away momentarily actually sounded like it could have killed it almost. Right now I have the and fuse pulled to just get me by.
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2002 Ranger 2.3 duratec ... My Oil Needle jumps around from center to zero. (I am aware this could be/is a dummy light style). There is a Pressure switch attached to oil filter housing, I thought this was oil pressure sender. The pressure switch I was sold is cylinder with single prong connector. Not matching the sensor on oil filter housing. What sensor is on my oil filter housing? Also where is my oil pressure sender?
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In a matter of weeks, my truck destroyed two sets of flywheels and starters. When the ignition key engages, the engine "jumps back?. Apparently, this causes the starter and flywheel teeth to grind. My mechanic cannot determine the cause of the "jump back". He thought that it might be the timing. His examination and testing, however, proved the engine properly timed.
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I have a stunning r32 2004 with an hpa ft450 turbo fitted,(also porsche cayenne discs , calipers , adj suspension , milltek high flow cat , strut brace front and rear, seat splitter, ) all receipts and work carried out bought car like this. On cold it runs good and boost is good , but as soon as its warm (about 4 mins ) in 3rd 4th 5th 6th gear when the boost kicks in I get a biggish vibration through acc pedal and steering wheel, but nothing untoward before boost apart from a slight misfire on idle, the car is running rich and using plenty fuel, the turbo was fitted at 18k and now done 23k, so its very low milage.
I have fitted 3 coil packs, new plugs (old ones were black), I have been told, that the car goes through o2 sensors for fun, just cant understand why, i have no lights coming on , and going for vagcom diagnostic in the morning.
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Here is my issue, none of my fan speeds work except for high. It doesn't matter if it is on heat or a/c. I know on other cars there is a resistor that needs to be replaced and then I've also heard of blower motors going bad. I switched out the switch to see if it was that, and it wasn't. Is there a common problem out there and where is it located?
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After I've driven the van for some 10-20 miles it vibrates through out the whole van when I turn left/right at low speeds. There is no problem at any speeds while going straight however. I've replaced both sides upper/lower ball joints, front wheel bearings, driver caliper, all the inner/outer tie rods, adjusting sleeve..etc, both rotors, u-joints(previous owner replaced them twice) new diff fluid, both rear drums with new pads. All 4 tires have signs of dry rot, but good amount of tread still on due to a lot of sitting. The van was sold as a 3.54 limited slip diff, but testing says its a possing traction. What am I missing?
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I have a 1996 Ford Explorer (4WD model). Approximately 4 months ago I had a new set of tires put on it, and in the process of replacing the tires the shop noticed that I had a bad ball joint and one of my wheel bearings was going bad. They said the ball joints were known for completely failing, but the wheel bearings usually didn't, so they recommended that the ball joint be replaced first. That is what I had them do. I haven't had the money to get the wheel bearing replaced yet. This past week it got worse to the point where I can hear it now.
At low speeds I can hear a grinding/rattling-type noise from the front drivers side (that's the side that has the bad wheel bearing). At higher speeds the grinding/rattling-type noise fades away due to road noise, but I can still hear a humming-type of noise that is a bit loader than normal - this noise just started a couple of weeks ago so I'm suspecting that this might also be related to the bad bearing.
I won't have the money to get this fixed for another 2 weeks. In order for me to have the money in 2 weeks I will need to continue working at my job 2 days a week. It's approximately 2 hours round-trip from my home to my job. Obviously with the bearing sounding significantly worse I don't want to drive it any more than I have to, but the only way I can get the money to fix it is to keep driving it back and forth to work.
Here's my question. What risks am I running by continuing to drive this? Am I running the risk of the wheel falling off while I'm driving down the freeway at 70 mph? Am I likely to experience other damaged parts in that area of the vehicle?
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I have a 1996 Ford Ranger which was manufactured in 08/95. The key will crank the trunk fine, but it when put into the off position nothing happens. It continues to run as normal. You can even take the key out, but the truck runs like normal. Could this be bad ignition switch? The key seems to be doing its job because I can see the plastic pin(? I am not sure what its called) move back and forth down steering column when the key is turned.
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1996 Ford Ranger 4-Cyl. 90,000 miles. 5 speed manual transmission. When the truck is driven 10-15 miles and heats up the clutch will seize in the up position. Once the engine is turned off then it can't be turned back on because the clutch won't depress. After the truck has completely cooled down the clutch and the transmission again work fine, as long as I keep any use under about 10 miles.
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My 96 ranger had lost a brake pad coming out of the mountains. I replaced the rotor but the ABS light came on as well as the check engine within a week. Several issues the clock spring was bad, replaced. The cam position Sensor was bad, replaced. I had this at a shop in a small town. While I was there they ran diagnostics.
At first the ABS module was sending data and gave them some info. Suddenly there was no more data stored in the module. They ordered a new ABS module installed it and replaced the LF sensor cable. Both sensors were cleaned prior to this.
The new abs module required a trip to ford to reprogram. At the shop they still could not get the light out. I took the truck home to my ford dealer and they said bad abs. Got a new (rebuilt Mfg discontinued) Installed and ford said this was bad with a code c1102. 4 w 4wd installed needs 4 w 2wd. ordered a new abs. Ford said same code again and the tech said that the ABS is not communicating through the obdii port.
My thoughts are the reader they used at the small shop was defective and either shorted out something or blew a fusible link. I am told this is 4 wheel abs with the rear sensors are on the pumpkin but after looking at the diagrams I do not see a RABS fuse. I have tested all fuses, and the shop replaced several relays. The pcm and ABS diodes check ok. Perplexed.
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