Ford - Ranger :: 1996 - Oil Pressure Indicator Started Flopping Around Like A Fish On Dry Land
Apr 5, 2012
1996 2WD Ranger that I've had since 1998 and has been a good truck. I like having my vehicle paid off. That's basically the cost of manufacturing a license tag and not much more. I need a truck occasionally to haul my dogs, but not most of the time, so a small truck is a good compromise.
A couple of weeks ago, the oil pressure indicator started flopping around like a fish on dry land. I took it to my mechanic, whom I trust since he has occasionally directed me to people who can do work cheaper than he can. He put a mechanical gauge on it and determined that the oil pressure is actually fluctuating, it isn't just a bad sensor. So far, no lifter noises though. He says there's a leak somewhere and to find it will require pulling the engine to get the oil pan loose since most of the stuff that might leak is inside there. Since the engine has 200,000 miles on it, he says I might as well get a new engine.
So I've been trying to decide whether to replace the engine or just get a new truck. Toyota and Nissan have incentives right now that make new vehicles competitive with recent used ones. But I'd really like to get a few more years out of this one. I'll be applying for tenure and promotion next year, and a raise comes along with that, which makes a new one more achievable. Of course, the incentives will go away by then.
The transmission has had a slow leak for the last ~80,000 miles. The transmission guy told me I'd be better off living with it and just topping up the fluid, which I've had to do about every 6 months for the last 7 or 8 years. It seems to be stable . . . but it IS a leak, and the transmission does also have 200,000 miles on it too.
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So I just replaced the timing belt, water pump, power steering pressure line and all associated seals and gaskets including the oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket. I fired the car up and everything appeared to be fine so I decided the next step was a nice little drive just to make sure all was well.
Everything checked out until I was a couple hundred feet from my driveway when I stopped to talk to a neighbor the oil pressure light started to flicker on and off, occasionally it stayed on for a second or two. when I accelerate the light goes away. I have not put a pressure gauge on it yet.
For example lets just say the pressure is good??? then what??? and the oil pressure switch is brand new. the oil pump passed the inspection listed in the manual and the only thing I did that it didn't tell me to was assemble the oil pump with some assembly lube after changing the shaft seal and housing gasket.
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2006 Prius, 134K miles. All tire pressures perfect but pressure indicator light started flashing about a minute then stays on. Happens each time car starts. There have been no weather temperature fluctuations. Attempted indicator reset by pushing “ON” once without pedal push and then pushing and holding pressure reset button under dash for a minute. Nothing happens. Indicator does not come on or flash when pushing the reset button while in “On” mode. Tires have not been changed or rotated since last year.
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I am losing residual fuel pressure on my 1996 ranger 2wd, 3.0, V6. Acts fuel starved after sitting for awhile, cranks ok turn key off starts up, sometimes i have to do this twice.
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The warning light on the dash of my '96 ranger 4.0, auto with 233k miles started coming on. The only thing I have done recently was to replace my battery. Just trying to figure it out.
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My 2012 F250 4x4 tire pressure warning message/warning light it on, I have checked all tire pressures, they seem fine, i s this a common problem and what normally has to be done to fix the issue...
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I have a 2000 Ford Focus automatic dohc 157K. About two years ago, it started making a noise that has gotten progressively worse. It is very hard to describe. It sounds like an intermittent flopping noise that you would expect from a bad tire. What makes is strange, is that the sound is not consistent with the rotation of the wheels. It does however increase and decrease with speed, but again it's inconsistent with the wheel rotation. It does not roar, or whine like a bearing, and there is not popping noise you usually get with a bad CV joint.
It seems to subside when I turn to the right and become a little more pronounced when I turn to the left. I have new tires, a new axle and wheel bearing on the right (passenger) side of the car. The repair shop checked all of the bushings and bearings, and cannot hear the noise when it is on a lift. I also just changed the sway bar links and all the engine mounts. You can feel the floorboard bumping along with the sound, but it does not telegraph through the steering wheel. There is no shimmy or vibration.
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Working on my bosses 97 Econoline conversion van. The steering wheel was flopping in the breeze, gear indicator was off and some of the time it would be in reverse when you thought it was in park. Checked the torx on the shift cable plate and they are tight. Replaced the 2 bushings on the shift column. They tightened up the steering wheel flopping around. I checked the shift cable and it appears to be in good shape.
It would start sometimes if you worked the shifter in park or moved it to neutral. Now it will not turn over. Shift lock actuator does not appear to be working. Does not lock it park. No continuity between any of the three pins with the actuator pushed in or out. If you turn the key you can take it out of park without pushing on the brake. Really do not know the series of events that have to occur to make it turn over. How to trouble shoot the problem?
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I have a 2007 F-150 that I'm having a little problem with. The tire pressure indicator light has kept coming on almost every time I drive it. I checked the tires, all register 35 pounds cold which is what it calls for. It has been going on in hot or cold weather for the past 4-5 months but will go off after I'd say 5 or 10 minutes of driving it. I really can't figure out what is going on with it. Bad sensor maybe? I looked to find something about this but couldn't or I didn't look hard enough.
2007 Ford F-150, Supercab, Lariat, 4X2, 6FT5 box,
5.4 Triton V8, black in color, gold bottom trim, 3.73 LSD,
9.75 axle, tow pckg. 0-60 recently clocked at 7.7 sec with
no tune.
Mods: Magnaflow SI/DO exhaust.
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Just bought my first F150. 1998 XLT 4.6l automatic. 126K miles, looks like it was mostly garage kept. All power, A/C, etc.
Picked it up this evening, drove it home after dark. About a 30 mile mostly highway speed drive. Everything went fine, no problems, no hiccups......Until I turned on my last street, about a half mile from home. The battery indicator light on the dash started blinking intermittently. I didn't notice anything else, just the red battery shaped light blinking.
What would cause this, what should I check? I don't want a big problem when I haven't even transferred the title yet!
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I went to start my 97 ranger this morning and when I turned the key I got the standard indicator lights. Then when I tried to start it there was nothing no click no crank just quiet. When I turn the key back the dash indicator lights stayed on even after the key was in the off position and removed from the switch. I tried it a few more times and the same thing happened. I had to disconnect the battery so the indicator lights, radio, etc. would not drain the battery.What do I need to repair this.
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I have no High Beams and the little blue light does not come on in the dash. I also do not have flash to pass. I searched through the older posts and found other similar problems but their dash indicator came on. I changed both bulbs this morning and checked the 2 fuses in the panel (#4 & 8 I believe.)
What to check next? I don't see how you would get the headlight switch out of the dash to change it, the fuse panel is directly behind it. Does it get moved to access the switch? Should I be looking at the dash on/off switch first or the column lo/hi/flash to pass switch?
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I am towing my 5th wheel RV trailer and just started out on my journey. I've driven 350 miles. I stopped for a breather for about two hours. Now my truck won't start and a low oil pressure indicator beeps in the message center. My truck is a 2011 F250 super duty 6.7ltre diesel. Recently had oil change and fuel filter change.....
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When car is started, volume on radio is very low. As the car warms up, the radio volume increases. What do I check or fix?
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98 Ranger 4x4 4.0 L Supercab. Today I replaced my instrument cluster lights. When I put everything back together i noticed my gear shift indicator is off and I cant shift into 1st or 2nd. What did I screw up?
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Just bought a R32 from a dealer. The low tire pressure indicator is on, but when I check the PSI it's good in all 4 tires. The dealer told me they let all the air out of the tires and fill them with N2 so it take awhile for the indicator to shut off. Is this true or is there something wrong with the car?
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I have a 1996 Ford Ranger which was manufactured in 08/95. The key will crank the trunk fine, but it when put into the off position nothing happens. It continues to run as normal. You can even take the key out, but the truck runs like normal. Could this be bad ignition switch? The key seems to be doing its job because I can see the plastic pin(? I am not sure what its called) move back and forth down steering column when the key is turned.
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1996 Ford Ranger 4-Cyl. 90,000 miles. 5 speed manual transmission. When the truck is driven 10-15 miles and heats up the clutch will seize in the up position. Once the engine is turned off then it can't be turned back on because the clutch won't depress. After the truck has completely cooled down the clutch and the transmission again work fine, as long as I keep any use under about 10 miles.
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My 96 ranger had lost a brake pad coming out of the mountains. I replaced the rotor but the ABS light came on as well as the check engine within a week. Several issues the clock spring was bad, replaced. The cam position Sensor was bad, replaced. I had this at a shop in a small town. While I was there they ran diagnostics.
At first the ABS module was sending data and gave them some info. Suddenly there was no more data stored in the module. They ordered a new ABS module installed it and replaced the LF sensor cable. Both sensors were cleaned prior to this.
The new abs module required a trip to ford to reprogram. At the shop they still could not get the light out. I took the truck home to my ford dealer and they said bad abs. Got a new (rebuilt Mfg discontinued) Installed and ford said this was bad with a code c1102. 4 w 4wd installed needs 4 w 2wd. ordered a new abs. Ford said same code again and the tech said that the ABS is not communicating through the obdii port.
My thoughts are the reader they used at the small shop was defective and either shorted out something or blew a fusible link. I am told this is 4 wheel abs with the rear sensors are on the pumpkin but after looking at the diagrams I do not see a RABS fuse. I have tested all fuses, and the shop replaced several relays. The pcm and ABS diodes check ok. Perplexed.
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A few days ago, the light for the Tire pressure monitor lit up in the dash. I got the car with nitrogen in the tires so I'm assuming that i have to take this back to the dealer to check the tire pressure and reset the indicator in the dash? How sensitive is this tire pressure monitor?
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I own a 2012 Hyundai Sonata, my grandma owns a 2014 Sonata, and my other grandparents own a 2011 Sonata. On their cars, when their low tire pressure light comes on, the little display inside the RPM gauge shows them which tire is low. My low tire pressure light comes on and works, but for some reason it doesn't indicate which tire is low. It'll tell me which door is opened, but won't show which tire is low. How to fix this, or why it's happening?
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