Ford - Ranger :: 1994 - New Ignition Key Lock Cylinder / Steering Wheel Not In Locked Position
Aug 30, 2014
I easily removed the key lock cylinder but when I went to put the new one in I cannot get it to turn all the way back to lock the pin in place. The steering wheel is not in the locked position nor can I get it to lock. I have turned the steering wheel as far left and right as I could go with no success on getting it to lock or on getting the ignition key lock cylinder to turn back securing the actuator pin. The old key lock cylinder won't go back in either. What am I doing wrong?
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My 2004 Accent is stuck in the "lock" position in the ignition, and the wheel is locked and barely turns in either direction. I know this is supposed to be an anti-theft feature and I've tried all of the solutions listed here...
Turning the wheel hard and soft in either direction while holding the brake all the way down and trying to turn the key. Putting the car in neutral and then park and trying the above Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and trying the above Jacking the car up on one side to release the tension on the pin.
My question is can I remove the spring at the bottom of the locking pin by drilling a hole in the center of the plate? I've seen a few youtube videos of this done on BMW's. It will cost me $500 minimum to replace the ignition or steering column based on quotes I got.
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I own a Honda 2009 Accord EXL with about 25,000 miles. Over the last 5 years a problem has occurred randomly (at least 8 times) and up to last week I was able to over come it. The problem is: when attempting to start the car you find that the steering wheel, shift lever, and ignition key lock are all "locked" up. Nothing can be moved or turned. Thus you can not start or move the car. Up until last week I would jiggle the steering wheel or the shift lever and it would unlock. I took it to the Honda dealer after the first few times and they all but laughed at me . Then last week nothing I did could to get the devices unlocked.
I called the local dealer and he advised having it towed in, which I did. When the tow truck driver arrived he showed me the hidden compartment next to the shift lever and inserted the key. This did unlock the steering wheel sufficiently that we could get the car aligned with the tow truck. And I was able to insert the key and start the engine. But when I attempted to shift the car it acted as if it remained in neutral. In other words the engine roared but no motion no matter which gear I selected. We managed to get the car onto the tow truck and delivered to the dealer. Of course when the dealer looked at it, all was well no problem.
The dealer kept the car and "went over everything" and "found nothing wrong". They said they "have never experienced" this problem before and their home office confirmed that. The Dealer's solution: If you park the car, shift to Park, and turn it off and then turn the steering wheel counterclockwise hard, a click is heard and the whole car is locked up. The dealer showed me that by pushing hard on the brake, forcibly turning the wheel, and at the same time playing with the ignition key with a little luck it all unlocks. (Notice he did not indicate using the hidden compartment trick.)
I find it strange that the dealer has "never ever experienced this issue", yet has a "work around"!! Though I must admit it does work when you purposely "lock" the steering wheel (the random act has not occurred again so far). My question : is there some fault to the electronic (or other) sub systems which should be fixed? I just hate to have my wife out alone and run into the situation again.
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My keys got stolen from my ignition (battery had died because key was left in ACC and I assume the attempted car jack ended in a key theft for some reason.)
The Ranger is 96, tilt steering with plastic shrouding and column shift A/T... I followed the procedure recommended for exchanging the cylinder without the keys:
-drilled retaining pin
-drilled key slot
-manually removed parts with needle nose
-cleaned, greased and went to reinstall.....
I discovered the small metal washer between the green plastic washer and the gear was broken in half because I nicked it with the end of the drill bit. I inspected this and from what I can tell it looks like the green plastic washer is designed to hold onto the metal washer, the two of them together, from what I gather are designed to keep the gear from moving sideways or tilting. I figured that the washer should do it's job even in two pieces if I could get it in there straight and get the green washer to grab it.
Anyway I stuck it all back in there, slid the new lock cylinder in in run position, and nothing good happened. It's in the whole way, I can see the retaining pin centered in the whole from underneath, but when I try to seat the retaining pin it won't budge. I tried to align the parts at a million different angles and I just have no luck. I am planning on replacing the little metal washer, but I don't feel like it being broken alone is enough to keep all parts from functioning properly. I am stumped because I did the procedure step for step and there is nothing else apparently broken or damaged. The only other factor is that the steering wheel is locked and that sometimes made the other cylinder hard to turn, but it freed up usually with a little wiggling, this cylinder won't budge.
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I have a 1999 jeep cherokee 4 liter in line 6.tilt steering wheel is lock in one position. The handle that you release to move the steering wheel up or down don't have any tension on it.
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My steering wheel and ignition locked up 2 days ago. I tried turning the wheel and the ignition at the same time, tried the brakes, tried shifting gears and anything else i could think of. I think the problem might be with the ignition coils, or multiple ones, but i have bypassed that by hot-wiring the car(which was a pain because of all the anti-theft features).
So I have the car running now and it is almost drivable except the steering wheel is locked up. I need to know how to fix this, i have read plenty on it and i think i can break a pin that locks the steering wheel to make it work, but i don't know where this pin is(might be behind the ignitions, or attached to it somewhere). if i could do this without breaking anything that would be great, but if the car will run, I am ok with it begin broken, because i already hot-wired it so I'm not worried about breaking anything unless it will make the car not run.
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Went to start my car today but couldn't move my steering wheel at all??
Ignition still works and i can turn my keys but not the wheel?
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My 04 ranger edge steering wheel is locked the tumbler is out but the little gear box on the tumbler is broke off and still in the assembly how do I get it out to install a new tumbler?
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So this happened 2 times before, I am sure it is something I am doing and not the car.
So i just parked and turned off my car, and i noticed i left my windows up, so i tried to turn the car back on but the ignition would not turn and steering wheel would not move. I pressed harder and harder but it still was locked. My bro told me that same happened to his Civic and to unlock it you have to press on break hard and ignition would unlock, i tried that but nothing happened.
I googled and read online to insert the key into the ignition, try turning the car on and at the same time turn the wheel side to side. I did it and the car unlocked. My question is this, why did it lack in the first place, has this ever happened to you, if so how did you unlock it.
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I have a 2008 RX 350 and I am experiencing issues with turning the key ignition and having the steering wheel locked. It gets locked and after several attempts at jimmying the key it eventually starts. My concern is that if I keep this practice up I will damage my key. I have addressed this issue to the dealership and I was naive and trusted them with fixing the problem with my last maintenance visit. Thinking the the problem was solved I started to experience the same problem again. I was first told that it is possible the my key chains are too heavy which could of caused the problem but I lightened the load and still have this problem. I've read about this problem with other people but there doesn't seem to be a solution.
One thing I have noticed is that I tend to experience this problem during the cold weather. During warmer weathers I don't have issues with the key ignition being locked but now that it's cold I am having the problem again (not sure if this has to do with anything). Do I need to change a part out to fix this? I've also read that there can be dirt in the ignition which needs to be cleaned out. Will this work and if so how do I do clean it?
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I have a 1983 Mercedes 380 SL and the ignition key will not turn; the steering wheel will not release the key and I am at a loss as to what to do further than: tapping the ignition cartridge with a hammer, inserting key, tapping it, then trying. Nothing seems to even feel remotely like the key is attempting to work. I have heard it is best NOT to use WD-40 in the lock.
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Well, up until a week ago, I had a 2013 GS F sport, and I believe that the steering wheel on that car was able to lock in a perfectly centered position when parked and turning the vehicle off (and then opening the door and moving the wheel slightly so that it clicked).
However, I just picked up a 2015 F sport last week and am finding that its steering wheel will only click into its locked position at about 10-15 degrees to the left or right of center (a little before the 11 or 1 o'clock positions, respectively). It does this, despite the fact that I park the car and open the door while the steering wheel is perfectly centered. I must then turn it those extra degrees before it clicks and it then stays off-center.
Shouldn't the steering wheel on my new car be able to lock on the center position? Or am I just imagining that my 2013 was able to do this? The steering itself seems to be fine, but just want to make sure nothing is wrong here.
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So, I have an 89 Ford Ranger 4-wheel drive and the steering wheel is locked up (along with the ignition switch), neither of which will turn or budge. I've been told to shake steering wheel from side to side while trying to turn key--but after fifteen minutes of that (quite a workout) bupkis, nada, nothing. So, other than taking a sledge hammer to the whole truck? Is there a way to simply break loose the mechanism (I don't need the security aspect of the locking wheel/ignition, since I only use this for "farm use". But I really need it fixed.
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I have a 2014 GX 460 without air suspension. what I'm experiencing, is when the steering wheel is steered all the way (left or right), and car is in motion (reverse or forward) I will feel like I am going over a pebble stone road. You can feel it more during morning and cooler days. Otherwise not as much, but it's still there.
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I have a 2003 Lexus GS 300 with 125k. Two problems. First, the back doors don't lock or unlock electronically (well, very rarely one will unlock). The only way to lock/unlock them is to manually reach around. It started with the driver's side back door almost two years ago, and in the past 7-8 months the other one started doing the same thing.
Also, the steering wheel automatically moves out of position when the key is removed, and automatically back into position when the car is started. A nice feature, but the steering wheel screams when it moves up and down. It's loud and embarrassing.
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While in the locked position, the steering wheel was purposely jerked hard to disable the mechanism on a 1996 Ranger. Now the truck will not steer easily or smoothly and a popping noise is evident when turning. I'm not concerned about having the wheel lock, but would like to be able to return driveability to normal.
The same guy who caused this damage also damaged the ignition. No key is needed to turn the switch now.
I'm lost as to how the steering locking mechanism works and wondering if I need to tear apart the column or if maybe there is a locking pin accessible that needs to be removed to regain driveability.
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I have a 2002 Saab 9-3. I tried starting it this morning but the key won't move from the locked position at all! What should I do? The steering wheel doesn't seem to be locked and I had the battery changed not to long ago.
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My son has a 2003 Super Duty with auto locks, but the front wheels won't lock even when turn to locked position. Also when it's in two wheel drive the front drive shaft and axles still spin, are the hubs locked up or is it in the transfer case?
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My 96 F-350 Crew Cab driver rear door lock is stuck in the locked position. I don't have a cause but do now notice that the pass door lock will not operate with the lock/unlock switch. The rear solenoids seem dead. Front door locks are working.
I tried to put a 10-32 coupling nut on the lock riser and pull. The down position is now 1/8-1/4" higher than normal. This thing is really stuck and is really bad.
So before I start pulling the rear seat and trying to remove the door panel from a closed door; how I might unlock this door? It would be a lot easier to get the panel off if it is open.
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Started truck and turned the wheel far to the right and shut the truck off to get better access to the grease zerks. Now the entire column, ignition is locked up tight. I can't turn the key, remove it, anything? Thoughts? I'm stuck
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How do I remove ignition lock cylinder to take and get new set up?
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