1993 ford ranger 4 CLY 2 WD getting spark gas to injectors will only start when fluid is sprayed in air intake. have replaced fuel pu,p. fuel filter air intake regulator. ran okay till ran out of gas.
View 2 RepliesCar stopped running when I spray started fluid it starts up so I changed the Fuel pump and it still not starting?
View 1 RepliesOk the icp .hpop.ipop.crank ps and ficm is all good but still no start. I've sprayed alittle starting fluid and still don't start idk what else to do this truck is driving me up the wall it's been down for 2 weeks.
View 5 RepliesMy 1986 Ranger 2.9 starts only when I spray starter fluid into the air intake. It does stay running and it drives fine. The engine will not fire up unless I do this process. I have cleaned out the fuel rail, fuel injectors, purchased new fuel filter, and tested fuel pressure (which is good).
View 9 RepliesI have a 1993 ranger 3.0L/6cyl/automatic/ a4ld. I replaced the transmission and torque converter with one from a salvage yard that has approx. 76k miles. I added tranny fluid and idled the engine for approx. 10 minutes in neutral, but the fluid has not begone to circulate. I pulled off the trans line at the radiator and there is no flow with the engine running in park. Where should I start with the diagnostics for this problem?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 Pontiac Bonneville ssei (Supercharged) 3.8L V-6. I had a issue with the fuel injectors now that problem is fixed. I can't get the car to start on it's own. I and a auto garage have replaced the MAF,MAP,Camshaft Pos Sensor, Crankshaft POS Sensor, FPR, ICM, IAC, Someone had the TPS in wrong and I was missing 5 volts at pin B of the TPS. I corrected that and now it's ok. The engine cranks but it will not start on it's own, I have about 54 psi on the fuel rail.
The ECM was replaced by the dealer before i fixed the fuel injector problem but that did not work so the original is back in place. The car runs like a top after I shoot some starting spray down the intake and will run until I shut it off. I try to restart it and it won't start until I spray it again. I am very careful not to spray on the MAF sensor. Even with that being said I use Electronic spray cleaner to start it. All Sensor wires have been checked with the exception of the crankshaft position sensor which I'm going to do today going to the icm.
Basically it's a coolant leak problem for my 1996 Saturn SL1 Sedan. Here are the details of the problem....
About 6 months ago my Saturn started leaking coolant. It was very minor, I'd have to add a pint or so every 1 hour worth of driving or 40 miles (I experienced these early stages of a coolant leak before with a 1997 Buick Century). The problem very slowly increased 4 months ago and at about this time I noticed coolant residue on some of the engine parts. Using logic I determined the coolant must be leaking onto the belt which was spraying the fluid around, including the underside of the hood in a very fine line.
By 1 month ago I was adding about a quart of coolant every 15 miles. Still, very manageable with no other problems. Then 2 weeks ago it happened.... For the first time when I'd start my car it would issue that high-pitch squealing sound I'm sure we've all heard on older cars and thought, "man, that driver needs to get their car checked out." The noise would last for a few seconds, then stop. Rarely the sound would kick in also when coming out of a full stop.
Then 1 week ago, it all got worse. Now the car squeaks for around 2-5 seconds 50% of the time after a cold start. 80% of the time from a full or partial stop. About 90% of the time if my speed drops around 15mph. And now it even makes the noise for a few seconds (10% of the time) while driving +30mph. And the coolant leak is really bad. I have to fill the reservoir (add about 90%) anytime I drive more than a few blocks or +5 minutes. Also, for the first time, anytime I stop the car the coolant just drips onto the ground at a significant rate.
What sort of a problem I might be looking at based on my description?
I have a 97 chevy silverado with a 305 v8. She wont start!! The truck sat for a year then i got it the other day. We replaced the sparkplugs and put new gas in the truck. The truck has spark, but it wont run. It pops and sputters when you put starting fluid in the intake but wont run. The old plugs some were wet and some weren't. All were black. I checked the fuel system, the pump runs as it should, and I checked the access valve and it has tons of fuel pressure. But wont run. There are no codes. Is it the distributor? Or is it the fuel pressure regulator?
View 14 RepliesMy 1993 Ford Ranger XLT w 170,000 miles has been having an issue with not starting. It cranks fine. At first (for the last year), the fuel pump didn't sound right or didn't come on at all; when normal, you hear it for three seconds or so after turning key on. I have replaced fuel pump/relay/filter. Now, in the last week, it also will not idle after initial start, and I have to rapidly pump the accelerator lest it dies again. This whole process can take ten minutes or more to get the stars in proper alignment. This morning, I had to give up and drive my other beater into town. In addition to the parts I mentioned, I also replaced the ignition switch thinking not correct voltage to pump. I finally traced wires and do indeed have 12 volts to the pump (under the bed, after the inertia switch and all harness plugs). It has a new windshield, new tires, cold old R-12 A/C, and it's paid for.
View 8 RepliesI have a 93 Ford ranger that will not start. It was cranking fine. It would take 2 or 3 tries when it was cold but once warmed up it ran fine and would crank right back up until it was cold again. The last 3 or 4 times I drove the truck it fired right up on the 1st try. Then the last time I drove it, it cranked right up and I drove it between 5 and 10 miles. It sat for about an hour and when I tried to crank it, it wouldn't start. At first it sounded like it wanted to but after a few seconds all it would do is turn over.
After about a week of sitting I was able to crank it up again. It fired right up. I let it run for 15 minutes or so turning it off and re-cranking it. About 4 or 5 times. Then the last time I cut it off and tried to crank it back up it wouldn't start again. I replaced the pickup coil in the distributor, cleaned off the rotor button and leads on the distributor cap (they didn't look bad and were working fine before), I checked to see if I was getting spark but Im not getting it from the spark plug wires or directly from the coil wire.
I checked with a test light to see if I was getting power to the coil and distributor from the wiring harnesses. With the key on power is going into both but I'm not getting any arch when I test directly from the coil wire or the spark plug wires. Ive also switched out the relays and tested the coil and starter solenoid on another vehicle and they work fine. My next step I'm thinking about replacing the computer but don't want to spend on a part a can't return if thats not the problem.
Sometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start, the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad.... 1993 ford ranger .....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 f350 6.0. awhile back i was driving down the road and it died. popped the hood and there was a small amount of oil sprayed on the hood. rocker arm bolt had broke. that's been replaced and no it won't start. cranks and acts like it will what to fire for a second then it just cranks and does nothing. reading the tech on no start issues theres a lot to look at.
View 6 RepliesSometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start,the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad....
View 2 Replies2005 f350 crewcab 6.0 sprayed engine down with degreaser and hosed off 4 days ago wont start have dried and blown everything out still nothing....
View 3 RepliesI took my 2010 F-150 for brake job and ended up with brake fluid in intake!! How that happened?
View 12 RepliesI took my 1993 Ford Explorer for an oil change they told me I also needed a rear differential service and a transmission service, so I told them to go ahead (this was on a wednesday). On friday the car broke down leaking transmission fluid (reddish oil). The clutch was making a sound when pushed in and we were not able to shift. I towed it back to the place where the oil was changed the gentelman open something under the car and he said that it had transmission fluid. He got on the car turned on and push the clutch when he did that a lot of fluid began coming out (reddish oil). He said it was the clutch that went out. We think they messed up the transmission. I towed the truck to a garage and the guy mentioned something about a plug related to the transmission. Could the oil people have done something wrong to the transmission that made the car break down???
View 4 Replies'03 Ranger, 2.3L. Runs great except at idle. Code p0171. Replaced IAC, no luck.
Brake cleaner leak test definitely results in engine rpm change right around "butterfly rod" plug in front of intake manifold near no. 1 cyl. I'm pretty sure that's the problem - the plastic plug blew out. I watched a video showing repair, but it seems lacking.
I do not want to loosen up intake for access - I'd rather remove steering pump and gain some access to plug it up. There still isn't much access but, but eyeballing it, enough to plug, I think.
Three steering pump bolts came out easy. The fourth one is behind fluid line - extremely difficult to access, imo.
Somehow try to remove pump for access to intake hole, or bite the bullet and remove intake manifold for access?
I would like to install a cold air intake in my 2011 Ford Ranger. What brand should I go for? Volant or K&N?
View 4 RepliesI was working on my friend's '87 Ranger with 2.9 L V6, and a little bit of dirt fell into the intake manifold through the injector ports and intake ports. I should've cleaned the top of the engine with a shop vac first. Anyway, should I remove the intake manifold, or try to vacuum the bits out? It's pretty oily inside, and they might be stuck to the inside of it, so the vac might not do much. If I have to remove it, do I have to de-mesh the distributor gear to remove it, or does the distributor attach to a splined shaft? After looking at the diagrams, the answer was unclear.
View 1 Replies2.4 Santa Fe ... I just took my Car to MOT inspection and found out there's a leak at my intake manifold and it's coming out of this place. it feels like brake fluid but my brake fluid is full?? I have seen many cars but never seen a part like this before. what is it doing there and why is it leaking ?
View 6 RepliesSo i was thinking about buying a intake manifold for my truck and porting it and polish it. Would it be worth doing. I've decided that trying to port the heads will take up to much time and money for gaskets. Now the only reason why I am buying another stock one is so i can take my time and do it right.
View 14 Replies