Ford - Ranger :: 1991 V6 - Antifreeze In Exhaust
Jul 19, 2013
I have a 1991 ford ranger 4x4, 4.0 v6. 190,000 miles. Runs great and even gets 18-20 mpg on hwy trips with a 1200lb camper. I have been using small amounts of antifreeze for the passed year with no leaks. Lately much more, sometimes a 1/4 gallon in 400 miles. 4,000 miles ago was having a miss and changed the plugs that had 30,000 miles on them. Miss went away but came back 2000 miles later. Changed plugs again and wires and miss went away. Now about 1000 miles later no miss but using more antifreeze. The plugs each time looked pretty good. The last time, when I changed the plugs and wires, it started blowing a lot of white smoke on initial start up for at least 30 minutes at idle, then just water dripping off the tail pipe.
It did that a few more times and then stopped. When it sits for a few days I can see the smoke on start up for a few minutes only. I just took a 400 mile trip with the camper and it ran great except for the using antifreeze. I took a compression test and they are all within 7 lbs of each other. I did a block test using the blue fluid in the proper tester to check for exhaust fumes in the air in the radiator. The fluid stayed blue indicating no exhaust fumes in the radiator. I hooked up a radiator pressure tester and pumped to 20 lbs, didn't drop for 30 minutes. On a cold engine pumped radiator tester to 10 lbs, disengaged ignition and turned engine over 5 different times 10 seconds each. Needle stayed at 10 and didn't fluctuate.
I hooked up a vacuum gauge, teed into the line from upper intake manifold to brake booster. I am at 5000 feet altitude so deducted 5 from all the results of the tests I read about online. Everything seems totally normal with vacuum. Needle is steady at 16 at idle, 17 steady at 1800 rpm and 2500 rpm. At 2500 rpm for 15 seconds and release throttle it climbs to 19 and then back to 16. If intake manifold gasket is leaking would it show up in vacuum test?My first thoughts were head gasket but after reading some forums I am wondering if it could be intake manifold gaskets. I am not sure about the configuration of the water and intake ports.
Seems like antifreeze is getting into the combustion but no combustion getting into the antifreeze.I called Ford dealer and they said could be a thermostat housing or sensors around that area on the intake manifold or the water pump and of course wanted me to bring it in for testing. It does not make sense to me how any of those could cause leaking into the manifold? How that could happen and how to check for that?So....Is there any way to know if the antifreeze is coming from either of the intake gaskets or the head gasket or a cracked head? If it was a cracked head or head gasket I was thinking of trying a sealer, steel seal. If a manifold maybe a product with copper in it. If that didn't work then I was going to tear it down.
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I have a 94 ranger 4L. I am looking for a more loud exhaust sound in/outside the truck and at idle. I have had a cherry bomb turbo on it and it was ok but not loud enough for my liking. I just picked up a flowmaster 40 2 days ago and it sounds good but again just not loud enough for my taste and kinda a lot more. I was looking for a louder muffler that is not a glasspack and would like to stay under like 80 or so.
I also thought about getting a high flow cat which i think might make some more sound but was not sure. Im running the stock pipe which is 2" and end in back of the wheel on the right. I look at the Hooker Headers Maximum Flow Muffler which i thought would be louder b/c it's more straight through the muffler so it would put off more sound better. What would u recommend for something more loud ?
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I have had a small antifreeze drip coming from up high around what I have been thinking was the water pump gasket. I have not pin pointed it exactly though. for the last 3 days i have been getting code po174 and now added po171 to that list. Also have something going on with my fuel fill vent or something as for a while now i have had to slowly squeeze in fuel to keep the pump from auto shut off on me like its full already. I have tried cleaning out that vent tube by spraying in carb cleaner even blowing on it but it seems to be a check valve, not able to blow in. i am thinking tonight that antifreeze leak may be related to those codes too. any thoughts? its on my 2003 ranger 3.0 flex fuel.
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I am mixed up in which fasteners I have to tighten to stop my antifreeze leak. For this, I got some pictures. Do I have to tighten these bolts? Or these? Is this the upper intake intake manifold?
I am just really lost and want to tighten the right bolts and find the torquing specs of the bolts. In the first picture, we can clearly see there is a leak there of what must be antifreeze. The stuff I have been loosing slowly over months.
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Son has a 1987 ford ranger 2.9 engine 5 speed 4x4 truck. See anti freeze leaking @ the rear of the engine where the intake attaches to the block. How long to re & re the intake, ect. Is it just gaskets or what? Is it a big job?
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About a year ago several things started with my 1991 Ranger (180,000 miles, and has always run just like it did when I drove it off the lot). Maybe they are related, maybe not.
1) significantly reduced mileage,
2) surging at idle from 1000 rpm up to 1300 rpm and then right back down - very rhythmic,
3) Check Engine light comes on every now and then, but goes off in less than 30 minutes, or if engine is stopped and restarted,
4) way less heat available through the heating system,
5) somewhat reduced power.
I have changed the thermostat and replaced the plugs and ignition wires, but nothing has changed in the way the truck runs.
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My 1991 ranger with a 4.0 turns over but will not start. It acted like it ran out of gas put again seems to do ok then it did same thing it sat over night then would not start so I thought I would put some gas in the intake so it starts ran real rough but smoothed after a few minutes ran fine after that next morning same thing no start did same put gas in intake at first no start just turned over didn't even try let it sit for awhile then tried again it fires up ran rough but ran now I get nothing just turns over pulled codes 22and 122 replaced both had ignition mod checked its good new coil pack no change so at this point i hear fuel pump kick on fuel getting to fuel bar but seems a bit week on pressure going to get pressure gauge and see what it says but in the meantime I am loosing my mind...
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I recently bought a 91 Ranger 4wd for my son. The guy I bought it from put new manual lock outs on it. every time I take the tire off on either side the hub comes with it! Is there a clip or retainer missing? If so what and where can I get one?
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My dad's 1991 Ford ranger 3.0 2wd just died on him when he was driving home and I checked to see if the truck had a spark and it did not so I replaced the ignition control module, then ignition coil, then distributor and rotor cap(plug) and I put new plugs and wires on it a few months back too. I also checked to make sure that the timing chain was working as well (while I had the distributor cap off). Then I realized that the EEC maxi fuse was blown. I then found a fourm that said it might be the relay so I replaced the EEC and the fuel pump relays while I had them both out. Every time I put a new 30 amp fuse in the EEC slot and turn the key to start it the fuse blows and the truck won't start. What might be wrong?
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Getting the Banana ready for it's smog test appt at the shop last night (it WAS today) Check engine light had popped on and it had been starting to sputter and surge at the idle occasionally for the last few days so I took a look at the MAF and saw dirty wires. Aha I can fix that, a couple squirts of MAF cleaner, plug it back in and voila! No more light, the Banana ran down the road around the block, over the hill and through the dale like a champ. I shut her down and call it a night.
This morning, hop in and fire the Banana up like usual and all I get is a nice peppy crank over. The Banana has had a bunch (pun intended) of new parts throw at her recently... new battery, starter solenoid, plugs and fuel pump relay and fuel filter. All within the last couple of months.
Out of complete disbelief, I ground on the ignition for a little while and she finally kicked over and sputtered to life. I let her idle a couple of minutes and things seemed fine so off we go. I make it about a block before the Banana starts hiccuping and bucking like something possessed and dies.... kaput.
The Banana has a 3.0, manual transmission and at least half a tank of fuel. Long story short and a tow truck ride home again, half a day trying unsuccessfully to pull a code, any code.... nothing. She will half-heartedly cough and spastically run with ether shots and near as I can tell I'm not getting fuel to the fuel rail relief port. I'm really hoping there is some way to diagnose a faulty fuel pump without having to drop the tank and fish the damn thing out.
I'm not hearing it run when the ignition is turned on but then again I don't think I've ever heard it run. Any other things to try before I replace the pump itself???
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My ranger is an 89 but it's got a 91 motor in it, 2.9 V6. When I accelerate it hesitates before actually accelerating which makes me think the TPS is bad. Probed and tested and I got .85V throttle closed and 4.65 at wide open. Specs call for .8V - 4.5V
I'm not sure if there's an allowance of fluctuation, but is that high enough to point out a bad TPS? If it's not the TPS, is the ignition timing off or what else could it be?
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1991 2.3 l. Thought I had an exhaust manifold Leak. Replaced gasket. New gasket didn't work. Removed gasket and mounted manifold to engine metal to metal, still and noise. Installed New manifold with gasket. Still same noise. Am thinking noise not coming from manifold. Torqued all bolts to spec. Could it be lifters .
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Grandson 1991 Ranger 3.0 v6 69,000 miles We have a long start issue after it has sat for 30 mins. plus. If you open the throttle part way while cranking it will start fairly easily. Fuel pressure comes up instantly when you turn on the key. It runs at 39 psi pull the vac line off regulator it jumps to 49 psi. Fuel pressure does drop to about 30 psi after setting an hour. It kinda acts like it is flooded when it starts. so far we have done a complete tune up plugs wires cap and rotor. The ignition module has been replaced twice last one a real Motorcraft. New fuel pump and filter. Cleaned the fuel injectors with Ford cleaning system. I will replace the coil next and maybe clean the iac.
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I have a 91 Ranger that the A/C was working great in but all of a sudden it stopped working even the fan. I turned it of and back on and it started again but then just stopped for good I can get the fan to work sometime, but no cold air. What it might be?
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I can't get power to the fuel pump on my 91 ranger 3.0 5 speed. I just bought the truck and replaced all the relays checked all the fuses under the dash and under the hood. If I jump the relay it comes on and wont go off.
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1991 Ranger 4.0L A4LD... Its a 4x4. ext cab
What else will bolt up to this 4.0L? Could i put a 4R44E/4R55E tranny? Is there a good stick that bolts up?
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I have a 91 Ranger V6 4WD with 150K that has been sitting for 7 years. The last time I drove it (7 years ago) to a mechanic, who diagnosed it with a bad head gasket - leaking coolant and coolant in the oil.
What am I looking at as far as a project: besides redoing the head gasket, what else will I most likely need to do given that its been sitting 7 years?
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I now have a 1991 ranger 3.0 super cab. I need a step by step walkthrough of how to time it. Keep in mind that I ha the distributor out while turning the engine over so I need from start to finish, including the spout connector. It runs right now but idles high at the start and the. Stumbles down to about 500rpm and sometimes dies....
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I have a 91 Ranger 4cyl. Tune up about 2 months ago. Mileage about 178,000. When the temperature gets below about 45 degrees, the truck will not start. It cranks like the battery has plenty of juice but refuses to start. Once the temp warms up, the truck will start first crank.
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My '91 Ranger 4X4 has developed an odd rattle that sounds like it's coming from the transfer case. It seems to be pretty much the same whether the truck is stopped or moving, or in Park or Reverse, or in 2wd or 4wd or Low Range. I hear it when the engine is just idling, with the transmission in Park and the parking brake on. It seems to be getting louder. I have the 4L V-6 with auto transmission.
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It looks like my door lock wire looms go under the hood but I haven't had any luck finding them. Install an alarm with negative 500Ma pulse to operate them ? I have relays but am also wondering if the truck has its own somewhere that I can piggyback onto. I know the colors are Pink with a yellow stripe and Pink with a light green stripe.
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