Ford - Ranger :: 1990 - 5th Gear Kicks Out
Nov 18, 2011
90 Ranger with 5 speed manual, Every thing works as it should untill you put it into 5th, lift the clutch pedel and you fine, the tac responds and I asume your now in gear, but press on the gas pedel to give it a load. whhhhhiiiinnnkkk and the gear selector kicks back to netrual.Also I did remove an inspection panel from bottom center of the tranz and could see no sighns or damage, rounded or broken teeth.It's been sugested that it's just time to re do the clutch, if so why do all the other gear selections work without any problems?
2.9 v6 w/95k and I don't know the history.
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I just bought this Ranger a really bad steering issue. When at low speeds, when I go to turn the steering "jumps/kicks." Then after I straighten out at the end of the turn it jumps in the direction that the steering wheel is being turned. This goes away at higher speeds (40+mph).
I was told by the seller that it needs a new steering pump, but my mechanic said that it was operating well. He noticed that the bearings were loose on the driver side and tightened them up. The problem went away. I just finished driving it for about 20 miles and the problem is back.
What do you think? Is there a way to easily shut off the p-steering to see if that is the problem? Is this a good idea?
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I recently changed the front pads and rotors on my 2002 Ford Ranger 2wd and I'm having some troubles now. Occasionally when I'm pulling up to stop lights toward the end of my braking i can feel them cut out and the ABS kicks on. It's a very intermittent problem, and it only happens at low speeds. When I try to induce the fault it never happens, it only seems to after an extended period of braking going less than 10 mph. I'm very confused, and I was thinking about changing out my calipers unless know what might be happening.
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When I turn the control to heat the AC compressor kicks in. If turned to vent it does not kick in. Was this just a design flaw.
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I just got 99 Passat with 1.8T. It kicks in 5th gear only at 45mph or later, never any earlier. Don't have much experience with 4cyl Passat, is this norm. or should I get the transmission checked....
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199) Ford Ranger will turn over but isn't firing. We've replaced the battery, positive battery cable, distributor, distributor wires, the selonoid inside the distributor, starter selonoid.
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My 90 Ford Ranger 4 banger is my construction beater. I had replaced the starter because the old on had refused to fully engage into the flywheel. After replacing it it worked fine for a few months and started doing the same grinding sound again. I took that starter back thinking it may have been defective. After replacing s new one again It did it again after one day plus it kept on going after turning off the key. To stop the grinding I quickly disconnected the battery. I still kept on going when ever I reconnected the battery. what is going on?
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I have a 1990 Ford Ranger with 216K miles. Over the last few years, the headlights have become dimmer and dimmer.
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I recently acquired a 4.0 Ranger 4X4 Auto for my use in Costa Rica. It runs fine but it'll illuminate the CEL within a few seconds of starting and whenever revs fall below approx 1000. When pulling off the line or accelerating, the light will go out but comes back on when the throttle closes. The previous owner has replaced the MAF and idle air valve. I've corrected a lot of issues with the vacuum system and think it's back where it ought to be. I know I am going to need to pull the codes but I'm back in Dallas now and can't do it yet. Need general list of affected parts that I could buy here and take back down.
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I got a 1990 Ranger 4x4 2.9l that loves to get hot only when the ac is on. The engine was rebuilt by me about 2000 miles ago and I made sure to have the block boiled in order to clean out any crap that could've been built up in the water jackets. So far the radiator, cap, thermostat, and fan clutch have been replaced. The fan shroud is intact and the condenser has a few bent fins but not many.
Here in Vegas we're looking at 100+ from 10 am - 4 pm so the ac is a must. I could be sitting at a light all day with the ac turned off and the truck doesn't have an issue. When I turn the ac on though the truck almost immediately begins to get hot. The engine drops maybe 100 rpms and the voltage gauge also drops a little. At night if I'm running the ac the voltage drops to what looks like 10 volts.
While the ac is on there is an immediate loss of power as well. In my head I'm thinking a failing compressor, water pump, and alternator are at fault. It doesn't matter if the truck is moving either, the temp still climbs.I know the rangers are funky with their cooling so when I burped the system i turned the heater on and lifted the front end about 1 ft off the ground with the cap off.
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1990 ranger 2.9 ... I have put about everything new on this ranger. It has no spark, ran fine til i went across a set of railroad tracks, it died 6 months ago and never started again .. Many dollars and many hrs has gone into this thing and still no spark. It will spark when you turn the key on. Crank it and 3 more sparks and thats it. Every electrical piece has been replaced. I've checked and bought relays ,fuel shut off, new distributor pickup coil, rotor, cap, wires, plugs, coil and still no start?
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I have a 90' Ford Ranger, rear wheel drive.
I can not find a 2 wheel drive automatic transmission and I was wondering if I can convert a 4 wheel drive transmission?
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Just picked up a 90 Ranger last night, 4.0 EC, good ole A4LD, from a recipt I found has 70K or so on rebuild, was driving it today and the TC unlocked, and now it won't lock back up. I checked fluid and it was a little low, topped it off and drove it, and it was the same thing. I'm kinda new to thease A4LDs I know they can have issues, but can be good too. Just want to know whats going on so I can fix it! No codes were found when I scanned it. Trans otherwise shifts fine, you can feel it go into OD but no lockup.
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I have '90 Ford Ranger 2wd standard cab long bed. A few days ago the speedo stopped working. What is the more likely cause? The gauge itself or a relay/cable. And if it is the cable/relay are they hard to remove & replace.
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Mine has a strange issue. 1990 xlt 2.9L manual 4x4. When first start of the day, after start I push accelerator and it has a hesitation like not getting fuel. Where start?
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I've got a 1990 ford ranger 4.0 auto trans front transmission seal went bad, I've got everything unbolted abs ready to come put but the trans won't come over top of the front cross member, what could be the problem on why it won't come out?
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We have a 1990 Ford Ranger - 2WD 4cyl - sometimes when we try to start it, it will not kick over the final time for several tries. When it finally catches the voltage gauge will flicker and jump around. When the gauge flickers, the truck will shut off...then the same issue with trying to start it again. Some days it runs just fine and others it will stall out 3-5 times in a 15-20 minute drive. We have been told it's the DIS Module OR the Crankshaft Position Sensor OR the Voltage Regulator OR .....
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1990 Ranger 2.3 liter. Need to replace washer pump, do I need to pull the reservoir to do this?
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Is there something that would make the 3 cylinders on the drivers side of a 1990 2.9l not fire? I have spark to the plugs and pressure/fuel at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. The passenger side cylinders are firing fine and the engine runs (roughly) on these 3 cylinders. Truck was running just fine, then all of a sudden, drivers side is dead. Is there a fuse or something that controls these three fuel injectors?
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My 1990 4.0 refuses to start when the air temperature outside is at approx 40 degrees or below. It will crank until the battery runs dead if I let it. At approx 50 degrees farenheit the truck takes forever to start and always backfires out of the tailpipe and intake manifold (blowing off a hose on the vacuum tree) before it starts. If I can get it to backfire, it will start eventually. If it does not backfire, then I can run the battery dead and the truck still refuses to start. This condition has grown from a little problem to a huge problem over the past 6 months. Here is what I have done so far, including regular maintenance items.......
KOEO test checked OK
KOER test returned code 77 multiple times (TPS).
Replaced Throttle pos. sensor
Replace Idle air bypass valve
Subsequent KOER test came back with no more codes except 11 - OK
Load tested battery
Made new heavy gauge battery cables for + and -
New plugs, wires
newer starter
Changed coil pack for known good one off my explorer
Visually inspected hoses for vacuum leaks, replaced 1 cracked hose
1990 Ranger ext cab 4X2 4.0L, K&N air filter in stock airbox, Pacesetter headers, single 2 1/2" exhaust, stock cat no muffler, 260K on truck, 104K on good used engine from my 1994 Explorer. Purchased Ranger brand new in 1990. A4LD w/ shift kit.
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]I recently bought a 1990 ford ranger with a 2.9 @187,000 miles. That being said I went through and changed a few vacuum lines, the oil, air filter, pcv/grommet, and fuel filter.
The problem is it hates to start. I could crank on it for 10 seconds and not a single thing. Sometimes if i turn the key to the off position, wait a second, and try again, Ill get the truck to fire. When it does fire up it just reeks of the lean exhaust. It also gives me some hesitation when I rev it. I did a fuel pressure test (KOEO) last night and it gave me 32 psi and within a minute the needle fell to about 25 psi. I hear the fuel pump run for only 2-3 seconds too.
I've already pulled the MAF off and cleaned it, replaced the TPS, and did a fuel pressure test. The fuel filter is brand new
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