Ford - Radiators - Explorersporttrac :: Steam Comes Pouring Out Of Hood From Footwell Area
Nov 25, 2011
When car is stopped after driving for awhile, steam comes pouring out of hood on passenger side near windshield. Opened the hood and steam was coming from firewall area, not from radiator. Mechanic replaced thermostat etc. for heater core but stll have steam problem. Temperature gauge reads normal and heater doesn't work. It tastes like antifreeze is getting into passenger compartment and it fogs up the windshield.Radiator cap is not even warm. Sounds like antifreeze is not flowing through the radiator.
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Had numerous problems the last 9 months, and we've replaced the thermostat, water pump, clutch fan, flushed radiator. Last week we thought the heater core had died (air blowing cold, but gauge not indicating any overheating). But it just need flushing, had a clog. Has been kicking out the heat ever since.
What is bothering me though is that the temp gauge always seems to be right at the C, even after driving for a while. Before the van had issues, it stayed right between N and O.
Then this morning, I hear a loud pop, smell horrible burning antifreeze and smoke/steam pouring out from the hood (I managed to park it immediately, had just dropped son off at school). After I'm parked, all the antifreeze puddles underneath.
So hubby comes, and we see that the top radiator hose has blown, with a lovely crack/hole from one side to the other. Now, that hose was old, and probably was a big part of the problem.
We fixed it, and I just drove it again, but I am watching the gauge. And the van is blowing nice, HOT air from the heater. But the gauge is staying right at the C. Used to run between N and O. It is jumpy...not jumping towards hot, but little jumps...below the C, above the C, up to the N, back down to C...it just seems strange to me; it doesn't go past the N at all and spends most of its time at or below the C.
I guess I am wondering if there is any other reason why the hose could've blown this morning besides it being old and worn out....for example, excess heat and pressure building up that for some reason is not registering on the temp gauge? It's making me nervous. Is there something else besides the thermostat that could cause erratic temp gauge or cause gauge not to show me the true engine temp?
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I just received this car as a freebie but it has come with an issue or two. The most pressing is a cooling issue. They gave it to me with the words, "The radiator leaks". Upon some testing this doesn't seem to be the whole picture.
1) If I fill the radiator up, leave the car parked over night, the next morning the radiator is still full. so I assume it is leaking from steam venting or from something else.
2) The car overheats very fast when the AC is on and the vehicle is stopped. Within about 10 minutes it went through every drop in the radiator.
3) When driving with the AC fan on medium speed, it can go a solid 30-45 minutes with no issue.
4) If I turn the AC fan on to high it takes a matter of minutes for it to begin to over heat.
A friend mentioned something about a weeper valve? I know very little about cars. So if there was any insight as to what it may be that would be excellent.
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My '96 Honda Accord started smoking from under the hood as I pulled into my garage today. Upon closer inspection it seems like it was steam, not smoke, and it came from a crack in what I assume was some portion of my coolant line. The crack is in a solid, plastic tube that runs right along the fore-most part of the car, right along where the latch to unlock the hood. There is an escape valve that warns not to open it while the engine is hot because of the coolant that will be under pressure, hence the supposition that it is leaking heated coolant.
Obviously this needs to be fixed. So I have a few questions.What could have caused the crack?Is there a way to repair the crack without replacing the part?How serious if this / How far can I get away with driving?
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I recently took my 2011 5.0L F-150 on a 1,000 mile round trip threw the mountains of New Mexico and back home. Upon arriving home the truck was pretty dirty so I decided to run it through the car wash real quick. This particular car wash was one of those without brushes, were it just sprays water and soap on the car the rinses it clean and blow drys it as you drive out.
I noticed that after a few seconds of water spraying on my hood there was the low rolling steam coming right out of the front grill. I quickly checked all my gauges and they showed that nothing was overheating or anything like that, but I still was worried. So when the wash was over I pulled into the parking lot and popped the hood. I also noticed that steam continued for a few seconds as rolled threw the parking lot, it however stopped before I was able to get out and open the hood so I was unable to locate its source.
Upon opening the hood I found nothing that looked outta place or anything like that, abiet the engine itself was a little dusty, but that was all. Could it just have been water touching the cold manifold or something? Overall the truck hasn't been driving any differently, so that eases my mind a little.
This is cause for a little bit of concern for me, as I have never had this happen with either of the two Trucks I owned before this one. For the record my truck now has 7,000 miles on the dot on it.
Here's a Video clip of an Ecoboost F-150 ''Not My Truck'' doing the excat same thing that mine did.
2011 Ford F150 EcoBoost Looks Like Its On Fire - YouTube .....
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Was driving my 1992, 3.0 and all of a sudden noticed temperature gauge go to extreme hot, steam from hood and engine stalls. Upon inspection, the heater hose blew out, and van does not start even the next day, plus I think the starter sound different (faster). Saw spark at plug wire, smell gas, and did a quick compression with my thumb on #1, and felt air.
Towed it to the mechanic and within 5-10 minutes told me it was a cracked engine, I was not there but he stated he did a compression test. Is he correct, or can it be a timing chain problem?
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I have a 2007 Honda Odyssey touring model. Recently I had it serviced at the Honda dealership. In addition to my requested front end alignment and oil and filter change, they talked me into a radiator flush, fuel inj. service, air filter replacements and battery service. I drove the car home after wards even filling up with gas before going home. This drive was about 55 miles. I never noticed any problems. The next day, I left for Montghomery AL towing a trailer with a motorcycle trike on it. We stopped for lunch and continued. The car suddenly started making a grinding noise from engine compartment and suddenly white smoke started coming out from the hood. I immediately pulled over and we got out of the car for fear of fire. This was the first time I had any indication of a problem.
After a short time, I opened the hood to see what was wrong and noticed that the radiator cap was sitting upside down next to opening. I had the vehicle towed to Chattanooga where I was told there was serious damage to the engine. I had them repair it (they were an AAA approved towing and repair shop). I also took pictures of the engine compartment. I went back to the dealership and asked to be reembursed for my expenses and the cost of repairs and the owner refused. He said he didn't believe they left the cap off and since he started out in the service department he didn't believe the car could even go that far without overheating. My question is: Is it possible for a 2007 Honda Odyssey to travel approximately 220 miles over two days before overheating and wrecking the engine if the radiator cap was left off and/or if no fluid was even added and the radiator cap was left off?
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Got my joe z exhaust put in today. After getting it installed i was obviously getting on the car to see how it sounds.. I came to a stop and smelled that sulfur smell that people normally do when getting on their engines but also noticed some smoke/steam seeping out from under the back of my hood. No overheating though. Immediately got alarmed and shut off the car. Popped the hood and everything was fine. No smoke at all. Turned it back on and all was normal and drove the car again and there was nothing.
What could this be? something serious i hope not. i do not drive me car hard at all. its got almost 14k and changed the oil at 10k. this has never happened before. It was hot today though like 90+ ... Maybe it was just from driving it hard?
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So the wife's 08 Mountaineer 4.6 likes coolant. None in the crank case. I suspect head gasket, since I can smell it a bit in the exhaust, but I have also noticed steam coming from the drivers side firewall area, but can't see anything. If it is head gaskets, am I pulling the engine? If I have to pull the engine.
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So my son has a 93 Saab... my wife was driving it home the other day and one of the radiator hoses burst, steam rolled out from under the hood and the car died. She had no idea what had happened so she called my brother and they pushed it into a nearby driveway till I could look at it. The next day I found the busted hose and replaced it, but the car still will not start? We pulled it home with my truck and a chain.
Of coarse on that car the distributor cap is right above the hose that burst so I assumed water got into the cap. I took off the distributor cap and though it seemed mostly dry I wiped it out anyway and let it air dry for a while. After putting it back together it still will not start? What to do next or what to try?
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I'm hearing something that sounds like a squeaky hamster wheel sound from the front passenger footwell area. It often sounds like there's a trickling sound as well. What's wrong - is this normal? (Its fairly loud at times). It seems to correlate with cold weather.
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I have a 2005 SC that was passed down from my mom, so don't know that much about it.
Last week it overheated with steam coming out of the front area. . . . shop said my radiator had a crack, but that i probably overheated the engine and that they would need to rework it all . . . the car is still at their shop, but was wondering if i am better off just getting rid of this one or buying another one.
I asked them for a cost est. they said that they would have to open up the engine before they could tell me that, but want to charge me to do that.
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My girlfriend has a 2004 Toyota Camry SE, 2.4, 4 cly, with 198k miles. All maintenance has been done per book guidance since she has owned the car. The other day the car began running really rough on her way home. as soon as she put it into park and lowered rpm the car stalled out. temperature gauge did not read hot, but noticed white steam comes from hood when i seen she pulled up, Opened hood let cool down and coolant looked nasty as heck. So I did coolant flush and replaced the thermostat as per advised from parts store. Did not make a difference because during test drive, half mile down the road, car temperature gauge was reading hot. Shut the car down waited 10 to 15 minutes and drove back home.
Altogether drove roughly 10 miles max in hot condition is stop and cool down and go again mode. Also note, this is the first time using a forum of this sort. Along with, I'm not a mechanic as some are, but I know my way around a tool box no problems. I'm on the verge of just ordering new water pump, belts, fans, fan relays switches, radiator and all since I'm going to be in there to fix it anyways.
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So for the past week or so, I've been having problems with my cooling system. (May or may not be related to my air valve stuck open code, just thought I'd mention it.) First thing that drew my attention to the problem was smoke (or steam) coming from under the hood, I let the car cool off, and drove home. During this time I also noticed the heat stopped working. I went to get some coolant in another car and filled it up. Smoke went away, and heat started working again.
Later the same day I checked the reservoir and it looked low so I figured the radiator sucked all the coolant up, so I refilled the resivoir tank. I spilled a nice amount when doing that, and the steam came back. It cooled down again and no more steam, figured it burnt off. The next few mornings on my first drive of the day ONLY, I saw steam. Thought it was the condensation mixing with the leftover coolant that I spilled since it didn't happen at all until the next morning.
Today was the first time it started steaming at night, and the heat stopped working again, even though the reservoir level was mostly full. I let the car cool down, and then I added more coolant and the heat started working again, no more steam either. Looked under the hood once I got home, abt a 20 min drive, resivoir was nearly empty even though car was still warm. No visible leaks on the smaller reservoir hose but there are puddles under the hood.
I've read it could be a leak of course, but also the Cap could be preventing the right pressure to suck fluid back in radiator after expanding into the surge tank, or something causing the tank to boil over....
Car is a 2013 Chevy Sonic with 68,000 miles. Coolant has never been drained/refilled since I bought the car new in 2013.
[IMG] ....
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I have a major coolant leak in my '99 Dodge Intrepid. I had both top and bottom housing kits replaced over the summer and for the last month I've been having to add coolant about every 3 days to every day now. Today coming home, my car started to steam from underneath the hood and temperature gauge was rising on the hotter side while I was at the stoplight. When I got home I checked the water pump and it was empty. Not in a financial point to have this fixed right away, am wanting a temporary solution for a couple of weeks to get by before I can get it in the shop.
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2002 F250 SD 5.4 V8 here....cruise control doesn't work!!
-I've checked fuses 27 and 34. Good.
-I've done the self test. All lights flash with no codes given.
-I've replaced the pressure switch at the end of the brake manifold. All good.
-Horn works.
-No ABS lights or check engine lights on.
When I press the ON then SET...the guage illuminates on the dash and there's a slight 'thump' from what seems to be the area of the cruise control box under the hood (I'm driving so I'm assuming it's it).
Am I missing something here?? Can it be anything other than the box itself?
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My trusty old Sport Trac has over 100k miles now and over the last year or so, the check engine light keeps coming on with bogus error codes. After reset, it will soon come on again with a different error code. Ever heard of this?
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I noticed that I was leaving a trail of water as pulled into the driveway. I thought it might be coolant, but it turns-out that an area under the hood had filled-up with water. It was the area right in front of the windshield, holding the battery. There was a pool of water there, as wide as the car, and about 6 inches deep! It came right up to the brake fluid reservoir. I assume that there's a drain hose from this area somewhere that's plugged?
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Ever since day one with my new MKVII GTI, there has been a consistent metallic (tinny - like the sound of someone shaking a soda can with the tab inside) coming from what seems like the passenger side footwells. This rattle can only be heard at low RPM. I can hear it most around 2,000 RPM, and I can force it to happen by applying light pressure to the gas peddle. I don't know if the rattle doesn't happen at higher RPM, or if I just can't hear it over the engine and the typical road noise. The rattle is pretty consistent in tempo.
I've done some research, but can't determine if it's the waste gate actuator, fuel lines, or something else. I'm new to maintaining cars properly and I'm not the most mechanically savvy person, but I want to learn. So, I haven't tried to locate the actuator because I don't know where to start and I haven't tried to "tie down" the fuel lines because I'm not comfortable doing this fix on my own.
I've taken the car to the dealership once, and I was told that the waste gate actuator doesn't even exist on the MKVII. Interestingly, two different techs told me this. They deny that the actuator is even real, much less causing any problems. I suppose it could also be the armrest, as some people say it tends to sound like it's coming from the passenger side.
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with a flashing o/d light.
I have a 02 Ford Explorer Sport Trac. V6 4.0L with a 5R55E transmission. About 210,000 miles.
A few weeks ago after a trip i discovered i had a coolant leak. It took me a couple of days to figure out that it was the lower thermostat housing. Fixed that and I thought my troubles were over. WRONG.
A few days later the O/D light started flashing and I got to enjoy the wonderful "Limp Mode". The problem only showed up when I had to slow down for a stop. As soon as I started to go again and it went to shift into second (or overdrive 1st) the o/d would start flashing and hello "limp mode".
I got on the web and started reading. I ended up replacing the speed sensor (in the rear differential), the crankshaft sensor, and readjusted the bands with no luck. I would have to shut the truck off at every stop sign/red light just to avoid "limp mode".
Last week I went to a friends shop to have them change the oil and we started talking about the problem. I got him to flush the transmission fluid and look at the codes.
He got the following codes: P0731, P0732, P0733, and P0734. Incorrect gear ration 1 - 4. He cleared them and nothing popped back up.
That cleared up most of the problems.
Same scenario as before but only after I reach 40-50 mph. If I'm just in city traffic it doesn't pop up. And if I'm driving around with no stop signs/red lights it won't reappear. But if i get up to 40-50 mph and have to complete stop, as soon as I take off again and it shifts into that second gear (or sometimes 3rd gear) it will go into "limp mode".
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I have an 2007 ES350, midnight blue in color. Paint peeling off the hood and trunk area?
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