I have a 2003 Mustang. The front brakes are new, and back brakes are OK. When I stop at a stop light, and depress the brake pedal firmly, the car continues to creep forward. I have to put it in neutral or park to get the car to a standstill.
View 10 Replies'15 Gs350 FSport. 4K miles. I have been able to replicate this issue, and won't have time to bring it into shop until next week.
I am at a stop light after driving for a bit. Car in drive obviously, foot on brake. If I press the brake very firmly, almost to where it hits the floor board, the slip indicator light comes on and flashes, and call stalls (or goes into idle). I am forced to shift car into park, and then shift back into drive. Or I have to turn car off, and back on again.
What was going on - I was reaching over to the passenger seat while at a stopped light and pressed down the brake pretty hard by accident. But I am now able to replicate it.
2001 Ex limited 4x2 w/50k miles-- The parking brake pedal will not depress...at all....not even a millimeter. Feels like it is "locked".
View 2 RepliesI have a sonata 2009 automatic, I bought it last week and I am really happy with it, but I have one doubt.
When I am driving down hill, if I put the gear in R mode and does not use brake, the car will roll down the hill, vise verse I am driving up hill (car stopped, gear on D, no brake used) the car will roll down.
I know from previous experience that automatic cars should stand still / move forward if in D/ move backward if in R even if I am driving downhill / uphill.
is that mean there is a problem in my gear?
Having an issue with my brake pedal. When the car sits for long periods of time, usually overnight, the brake pedal is extremely hard to depress. I have to really press down hard in order to start the ignition. Took it into my dealership, and they actually said there was a TSB issued for something to do with the brakes. Well, evidently, they fixed it, but the issue came back almost immediately, only this time it's worse. The brake pedal firms up after 3-4 hours of sitting.
Brakes feel fine once the ignition is turned on. I was told there's no issue with driving it, but I'm not so sure I trust what I was told.
I've been having a randomly recurring problem with my 2004 Hyundai Elantra for several months now. I'll be driving along and will notice that my brake pedal won't depress. When I step off of the accelerator, it is like the brakes are already engaged. Eventually, the brake pedal won't depress at all and the car acts like the brakes are fully engaged. Sometimes I can let it sit for an hour or several hours and the brakes will readjust and I can move again. So far I have replaced both calipers, rotors, 2 brake hoses and the master cylinder, but I am still having this problem. My mechanic is flummoxed. Any time I have the car towed in, the brakes release by the time it arrives and he has no problem to observe.
View 3 RepliesSo I noticed this has happened a few times.. If I press on the brake pedal too hard, the indicator light will come on and then turn off a few moments after I depress the brake pedal. This has happened when the car is stationary as well as when I was coming to a stop, it's happened maybe 5 times since I picked the car up a few weeks ago. Is this normal behavior or an indication of a problem? Just an FYI, I'm not talking about when the indicators light up when first starting the car.. This is tied strictly to pressing the brake pedal hard.
View 8 RepliesI have an issue that i have been trying to resolve. When i depress the brake lightly to a stop, the pedal pulsates. But if I depress a little harder it pulsates initially midway down and then it stops as i press harder to brake. (I hope this is easy to understand). so... press lightly, pulsates until I reach a stop. press firmly, pulsates briefly, then no pulsation until i reach a stop.
I have pretty much replaced everything. Calipers, rotors, pads, lnes, fluid, hardware. lugs are torqued to 100ftlbs.
Also the caliper is not sticking the problem persists even after I replaced the calipers. I am left at a total loss here. I cant think of anything else. One thing that i noticed is, the LUGS are really hot to the touch after driving it for 15 min or so.
2007 Accent pedal won't depress. Bearing making noise for a few months. Is tranny snout toast or is it fixable?
View 2 RepliesSo - I'm sitting at my VW dealership, hoping that their can figure out why I'm getting a high pitched, miserable squealing sound, every time I depress my brake pedal. It's metallic sounding, and with the history of brake issues I've had in owning other VW models, I just figured it was the brake pads they use. Sounds like their tech believes it is an issue with the tires??? I've got an 04 Phaeton with roughly 38K miles on it - and it's supposedly "certified"....
View 6 RepliesNew 2013 Elantra owner here.. When initially depressing the brake pedal lightly (before the brake pads engage, usually in stop-and-go traffic), I can feel a rubbing sensation coming from somewhere in the pedal assembly. If it's quiet, I can also hear a groaning sound. This definitely isn't a pad/rotor issue, rather something closer to the pedal itself and inside or near the cabin.
Took it to the dealership and after some coaxing and insistence that it wasn't "normal," they finally said it was the brake switch and replaced it. Seemed to alleviate the problem for a week or so, but now it's back!
I have a 2003 Prius that I have had about 4 years. It has under 80,000 miles on it and I have the Ecrostech Scanner which I have had for about 3 years. For the time I have had the Ecrostech I have noticed times when the regenerative braking was not working when I would depress the brake pedal. I understand the regen does not work from about 7 mph and below but my system often does not work even when it is above that speed. I have not been able to force it into regen. It seems to have a mind of its own as in perhaps a faulty ecu.
View 7 RepliesHave an 07 gs350 awd and lately the pedal feels stiff and doesn't depress all the way down at startup. Sometimes the steering wheel will go back up as if I have just stopped the car and occasionally I will get the message on the dashboard that I need to press the brake pedal at startup even though I am doing that. Dealership claims they can't duplicate problem and don't know what it could be.
View 3 Replies2001 2.0
251,xxx km
Noticed here lately that my brake pedal is depressing further, and can go to the floor if I press it hard enough.
If I press the pedal quick (panic stop) it engages quickly and in the correct spot (I can feel the front tires almost lock up) then it depresses more almost to the floor. the brakes still work perfect however.
What should I try first?
I use my hand brake, and have pumped the brakes and pulled the handbrake to set the rear pistons in place.
I replaced the two rear calipers about a year and a half ago and bled them obviously. Have not bled the front brakes and will do that, but was just looking for more insight, and common problems, vacuum leak, etc.
Reservoir is full as well, and no brake line leaks that I know of.
The car is a 2000 Intrigue with 3.5L engine.
The problem is: about once a month the gas pedal won't go down when trying to move forward after the car has come to a full stop. Feels like I'm stepping on a rock when I step on the pedal. Then I tap on the pedal with my foot a few times and the pedal will go down smoothly, car accelerates and everything feels normal until it happens again.
Where to look for the interference if that is what it is? Also,I tried to cause this hard pedal to happen & have been unable to do so.
My question is this...when my foot makes contact with the brake pedal there is about a quarter or half inch of "space" where I can push the pedal forward before you can feel whatever the pedal pushes against make contact and begin applying braking.
This dead space area will always activate the brake lighting but until you reach that next part under the dash somewhere no braking occurs.
I am quite used to driving my 2010 and this doesn't occur....can not remember if the 99 has always done that and i just realized it or if this is a new issue.
Brakes and stops great with and without load. No issues otherwise. Pedal pops out quickly and normally when taking your foot off.
I have a 1966 Ford Mustang 2 + 2 (289 cu. in.) V8 with four barrel carburetor. It has more than 170K miles on it. It starts right away, but when I shift the automatic transmission to reverse or forward it dies out every time. I changed the fuel pump and the fuel filter, but the problem persists. I have had this car for almost 46 years now and I cannot bear to part with it.
View 2 RepliesThis is unusual. After driving into town for new tires, the clutch pedal was hard and I could not depress it after the tire tech parked the truck. It did finally depress with a pop, though the pedal functioned there after the clutch did not function properly.
At times it seemed to be ok at other times it seemed weak. I stopped by Autozone and checked the fluid, seemed low and I added some. Continued home not completely confident that I would make it. Had to make one stop along the way.
Once again the clutch pedal was stuck at the top and would not depress. I finally slid the safety switch up the clutch shaft to start the truck, when the engine started the pedal depressed. I was able to continue home but the clutch is not functioning properly.
Last week my brake pedal started going to the floor when I stopped, it still stopped and felt fine on the top half of the pedal travel but then it would just slowly fade to the floor. I took it to a local shop and they said the master cylinder was leaking internally and my rear brakes were shot. I have 75,000 miles and the rear brakes were original so I told them to fix it. This is basically what I expected it to be.
They kept thinking they were getting defective master cylinders but after the two Napa parts and two Carquest parts they realized they misdiagnosed it and said I needed to take it to the dealership. I paid for the rear brake job since it needed done anyways and have an appointment for next week at the dealership. What might be causing the problem? I see no brake fluid leaks, no vacuum leaks, the booster was replaced 25,000 miles ago due to noise, no ABS light on, no CEL on, no other symptoms.
Ok so I had this creaking noise at first when I press n depress the gas pedal (how normal driving should be) and I sprayed some WD40 and now the noise is gone, but it becomes kind of sticky when pressing and depressing.
It's like when u rub ur finger on a glass window back and forth, there is time when it catches ur finger (sticks) before u can move it the opposite way, it's not smooth as it used to be (my other camrys are smooth).
When pressing a little, then a little more, it has that sticky feel, same thing when depressing the pedal. That's the best I can explain it and it is really noticeable when I'm stuck in traffic.
Do u think I have a bad pedal or some white lithium grease will take care of this?
I just replaced pads and rotors on my 2000 Passat GLX. Everything went fine, i got done, pumped the pedal 10-15 times, took it for a test drive. When I depress the pedal, it goes all the way to the floor, the car pulls right, then left, and slowly stops. At this point, if I hit the brakes again, it feels normal.
I figured it just needed a few minutes, I drove it for about 45 minutes, and it never got any better. I have changed the brakes several times before and never seen anything like this before.