Ford - Mustang :: Coolant Spill Out When Take Off The Radiator Cap On Cold Engine
Aug 17, 2016
I got a 2002 mustang v6 and I hadn't flushed the coolant since 5 years ago so I decided to take off the radiator cap off too check the status of the coolant. As I took the cap off, coolant started to slowly spill out of it so I quickly put the cap right on. What causing this? My car was already cooled down and it can't be a head gasket problem cause I don't see white smoke. And I don't see any leaks from hoses and water pump . I park my car outside could it be the sun heating it up and making the coolant flowing out when I take the cap off? What causing this?
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I have a 2006 Ford Mustang V6. Recently after driving and turning the car off the coolant has been spilling out through the cap of the coolant reservoir. The car drives fine and does not overheat so it appears the cooling system works while driving. I have not identified any visible leaks and the heat inside the car works. I have replaced the coolant reservoir cap, thermostat, and thermostat casing.
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2007, 4.0L, Explorer, 113,000 mi. Week ago noticed coolant expansion tank empty while hot and cold. Looked inside ex. tank and looked like it had not seen any action in a while. Looked inside radiator and coolant level was about 1 inch to 1.5 inches below bottom of rad. cap would be...approx. level with rad. seam, where black plastic top of rad. attaches to metal portion of rad. I filled expan. tank to "cold fill" line. Kept an eye on it while doing light, around town driving. The expan. tank level (cold-fill) didn't change.
Friday, my wife returned from work (30 mi., interstate drive). After being parked for 45 mins, went out to find fluid puddle at very front of car. Expansion tank was empty. Looked in radiator, and it was about one inch to inch and a half below bottom of rad cap...about level with rad seam, where the black plastic top is attached to metal. I topped off the rad. this time, along with filling expan. tank to cold-fill line. Turn car on, and after warming up coolant starting coming out from what appeared to be the seam at the top of the rad., where the black plastic portion meets the metal part of the rad.
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2004 4.6 V8 Trition ,two wheel drive, STX Pickup. By removing the bottom radiator hose, will that allow all engine coolant to be drained from engine? If not, about how much coolant will remain in the engine in terms of quarts or percentage of total vehicle coolant capacity?
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A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
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I drove an Avante 09. Recently, my car was breakdown due to engine overheated, as radiator coolant is dry out and noticed there is a hole in in the pipe and hence cause leakage in the system. As the breakdown was happened in johor bahru, I have no choice but towed my car to hyundai msia dealer workshop in JB. However, after they check, they refuse to repair it due to the reason they do not have the spare parts, as my version is 1600cc and msia version is 2000cc.
Thereafter, I towed my car to the workshop in JB, recommend by my friend in JB. After they checking, the said my engine block is made of aluminum, very easy get out of shape when overheated. They say by changing the headset parts will not completely solved the problem, said to completely solve the issue must changed the engine block. To me, by changing the engine block equivalent changing the whole engine, am i correct?
Any bro here facing engine overheated due to dry out of coolant? Can cause such a big issue? In fact I am a bit doubt on their diagnosis. I don't really think the overheat will cause the engine block damage.
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I was flushing the radiator on my 1995 V6, 3 Liter, 5 speed. And absent mindedly, I fired up the engine for a minute to "flush" it out, but hadn't put the water/flush in it yet.
Now, the check engine light is on, it idles at about 2000 RPMs and spits smoke. I haven't run it more than 5 minutes total like this. I refilled the radiator, fired it up, no better. I drained that and tried again, but still no better.
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I have a 2006 v6 ford mustang and just developed this problem yesterday.
When I drive the car, the temp guage stay right in the middle, but when I park I get white smoke come from under the hood. I popped the hood and saw coolant leaking from where the top radiator hose meets the engine block. This was producing the smoke. When I checked the hoses, the top hose was hot and hard, the bottom hose was cool and soft.
Extra info:1. I did not touch the radiator to see if there were cool or warm spots2. The overflow bottle looked empty or close to it, but the engine was still hot from driving to work
Thinking this could be one of the following:
1. bad thermostat
2. clogged radiator
3. Air bubble somewhere blocking the coolant flow
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I have a 95 Ford mustang GT. When it is cold outside (Below 40 ish) it starts for about 1 second, dies abd the second time starts fine. has check engine light for lean exhaust. vacume pressure fine and been using injector cleaner but no improvement. replaced spark plug/ wires pcv valve.
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When the a/c fan is on any setting other than the highest setting the air comes out cold. When the fan is set to the highest setting, it only comes out warm. This happens regardless of a/c or max a/c setting, regardless of fresh or recirculated air, and regardless of car speed. (2005 Mustang GT)
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So roughly 2 months ago my ac wasnt blowing cold anymore and it was the evaporator, so i got a new one put in and recharged and it blows 50 degrees or colder now and it still blew that cold today. But today i heard a noise coming from the engine, so i inspected it and saw the compressor was turning on and off which it was doing right before i got it fixed 2 months ago, so I know its not the compressor but i know that's probably gonna go soon to. now its getting to winter so I don't need the ac.
Everything else is working perfect never had any problems with the car other then the ac, it does get used a lot cause but it never gets pushed passed level 2 out of 4. it has 90k on it and i was wondering if this is a major repair to just let it go and sell it for a reasonable price and pick up another car? or just fix it and hope another problem does not arise in 2 months. Like i said ive never had any problems with it before other then the ac. it still runs great and i can still floor it and she responds almost like new.
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Simple question: Is it possible that battery problem/corrosion in battery cables would allow car to crank but not start on first try when cold? (Car normally starts on 2nd or 3rd try). I've read some places that if car cranks its not a battery problem but I'm not convinced.
Background:I have a 98 Ford Mustang (approx 140,000 miles) that occasionally has trouble starting. Car normally takes 2 to 3 tries to start first thing in the morning or if it has been sitting for a while. It always cranks but doesn't turn over. I had it in the auto repair shop, they said it had to do with IAC valve being stuck open. They recommended to replace throttle air by-pass valve. The repair was done and when I came to pick up the car I heard it take three tries to start before they brought it to me from the back. I asked about it, so the service advisor said he would go and talk to the tech, he said he talked to the tech and that there was a lot of carbon that he had cleaned out and maybe remaining carbon in the system caused problem, I got the idea that they seemed to think everything was fine if I had any problems I could bring it back. The car became even harder to start, now taking up to 8 tries. I brought it back and they said that the new IAC had to be adjusted to allow more air. I picked up the car, they said it was fine, but now it still takes 2 to 3 tries to start it first thing in the morning.
In the past, I have had trouble with battery and battery terminal corrosion, have had new terminal ends put on my battery a few times, last time was probably about 6 months ago. Terminal ends look very corroded again. I'm thinking about just asking them to replace the battery cables and see what happens.
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AC works, but only drops temp by 15 degrees. Pressures 40/150 after adding some 134a.
Compressor runs continuously at idle. (I don't know if this is correct or not.)
Not sure what the issue is.
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Both my radiator fans run all the time, even if the engine is cold. Soon as I fire it up, even if it's 0 degrees, they are running. To be clear, as expected, the fans do not run if the car is off.
Based on these symptoms, what components could be the culprit?
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I have a 2011 Mustang base with the V-6 engine and 6 speed transmission. It is my summer car, getting fewer than 3,000 miles on it per year. I take very good care of it. My question is what is the mechanical knocking noise I am hearing on cold starts? It continues for about 5 minutes until the engine is fully warm, then stops. The noise comes from the valve cover area. It clearly is a noise that cycles with the movement of internal parts. Is it normal or could be something serious. The car only has 10,000 miles on it (it was sold in 2010 as a 2011 model, so it is 5 years old now).
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1999 E350 V10 van, 120,000 miles. I'm the second owner so history unknown.
After driving this past Saturday noticed coolant on the pavement when I parked. Checking inside I found coolant all along the top of the radiator where the clips secure the plastic tank/cover.
Reserve was half full where I keep it. Running the van while parked and the temp was less than mid range. Can I assume the radiator is shot?
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My 94 ford escort LX 1.9L is currently suffering from coolant loss. However I have not seen any drips anywhere from under the hood and the floor mats in car seem to be dry. The overflow tank is always full to fill line but after I drive it for a day after refilling the radiator back up cause its half empty for some strange reason and then come home for the day and the next morning its half empty again.
As a side note when I first start the car it runs fine but then I eventually notice a strange odor that smells like burning coolant and something else mixed to it thru the vents in the car even without heater on. The Radiator cap has replaced due to the original was leaking out coolant from under the seal and the heater works fine. I've have however been thinking lately that maybe there is leak some where in-between the firewall and heater core possibly but the floor carpet seems to be dry.
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Last week during a hot/long day on the road, my engine temp gauge started fluctuating between 1/2 and almost 7/8 on the gauge. The weird thing was that it was fairly stable most of the time, but every 10 minutes or so, it would heat up, and spend bout 15 seconds at the high mark before dropping down again. It didn't seem to be related to rpm, A/C operation, or driving intensity. When I got home, and let it cool down, I checked the coolant level. I couldn't see any coolant in the radiator, but the expansion tank was nearly full. I guess the low coolant level can explain the symptoms above, but I can't figure out what is happening to the coolant.
I took the car to a mechanic and had a pressure test, which didn't show any leakage. I had a new thermostat and radiator cap installed. They flushed the system, and tested the hose between the expansion tank and radiator. After driving the car home, the coolant in the radiator had already dropped to the point where I couldn't see it, and the expansion tank was 3/4 full. Now, I am planning to keep track of the levels of both reservoirs (and refilling the radiator of course) to see if the fluid is leaking, or if it is just not returning from the expansion tank. Hopefully this bit of knowledge should locate the problem.
The successful pressure test leads me to believe that it isn't leaking externally. However, I'm wondering if there is a small enough leak that wouldn't be detected by the pressure test, but is significant enough that it would allow air in when the engine cools instead of pulling the fluid back from the expansion tank.
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I start the car, with AC on, radiator fan starts and within a few minutes the engine radiator fan stops working, idles rough since the AC compressor pump keeps cycling on and off and engine starts to overheat. After shutting down I check the engine cooling fan fuse and it sure enough is blown.
How do I determine as to where the short is? Is the short in the wiring somewhere or can the actual motor short out?
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I am in the middle of a several thousand mile road trip, and I am with family in Utah when this evening I noticed a puddle under my 6.0 Excursion.
Coolant leak? - YouTube
The fluid does not smell like typical coolant, but from the location of the drip, I cant think of it being anything else.
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Today while I was working I walked back to my truck after finishing the job and saw a red fluid leaking from behind the front bumper, I crawled underneath and saw that it was leaking from somewhere between the plastic cover for the fan and the radiator but I couldn't find exactly where it was coming from, I drove 30 miles before I got to the job site with my ac on, and my ac was making a noise that seemed like a whirling noise but I kinda brushed it off as the condenser going bad or whatever. After I found my truck leaking I decided to drive 20 miles to the next job site but this time I left the ac off and nothing happened the temperature gauge didn't even go up, I checked underneath when I finished driving and there was no more coolant leaking from the radiator. I drove it an additional 50 miles before I got home and still no leaks. Could the bad ac system cause coolant to leak? I have a 2000 excursion 5.4L V8
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