Ford - Mustang :: 2007 - Car Won't Go Over 3800 RPM / Error Codes Detected
May 18, 2012
I bought a gorgeous red 4.0L V-6 Mustang very cheap last week because it needed a clutch. I would not even pull the car. Little did I know that the clutch kit, including the slave cylinder and flywheel, was over $600. (But that's another story.)
The car runs now, but will not go over 3800 RPM in any gear. It had NINE codes, which they cleared. I was told that they primarily pointed to the MAF sensor. I cleaned it with the recommended aerosol. I have driven it 20 miles, and the MIL has not returned, but the little wrench symbol has. The Manual says to take it to the dealer (of course). The car seems to run fairly well, with the exception of the low rev limit. It is a "fly by wire" set up, with electronic throttle.
The cleared codes were P0102, P0113, P0135, P0141, P0155, P0161, P0403, P0443, and P0446. They actually repeated on Autozone's scanner. (My six year old Actron won't link to this car for some reason.
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So on monday the following error codes appeared on my car. What needs to be replaced off the error codes?
P0300Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected2014-02-04 13:48:29
P0301Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected2014-02-04 13:48:29
P2030No Description Available2014-02-04 13:48:29
P3030No Description Available2014-02-04 13:48:29
C0033No Description Available2014-02-04 13:48:29
P0603Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error2014-02-04 13:48:29
C1400No Description Available2014-02-04 13:48:29
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My wife and I received her father's 2002 F150 4.2 5 speed 2 wheel drive truck after his passing. He purchased new plug wires and wanted to replace them. So, this weekend I put in new plugs, plug wires, changed the air filter, and changed the oil and filter. Started up and ran really rough. Threw my code reader on after taking it around the block and found the following codes...
P0316 Misfire detected in first 1000 revs,
P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire,
P0305 Cylinder 5 misfire,
P0306 Cylinder 6 misfire.
New plugs were Motorcraft plugs, but had skinnier center compared to the ones that came out of truck.
Where do I start? What do I do? I am really confused as I have changed plugs and wires before and always had vehicle run better or same as before change.
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I own a 2006 mustang v6 manual. I have never had a problem with my vehicle but my wife was hit from behind and now it makes a rattle under the car when I let off the gas or rev the engine. Well, tonight it worked fine on my way home but when I got back in the car to drive I noticed the car tach when I rev will not go over 4000 rpm and will bounce. When I drive it's like there is no power to accelerate (sputter cuts in and out) and I really can't go past 25-30 mph. After I reved the engine at the said 4000 rpm bounce for a few seconds there is a odor (unknown smell but almost a burnt smell)
The strange rattle metal sound Seems like it is coming from under the car about the drivers/passenger seats, but who knows. It's just my observation. Tranny is shifting into gears fine and idel is fine
I'm gonna look at it tomorrow. I need some direction on where to start
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My van stumbling upon acceleration. Well now I am getting the following codes and the van barely has enough power to move. The codes are: P1860 Enhanced: Tcc Pulse width modulation sol ckt electrical, P0758 Shift sol B ckt electrical, PO755 Shift Sol B malfunction, PO740 TCC ckt malfunction
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I was having an issue with my car not going into boost so I plugged my code reader in and it had 2 codes 1 was p1200 n249 malfunction and the other was diverter valve malfunction so I did the quick easy one and got a new factory diverter valve but it still doesn't go into boost and still reads p1200 n249 what do I need to replace or should I do the n249 bypass it's a bone stock jetta 5 speed.
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I recently found these codes. My car is APR 1+. The car seems to run fine so I'm not sure what is going on. I changed the plugs at ~60K miles and now have 72K miles.
Address 01: Engine (CRZ) Labels: 06F-907-115-CDL.clb
Part No SW: 5K0 907 115 M HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0020
Revision: 5BH20--- Serial number:
Coding: 0403010A180F0160
[Code] ....
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I tested my new VCDS today a HEX-USB+CAN. I got CAN: Not Ready. But that's impossible.
My guess is that the OBD2 interface I got is faulty.
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My grand prix is getting terrible mileage but runs great. Where should I begin checking. There is no codes or lights. It runs good but only gets 18-19 mpg on the hwy. I traded my wifes 97 Bonneville for this car and that big old bonnie got about 26 on the hwy with the same engine. I just assumed the gp would do at the very least the same. What do you guys get with the 98's? I don't know where to start but if it don't get better than that, I'm trading it back for a Bonneville. It has 113k on it. I have put a new Air Filter in it and Thermostat. It seems like it does not heat up very much but I guess it is ok. I put the new Thermostat in and it heats up the same. About 1/4 way up the gauge. I guess like 160-170?
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My wife has a 09 Santa Fe and we were getting code p0464 fuel sensor circuit intermittent. I changed both parts that need replacing. After about 20 miles now code p0442 small evap leak detected. I can only assume that it is coming from the fuel sensors that were replaced. Is there anything that I could have screwed up on?
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1997 Ford Mustang 4.6L EFI engine with 67K miles. The engine is actually now in a Factory Five Roadster. It sat on a stand for 5 years but runs well now with the exception of the code. I keep getting a code P0304 (cylinder 4 misfire) and I've checked the plug - the code seems accurate; it is misfiring.
Things I've tried:
1)swapped plugs,
2)this is a dual coil engine so I've swapped coils,
3)the #4 plug is the longest sparkplug wire so I've gotten high-performance wires,
4)heavily grounded the AL head,
5)put dielectric grease on the plug,
Still, ONLY cylinder 4 gives the misfire.
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Just turned 80k and recently noticed a bit rougher at idle. Other than that all has been fine. Plugs, etc. all original. Engine and VSC Light. Autozone ran the scan which turned up the above stated codes. They are defined as Evaporative emission control system pressure. He said it could be a loose gas cap. Checked it and its tight as a drum.
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2 error codes? Car runs fine - nothing seems wrong - the check engine light went on, so I pulled out the scanner which came up with the 2 codes: P0021 and P0022.
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I have a 2005 F-150 W/ 5.4 triton, and am having multiple codes. They are:
P0172- System to rich(Bank 1),
P0174- System to lean(Bank 2),
P0300- Random misfire,
P0303- Cylinder # 3 misfire detected,
P0304- Cylinder #4 msfire detected.
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Our 2007 Avalon with 65xxx miles on it was skipping and running rough this morning. Running a scan with my VAG-COM gave me these codes.
Mode 07: Pending emission related fault codes Address 7E8: 2 Faults Found: P0305 - Cylinder 5: Misfire Detected P0355 - Ignition Control Circuit for Cylinder 5: Malfunction
Would you say it is time to replace the Coil for this cylinder, or should I do more troubleshooting first?
From what I've read on this forum, it appears cylinders 1, 3 & 5 are at the rear of the engine and are a PITA to change. Is there a good write-up or video on how to change these at the rear of the engine?
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My r32 mk5 is throwing that code.
I replaced new o2 sensor with oem new one.post cat on driver side.
I have erased dtc and drove 15 miles dtc came back again.
Now i have replaced catalysator on driver side and same thing again.
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The CEL tripped yesterday and this is the code autozone pulled. WHat does it mean.
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My car is a Prius Plus 2012.
One day, I decided to go to a mechanic to clean the EGR pipe. Only the pipe, not the whole EGR. It was an extremely simple operation a mechanical one, not electrical etc. Starting from that day, when I go with the car, from time to time, check engine lights up. For a fraction of a second to up to 2 seconds then it disappear.
The car behave itself without a problem. But still the on-off check engine is really annoying.
So a went to the dealer. Put the car on tester.
Result: no code error !
I went to another garage , put another tester on the car, no error..
How can I actually see what the error is if nothing is stocked in the ECU of the car?
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I bought my first VW about 3 months ago (so excited!) It's a 2003 Passat, 5 spd, 1.8t. I've had one thing happen so far (until yesterday). On 4 separate occasions when I'd go to start it, it would crank for a few seconds before it would start. Then once it was running the EPC light would turn on. It seemed to be running normally but I turned it off and restarted it and it started normally and the light extinguished (the first three times). The last time (about a week and a half ago) it kept doing it each time I started it, and upon starting probably the 4th time in a row the MIL came on. I drove it about a mile, turned it off for a few minutes, then turned it back on and it started normally with no malfunction lights on. It's been normal since then. Until yesterday...
Yesterday as I'm accelerating from a stop light (I think I was in 3rd) all of the sudden the engine started running really rough and the MIL came on. I turned around and drove about 2 miles back to where I started at about 20mph. The MIL would be steady while coasting and flash while pressing the accelerator. I got a hold of a diagnostic computer and it came up with 3 codes...
1) P0322 Ignition/Dist Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal
2) P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
3) P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected PENDING
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I've been battling this truck for over a month now and starting to go a little crazy, It's a 2001 f350 7.3L, with a "used" 7.3L engine from a 1997. Transferred all the necessary parts to make it happen. Keep getting the evil p1316 idm codes detected coming back upon start up. Anywhere between 5-30seconds after starting the left bank dies. I've gone threw and replaced the IDM with a reman unit. New valve cover gaskets (with new harness). even went the extra mile and put in a new power wire (for the driver side) running directly from the new valve cover into the IDM bypassing a connector above the left valve cover. All injectors are checking out around 3ohms. With glow plugs all around 1-2ohms. What's interesting about this is, I can disable any one of the injectors on the left bank (doesn't matter which one) and the engine runs great considering it's down on one cylinder. But when I hook up that last injector it will kill the whole left bank again.
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In the past few weeks I have seen an intermittent "Level Error-Workshop". However every suspension function has worked perfectly, and no height was lost even while sitting at the airport for a week.
How to track down the leak. I can see a tank pressure of about 13 PSI. Is that about right. I did a raise / lower while VCDS was connected and there was a pressure drop to about 11.7 PSI but no level error. What is the correct range of tank pressure settings?
Address 34: Level Control Labels: 3D0-907-553.lbl
Part No: 3D0 907 553 C
Component: LUFTFDR.-CDC- 3C3V0 1122
Coding: 0005521
Shop #: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 2757057592F60B6
1 Fault Found:
01583 - Leak in System Detected
000 - - - Intermittent
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