Ford - Mustang :: 2006 - Rattling Noise From Under The Car - Tach Is Bouncing At 3800 To 4000 Rpm
Aug 11, 2013
I own a 2006 mustang v6 manual. I have never had a problem with my vehicle but my wife was hit from behind and now it makes a rattle under the car when I let off the gas or rev the engine. Well, tonight it worked fine on my way home but when I got back in the car to drive I noticed the car tach when I rev will not go over 4000 rpm and will bounce. When I drive it's like there is no power to accelerate (sputter cuts in and out) and I really can't go past 25-30 mph. After I reved the engine at the said 4000 rpm bounce for a few seconds there is a odor (unknown smell but almost a burnt smell)
The strange rattle metal sound Seems like it is coming from under the car about the drivers/passenger seats, but who knows. It's just my observation. Tranny is shifting into gears fine and idel is fine
I'm gonna look at it tomorrow. I need some direction on where to start
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I bought a gorgeous red 4.0L V-6 Mustang very cheap last week because it needed a clutch. I would not even pull the car. Little did I know that the clutch kit, including the slave cylinder and flywheel, was over $600. (But that's another story.)
The car runs now, but will not go over 3800 RPM in any gear. It had NINE codes, which they cleared. I was told that they primarily pointed to the MAF sensor. I cleaned it with the recommended aerosol. I have driven it 20 miles, and the MIL has not returned, but the little wrench symbol has. The Manual says to take it to the dealer (of course). The car seems to run fairly well, with the exception of the low rev limit. It is a "fly by wire" set up, with electronic throttle.
The cleared codes were P0102, P0113, P0135, P0141, P0155, P0161, P0403, P0443, and P0446. They actually repeated on Autozone's scanner. (My six year old Actron won't link to this car for some reason.
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'97 Taurus GL Wagon 197k: Some of this stuff has been going on for some time now (several months ... maybe even a year).
1.) Driving Itself:
Car seems to drive itself on my way home from work which is a long, flat road in the 45-55 mph speed range. Once I get into this range, I can take my foot off the gas pedal and the car pretty much maintains speed until I get to an upgrade. I've even noticed times when I'm not pressing the pedal but the car is slightly speeding up to the point where I have to keep tapping the brake to keep from getting too close to the car in front of me.
2.) Stalling/High Idle:
Sometimes when I come to a less than smooth stop at a light - say, a yellow light that quickly turns red and I have to stop quicker than I'd want, the car will stall out. This has only happened a couple of times in the last 6 months, but it had never done this at all up to this point, so it's a new phenomena. Otherwise, the idle is usually at 600 rpm (except recently I've been seeing high idles of 2000 rpm every so often, which is really weird!!). Also, it seems like if I park the car on an incline, the engine will turn over many more times trying to "catch" and start - and the whole start-up sequence just feels weak - like it's not getting enough gas.
3.) Tach Bouncing:
This one's got me the most concerned because I think it's the most serious (and potentially the most costly to fix). I completely transfused the tranny fluid a few months ago as a possible solution, by the way, so the fluid (Dexron Mercon IV) is fresh. At about 1500 rpm on the tach, the tach sometimes starts bouncing up and down on the scale and I can feel a metallic engagement/disengagement cycle. If I get above or below this area on the tach, however, no problem. Also, taking off from a standstill -even though I accelerate very slowly and smoothly because I KNOW the tranny is "soft" and will 'slip and slap' if I don't - I'm recently starting to feel a very very brief grinding-like slippage feeling that does not hinder acceleration much at all, but feels very unsettling. This is a new feeling and it only happens every now and then (so far).
You're gonna say the tranny's on its way out, right?
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I have a 1995 Ford Mustang GT. I've had it for 4 years now, and the engine rattles mostly when the RPMs are between 1500 and 2000, just after pressing the gas. Sometimes it does it when the RPMs are higher, around 2500, and sometimes it does it regardless of RPM after I've been driving it for a long duration. It's done this since I bought it, so it's not a pressing issue, but I'd still like to get it fixed.
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Driving at steady speed, doesn't matter what speed, let off gas and the tach surges 500 rpms and the car keeps going on it's own for a while. also pulling a hill at freeway speed car bucks like a spark plug miss, but not with the cruise on and engaged. smooth as silk then. 2009 Sonata 4 cyl, 30k miles.
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The AC and heat on my 2006 Mustang has stopped working. As for AC- the air only blows cold when I first turn the car on or when the car is moving. If I am sitting in traffic or stopped at a light the air blows warm! As for heat- it only works when I have the car on for 20+ minutes and even after that will randomly turn cold again. Any thoughts on how to fix??
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2006 Kia Sorento Auto Transmission, Appx. 106k miles. My wife's car so I don't drive this very often. However, on the last trip, I noticed that it would stay in a particular gear longer than (I think) it should. The RPM's will go up to maybe 4000 or so and stay there for a while even if I let my foot off the gas before finally kicking into overdrive or the next gear and back to a comfortable cruise. I notice this mostly happened when I was going highway speeds and either passing someone or going up a hill. I can't think of the last time the transmission fluid was changed, so I'm thinking that may not be a bad place to start...
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My 2006 AWD LTD 500 has about 52000 miles on it; a slight rattle/clunking noise is intermittently heard on driver's side in engine compartment. Took it in to dealer who says motor mount is cracked and front stabilizer bar joints are worn and both need replacing. Car has only been driven on highways or for short trips (3-4 miles) and has had no impacts nor been driven over rough roads or run over any potholes or such. Should the motor mount be damaged? At 52K miles?? Never heard of such a thing. Ditto, the stabilizer bar joints: worn out in under 60K miles? What can I do about this? Who seek relief from? Ford warranty is, of course, over, and supplemental warrenty will only cover motor mount replacement but not stab bar. Are these parts routinely wearing out at such an early date that repair shops can reap the rewards???
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2006 Mustang GT Convertible; air conditioner doesn't always work. When I press the button to turn on the air conditioner, the panel light illuminates but the a/c compressor does not engage. After driving the car for anywhere between 10 and 45 minutes, the compressor clutch will engage and the air conditioner cools normally. When I first noticed this problem over a year ago, I discovered that if I left the air conditioner in the "on" position when I turned off the car, the air conditioner would work the next time I started the car. This hasn't happened lately (so much for that "solution"). The car has been at the local Ford dealer multiple times for this problem and although they have been able to duplicate the problem, they have no solution. The dealer checked the electronics, recharged the system and tested the computer and told me that these were all fine.
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AC works, but only drops temp by 15 degrees. Pressures 40/150 after adding some 134a.
Compressor runs continuously at idle. (I don't know if this is correct or not.)
Not sure what the issue is.
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I have a 2006 chevy malibu 2.2 ecotec 4 cyl with ~130,000 miles and i am experiencing the following symptoms:
Car will not rev past 4000 RPMs or go over 70mph. I do have a check engine light with the following two codes: P0068(throttle position) and P0420(cat efficiency)
My question is instead of just replacing the cat where can i take my car (i live in tulsa, ok) to have the cat and the sensors checked before they are written off as bad?
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I have a 2006 Mustang (manual 5 speed) that recently has been having a problem getting into 1st gear
Symptoms:1. When the engine is cold, there is no issue getting the car into gear2. Once it warms up (after approx. 20 miles or 30 minutes driving), it is very difficult to get into 1st gear. I have to put it in 2nd then get it to slip into 1st.3. On hot days the problem starts sooner and is hard to get into the other gears4. when the car has warmed up on a cool day. I can get the car into the other gears (2nd, etc) when standing still, but first is almost impossible
Originally the problem showed up when my wife drove the car, but it is getting worse. Why the engine and/or outside temperature would affect how my I can get my car into gear?
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So i noticed recently, last month or two, a rattling noise coming from either rear of engine or in dash that only happens when at the higher rpms like 4-6k rpm. It goes away once rpms come down.
I am thinking just something in the dash is vibrating a little. No other issues as far as i can tell.
It is very slight, almost sounds like a plastic food wrapper getting crinkled in there....
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Over the last couple of days, my 2009 Sonata V6 has developed what I best can describe as a rattling noise near the engine when I am accelerating the vehicle (noise changes based on throttle input). I only hear the noise with the car in drive, if I shift into Neutral or when I am in Park I don't hear the noise when I rev the engine.
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Lately I have been hearing a rattling noise from the bottom of my car, when it's in park I can barely hear it but I know its there, but when i put it in drive or reverse it gets worse. Could it be that the exhaust heat shield is loose? Or worse? I had my Tranny fluid flused at 142,000 mi i'm at 144,000.
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I have a 2006 v6 ford mustang and just developed this problem yesterday.
When I drive the car, the temp guage stay right in the middle, but when I park I get white smoke come from under the hood. I popped the hood and saw coolant leaking from where the top radiator hose meets the engine block. This was producing the smoke. When I checked the hoses, the top hose was hot and hard, the bottom hose was cool and soft.
Extra info:1. I did not touch the radiator to see if there were cool or warm spots2. The overflow bottle looked empty or close to it, but the engine was still hot from driving to work
Thinking this could be one of the following:
1. bad thermostat
2. clogged radiator
3. Air bubble somewhere blocking the coolant flow
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Having this rattling/clattering noise at start up? Mine is starting to become more and more common... (54k miles).
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A few months before warranty expired on my 2009 Elantra I began hearing squeaking noise from clutch (it is 5 speed manual). Three trips to dealer and finally they opened clutch to find bearing being dry and plate dirty - bearing lost seal and all grease leaked.
It was about 50k miles on ODO. Plate, bearing and disk (I said replace it since you are there - I paid for the disk) were installed new. All supposed to be fine... until I got home. Here is what happening.
Fork is "swinging". It does not simply seat in position when released, but you can see it moving.
Clutch - when idle speed, clutch released in neutral there is a loud rattling/grinding noise.
Now, diagnosis at the dealer. They put the car on hoist and claim the tranny is trashed as the wheels were spinning when car was off the ground with engine running and tranny in neutral.
The shaky fork - all car is shaking so this is normal - vibration from engine. Replace tranny and it should be good.
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My car just hit 111k miles last week! I have the 2006 sonata V6 LX, new spark plugs n new cats at 65k. So today I got to school for my final and realized the car was making a weird noise.
The noise is barely there on low revs, but when I rev a tiny bit it becomes very noticeable, and gets rattles faster to a certain point, but i think after like 2.5-3k revs kinda goes away(kinda because I don't know if its because i cannot hear it over the engine noise) and then when i let off it rattles on the rev down and then gets silent for a split sec and then back the low rev rattle.
What i understand it could be belts, pully's, the timing belt tensioner?
I have the 2006 v6, and so i think the seal for the front of the engine has issues for the year, so there is an maybe very slow oil seeping thru, it had stained the front left of the engine above the alternator, but has been like this since 50k miles when i first noticed it and no problems
And also i have 2 12" 1000w rms subs in the trunk, so could it be the alternator that can make that kind of noise?
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I am getting a weird noise from the front suspension on my car. I recently about a year ago installed DG springs it did this a little before I replaced the springs but now its louder. it sounds like either a mount is loose or something is broken. I live on a dirt road so I hear it a lot on the small bumps. could it be the upper strut bearing? or the fact the coils are shorter? I have 112k on the clock and Id like to take it to willow springs soon but am concerned about this. One more thing it doesn't drive weird..
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I own a 2006 Kia Sedona which we bought brand new. Now after five years and 40,000 miles (we don't drive it much) it has developed a rattling noise by the top serpentine pulley. I am afraid this is where the timing chain is. I am not even sure if this vehicle has a chain or belt. Could either one of these be the problem?
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