Ford - Mustang :: 2006 - A/C Malfunction - Compressor Won't Engage?
Jul 7, 2012
2006 Mustang GT Convertible; air conditioner doesn't always work. When I press the button to turn on the air conditioner, the panel light illuminates but the a/c compressor does not engage. After driving the car for anywhere between 10 and 45 minutes, the compressor clutch will engage and the air conditioner cools normally. When I first noticed this problem over a year ago, I discovered that if I left the air conditioner in the "on" position when I turned off the car, the air conditioner would work the next time I started the car. This hasn't happened lately (so much for that "solution"). The car has been at the local Ford dealer multiple times for this problem and although they have been able to duplicate the problem, they have no solution. The dealer checked the electronics, recharged the system and tested the computer and told me that these were all fine.
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I have a 1995 ford mustang with a 3.8 v6, and have recently discovered an electrical problem. First I thought it was just the headlight switch. We replaced it, but looking at the old one, we found that it had gotten so hot, it melted all the plastic off the wires, and that this caused the switch to burn out. I replaced the old one with a new one but it still gets super hot. I'm afraid to drive my car at night for the reason that my lights might fail me in the dark.
Another problem, I'm unsure if they are associated, but it did appear around the same time I replaced the headlight switch. When my car is running, it is impossible to shift it from the park. The button on the shifter (its an automatic transmission) refuses to give, and the result is that my car can only be shifted into gear by turning the key to turn on the ignition position while pressing in the button on the shifter, and then starting my car and driving off. Another thing that i'm sure is associated with this problem is that the cruise control will not be turned off by the brake. It will disengage the cruise when braking but re-engages after my foot leaves the brake. These last two problems began at the same time.
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I have a 2001 mustang GT. I have 2 front calipers that are sticking. I changed both calipers twice, new brake hoses, bled all the wheels and the master cylinder. Why the calipers won't release?
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My daughter has a 02 stang with the 3.8 . the other day she complained that her ac was not cooling so i put my gauges on it and checked the freon. the compressor was on and the low side showed about 35 and high side was about 225. it was cooling good, now today it was not cooling at all and the compressor was not on so i jumped the pressure switch on the dryer and it came on, pulled the jumper and plugged it back in and compressor came back on and started cooling. I might have a bad pressure switch also about the pressures could the orfice tube be getting stopped up. this car must have had ac problems before with the previous owner because someone has wired the ac clutch 12v+ wire to the outlet side of the pressure switch and the 12v- side to a ground screw.
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I have a 95 stang that I just had refilled with Freon and oil at Ice Cold Air. The compressor turns on then cuts off as if its low on Freon but its not. Last night the ac started blowing cold and was this morning then started back on the compressor turning on then off. I know it has Freon in it and is full. Could it be that the orifice tube is clogged or maybe even the drier? is this something that I could take off and try to clean out?
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Ok I am at my wits end with this. I have a 2000 Mustang GT 5-speed with 80k miles. When the A/C is on it will occasionally misfire at steady, low (between 1-2k) RPMs and will have a fluctuating idle as well. Occasionally the fluctuating idle is bad enough that it stalls out. It only does this when the compressor is engaged. It sounds like a vacuum leak, but I have checked and cannot find any sort of vacuum leak. Also, it throws a P0300 (Random/Multiple misfire) code. When the A/C is off it runs like a charm. Here is everything that I have done...
Replaced COPs
Replaced spark plugs
Cleaned MAF sensor
Cleaned IAC valve
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced fuel pump (unrelated to this, the old one just died)
Ran seafoam through the motor
New battery (again, unrelated)
and maybe some other stuff I am forgetting
Also, I have taken some readings:
Fuel pressure @ idle ~32psi
Vacuum @ idle ~17in Hg
Had alternator tested - OK
Pressure in A/C system checked out OK (though I did use one of those AZ cans with a gauge on it, not sure how reliable that is)
Also, the A/C works great. It's like an arctic wind in there.
I am at a total loss for what to do. I would suspect it's something with the motor that is simply exacerbated by the added load of the A/C but I suppose it could be the A/C compressor? Is it possible that it needs lube? Doesn't the freon lube the compressor? (The pressure indicates it's fully charged and the A/C blows cold AF) ...
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I have a problem with my AC that is driving me mad. The compressor won't always engage, especially when accelerating. I browsed the forums and came upon this link; SpringerPop's Compressor Clutch Air Gap , very useful. With the AC on, when the compressor didn't engage, I just hit the clutch plate with a wood pole and the compressor immediately turned on.
So its definitely not pressure related and as far as I know, the relay and wiring are working or else it wouldn't even turn on. It works well for a few minutes (very well) and then it just stops working. Anyway, I read the instructions on that page. The thing is... when I put the keys in ON and turn the AC on... the clutch still doesn't engage, making it impossible for me to get the plate out to get the shim out.
Model: Ford Explorer 2000 SOHC....
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So clutch doesn't engage and compressor is not running. I have 12-13v at the low pressure switch and the same at the high. When I jump the low pressure I don't get any voltage at all at the plug that controls the relay for the clutch.
Where I'm confused is:
Is this a low pressure problem - gauge is reading 60psi on the accumulator
Or
Is this electrical somewhere?
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I just picked up a '94 7.3 IDI Turbo, and I can't figure out what ails the AC. It appears that there should be enough refrigerant (according to my recharge kit), but the compressor clutch will not engage. I have checked the fuses, and all are fine. All other HVAC functions are normal. Is there a way to test the compressor?
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Says A/C Compressor Clutch Circuit open. A/C blows hot air....go to VENT and the EATC controls the temp fine (ambient air only). It's on a '97 Lincoln Mark VIII if it makes any difference. Pulled code # 1530 ...
Clutch does not engage but the compressor does turn. Also the EATC will NOT go into the test mode. Push OFF and Floor at same time, then AUTO within two seconds. Nothing. Is this a clutch gap problem? New clutch was installed about a year ago.
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I have a 94 Ranger with 2.3L motor. Last week my ac quit working. I push the in and the ac light goes on, but the compressor clutch won't engage. I changed the relay, but that didn't work. The fan still works, but the ac does not come on. I tried banging on the compressor pulley, but that didn't do anything. The clutch is not frozen -- it spins freely. The connector looks good and I haven't done any work in the engine compartment so I couldn't have accidentally moved any wiring. What I might try or is my compressor simply dead?
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The A/C in my truck stopped working last year, and this year I intend to fix it. I believe the problem is with the compressor clutch because it was making noise as it would engage or disengage. It was making this noise for a good year or so, and then one day the noise stopped and I have no A/C. So I am only assuming its the clutch.
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I have a 1995 Ford Windstar. When I turn on the air conditioning, the compressor clutch does not engage despite having sufficient refrigerant in the system. Jumping current directly to the compressor clutch will engage the clutch, so it's not the clutch. I suspect the relay for the compressor clutch inside the CCRM may be bad, but am not sure how to test it. I have a Haynes repair manual, but how to test this device?
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When I turn on my air conditioner it just blows air, not cold air just air. If I turn it to heat it also just blows air, not warm air, just air. The fan settings all work fine but the air coming out never changes temperature. By the way, If I bypass the compressor clutch relay with a paper clip, the AC will kick in. I refilled the coolant in the AC system too but it won't engage without bypassing the relay. Plus, the heater is not "kicking in" either. I did recently install a new wiper motor but I am not sure if that may have contributed to the air issue that is happening now.
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Here is the issue i am having. 2011 F-350 King ranch with all bells and whistles. In Arizona now we are in the season that the weather is cold in the AM and sometimes hot enough in the late afternoon to need the A/C in the truck. with the settings on Auto which i normally do, and the external temp reading in the 80s, and the internal thermostat set at 70 or lower, the A/C compressor will not engage and allow for cooling the cab of the truck. But sometimes it will work just fine. I am assuming there is a temp sensor for cabin temperature. Where that is located. or will i have to change out the entire Climate Control Module. I would take it in to have it checked out but it is an intermittent problem, and i cant not have my truck for a couple of days while they try and figure it out.
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The AC in my 2004 V6 4-matic wagon has not worked since the dealer had it in their shop last. Coincidentally, neither does the outside temp display on the dash. I tried one of those recharge kits with the cans but the pressure guage registers 90 PSI when I hook it up, more than enough according to the instructions. So it seems the system is charged and it looks like the compressor will not engage. Could the temperature problem and the AC be related? Manual says it only kicks in when the outside temp is hot enough so I figure how will it know if its hot enough if the temp probe is not working? (unless there is another probe somewhere) ...
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My daughter has a 2003 Saturn Vue 2.2 and it seems that the clutch if froze up... I have checked Freon level with a gauge that I use to top of Freon and seems ok... the vehicle has 170,000 thousand miles... are these compressors prone to failure and is there a "Quick Fix" without replacing compressor, orphis tube and dryer?
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So my 2003 LS AC is not working. I had the Unit fully charged. and it started working. A few days later it stopped working. Checked Freon, and it is fully charged. I get power at the compressor but it will not engage. I ran the DATC Self test and got a 24 26 code back. What this code is? Why the ac clutch will not engage?
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if the fan doesn't work, could this make the AC compressor clutch not engage? I think the fan is burned out because it doesn't spin at all, and only moves with a lot of effort. If the fan circuit is open, will this cause the Compressor to not work as well? the car is a 1991 740 GL. 2.3L engine, non turbo.
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I took the car in today for the damn A/C.
They said my compressor is shot.
So, when I get it back I hope I will have cold A/C. I will let you know.
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I noticed that if i don't use my car for more than 3 days, it take my A/C compressor more than a minute to engage. Once it engages, every is ok. A/C is cold and everything is back to normal. Is that a safety feature for our compressor?
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