The AC and heat on my 2006 Mustang has stopped working. As for AC- the air only blows cold when I first turn the car on or when the car is moving. If I am sitting in traffic or stopped at a light the air blows warm! As for heat- it only works when I have the car on for 20+ minutes and even after that will randomly turn cold again. Any thoughts on how to fix??
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 Elantra w/ 108K miles. The current issue is the heat/ac blower intermittently not working. On Christmas Eve I started to drive it and realized the windshield was fogged up because blower was not working. The next day it worked fine...we chalked it up to maybe being related to having plugged a crock pot into the cigarette lighter (with a plug convertor thing)...wishful thinking that maybe something just got "overloaded." It has been working fine since, except last night when I started it, same thing--no air blowing on any of the settings (I read that if setting 4 works, but not 1-3, it makes a difference w/ the diagnosis). And, then again today...it works fine. Other things that I have noticed/that have happened in the past year or so (possibly unrelated, but figured it couldn't hurt to mention them just in case):
June 2013--started intermittently hearing a loud buzzing type sound (at first thought it was my phone vibrating)...sometimes would happen randomly, but mostly when I would adjust the heat/ac...sound coming from the passenger side front of the car floor area (maybe under glove box where I know the blower motor is). The buzzing would last anywhere from 2-20 seconds. Never did anything about it since everything was working fine...
Last winter--while driving home during a heavy snow storm w/ defrost on high and windshield wipers going noticed that the fan/blower seemed to "surge" when I stepped on the gas..like the blower would slow down when I braked and blast out much more air louder when I accelerated. I noticed this again tonight...possibly it has been ongoing and I just have not noticed.
Early Dec 2014-present--unable to adjust the temp setting...despite twisting the knob from red to blue, it remained hot air. Assumed it's the blend door, but figured we'd deal w/ it in the spring when I needed cold air again!
What this could be (or an overall problem that would explain all the problems?).
2006 Mustang GT Convertible; air conditioner doesn't always work. When I press the button to turn on the air conditioner, the panel light illuminates but the a/c compressor does not engage. After driving the car for anywhere between 10 and 45 minutes, the compressor clutch will engage and the air conditioner cools normally. When I first noticed this problem over a year ago, I discovered that if I left the air conditioner in the "on" position when I turned off the car, the air conditioner would work the next time I started the car. This hasn't happened lately (so much for that "solution"). The car has been at the local Ford dealer multiple times for this problem and although they have been able to duplicate the problem, they have no solution. The dealer checked the electronics, recharged the system and tested the computer and told me that these were all fine.
View 1 RepliesAC works, but only drops temp by 15 degrees. Pressures 40/150 after adding some 134a.
Compressor runs continuously at idle. (I don't know if this is correct or not.)
Not sure what the issue is.
I have a 2006 Mustang (manual 5 speed) that recently has been having a problem getting into 1st gear
Symptoms:1. When the engine is cold, there is no issue getting the car into gear2. Once it warms up (after approx. 20 miles or 30 minutes driving), it is very difficult to get into 1st gear. I have to put it in 2nd then get it to slip into 1st.3. On hot days the problem starts sooner and is hard to get into the other gears4. when the car has warmed up on a cool day. I can get the car into the other gears (2nd, etc) when standing still, but first is almost impossible
Originally the problem showed up when my wife drove the car, but it is getting worse. Why the engine and/or outside temperature would affect how my I can get my car into gear?
I have a 2006 v6 ford mustang and just developed this problem yesterday.
When I drive the car, the temp guage stay right in the middle, but when I park I get white smoke come from under the hood. I popped the hood and saw coolant leaking from where the top radiator hose meets the engine block. This was producing the smoke. When I checked the hoses, the top hose was hot and hard, the bottom hose was cool and soft.
Extra info:1. I did not touch the radiator to see if there were cool or warm spots2. The overflow bottle looked empty or close to it, but the engine was still hot from driving to work
Thinking this could be one of the following:
1. bad thermostat
2. clogged radiator
3. Air bubble somewhere blocking the coolant flow
I own a 2006 mustang v6 manual. I have never had a problem with my vehicle but my wife was hit from behind and now it makes a rattle under the car when I let off the gas or rev the engine. Well, tonight it worked fine on my way home but when I got back in the car to drive I noticed the car tach when I rev will not go over 4000 rpm and will bounce. When I drive it's like there is no power to accelerate (sputter cuts in and out) and I really can't go past 25-30 mph. After I reved the engine at the said 4000 rpm bounce for a few seconds there is a odor (unknown smell but almost a burnt smell)
The strange rattle metal sound Seems like it is coming from under the car about the drivers/passenger seats, but who knows. It's just my observation. Tranny is shifting into gears fine and idel is fine
I'm gonna look at it tomorrow. I need some direction on where to start
2000 Mustang was running fine. It hasn't been driven in a couple of days, and now wont start. No noise in the tank, fuel pump not working. But when you spray gas into the throttle body it wont even try to hit. Fuses under the hood beside the battery are all good. Inerta switch is down and in place. Am I missing something? maybe a relay? I would just think no matter what, getting fuel into the opening of the throttle would cause the car to at least cough.
View 5 Repliesthe rear heat doesnt work, the front heat works and the rear AC works fine.
View 6 RepliesMy heat control stopped working. If I play with the enough I get heat but when I turn the there isn't any tension there, I'm thinking something broke in the dash. I put a different on from my parts truck, no difference at all.
99 f150 xlt
my heat has suddenly quit woking getting hot. It has plenty of water, my heater hoses are not gettting hot.
View 14 RepliesMy heater stopped working.
View 9 Replies2003 F150 4wd with auto climate control. My blower for heat and AC completely stopped working a few weeks ago. I have checked all fuses, i replaced the relay under the dash, i replaced the blower motor control module. I supplied power to the blower motor itself and it ran fine with no noises. I ran the self test on the controller in the dash under the radio and it passed. I am not sure what else to try.
View 7 RepliesI noticed a couple weeks ago after starting the truck and turning on the a/c that nothing was coming out of the vents. I found it odd when after driving a few miles the a/c kicked in and started blowing cold air. Today I needed to put on the defrost and same thing, nothing came out of the vents. I drove around for a while hoping it would kick in just like the a/c did but nothing. I did check the fuses and relay. When you turn the control either to heat or a/c you can hear a clicking sound under the hood. It's trying to engage but nothing is coming out of the vents.
View 12 RepliesI have a 1997 Mazda b4000 new plugs wires head gasket an I cleaned out the radiator. My question is the truck runs good but my heat quit workin what could it be all fuse look good. Also there is water coming out of my tailpipe with white smoke. Should I be concerned.
View 2 RepliesHave 2009 F350 SD Lariat SRW and looking for a way to troubleshoot the driver seat heater unit. The panel light comes ON when depressed but the heat quit working the other day. It was working fine and the passenger seat works great?
View 5 RepliesWhen I purchased my suburban the a/c and heat would sometimes work in the front and rear. They "fixed" the problem and now a year later the entire rear component works sometimes and not others.
View 1 RepliesWent today to check out a buddy's truck, 06 F350 164k egr and cooler delete. He finally did his thermostat yesterday, after not having warm heat for months. Today on the way to work, had great heat for about 10 miles, then it went cold. Pulled over to check coolant, cracked cap loose, let pressure out, now had heat again. Same thing on the way home. Had the white streaks down from the cap, lost a small amount of coolant, just at min line now. He's owned this truck since 48k and no heads have never been off.
View 8 RepliesWell of course with the coldest weekend of the year coming up my heat stops working.
When I'm driving it pulls heat off the engine just fine but stopped it just blows cold air.
The heat in my friend's 2003 V6 Passat Wagon auto has stopped working. Coolant was flushed . He say's he smells a burning smell when he drives it. The heat will be set to max but no heat will come out. These are the codes I found.
Address 08: Auto HVAC
Labels: 3Bx-907-044.lbl
Part No: 3B1 907 044 J
Component: CLIMATRONIC B5GP 0005
Coding: 17200
Shop #: WSC 05311
5 Faults Found:
00603 - Footwell/defroster Flap Positioning Motor (V85)
37-00 - Faulty
01271 - Positioning Motor for Temperature Flap (V68)
37-00 - Faulty
01272 - Positioning Motor for Central Flap (V70)
37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
37-00 - Faulty
01341 - Control Module in Instrument Panel On Comfort CAN (J285)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
I own 01 Prius with 223K miles, No heat or AC working. Only get outside air. Here is the code I am getting: 3, 3, 4, 1, 4, 2, 4, 3.
View 19 Replies