Ford - Mustang :: 1998 - Pinging When Accelerate Up A Grade Of At Least 3 Degrees Beyond 40 MPH
May 15, 2013
My Mustang GT pings when accelerating up a grade of at least 3 degrees, beyond 40MPH. The pinging is reduced when I burn premium fuel, but it nevertheless still pings. I cannot drive beyond 50MPH over mountainous roads due to loud pinging which I am afraid will damage the engine. I have replaced the O2 sensors which were generating codes. No mechanic whom I have approached can tell me definitively how to eliminate the pinging. Otherwise, the engine, with its 144,00 milers runs perfectly.
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 1992 ford mustang 4 cylinder,its messed up bad.my car is shaking bad all the time and will not go faster than 40mph.what is wrong??
View 19 Replies
My Jetta wagon with 131K on it has a ping when I accelerate hard. I know it's not bad gas, but probably a carbon buildup. I've done a few seafoams that had some effect, but not much. I'm gonna do the water spray/steam next. Which components are prone to carbon buildup in these gassers that would cause ping?
View 4 Replies
2012 2.5l engine pings softly when I accelerate from a stop. I reported this at my last dealer service and the service manager recommended using Top Tier gas. He said it would take a few tanks to clean everything out. I'm happy to report that the car accelerates much more smoothly and my mileage has improved marginally. But the ping still exists. Engine is not throwing any codes (no check engine light).
On another note, the engine makes a growling sound on cold starts. I did some digging and found a TSB that addresses that issue. Could the engine pinging be related? I have about 4k miles before the bumper-to-bumper warranty runs out.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2003 Mach 1 Mustang, ( 4.6 DOHC 32 Valve)....
When I start my car in the morning. Idling the car sounds normal and perfect with my SLP exhaust. But when I start to go on my merry way, when I’m in 1st and 2nd gear and I accelerate past about 2.8K rpm's. I hear a really quite noticeable pingy/tingy sounds from my engine (Yes sounding like that annoying AMMCO commercial with people making noises). This will continue for a little while when i get into my normal running temperature, the sound isn’t as "Loud" so to say but still present.
I can comfortably say that there is nothing loose within the engine compartment. My spark plugs are tightened to the proper amount. I experience no performance lost as well. This has just been a nuisance since I have purchased the car, it currently has almost 60k mileage and has followed the proper maintenance.
View 9 Replies
I drive a 2004 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 and wound up doing a bit of unexpected rock crawling on a recent camping trip. After a whole lot of cussing and praying I got out with a couple of dents. Since then, I started to notice a strange noise. When I shift from 2nd to 3rd (~2500 rpm) and start to accelerate, I hear a metallic grinding/pinging for roughly a second. The clutch is fully released and it happens whether or not the engine is hot. It's the 2.7 liter 4 cylinder.
View 1 Replies
I have a 1998 ford mustang v6 automatic with 79k. I've owned it for 8 years and it has always shifted odd into overdrive. If I take my foot off the gas it will go into overdrive but not the smoothest. Should I start with a fluid flush? It shifts great through all other gears.
View 1 Replies
Simple question: Is it possible that battery problem/corrosion in battery cables would allow car to crank but not start on first try when cold? (Car normally starts on 2nd or 3rd try). I've read some places that if car cranks its not a battery problem but I'm not convinced.
Background:I have a 98 Ford Mustang (approx 140,000 miles) that occasionally has trouble starting. Car normally takes 2 to 3 tries to start first thing in the morning or if it has been sitting for a while. It always cranks but doesn't turn over. I had it in the auto repair shop, they said it had to do with IAC valve being stuck open. They recommended to replace throttle air by-pass valve. The repair was done and when I came to pick up the car I heard it take three tries to start before they brought it to me from the back. I asked about it, so the service advisor said he would go and talk to the tech, he said he talked to the tech and that there was a lot of carbon that he had cleaned out and maybe remaining carbon in the system caused problem, I got the idea that they seemed to think everything was fine if I had any problems I could bring it back. The car became even harder to start, now taking up to 8 tries. I brought it back and they said that the new IAC had to be adjusted to allow more air. I picked up the car, they said it was fine, but now it still takes 2 to 3 tries to start it first thing in the morning.
In the past, I have had trouble with battery and battery terminal corrosion, have had new terminal ends put on my battery a few times, last time was probably about 6 months ago. Terminal ends look very corroded again. I'm thinking about just asking them to replace the battery cables and see what happens.
View 8 Replies
I have a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with a 2.3 4 cylinder 5 spd. The problem I'm having is when I accelerate the car pulls to the right hard the steering wheel turns about 5 degrees. When I left off the throttle the steering wheel comes back to center and I hear a pop and feel coming from the passenger front. It also does this while I'm at speed I can hit a bump in the road and get the same problem. I just gave the car an alignment and the issue got worse now my whole car feels like it shifts to the right and left.....
View 3 Replies
My engine is very slow to warm up when the temp is below 30 degrees. Engine will reach about 170 after about 5 miles. What should I check first? Is it hard to change the thermostat or is there something else that controls the engine temp?
View 1 Replies
I recently changed the blower motor and blower motor resistor in my 98 Ford Mustang. Why my blower is still not putting out an air flow?
View 2 Replies
Like the title says my 98 stang will not start when the engine is hot. It starts perfectly when the engine is cold. When the engine is at normal operating temp the starter cranks like normal but the engine will not catch. If i give it a little gas while cranking it the engine will start until i take my foot off the gas then it shuts down. after i leave the car for about and hour it will start. I have new plugs, wires, alternator, fuel filter, air filter and my last oil change was three weeks ago. the battery holds a good 12.6v, I had the timing fixed in june. I jumped the fuel pump relay and there is good pressure up to the fuel filter.
View 2 Replies
I have a 98' F150 with a 5.4. When idling the A/C works fine. When I accelerate heat begins to come out of the vents. It does not put out cold air again until the motor is back to idle speed. When adjusting the temperature, I can hear the blend door motor turn but I don't hear the blend door shutting. Should I hear it shut or do I have a vacuum problem. I don't know where to begin if it is in the vacuum hoses.
View 1 Replies
I have a 1998 ford Windstar with a 3.8 V.6 When I turn my lights on and drive it my lights flicker. I have checked all my grounds that I no of and my connections while driving my lights go dim when I let off the gas. but do not flicker any more. when I accelerate they begin to flicker again. I've had the alternator check and all is good. I have no clue.
View 2 Replies
I have a 1998 f150 w/ the 4.6L V8
For months I have had a hesitation in this truck when i go to accelerate, and at times you can even feel a little buck with the cruise set at 70MPH. It has gotten worse and worse. When i start pulling a trailer good luck, it will do it but its terrible, hesitations and misfiring,
There is always a misfire/hesitation. Will Idle nice After its warmed up. Sat for 2 weeks fired it up and it had a HORRIBLE idle for at least 1-2 min. This is new now it wont idle when cold. Now I had one code Cylinder 4 misfire, cleared the code never came back 2-3k miles later still not back on -
replaced coil packs
New plugs
New wires
Fuel pressure test good
Checked the Heater hose - not leaking and nothing in the hole.
View 3 Replies
So my truck started to intermittently misfire about a month ago . I changed the spark plugs wires at first and it seemed to get better but it still had a misfire . I replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils and the misfire is still there . Up until the other day it was a noticeable issue but still drivable with . On my way home from work it got alot worse and started to misfire any time I tried to accelerate and now is noticeable at idle now as well.
I checked the fuel injectors resistance and they are about 14.8 ohms . I am not getting any codes for a misfire . I tried to pull the fuel injector connectors to try to find the source of the misfire but could noticeable change in engine rpm. Where to go from here and what I should check first? Would a clogged fuel filter cause something like this ?
View 9 Replies
I have a 98 ranger, 4x4, 5spd 3.0 with 88k miles.
While I am driving it, everything is great, but when i start to accelerate, or torque the engine (going up a hill), I get this clicking/vibration in my gas pedal. its extremely noticeable, by feeling and ear.
Its most common around 2k to 2.5k RPM. There is a lot of play in the throttle cable, about an 1" or so give untill you feel pressure. What I need to replace or tighten?
View 1 Replies
Every time I climb a grade, I get the 299 code. My VGTs go to 15 or 85. Does this indicate my turbo is sticking?
View 4 Replies
I have a 2000 F-150 4x4 with a 5.4 engine. On two different occasions, I have been driving down the highway about 70 miles an hour down a slight grade in OD. When I let off the gas to coast a little the truck will downshift. press on the gas again, the truck goes back into OD. I do this a couple of times and then it wont do it again. What might be happening. Truck has 82,000 miles on it. I am the only owner. Transmission fluid changed a year ago.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2000 Excursion with a 7.3 diesel. I have 245k on the clock. Engine and transmission are original. I have an overheating issue when I am towing and pull a long grade. It's not as bad as it was before but it still happens and I am tired of turning off the AC and putting the heaters on full blast to support cooling when it is 90 plus outside. A list of things that I have done so far.
Newer water pump and thermostat.
New tensioner.
Installed a new trans pan with about 7-8 larger capacity.
Used some magic juju juice to clean out colling system.
Installed a coolant filter. I am on my 5th filter. The first one didn't last 500 miles before getting stopped up.
Switch to Delo ELC.
I recently had the upper hose off and when I looked inside, I didn't see any scale or build up. I also read about some of the trucks of that vintage didn't get a trans cooler. When I looked, I saw a cooler but it doesn't look like it is plumbed through the radiator.
I want to install a large trans cooler. I don't want to replace the radiator just for the sake of replacing it. Also, look at the pic of the water pump with the thermostat sitting in it. Is the thermostat supposed to be resting all the way down? I keep wondering about that.
View 14 Replies
I do not think, I have seen anything about the engine shutting down descending a steep grade. first it threw the "wrench" warning and than that the engine was going on limp mode. luckily no one was on the road with me, coming or going. i pulled off on the shoulder with part of the pickup and 5er on the road. no steering or brakes used the 5er brakes to stop. turned the key off and restarted it again and no code or warnings. like nothing happened. it happened twice today between yellowstone park and great falls, mt. the second time the engine light stayed on and i had to stop and turn it off and restart it and it went away.
View 14 Replies
