Ford - Mustang :: 1998 - Hard Start At Cold?
Jan 7, 2013
Simple question: Is it possible that battery problem/corrosion in battery cables would allow car to crank but not start on first try when cold? (Car normally starts on 2nd or 3rd try). I've read some places that if car cranks its not a battery problem but I'm not convinced.
Background:I have a 98 Ford Mustang (approx 140,000 miles) that occasionally has trouble starting. Car normally takes 2 to 3 tries to start first thing in the morning or if it has been sitting for a while. It always cranks but doesn't turn over. I had it in the auto repair shop, they said it had to do with IAC valve being stuck open. They recommended to replace throttle air by-pass valve. The repair was done and when I came to pick up the car I heard it take three tries to start before they brought it to me from the back. I asked about it, so the service advisor said he would go and talk to the tech, he said he talked to the tech and that there was a lot of carbon that he had cleaned out and maybe remaining carbon in the system caused problem, I got the idea that they seemed to think everything was fine if I had any problems I could bring it back. The car became even harder to start, now taking up to 8 tries. I brought it back and they said that the new IAC had to be adjusted to allow more air. I picked up the car, they said it was fine, but now it still takes 2 to 3 tries to start it first thing in the morning.
In the past, I have had trouble with battery and battery terminal corrosion, have had new terminal ends put on my battery a few times, last time was probably about 6 months ago. Terminal ends look very corroded again. I'm thinking about just asking them to replace the battery cables and see what happens.
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I have issues with engine starting when cold outside or after rain. This only happens when engine is cold and has not been started for a day or 2. Distributor cap does not have any condensation inside but does seem to corrode on contact points. Engine turns over fine, has fuel and spark. When this happens engine will not fire and after awhile it will start to fire and lock up when it fires then continue cranking. After repeated attempts it will start and run fine, can be shut off and start right back up with out any issues. It could take a few tries to a few hours of trying before running though. I'm leaning toward a distributor or timing issue. Am I on the right track? 98 Suburban K1500 5.7L ....
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A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
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Like the title says my 98 stang will not start when the engine is hot. It starts perfectly when the engine is cold. When the engine is at normal operating temp the starter cranks like normal but the engine will not catch. If i give it a little gas while cranking it the engine will start until i take my foot off the gas then it shuts down. after i leave the car for about and hour it will start. I have new plugs, wires, alternator, fuel filter, air filter and my last oil change was three weeks ago. the battery holds a good 12.6v, I had the timing fixed in june. I jumped the fuel pump relay and there is good pressure up to the fuel filter.
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Here's my video of it doing it: [URL].....
98 e-450 rv cutaway with the 7.3 PSD. 219k.
Here's what I have done so far
-New GPR
-New Glow Plugs
-New CPS
-unplugged the PCM, and re-plugged
When it cuts out like the first time in the video, the accelerator pedal does nothing at all. Then once the WTS and CEL go off, it's fine again for a bit.
It seems to only do it when the engine is cold as well. After I had driven it around the block a few times and let it idle, it got better. I was able to drive it 20 miles round trip without it cutting out.
Also, might be related, it has been random on power since I got it. Sometimes I have to floor the accelerator to get up a hill, sometimes I barely need to touch it.
What to check next? It's hard to tell if it's de-fueling or if it's an electrical issue.
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I have a 1998 ford mustang v6 automatic with 79k. I've owned it for 8 years and it has always shifted odd into overdrive. If I take my foot off the gas it will go into overdrive but not the smoothest. Should I start with a fluid flush? It shifts great through all other gears.
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I've been driving my wife's 2001 Ford ZX2 for the last ~9 months.
Early on in taking over driving it I noticed that it was difficult to start, so I had the battery checked. One place said it need to be replaced, but I wanted confirmation so I had it checked at two other places--it was in the normal range. So then I thought it probably needed a tune up since, as far as I know, it had never had one (has ~50K and I know it should've been done earlier). But, that didn't seem to fix it either.
I then had the fuel filter replaced. Nothing. I generally turn the key over for a few seconds before I actually crank it to let fuel in. It is now taking 3 times each startup to do this. And, right after starting it feels like the car is struggling to get gas (as if the fuel filter is completely stopped up or a fuel link is kinked).
Once the car is warm it cranks over on the first time (as if nothing is wrong). The last time I was at the shop they told me I need to have my fuel injection system cleaned. I have doubts about this--they based it on mileage not any sort of actual diagnostic or inspection. I use quality gas and run a fuel injector cleaner at each oil change.
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Truck: 1999 Ford Truck F 350 4WD Super Duty V8-7.3L DSL Turbo VIN F
Problem: Especially when it is cold outside . . . The truck takes forever to start and while doing so a ton of white/grey smoke comes out of the exhaust.
My starting schema: Turn the key on have the gas pedal pushed to the floor until the "wait to start" light goes out. Then, I turn the key off and back on while still pressing the gas pedal all the way down. When the "wait to start" light goes out again I remove my foot from the pedal and try to start it. I never leave it cranking for more than 5-7 seconds. If, after trying this process several times I will not push the pedal in at all. Also, sometimes I will leave the pedal pushed in while I am cranking it over.
The truck used to start after a couple of tries but lately it won't start at all, even after 20 tries. Sometimes it will spin up for a second as if the engine gets going but then just doesn't continue running. When it is warm out it will usually start after a few tries but doesn't seem normal to me. After I first bought the truck(used) it would start up within half a second after turning the key.This all started after I had to fix an o-ring that was damaged on the top/back of the motor that was dumping all my oil out of the top/back of the motor.
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My Mustang GT pings when accelerating up a grade of at least 3 degrees, beyond 40MPH. The pinging is reduced when I burn premium fuel, but it nevertheless still pings. I cannot drive beyond 50MPH over mountainous roads due to loud pinging which I am afraid will damage the engine. I have replaced the O2 sensors which were generating codes. No mechanic whom I have approached can tell me definitively how to eliminate the pinging. Otherwise, the engine, with its 144,00 milers runs perfectly.
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I have a 95 Ford mustang GT. When it is cold outside (Below 40 ish) it starts for about 1 second, dies abd the second time starts fine. has check engine light for lean exhaust. vacume pressure fine and been using injector cleaner but no improvement. replaced spark plug/ wires pcv valve.
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When the a/c fan is on any setting other than the highest setting the air comes out cold. When the fan is set to the highest setting, it only comes out warm. This happens regardless of a/c or max a/c setting, regardless of fresh or recirculated air, and regardless of car speed. (2005 Mustang GT)
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I have a 1998 Gr Cherokee with an automatic tranny. It is slow to shift when cold and the overdrive shifting works reasonably well but I have been told by a reputable mechanic that the tranny needs a new tranny filter at over $1000. My latest check of the tranny fluid and the level and quality indicates both are good. Should I replace the tranny filter?
Also, for the same above vehicle, when I put the vehicle into a moderately hard turn (right and left), the front wheels audibly click and you can feel the click vibration in the steering wheel when happening.
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I just bought an 03 Ex that hadn't been driven but 600 miles the past three years. Needless to say, there's probably some sludge causing issues somewhere. I have a Scangauge installed, which has been very useful thus far.
I've flushed the coolant, currently with distilled water, changed the oil and filter, atf and filter, and installed my 2nd set of fuel filters after getting stranded after I ran my first tank of fuel through it. After changing the fuel filters the second time, I was still having cold starting problems, requiring 3-4 long cranks before firing. Once warm, runs fine. I just installed a FICM from Diesel Tech Ron, but I still have to try 3-4 times to get it to cold start, then it runs and starts ok. Not sure why the hard cold starts...
Also, the heat doesn't work. A/C is fine, blower is working. I installed a new thermostat, and like I said, I have flushed the coolant with tap water and now distilled water, but didn't want to pour in fresh coolant just yet, in case I have to drain it again with this heat issue. That vc7b is not cheap. Tonight I drove the truck about 20 miles and my highest temps for EOT was around 215 and ECT was 205. Fluctuated between the the mid 190s to low 200s most of the time, this was over some hilly roads with no load or anything. Anything else I can monitor or check on in the mean time?
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So roughly 2 months ago my ac wasnt blowing cold anymore and it was the evaporator, so i got a new one put in and recharged and it blows 50 degrees or colder now and it still blew that cold today. But today i heard a noise coming from the engine, so i inspected it and saw the compressor was turning on and off which it was doing right before i got it fixed 2 months ago, so I know its not the compressor but i know that's probably gonna go soon to. now its getting to winter so I don't need the ac.
Everything else is working perfect never had any problems with the car other then the ac, it does get used a lot cause but it never gets pushed passed level 2 out of 4. it has 90k on it and i was wondering if this is a major repair to just let it go and sell it for a reasonable price and pick up another car? or just fix it and hope another problem does not arise in 2 months. Like i said ive never had any problems with it before other then the ac. it still runs great and i can still floor it and she responds almost like new.
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AC works, but only drops temp by 15 degrees. Pressures 40/150 after adding some 134a.
Compressor runs continuously at idle. (I don't know if this is correct or not.)
Not sure what the issue is.
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I have a 2005 STX with 107,000 miles on it. When it is cold you have to turn the key on for 5 seconds twice then start it. When it is warm it will start like it always did. When the temperature outside is 60 or above you have to do the key thing about 5 times. I think it is my fuel pump...
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I have a 2011 Mustang base with the V-6 engine and 6 speed transmission. It is my summer car, getting fewer than 3,000 miles on it per year. I take very good care of it. My question is what is the mechanical knocking noise I am hearing on cold starts? It continues for about 5 minutes until the engine is fully warm, then stops. The noise comes from the valve cover area. It clearly is a noise that cycles with the movement of internal parts. Is it normal or could be something serious. The car only has 10,000 miles on it (it was sold in 2010 as a 2011 model, so it is 5 years old now).
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I got a 2002 mustang v6 and I hadn't flushed the coolant since 5 years ago so I decided to take off the radiator cap off too check the status of the coolant. As I took the cap off, coolant started to slowly spill out of it so I quickly put the cap right on. What causing this? My car was already cooled down and it can't be a head gasket problem cause I don't see white smoke. And I don't see any leaks from hoses and water pump . I park my car outside could it be the sun heating it up and making the coolant flowing out when I take the cap off? What causing this?
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My 1990 4.0 refuses to start when the air temperature outside is at approx 40 degrees or below. It will crank until the battery runs dead if I let it. At approx 50 degrees farenheit the truck takes forever to start and always backfires out of the tailpipe and intake manifold (blowing off a hose on the vacuum tree) before it starts. If I can get it to backfire, it will start eventually. If it does not backfire, then I can run the battery dead and the truck still refuses to start. This condition has grown from a little problem to a huge problem over the past 6 months. Here is what I have done so far, including regular maintenance items.......
KOEO test checked OK
KOER test returned code 77 multiple times (TPS).
Replaced Throttle pos. sensor
Replace Idle air bypass valve
Subsequent KOER test came back with no more codes except 11 - OK
Load tested battery
Made new heavy gauge battery cables for + and -
New plugs, wires
newer starter
Changed coil pack for known good one off my explorer
Visually inspected hoses for vacuum leaks, replaced 1 cracked hose
1990 Ranger ext cab 4X2 4.0L, K&N air filter in stock airbox, Pacesetter headers, single 2 1/2" exhaust, stock cat no muffler, 260K on truck, 104K on good used engine from my 1994 Explorer. Purchased Ranger brand new in 1990. A4LD w/ shift kit.
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2003 Excursiom 4x4 Limited
My first Diesel. Runs and drives great. Torque Pro app only showed coolant temp at 188. Would not show oil temp. Hard to cold start. New injectors. Has a programmer. He is asking 12K. It has 209K miles.
It belongs to a friend of mine and he rarely drives it. It stays under a cover most of the time.
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Truck runs great if I get it started. Here are symptoms.
-Extremely hard to start when engine is cold
- It will start fairly quick if plugged in all night
- After running there is no issues with starting unless sits over night
- Batteries good and engine cranks fast
- Tests and parts I have replaced
- Replaced GPM (Glow Plug Module) I do not have the relay as most seem to have on their engines. I did replace this unit.
- Replaced Glow plugs all 8 this morning. Since they where cheap enough it did not hurt the wallet.
- Replaced crank position sensor. Tach moves when engine is cranking.
- Checked the HPOR and it has oil about 1/2" from top.
Now what is left to check besides doing a buzz test to rule out injectors? Also if truck runs fine and does not run rough could injectors still be bad?
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