Ford - Mustang :: 1993 - Start But Won't Stay Idling?
Nov 11, 2011
1993 5.0 mustang. The car wil start but will not stay idling. if the accelerator is gunned, it will run. The car has been tuned up (cap, rotor, plugs, air & fuel filter, also oil and filter). We thought maybe the fuel was old as it had been sitting for a few months so we drained out the old fuel and put in some fresh gas...Still the same issue. Got ahold of a fuel pressure tester from the loaner program at Autozone. The guy behind the counter looked up the spec and said it should be between 35 and 40 PSI. After putting the gauge on the Mustang, we got a reading of 30 PSI. Would this reading cause the current issue? Is a new fuel pump in this car's future?
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I love my '86 Mustang GT convertible. Currently at 106,000 miles and running strong. The problem is searching at idle. I have replaced every sensor that me and my mechanic can think of. New plugs and wires along with rotor and distributor cap. The engine will start searching, i.e. idling up and down, and at time stall. If I apply slight pressure and idle up to 1,000 RPM the searching stops. Hard to do sometimes as this is a stick.
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My '93 Honda Accord has developed a problem with starting and holding its idle. After the car has sat overnight or for several hours, it may be hard to start. (Sometimes it starts right away!)
It can take several minutes to start idling well or it may be fine in seconds. It's all very inconsistent.
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My 1993 Mustang GT 5.0 will not go in to 2nd gear. It's the AOD and it goes into 1st, 3rd and OD just fine. I've heard there a pressure bolt that set the pressure in the trans and that it may be why I can't go into 2nd. And I've also heard that my TV cable may be stretched.
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The 93 Cutlass Ciera 3.3 6 cyl. is hard to start..takes like 3 tries to start it...even after changing..oxygen sensor, MAF sensor, coil pack, fuel filter, air filter, good plug wires, crank position sensor, fuel pump, sending unit....if idling low will stall sometimes. Mechanic said it's slow getting spark up just when starting it..not sure why..
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In the first two years of ownership of my Passat, when I would turn the car on during cold days, the rpms would stay at 1500 for a quick 20 seconds until the car got a bit warm and then would drop down to about 800. Recently, when I turn the car on cold days, the rpms drop directly to 900 and below.
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so i've been slowly fixing up an old conversion van i recently got (1993 ford E150 5.0L).... and i'm having problems with this thing idling at about 3000 rpms... i've changed the upper intake gasket cause it was leaking, valve cover gaskets,TB gasket, IAC gasket, park plugs, wires, distributor cap and coil... i've checked vacuum lines, vaccum leaks, still no change...
When i unplug the IAC it idles down to where it's supposed to be..... so i thought it was faulty, and bought a new one....still no change... idles around 3grand unplug it and it idles down..... the IAC is getting 11.44 volts to it which is in the good from what the haynes book says.... before i changed all the gaskets it was idling around 2grand or so, and it got worse after i changed everything.
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I just purchased a 93 escort sedan 1.9 ltr engine. Car runs great when idling but bogs down when accelerating to the point it almost stalls out but doesn't stall. the car sat for a while 6 + months. We thought the gas might be bad so we drained the tank filed it with premium to run thru the line but that didn't work. thought maybe o2 sensor, changed that but didn't work. getting error codes 412 and 538 but can't find any info on these codes.
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A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
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My 93 Celica GT Convertible 2.2 (5s-fe?) won't stay running at idle. It starts up fine but is loping and dies unless I give it some gas. I really don't know that much about engines, but I tried disconnecting the PCV valve and the engine began to run more or less normally. I've replaced the PCV with a new one but it didn't fix the problem. The replacement PCV valve didn't seem to fit quite as tightly as the old one but that may have been due to the age of the old one. I assume there is an air flow issue of some kind, but don't know where to look next. I just want to get it running so I can sell it.
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Okay, I just bought the truck (all stock except for straight pipe and cai). Nothing bullet proofed yet. It has 125,xxx miles on it and for the 4 months I had it I had no issue. Well now while idling or driving the glow plug light will flash on then off and stay off. I'll have no power and after a few minute it'll die on me. But start right back up. Is this a harness issue? 2006 6.0.....
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I have a 1993 Dodge Stealth (3.0 V6 SOHC) that has been idling a little rough, especially when the a/c is on. It was suggested to me that a dirty throttle body could be the cause, so I cleaned it. After I did that it ran great with the exception of idling around 1000 RPM instead of the usual 300, then the next day driving home from work (ran fine on the way TO work) whenever I tried to coast or engine break my engine began to shudder and run really rough! what could be happening?
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I have a 87 gmc sierra with a 305 tbi motor, i drove it and parked it for a year and it was running fine, i went to go start it again it fired up and high idles for about 5 seconds then dies, I have put fresh gas in it and ran some seafoam threw it, changed fuel filter, rebuilt the tbi system with all new gaskets and seals, injectors seem to work as they should, i have replaced the distributor,and the cap and rotor, new plugs, IAC, coolant temp sensor, map sensor, egr valve, egr solenoid,, new oil and filter, and checked all vacuum lines, grounds,checked all the sensors with the ohmn meter and all getting the correct power, its pretty close on timing, i just cant seem to figure it out, it will idle high and sound good then fall on its face, the only way to keep it running is you have to pump the peddle, it wont rev up at all it just sputters and dies.
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I've had my car sitting for 3 weeks and went out this morning to start it and it turns over but won't start. It has fuel and the battery seems to be providing enough power to the starter. It ran fine 3 weeks ago and I have not done any repairs recently that would be cause for the problem, I also changed the oil a month ago.
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it's been parked for about 2 months in my driveway, which slants upwards. I cranked it for a solid 30 minutes (jumped the battery so it wouldn't die). I don't smell gas so I think gas isn't making to the motor.
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I have a 1967 Ford Mustang. I drive in mainly on the weekends. The carb is rebuilt within the last six months. I installed a new alternator about a month ago. The battery was leaking and so the car stopped running one day. I just put in a brand new battery. It still won't start. It feels like it's trying to start but just won't turn over. I did clean the terminals and lubricated them as well when I installed the new battery.
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Purchased this car almost two years ago and it would typically start up no problems after sitting overnight or for a few hours. However, after running the car and then say turning it off to pump gas or just for a short stop, it never starts up right away. Just this week I had it taken to a friends repair shop (yeah, I know) and was told they moved/adjust distributor caps and checked carb and that they saw no other problems and they had it starting it up every time. They had suggested that what I needed to do was run the old gas (its only been sitting about 3 months) and keep running premium until we are certain that nothing remains in the tank except new gas, but assured me that the car was good to go and they sent me on my way.
Now, they didn't charge me, which is great, but I got what I "paid" for when I took the car out for about a 45 minute cruise, stopped for gas, and without fail the dang thing wouldn't start. A lovely citizen at the gas station raised the hood, fiddled with the carb, as he didn't think it was a battery issue, and was able to get the car going and get me home, but again, car wouldn't start about 20 minutes later. Hours later, out of curiosity, attempted and car started just fine.
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I have a 93 Corolla LE and in October I was driving in heavy rain and the car died. Since then I have replaced the spark plug wires, plug seals, distributor cap, battery, and rotor. The car would get me from A to B, but I would always have to put it in neutral at a stop to keep it from dying. This past week we've had a lot of rain and it's been really cold so my car has been dying when I slow down or stop. I gave it plently of time to heat up thinking it would work, but it died three times on the way to work.
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1992 Ford Mustang 5 spd 2.3l 4 cylinder. So a couple weeks ago, i got into my car and tried to crank it. I got one click then nothing. That's what I get whenever i turn the key. Not the repetitive clicking when the battery is low. After I found another ride home, I did some research and determined that it was probably the starter solenoid. I took a trip to Autozone and replaced the solenoid, but when i tried to crank it, one click then nothing. In order to get my car out of the school parking lot, I popped the clutch and got it running. Now, I'm stuck as to what the problem could be. I'm thinking it might be the starter itself, but it might also be the ignition switch.
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I have a '68 302 2 barrel carb Mustang and cannot get it to start! I have spark and I have gas getting into the carburetor. It turns but does not start. I'm at a loss and cannot figure out what to do.
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Simple question: Is it possible that battery problem/corrosion in battery cables would allow car to crank but not start on first try when cold? (Car normally starts on 2nd or 3rd try). I've read some places that if car cranks its not a battery problem but I'm not convinced.
Background:I have a 98 Ford Mustang (approx 140,000 miles) that occasionally has trouble starting. Car normally takes 2 to 3 tries to start first thing in the morning or if it has been sitting for a while. It always cranks but doesn't turn over. I had it in the auto repair shop, they said it had to do with IAC valve being stuck open. They recommended to replace throttle air by-pass valve. The repair was done and when I came to pick up the car I heard it take three tries to start before they brought it to me from the back. I asked about it, so the service advisor said he would go and talk to the tech, he said he talked to the tech and that there was a lot of carbon that he had cleaned out and maybe remaining carbon in the system caused problem, I got the idea that they seemed to think everything was fine if I had any problems I could bring it back. The car became even harder to start, now taking up to 8 tries. I brought it back and they said that the new IAC had to be adjusted to allow more air. I picked up the car, they said it was fine, but now it still takes 2 to 3 tries to start it first thing in the morning.
In the past, I have had trouble with battery and battery terminal corrosion, have had new terminal ends put on my battery a few times, last time was probably about 6 months ago. Terminal ends look very corroded again. I'm thinking about just asking them to replace the battery cables and see what happens.
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