Ford - Mustang :: 1990 5.0 LX Stalling After Braking From Long Highway Driving
Jan 8, 2013
My 1990 mustang 5.0 LX has a very consistent stalling problem when travelling long distance on the highway at a good speed. After 2 hours of driving highway speeds and then pulling off the highway, the car stalls after I brake or stop at a light. I don't know why this seems braking related, but not sure. I then sit and crank the motor and it cranks for a bit and starts right up. I think it's fuel, but now sure yet.
Here's what I have done:1. Tune-up: plugs, wires, cap, rotor2. new fuel pressure regulator3. new fuel filter4. new fuel cap5. Checked for vacuum leaks (none found)
It seems to not happen when the gas tank is low, but I can't swear to it.
I'm going to run a fuel pressure gauge to the futhel rail and see if I can catch the drop off of fuel pressure when it occurs. Also, I noticed that the gas cap does not hiss when I unscrew it at any point in time.
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I have been having an on going issue with my 1990 Oldsmobile. It will randomly stall while I am driving. It has happened while driving at speeds ranging from 25 to 50 mph. It always happens while I am driving, not while I am stopped. First I will feel the engine buck, and then the check engine light comes on. After this, I have about 10 seconds until the car completely stalls out and I have to pull over and attempt to restart. Sometimes it will restart immediately, other times it takes a few minutes. Sometimes when it restarts, the engine will "roar" as if I were pushing the gas down while in park.
Sometimes when I get it to restart, I can continue driving and it will not happen again, but other times it will happen continuously. This has been going on for about 6 months. I have brought it to the shop several times. My mechanic had to drive it around for awhile before it would occur again and he could understand what was going on. I have had the thermostat, alternator, and throttle replaced. After getting all this work done, the problem did not occur for several months...until today.
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My father in law gave us a car to use so my husband can get back n forth to work. Recently it started dying on him while he was on the highway and we don't know whats wrong with it. His father told us its a brand new batter that was put in it before he gave it to us. The car is a 1990 Honda Accord. The radio already doesn't work so its always off. The car dies no matter if heat/air is on or off. I don't think it could be a battery problem. There's 2 lights that come on when it dies: battery and oil. We put oil in it. The weird thing is that after it dies, we put it in park and turn key in ignition to off position and then restart it and it starts right back up with no problem. We really don't know whats wrong with it but cant afford to take it to mechanics to tell us 100 other things wrong with it..
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How to go about fixing my 1987 AMC eagle. I recently just purchased the service manual and am trying to figure out what I should repair first. I noticed a few weeks ago my car wouldn't idle in the cold.After bringing it to the shop multiple times it still does not run right. In fact, it seems to have gotten worse and has even died while going around 45 mph. Once it does die I find it very difficult to start. I have noticed some bad smells while trying to start it again sometimes gas..sometimes almost a burning rubber smell. (The belts are still in tact) Once it starts again it acts much like it had gotten flooded.
The motor seems to be fine and sounds good when running at proper temp. Recently, it will even die when the engine is all warmed up.Often when I get back in the car after driving it (while engine is still warm) I can turn it over almost instantaneously it doesn't necessarily sound good though. I noticed before all of this began that it would putter when going down a steep hill (or letting off of gas). Do I need to rebuild the carburetor ? Could it be as simple as a bad pcv valve? I have already put in 600+ into fixing this and no results. I am pretty convinced it some sort of fuel issue. I am also concerned the choke might be sticking and needs adjusting.
I brought it into the shop and they tightened the timing belt and secured some loose battery cables. They also said I needed to replace the battery which I then did. This did nothing to improve the how well my car ran. I brought it back and they replaced the distributor cap and adjusted the timing which apparently was way off. This did improve the performance of the vehicle but did not stop it from dying.
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I just bought a 2005 Scion XA for commuting but am considering driving it from Maine to Maryland and am concerned about driving long distance at highway speeds with 3200 RPM at 65 MPH. Is this ok?
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My wife's 2005 Escape Hybrid has recently started acting up. After a bit of driving at semi-highway speeds (say 10 minutes), when you slow down to a stop- the car stalls out (or what feels like a stall to someone who drives a std transmission car). Sometimes, it comes back on when you turn off & on the car- sometimes it takes a minute of being off to turn back on. After a few cycles of this, the engine temperature warning goes off. After each stall, the car will be ok for a few minutes then stall again when slowing down (it seems to do it when you are under 20mph only- not that I am about to try to stall it at high-speeds). It has circa 70k miles on it, and is obviously in the shop- as it is unsafe to drive. It was a warm day when it first did it (say 80deg), and cooler (50) the next morning.
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My 2009 sonata started having issues with slight up and down accelerations while cruising and the check engine light would come on Then during start up the engine would accelerate up and down about 1500 rpms. I have taken it to two dealers neither could find anything wrong and said their was no record of an event on the computer. Now the car is stalling while driving, once at highway speed. It has happened three time this week. After coming to a stop, I wait a few minutes and the car starts up like their is nothing wrong. The engine light comes on for a while.
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I have a 2001 Ford Mustang, V6, 3.8 Liters, automatic transmission, 120,000 miles. Recently, my car has started to stall/misfire at when I come to a full stop at a red light. It feels like the car is going to shut down and like it has no power. I have to press the gas really hard to get it to pick up power and speed. It doesn't happen every time and I've noticed that it happens less early in the morning or at night, and it happens more often during the day when it is really hot (I live in Az and temperatures are currently in the 100sF).
The "service engine" light is not turning on. The battery was checked and it's fine (recently replaced in September 2011). The alternator was changed 1 month ago. The cooling fan was replaced 1 month ago. I took it the the Ford agency and no codes are turning up and they can't seem to duplicate the problem even though the ran the car for 15 miles. They checked coils, spark plugs, fuel injectors, fuel filter, gas pump pressure, and it all seems fine. They advised that I fill up my gas tank with Premium gas and add fuel injector cleaning fluid. I did and the problem is still there. They then advised to fill up gas tank again with Premium and add Techrnon additive. I did and the problem is still there.
I am scared that my car will stall and turn off while doing a left turn with oncoming traffic or in the freeway.
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I have a 94 Cobra Mustang with a 5.0. For the past few months it has had an erratic Idle and stalls when trying to idle. I've had a number of suggestions on how to fix it and nothings seems to work. I checked for vacuum leaks, changed PCV, new plugs, new IAC valve, tested ICM and throttle TPS and even adjusted idle. Still no luck.
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Sometimes when I brake to come to a stop, my car loses power: the whole thing shudders, RPMs take a dive. It doesn't start immediately on braking. It starts when I am almost at a stop, but not at a full stop. If it's relevant, I generally brake quite gradually, starting several car lengths away. So there are several seconds between onset of braking and onset of power loss. It starts while the brake is depressed. It does not stop when I let up on the brake. It does stop when I depress the accelerator. If I am idling at a light, it might happen. If I am just going slow without braking, it doesn't happen. Braking is fine in all circumstances except coming to a full stop.
Details:'93 Mustang, 4-cyl, 2.3L, manual, fuel-injected
It's been doing this for years, actually, and yes, I've been just dealing with it instead of getting it checked out. Usually a little rev of the engine gets her through it. Last night, it actually stalled, several times in fact. It restarted, but it did take cranking it for a while for it to restart.
Now that I think about it, my battery might be up for replacement. It's probably around 7 years old, and the last 6 have been very light driving, maybe 3k per year. But like I said, this is an ongoing problem. What should I be thinking about besides the battery, and what is a mechanic likely to tell me?
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1990 Volvo 760 4 cyl. Turbo. Drove the car to work, everything fine. Got off work, car wouldn't start. Cranked but wouldn't start. It was getting spark. Changed the fuel filter, it ran perfect for a month. Drove it to town a month later, shut it off, then trying to start it, would crank and crank eventually start but run real rough. We got it home....barely.
Replaced the fuel filter again. Still wouldn't run right.
Replaced the fuel pressure regulator. Same problem.
Replaced the throttle positioning switch. Same problem. Replaced the air control valve. same problem.
Found out that this car has an on board diagnostic doo hickey.
Found out how to check each sensor and component individually.
All sensors and components are working. Checked both fuel pumps and they are working. If I unplug the air flow sensor and the air control valve sensor, I can start the car using starter fluid and it will idle all day with out missing a lick.If I plug in either one of the sensors, it will kill it immediately.I don’t know what else to do to make this machine run.
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The Speedometer cable in the car has been squeaking for A LONG time. I think maybe it's lost its lubrication. Needle jumps around a bit at fwy speeds, but still works fine, other than the annoying squeal. I know I could just have the whole speedometer removed and replaced, but to me it's an expense I'd rather save for when it actually breaks, if it ever does. It is not a Dangerous situation in my mind. How would I find where to actually see if the housing is cracked, or is this difficult for someone with limited skills?
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My 01 mustang gt which I have never had any problems with, well one day while coming home from school out of nowhere it didn't want to start at all ,all it did was a "clank" noise and I thought it was the battery so I got a friend to pass me cables but it still didn't start , but its a stick shift and I know that most of the time they start with a little push and it turned on and I was able to make it home but when I tried turning it on again it would just make a "clank" noise so I assumed it was the starter so I replaced it but it still didn't start so I went ahead and bought a new battery and now it started ,so I thought the problem was fixed but the next day around 7pm after using it for a while throughout the day all my electrical power shut down even my dashboard didn't mark anything but the car kept running until I made it home so I turned it off and tried turning it back on but it wouldn't start like the battery didn't have any power to make it start because the engine was trying so I left my battery charging for a couple of hours and it turned back on so I tried going to the corner store today but now my car shut down completely it left me on the middle of the street i got a friend to pull me and when I got home I charged my battery again and it runs again so I thought ok this has to be the alternator so I removed It and took it to O'Reilly auto parts and got it tested but it passed the test they told me it was good so what it might be ?
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This car has me stumped I've got a 67 mustang that is overheating only while driving I've replaced the radiator new 180 thermostat facing the proper way bypassed the heater core replaced the head gasket flushed the cooling system but after running vehicle for ten to fifteen minutes one side of the block is reading 178 degrees the other side is reading 240 in lost.
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A few weeks ago i had a surging idle issue very intermittently, and it went away for a while so i stopped thinking about it. Just got back from a weekend in vermont, about 130 miles each way, and i noticed as soon as i got to vermont and came to a stop sign it was surging, and when i just got home it was surging again. Why would this have picked back up after long stretches of running for a while? Runs great as far as i know, just have this surging idle for some reason.
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I have a 2006 Ford Mustang V6. Recently after driving and turning the car off the coolant has been spilling out through the cap of the coolant reservoir. The car drives fine and does not overheat so it appears the cooling system works while driving. I have not identified any visible leaks and the heat inside the car works. I have replaced the coolant reservoir cap, thermostat, and thermostat casing.
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My daughter's 2010 v6 Fusion has stalled twice (without warning) in the last month at 65+ mph. The dealer reported that since no fault codes were set, there were no repairs they could make to correct this very dangerous situation from recurring. What repairs were made to correct the problem. The car has only 23k miles and has been well maintained at the dealer.
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2003 Subaru Forester automatic non-turbo. Vehicle stalls out at long red lights. No sputter, shudder, or warning. Idle just drops to zero. May happen twice in one day or once in two or three months. No rhyme or reason. Runs great otherwise. No drivability issues until I am stopped. I replaced the idle air control (IAC) solenoid valve last week and thought I cured the problem. But the vehicle cut out on my wife while she was stopped, waiting to yield into traffic this evening.
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It is a '90 Nissan Maxima. I just replaced my drivers side axle (cv joint was clicking), and now my car vibrates at highway speeds when turning right. I am pretty sure I seated the axle correctly....could it be a bad axle? I heard that turning the axle 90 degrees and reinstalling may work? I got a new axle (Empi brand).
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I have a 2.0l Jetta that has been giving me problems for about a year now.
First, the car started dying out on me after long trips at en excessive rate where it would shut off and have trouble starting multiple times consistently. So I got the fuel lines cleaned, a new fuel filter, the fuel pump checked, and did a basic tune up by changing the sparks and oil.
Still the same problem. after some troubleshooting i gave up and decided to take it to the stealer dealer. after a $130 diagnostic fee and a $300 repair fee they told me that they had fixed it by replacing a speed sensor in the transmission. the car was noticeably running better and did not stall during the short driving i did. I am a student so not much driving was done initially. A couple of months later i took a ~150 mile trip and upon stopping at a red light and trying to go once the light turned green the car stalled.
I took it back to the dealer that told me they would check if the speed sensor was faulty. it was not and they could not refund me my money. i paid for another diagnostic for another $130 and this time they said it was a bad coil pack, a $400 repair fee that i was not going to pay. i went out and got myself a coil pack and installed it myself. still the same problem.
I met a guy that worked for the dealer and had the same tech as the dealers so i took the car to him. he had it for 2 days and drove it for over 80 miles to test run it. he could no replicate the problem and just charged me 80 dollars just for his time.
I decided to take matters into my own hands and I read on these forums a couple of common solutions to the problem such as changing cam,crank,speed sensors etc etc and i started out with the crank..then speed...etc etc.
2 days ago my water pump had been leaking and i believe the antifreeze caused the timing belt to slip about 3 teeth in the middle of driving. luckily no bent valves or any damage to the engine but i did have the push the car about half a mile. After a 5 hour job i replaced the pump and the timing belt along with the cam sensor. I drove it around 70 miles and everything seemed fine. just yesterday i drove around 120 miles and the car had a small stall about 50 miles in when i was at a red light. The rest of the trip it ran fine. As i got to my apartments I decided to see if i could replicate the stall since the engine was hot. I stopped and waited around 10 seconds and then stepped on the gas, the car did almost stall but it stayed on since i let go of the gas. I tried it again and it would no longer do it.
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I own a Jeep Grand Cherokee 2006 V8 4.7 with 133,000 miles. This week I went to a Quick Service Oil Change , after receiving an oil change they informed me I needed a Differential Fluid Change , that I "should have " had one at my last visit and couldn't wait any longer. After receiving the two , I left and not even fifteen minutes later , I attempted to use my breaks approaching the end of the highway.
Instantly the car started making an extremely long banging / thumping sounds along with the a lot of shaking and the car proceed to dead right there. I got it towed home , the company is supposed to send some one to come do a once over. What it could be? As sad as it sounds, I have a feeling they will do a look over and claim they don't know what is wrong or that it isn't there fault in any way.
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