Ford - Mustang :: 1970 - Won't Start Intermittently?
Aug 30, 2013
Purchased this car almost two years ago and it would typically start up no problems after sitting overnight or for a few hours. However, after running the car and then say turning it off to pump gas or just for a short stop, it never starts up right away. Just this week I had it taken to a friends repair shop (yeah, I know) and was told they moved/adjust distributor caps and checked carb and that they saw no other problems and they had it starting it up every time. They had suggested that what I needed to do was run the old gas (its only been sitting about 3 months) and keep running premium until we are certain that nothing remains in the tank except new gas, but assured me that the car was good to go and they sent me on my way.
Now, they didn't charge me, which is great, but I got what I "paid" for when I took the car out for about a 45 minute cruise, stopped for gas, and without fail the dang thing wouldn't start. A lovely citizen at the gas station raised the hood, fiddled with the carb, as he didn't think it was a battery issue, and was able to get the car going and get me home, but again, car wouldn't start about 20 minutes later. Hours later, out of curiosity, attempted and car started just fine.
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I have a 2014 V6 Mustang. Recently I've begun to smell that special scent of burning metal intermittently, more often at slower speeds or when stopped completely. In addition I've noticed that my mileage has been dropping a bit and that the car doesn't pick up quite as fast as it used to. Today on a hunch I put the car on a non-incline surface and let the clutch out relatively quickly. I was shocked to discover that it didn't stall - it absolutely would have when it was newer. The brakes also don't appear to be shedding dust so I don't think one of them is locking up.
Normally these would be signs of a clutch going bad. I'm suspicious because my car only has 25,000 miles on it. It has been driven through two Michigan winters and thus subjected to some abuse, but even if I were riding the clutch daily (I would never) I would be surprised to see it go out so young. Should I be looking at something else, or should I just break down, go to the dealer, and fight with them until they replace it?
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I drive a 1970 Jeep Cj5 which I've dubbed, "The Red Bucket" because, well, it's red (duh) and because of its complete lack of doors, top, roll cage, and a folded down windshield. Anyway, I drove it to work about 2 days ago. Started fine, drove fine, no problems. When I came back from work it started fine. As I drove down the parking garage, the engine, a Buick Dauntless v6, just stopped. it didn't really even sputter either, just stopped, leaving me rolling down the garage with no power steering.
Now, at this point, I just though I had flooded it, happens all the time so I figured, "Hey, no big deal." If I've flooded it good, I normally only have to wait about 10 minutes till it springs back to life. However, after 10 minutes, 20 minutes, and 30 minutes, I was forced to call home to get a ride. Now I am a little worried, but I shrug it off thinking I have just flooded it really, really, really, bad. I drive up the next day to try and start it again, but only to find it in the same condition as the day before, starter turning, lights working, but still nothing.
Now, my knowledge of cars really doesn't go any farther than YouTube. I'd consider myself a "car guy," but I am no mechanic. That being said, based on my knowledge of distributor caps, my current hypothesis is that for whatever reason my distributor cap is not functioning. To go into more detail, there is starter noise, but no vibration or noise from pistons beginning to move and fire. Also, roll starting did not work and I am not out of gas, good thoughts though.
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A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
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I've had my car sitting for 3 weeks and went out this morning to start it and it turns over but won't start. It has fuel and the battery seems to be providing enough power to the starter. It ran fine 3 weeks ago and I have not done any repairs recently that would be cause for the problem, I also changed the oil a month ago.
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it's been parked for about 2 months in my driveway, which slants upwards. I cranked it for a solid 30 minutes (jumped the battery so it wouldn't die). I don't smell gas so I think gas isn't making to the motor.
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I have a 1967 Ford Mustang. I drive in mainly on the weekends. The carb is rebuilt within the last six months. I installed a new alternator about a month ago. The battery was leaking and so the car stopped running one day. I just put in a brand new battery. It still won't start. It feels like it's trying to start but just won't turn over. I did clean the terminals and lubricated them as well when I installed the new battery.
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1992 Ford Mustang 5 spd 2.3l 4 cylinder. So a couple weeks ago, i got into my car and tried to crank it. I got one click then nothing. That's what I get whenever i turn the key. Not the repetitive clicking when the battery is low. After I found another ride home, I did some research and determined that it was probably the starter solenoid. I took a trip to Autozone and replaced the solenoid, but when i tried to crank it, one click then nothing. In order to get my car out of the school parking lot, I popped the clutch and got it running. Now, I'm stuck as to what the problem could be. I'm thinking it might be the starter itself, but it might also be the ignition switch.
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1993 5.0 mustang. The car wil start but will not stay idling. if the accelerator is gunned, it will run. The car has been tuned up (cap, rotor, plugs, air & fuel filter, also oil and filter). We thought maybe the fuel was old as it had been sitting for a few months so we drained out the old fuel and put in some fresh gas...Still the same issue. Got ahold of a fuel pressure tester from the loaner program at Autozone. The guy behind the counter looked up the spec and said it should be between 35 and 40 PSI. After putting the gauge on the Mustang, we got a reading of 30 PSI. Would this reading cause the current issue? Is a new fuel pump in this car's future?
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I have a '68 302 2 barrel carb Mustang and cannot get it to start! I have spark and I have gas getting into the carburetor. It turns but does not start. I'm at a loss and cannot figure out what to do.
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Simple question: Is it possible that battery problem/corrosion in battery cables would allow car to crank but not start on first try when cold? (Car normally starts on 2nd or 3rd try). I've read some places that if car cranks its not a battery problem but I'm not convinced.
Background:I have a 98 Ford Mustang (approx 140,000 miles) that occasionally has trouble starting. Car normally takes 2 to 3 tries to start first thing in the morning or if it has been sitting for a while. It always cranks but doesn't turn over. I had it in the auto repair shop, they said it had to do with IAC valve being stuck open. They recommended to replace throttle air by-pass valve. The repair was done and when I came to pick up the car I heard it take three tries to start before they brought it to me from the back. I asked about it, so the service advisor said he would go and talk to the tech, he said he talked to the tech and that there was a lot of carbon that he had cleaned out and maybe remaining carbon in the system caused problem, I got the idea that they seemed to think everything was fine if I had any problems I could bring it back. The car became even harder to start, now taking up to 8 tries. I brought it back and they said that the new IAC had to be adjusted to allow more air. I picked up the car, they said it was fine, but now it still takes 2 to 3 tries to start it first thing in the morning.
In the past, I have had trouble with battery and battery terminal corrosion, have had new terminal ends put on my battery a few times, last time was probably about 6 months ago. Terminal ends look very corroded again. I'm thinking about just asking them to replace the battery cables and see what happens.
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So 3 times in the last 2 days, my car has needed a jump start. Took it to pepboys and they told me to replace the battery, a new battery later, my car wouldn't start again and I needed to get it jump started again. Took it back to pepboys, they say everything checks out fine including the battery and the alternator and that it should work fine. This happens to be exactly what they said the last time.
The car is a 2012 Ford Mustang V6 convertible.
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My car sometimes shuts off when I attempt to start the car. I start the car, hear a loud click and the electricity to the entire car dies. No dome lights, no headlights, no radio. I disconnect the negative terminal and re-connect and all power comes back.
The weird part is, sometimes it DOES start. Sometimes it starts on the first try, sometimes I have to disconnect/re-connect 9 or 10 times before it'll eventually start. Once it starts it never loses power or has any issues. What could it possibly be?!
I've ruled out the battery, as it's literally brand new. The connections to the battery terminals seem VERY secure (I've re-done them a few times) and there's no corrosion at all. I sandpapered to be sure. I've also ruled out the fuel pump (obviously).
Could an aftermarket alarm system inherited from a previous owner be doing this? Could there be an issue with the starter? A connection issue elsewhere? Is there any way I can track down the issue on my own?
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Early 70's Ford Truck w/Dana 20 Xfer case
The problem is that when I put the truck in 4W Low, it will sometimes slip out of gear into 4W Neutral. It happens more often when climbing hills than driving on level ground. It hasn't ever slipped out of 4W High. It is drivable the way it is, but it's annoying. If there were an easy fix I'd do it. If I have to remove the xfer case, that seems like a big job, so probably not. What do you think?
The manual suggests these four as possible reasons
Shifting poppet spring weak.
Bearing broken or worn.
Shifting fork bent.
Improper control rod adjustment.
Which is the most likely problem? What is the "poppet" for and where is it located? Can anything be done to diagnose or fix this problem w/out removing the xfer case from the vehicle? What about the control rod? Can it be adjusted with the xfer case installed? If so, where is that adjusted?
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I love my '86 Mustang GT convertible. Currently at 106,000 miles and running strong. The problem is searching at idle. I have replaced every sensor that me and my mechanic can think of. New plugs and wires along with rotor and distributor cap. The engine will start searching, i.e. idling up and down, and at time stall. If I apply slight pressure and idle up to 1,000 RPM the searching stops. Hard to do sometimes as this is a stick.
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It has a floor shifter for the xfer case with 2wd, 4wd-H,and 4wd-L, and Neutral positions. It works fine in the 2wd and the 4wd-H positions. The problem is it sometimes slips out of 4wd-L position into 4wd-Neutral, which I have just lived with, but it is annoying. I think I heard this is a known problem with these 1970's Ford xfer cases, and the fix involves removing the xfer case and replacing a part.
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I have a 1970 f250 with a factory 390 (vin verified) and a C6, I believe the transmission was rebuilt but have no way to verify. It works fine while cold and mildly warm. Once heat soaked it is very slow to shift (going from neutral to reverse can take almost 30 sec) and leaks profusely from the front. I can not tell exactly where the leak is. Could this be a case of just having too much fluid or is there a more serious concern? The dipstick does read high but level ground in my area is hard to come by so the accuracy can be questioned. If it does have to much fluid, do I just drain the pan, re-install and let it run till hot and replace fluid as needed or should I drain and replace with 3 qrts prior to starting?
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Like the title says my 98 stang will not start when the engine is hot. It starts perfectly when the engine is cold. When the engine is at normal operating temp the starter cranks like normal but the engine will not catch. If i give it a little gas while cranking it the engine will start until i take my foot off the gas then it shuts down. after i leave the car for about and hour it will start. I have new plugs, wires, alternator, fuel filter, air filter and my last oil change was three weeks ago. the battery holds a good 12.6v, I had the timing fixed in june. I jumped the fuel pump relay and there is good pressure up to the fuel filter.
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2000 Mustang was running fine. It hasn't been driven in a couple of days, and now wont start. No noise in the tank, fuel pump not working. But when you spray gas into the throttle body it wont even try to hit. Fuses under the hood beside the battery are all good. Inerta switch is down and in place. Am I missing something? maybe a relay? I would just think no matter what, getting fuel into the opening of the throttle would cause the car to at least cough.
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I have a 1970 Pontiac GTO that i am restoring. It has the original matching numbers YS Code 400 HO engine. When I got it a few months back, it sounded pretty rough. We removed a valve cover and found a bent push rod. At that point we decided a complete rebuild was in order. We removed the motor and transmission from the car. I'm want to know if the transmission is original to the car but I don't know how to check the numbers for that. However, I could have found a clue. When we cleaned the motor and transmission I found the motor had been painted twice - the factory color with another blue over the top of it; the transmission had never been painted! Did GM ever produce cars and send them out with unpainted transmissions or has it just been replaced at some point?
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I've begun restoring my grandpas 1970 Chevy c/10 but I can't seem to get the brake drums to budge. I tried several cans of lubricant and even beat on one with a sledge hammer till the outside broke off. But the front face of the drum still won't come off. How to remove them?
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