I have a '68 302 2 barrel carb Mustang and cannot get it to start! I have spark and I have gas getting into the carburetor. It turns but does not start. I'm at a loss and cannot figure out what to do.
View 19 RepliesI've had my car sitting for 3 weeks and went out this morning to start it and it turns over but won't start. It has fuel and the battery seems to be providing enough power to the starter. It ran fine 3 weeks ago and I have not done any repairs recently that would be cause for the problem, I also changed the oil a month ago.
View 8 RepliesI have a 1968 Mustang with a straight 6. From all the research that I could do, the engine appears to be correct for the car.
I replaced the starter with one from AutoZone - DuraLast. The starter engages fine - no noise and the car starts fine. The noise comes when the starter disengages. The noise only last a few seconds. Sometimes it is very loud other times it is very brief.
I did a compare of the old starter to the new starter and noticed that the gear in the old starter sites further back in the starter housing then the new starter. Not sure if that is the issue. I have tried to do some searches to get some views of the starter but no luck.
My Ranger was running great when suddenly on the highway it just died. I towed it to local nationally known brake/ muffler shop where a good friend is the manager. He narrowed it down (guessed in my opinion) to no spark and no fuel. He thinks it could be the crank sensor, the fuel pump or the ignition module. Is there any way to pinpoint the problem without replacing parts? It will sometimes start and run for about 2 seconds before shutting off. It will not repeat this unless it sits for a day or two. I am not sure if there are different 2.3 engines available but mine is fuel injection and has two sets of spark plugs and wires.
View 9 RepliesMy son has a 03 mustang GT. He called and said it was making a loud clicking sound. I investigated and it appeared to have a exhaust leak, but I couldn't feel where it was coming from. I started tearing down until I got to the plugs. One of them blew out if the head. I was shocked. Have you heard of this in a car? I'd heard the Ford trucks had problems with the plugs blowing out. Its fixed and running like a champ now.
View 14 RepliesI have a 95 stang that I just had refilled with Freon and oil at Ice Cold Air. The compressor turns on then cuts off as if its low on Freon but its not. Last night the ac started blowing cold and was this morning then started back on the compressor turning on then off. I know it has Freon in it and is full. Could it be that the orifice tube is clogged or maybe even the drier? is this something that I could take off and try to clean out?
View 14 RepliesI've got a 89 ford Thunderbird that I've replaced coil and all other things i can think of but still no spark. I pulled the plug which connects to the coil pack and tested the positive side of plug and not hot with key on then i went to back side of plug and got a hot.
View 1 RepliesA cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1998 Saturn SL1. My problem that I am having is I can start the car maybe once a day if I am lucky. About 2 minutes later it just dies.
The car has full electrical power and I can turn the starter over and fuel pump sounds like its working. I am pretty sure its not sparking.
it's been parked for about 2 months in my driveway, which slants upwards. I cranked it for a solid 30 minutes (jumped the battery so it wouldn't die). I don't smell gas so I think gas isn't making to the motor.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1967 Ford Mustang. I drive in mainly on the weekends. The carb is rebuilt within the last six months. I installed a new alternator about a month ago. The battery was leaking and so the car stopped running one day. I just put in a brand new battery. It still won't start. It feels like it's trying to start but just won't turn over. I did clean the terminals and lubricated them as well when I installed the new battery.
View 1 RepliesPurchased this car almost two years ago and it would typically start up no problems after sitting overnight or for a few hours. However, after running the car and then say turning it off to pump gas or just for a short stop, it never starts up right away. Just this week I had it taken to a friends repair shop (yeah, I know) and was told they moved/adjust distributor caps and checked carb and that they saw no other problems and they had it starting it up every time. They had suggested that what I needed to do was run the old gas (its only been sitting about 3 months) and keep running premium until we are certain that nothing remains in the tank except new gas, but assured me that the car was good to go and they sent me on my way.
Now, they didn't charge me, which is great, but I got what I "paid" for when I took the car out for about a 45 minute cruise, stopped for gas, and without fail the dang thing wouldn't start. A lovely citizen at the gas station raised the hood, fiddled with the carb, as he didn't think it was a battery issue, and was able to get the car going and get me home, but again, car wouldn't start about 20 minutes later. Hours later, out of curiosity, attempted and car started just fine.
1992 Ford Mustang 5 spd 2.3l 4 cylinder. So a couple weeks ago, i got into my car and tried to crank it. I got one click then nothing. That's what I get whenever i turn the key. Not the repetitive clicking when the battery is low. After I found another ride home, I did some research and determined that it was probably the starter solenoid. I took a trip to Autozone and replaced the solenoid, but when i tried to crank it, one click then nothing. In order to get my car out of the school parking lot, I popped the clutch and got it running. Now, I'm stuck as to what the problem could be. I'm thinking it might be the starter itself, but it might also be the ignition switch.
View 1 Replies1993 5.0 mustang. The car wil start but will not stay idling. if the accelerator is gunned, it will run. The car has been tuned up (cap, rotor, plugs, air & fuel filter, also oil and filter). We thought maybe the fuel was old as it had been sitting for a few months so we drained out the old fuel and put in some fresh gas...Still the same issue. Got ahold of a fuel pressure tester from the loaner program at Autozone. The guy behind the counter looked up the spec and said it should be between 35 and 40 PSI. After putting the gauge on the Mustang, we got a reading of 30 PSI. Would this reading cause the current issue? Is a new fuel pump in this car's future?
View 7 RepliesSimple question: Is it possible that battery problem/corrosion in battery cables would allow car to crank but not start on first try when cold? (Car normally starts on 2nd or 3rd try). I've read some places that if car cranks its not a battery problem but I'm not convinced.
Background:I have a 98 Ford Mustang (approx 140,000 miles) that occasionally has trouble starting. Car normally takes 2 to 3 tries to start first thing in the morning or if it has been sitting for a while. It always cranks but doesn't turn over. I had it in the auto repair shop, they said it had to do with IAC valve being stuck open. They recommended to replace throttle air by-pass valve. The repair was done and when I came to pick up the car I heard it take three tries to start before they brought it to me from the back. I asked about it, so the service advisor said he would go and talk to the tech, he said he talked to the tech and that there was a lot of carbon that he had cleaned out and maybe remaining carbon in the system caused problem, I got the idea that they seemed to think everything was fine if I had any problems I could bring it back. The car became even harder to start, now taking up to 8 tries. I brought it back and they said that the new IAC had to be adjusted to allow more air. I picked up the car, they said it was fine, but now it still takes 2 to 3 tries to start it first thing in the morning.
In the past, I have had trouble with battery and battery terminal corrosion, have had new terminal ends put on my battery a few times, last time was probably about 6 months ago. Terminal ends look very corroded again. I'm thinking about just asking them to replace the battery cables and see what happens.
My 1968 F250 blows hot air with all controls set to off. The truck is fairly new to me and I'm a complete newb with a wrench....or screwdriver.....I think this should be a fairly easy fix? Aside from that it does work well.....it just doesn't shut all the way off.
View 1 RepliesSo 3 times in the last 2 days, my car has needed a jump start. Took it to pepboys and they told me to replace the battery, a new battery later, my car wouldn't start again and I needed to get it jump started again. Took it back to pepboys, they say everything checks out fine including the battery and the alternator and that it should work fine. This happens to be exactly what they said the last time.
The car is a 2012 Ford Mustang V6 convertible.
My car sometimes shuts off when I attempt to start the car. I start the car, hear a loud click and the electricity to the entire car dies. No dome lights, no headlights, no radio. I disconnect the negative terminal and re-connect and all power comes back.
The weird part is, sometimes it DOES start. Sometimes it starts on the first try, sometimes I have to disconnect/re-connect 9 or 10 times before it'll eventually start. Once it starts it never loses power or has any issues. What could it possibly be?!
I've ruled out the battery, as it's literally brand new. The connections to the battery terminals seem VERY secure (I've re-done them a few times) and there's no corrosion at all. I sandpapered to be sure. I've also ruled out the fuel pump (obviously).
Could an aftermarket alarm system inherited from a previous owner be doing this? Could there be an issue with the starter? A connection issue elsewhere? Is there any way I can track down the issue on my own?
I'm trying to replace the spark plugs of my 2006 Prius, but the deep well 5/8 socket attached to a 2 in extender just turns loose, as if it does not fit in the top of the spark plug. I tried also 3/4 and 13/16 but those don't even fit in the spark plug well. I tried in another spark plug to the same result. Problem to replace to spark plugs?
View 7 RepliesWhen driving cool it runs great but as soon as temp gets to 205 degrees and idling, it start to bog down and shouts off. When engine cools it will start right up. It has a rubber gas line that feels very warm, we put a sleeve over rubber hose and didn't work.
View 18 Replies1968 C-850 Super Duty. Cannot find the brake fluid reservoir on this Hahn Firetruck.
View 1 Replies