This car has me stumped I've got a 67 mustang that is overheating only while driving I've replaced the radiator new 180 thermostat facing the proper way bypassed the heater core replaced the head gasket flushed the cooling system but after running vehicle for ten to fifteen minutes one side of the block is reading 178 degrees the other side is reading 240 in lost.
View 19 RepliesI have a 1967 Ford Mustang. I drive in mainly on the weekends. The carb is rebuilt within the last six months. I installed a new alternator about a month ago. The battery was leaking and so the car stopped running one day. I just put in a brand new battery. It still won't start. It feels like it's trying to start but just won't turn over. I did clean the terminals and lubricated them as well when I installed the new battery.
View 1 RepliesThe 289 V-8 of my 66 Mustang was rebuilt and now runs very hot. I have difficulty starting it whether cold or hot?
View 16 RepliesI have a 67 chevelle and it runs great but after driving it a while it starts backfiring. I think it is when it gets hot, is this possible and why is it running hot. It is a straight 6. 3 on a tree. Smaller engine like a 250 or something. Original engine and everything. I have had the car since I was 16, now I am 40. Somehow I still don't know how to fix it.
View 12 RepliesMy mechanic put in a button starter which works pretty good. It is "touchy" and I need to hit the gas just right to get it to catch. Once it starts it runs beautifully but the battery seems to drain instead of charge while driving. When I turn the car off,and then try to start it again, the battery sounds really low, and often dies before I can get it to turn over again. It fires right up with the first sign of a jump. The mechanic has looked for an ignition (says he cant find the right one). Other people have suggested an alternator or voltage regulator....or a short somewhere.
View 8 RepliesMy 01 mustang gt which I have never had any problems with, well one day while coming home from school out of nowhere it didn't want to start at all ,all it did was a "clank" noise and I thought it was the battery so I got a friend to pass me cables but it still didn't start , but its a stick shift and I know that most of the time they start with a little push and it turned on and I was able to make it home but when I tried turning it on again it would just make a "clank" noise so I assumed it was the starter so I replaced it but it still didn't start so I went ahead and bought a new battery and now it started ,so I thought the problem was fixed but the next day around 7pm after using it for a while throughout the day all my electrical power shut down even my dashboard didn't mark anything but the car kept running until I made it home so I turned it off and tried turning it back on but it wouldn't start like the battery didn't have any power to make it start because the engine was trying so I left my battery charging for a couple of hours and it turned back on so I tried going to the corner store today but now my car shut down completely it left me on the middle of the street i got a friend to pull me and when I got home I charged my battery again and it runs again so I thought ok this has to be the alternator so I removed It and took it to O'Reilly auto parts and got it tested but it passed the test they told me it was good so what it might be ?
View 18 RepliesI have a 2006 Ford Mustang V6. Recently after driving and turning the car off the coolant has been spilling out through the cap of the coolant reservoir. The car drives fine and does not overheat so it appears the cooling system works while driving. I have not identified any visible leaks and the heat inside the car works. I have replaced the coolant reservoir cap, thermostat, and thermostat casing.
View 4 RepliesMy 1990 mustang 5.0 LX has a very consistent stalling problem when travelling long distance on the highway at a good speed. After 2 hours of driving highway speeds and then pulling off the highway, the car stalls after I brake or stop at a light. I don't know why this seems braking related, but not sure. I then sit and crank the motor and it cranks for a bit and starts right up. I think it's fuel, but now sure yet.
Here's what I have done:1. Tune-up: plugs, wires, cap, rotor2. new fuel pressure regulator3. new fuel filter4. new fuel cap5. Checked for vacuum leaks (none found)
It seems to not happen when the gas tank is low, but I can't swear to it.
I'm going to run a fuel pressure gauge to the futhel rail and see if I can catch the drop off of fuel pressure when it occurs. Also, I noticed that the gas cap does not hiss when I unscrew it at any point in time.
My 289 has had the following done: Rebuilt and cleaned the Carb, inside and out. Dropped the tank, acid bath cleaned and sealed Cleaned and restored the sending unit All new gas line filters (twice) for a total of 4 new filters, the gas is pristine by the time it get to carb. new points, new condenser, new plugs, new rotor... all gaped correctly (checked twice) new oil, new filter. Brand new fuel pump. Checked and Tightened and Re-Tightened all the bolts, plugs wire, bolts nuts.
The car will sit there and Idle if I don't touch anything, but stalls when I give it gas. I have also tried to check for vacuum leaks using both the carb cleaner way AND the propane method. Now I will say that both sides of my exhaust manifold pipes are falling off, slightly so it is hard to hear for vacuum leaks. Would that cause a car to stall? or Am I missing a very simple step?
67' Ford Ranchero (289 V8)
I cannot find specs for Points on my truck. My dad use to set them using a match book cover. Not that talented! Should condenser automatically be changed with points. 352 engine FYI
View 4 RepliesWindstar 3.8 engine van overheats when driving on the highway. Head gaskets, water pump and thermo has been changed over the last few months.
View 14 RepliesI have a 67 Econoline supervan, and have been getting a grinding noise out of the rear end at certain rpm's. It's only under heavy load, when I'm first accelerating, that the noise comes out. Now here's the question, is this the wheel bearings, or my rear differential in dire need of attention? Now, the only thing I've done so far to remedy it is change the differential oil, to no avail.
View 10 RepliesI have an '04 EX Limited 6.0L. This past January while driving in CO from TX the truck overheated while driving stop and go in a small area looking for a particular store. The fan kicked in as it should have and it cooled some, but I begin to notice during the trip that anytime I was sitting still it would overheat. I had front and rear AC controls on heat as it was very cold. When driving normal speeds engine temps would cool down. The Heater would begin to blow cold air as the temp would rise when sitting still or barely moving. Got home and found radiator a little low of fluid and filled to just below the modified full line.
Fast forward 5 months. I've had no problems at all since until about 2 weeks ago I noticed the smell of antifreeze every time I would exit the truck. The degas bottle still looked full if you checked it cold or once you depressurized the system. No signs of puking. This past Friday after driving home from about an hour away I had to stop at a particularly long stop light and the AC began to blow hot air. I checked my temps(scanguageII) and it was getting hotter the longer I sat. Checked degas bottle when I got home no problems. I've been trying to get it to do this again but no luck. Suspected that it may be the heater core for the rear AC, but turning it on in any temp hasn't duplicated results.
I have a 92 Ford Taurus that runs warm, can overheat, especially in city driving. When driving at faster speeds with less stopping does not give any trouble. The radiator is full. I tried putting a new thermostat in and it overheat just the same. I took it out and it would run warm but not overheat. I flushed out the tranny. There are not leaks. Seems like water will come out to easy from the radiator cap. Thinking maybe it is blocked up some inside the engine. Can a water pump be kicking in and out at lower RPM's
View 15 RepliesI have a fuel pump I want to install I want to hook this thing up on a switch inside the cabin to be used as kind of a security device, but I am hoping I can wire it into the ignition as well.... I want the pump to activate when the ignition is turned on but only if the (hidden from view) switch is in the "on" position. Not sure if all this is possible.
I have heard I ought to utilize a relay to avoid voltage loss at the pump. I have never hooked up a relay to anything before although I have heard of them being used. This system is being installed on a 1967 F250.
I recently changed the clutch in my 1967 F 250, all was golden. This was about 5 months ago , just the other day when going from 2nd to 3rd gear there is a clang and popping feel. the truck was making similar noises before the clutch blew out causing me to change it last time.
View 1 Replies2004 F250 6.0 L. New head gaskets, ARP studs, new oil cooler, new water pump, all new hoses, new thermostat, 4" exhaust, EGR delete, new coolant bottle, radiator and cooling system flush, new injector seals and oil rail plugs all done at 98,000 miles. The truck is at 119,000 now and has been doing great since all the work. I have been frequently hauling very heavy loads and pulling cars on trailers and no problems. EOT has been staying about 7 degrees above ECT except on hill climbs. No coolant loss at all. Today suddenly while driving on the freeway (unloaded) the temps spiked. I pulled over when the ECT hit 240. Once cooled down I checked coolant level, hoses etc and since all was fine I took off again. Overheated again after about 5 miles. My understanding was that the Ford thermostat fails open if it fails. Do I have that wrong? Do I have a stuck thermostat? Some other problem?
View 14 RepliesThe transmission was rebuilt approximately 8,000 miles ago. It now shifts erratically instead of smoothly when you take off from a dead stop. Sometimes it will go from 1st to 3rd. When you come to a stop, it downshifts erratically also. The fluid level is correct. The truck is a 1967 GMC pick-up with 1969 350 engine. Transmission about the same year.
View 3 RepliesMy 2004 v8 with 100,000 miles is running hot. The fluids are all topped off. When I start it up she warms up normally in around 5-10 minutes and the water is 200 but as the oil temp comes up the water goes up as well. After 15 minutes of driving the oil is at 200-220 and the water is 230-245. the fans are coming on but so far no lights or warnings.
Is this the sign of emanate water pump failure? I think the thermostat is OK because for the first 5-10 minutes it runs normally. Putting the heater on get the temp down a little. I am thinking I should drive my truck and order the timing belt, water pump kit! Is it possible that the oil pump or system isn't functioning properly?
I drive a 1999 Malibu 6 cylinder M 3.1L, and this past week it has had a big issue. I noticed when driving to work that it started to heat higher than normal, then drop back down to a normal temp. It kept getting worse and almost overheating, so I went and bought a new thermostat (as I was told that was probably the issue) and a new radiator cap since I knew mine was old and leaked a little bit. Before putting the thermostat in, I had a neighbor look at it, and found some gunk in the coolant tank.
I took it in to get a coolant flush, but when I told the guy at the shop what I found, he told me that because these Chevy's used dexcool, if any other coolant was used, it would gel and therefore start clogging my system and that a flush would do nothing, and that I was looking at a repair that would be more than I was willing to pay.
My question for all of you is should I still go in to get someone to really look at it, get it flushed and put the new thermostat in? Or is the situation that the last mechanic presented probably the issue? I'm pretty broke, and don't want to spend money that I don't have to. But, if $100 will allow my car to run for awhile longer, I would rather do that then have it sit and die while I take the bus.
My 03 Buick century is overheating. I changed the thermostat and the water pump. And still overheats as soon As I start driving. I am also getting when it is overheating some misfiring in cylindar 1. I am going to reflush and bleed the coolant even though it seems to be full . i dont think it is disappearing. Is it Possible i have a blown headgasket or intake manifold leak?
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