Ford - Mustang :: 1966 - Rebuilt Engine Overheating?
Jan 22, 2011
The 289 V-8 of my 66 Mustang was rebuilt and now runs very hot. I have difficulty starting it whether cold or hot?
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Jan 22, 2011
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Ford - Mustang :: 1967 - Overheating Only While Driving
This car has me stumped I've got a 67 mustang that is overheating only while driving I've replaced the radiator new 180 thermostat facing the proper way bypassed the heater core replaced the head gasket flushed the cooling system but after running vehicle for ten to fifteen minutes one side of the block is reading 178 degrees the other side is reading 240 in lost.
View 19 RepliesFord - Ranger :: Front And Rear Main Seals Leaking On Rebuilt Engine
The engine runs beautifully, but we cannot stop an oil leak. The Machine Shop replaced the front and rear main crank seal three times and it is still leaking. We took the truck to Ford who put the dye in and checked for the leak with a black light.Their analysis was that they would START with the oil pan gasket. We then took that info to the Machine Shop who said they could see the oil leaking from the rear main and front seal again and replaced the seals in it again. There is still oil leaking from the engine. From the same place. Why we can't seem to stop the leak,and ultimately how to fix the problem?
View 15 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: Replaced Many Parts / Rebuilt Engine But Got Codes P0345 / P0022 Again?
I'm having the well known situation with P0345, P0022
Replaced both phasers, replaced cam sensor, checked timing (properly aligned), assembled back still running rough and rattling, used 10w40 oil,
Complete rebuilt engine, we did head work new seals and springs, valves are straight I had it checked out twice for assurance. New pistons, new rings, new bearings, new oil pump and seals of course. If I disconnect cam sensor Bank 2 it works fine but still runs a little rough.
- Replaced one tensioner due to gasket wear.
- I was told to check on alternator ground (it's missing I know cause it got broken and I haven't replaced that ground that goes into the engine.)
- I also was told change oil to 5w20 and filter (Not FRAM), add some lucas and it should be the fix.
- Also told to disconnect the oil pressure sensor and it would fix the problem but it will throw a code for that.
- I haven't replaced the timing chains I feel they're a little loose but they haven't jumped the teeth, so I guess they're good.
- I saw in one thread to move a teeth on phaser giving me code bank 2 (moved one teeth back and then one teeth forward but it didn't work)
When I first rebuilt the engine I was having the rough iddle then I scanned it and it gave me the cam positioning sensor code P0345, then after I replaced it problem got fixed and code was gone, I was using the truck for 2 days with no issues, then the problem cam back with the two codes P0345 and P0022!
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Engine Rebuilt / Now Trans Doesn't Engage
Paid a shop 9000 to rebuild engine. Went to pick it had a major oil leak from back of the motor. They pulled the Trans and resealed the back plate. I test drove the truck and had some boost leaks and the AC needed charged. They pulled the truck in this morning and fixed those items. Now the truck will not move in any gear.
View 7 RepliesFord Wiring/Electrical :: 1966 F100 - Ignition Totally Cut Out
Just got a 66 f100. Some one cut out the ignition. It has a toggle switch that doesn't seem to do anything, turned it to on and used a screwdriver to short the solenoid and it did not crank. I think I counted 9 cut wires in the area of the ignition counting 2 for the toggle. My other 61-66 trucks seem to just have five wires? So I can remove an ignition from one of these parts trucks, but might there be a difference since the gauges are unique to 1966 ?
Started to take the ignition out of my 62 f600 but i hate to cut wires but i must since there is no remnant of an ignition in the 66 f100. If I can match the five wires i should be ok. Just putting a battery in i have headlights, tailights and dash lights. Solenoid and cable to starter look horrible so i bought a new cable. I think i have a good solenoid or two? I didn't even get a spark when i shorted the solenoid with a screwdriver....
Toyota - Camry :: 2007 - AC Not Working After Installation Of Rebuilt Engine
We have a 2007 toyota camry 2.4l which had a engine problem so car needed a rebuilt engine. so we went to auto repair shop and they installed a rebuilt engine.But when we went to pickup the car the owner of the shop said our a/c is not working and he doesn't know why. he said its a/c compressor clutch is not working. the a/c was working fine before the engine installation. when I talk to other people (different mechanics) they all say that the repair shop who installed the engine caused the a/c problem. How can I prove that so I maybe can sue the guy in a small claims court? for a good gesture the owner of the shop offered us free labor on installation of a/c compressor but not on part which I can bring my own. I need detail argument. people say that in order to win in a small claims court we need many supporting explanation from experts. we just want the a/c to work again. car drives fine after new rebuilt engine.
View 10 RepliesChevrolet - Tracker :: 2003 - Noisy Engine After Rebuilt - Replaced 3 Times?
2003 Chevy Tracker 4 cylinder. Engine rebuilt and cannot get lifters to quiet down. Replaced 3 times. Bent valves on first install.
View 3 RepliesFord - Mustang :: 1995 - Engine Is Making Rattling Noise
I have a 1995 Ford Mustang GT. I've had it for 4 years now, and the engine rattles mostly when the RPMs are between 1500 and 2000, just after pressing the gas. Sometimes it does it when the RPMs are higher, around 2500, and sometimes it does it regardless of RPM after I've been driving it for a long duration. It's done this since I bought it, so it's not a pressing issue, but I'd still like to get it fixed.
View 10 RepliesFord - Mustang :: Coolant Spill Out When Take Off The Radiator Cap On Cold Engine
I got a 2002 mustang v6 and I hadn't flushed the coolant since 5 years ago so I decided to take off the radiator cap off too check the status of the coolant. As I took the cap off, coolant started to slowly spill out of it so I quickly put the cap right on. What causing this? My car was already cooled down and it can't be a head gasket problem cause I don't see white smoke. And I don't see any leaks from hoses and water pump . I park my car outside could it be the sun heating it up and making the coolant flowing out when I take the cap off? What causing this?
View 12 RepliesVolvo :: 1966 - Brakes Don't Work?
I have a Volvo P1800 I am restoring. The problem I have is the brakes don't work. The brake peddle does to the floor so I think and have read that this is due to the master brake cylinder. I removed the to of the master reservoir and found it is bone dry but the main reservoir is full? Why this is if the seals have failed surely there would still be brake fluid in the master reservoir???
View 3 RepliesFord - Mustang :: 1986 - Engine Will Start Searching / Idling Up Down And At Time Stall
I love my '86 Mustang GT convertible. Currently at 106,000 miles and running strong. The problem is searching at idle. I have replaced every sensor that me and my mechanic can think of. New plugs and wires along with rotor and distributor cap. The engine will start searching, i.e. idling up and down, and at time stall. If I apply slight pressure and idle up to 1,000 RPM the searching stops. Hard to do sometimes as this is a stick.
View 4 RepliesPontiac :: 1966 - Lights Malfunction / Blinkers Don't Blink
the blinkers keep working and not working now they aren't of course.. but the left one only worked then something happened and the left only stayed on (not blinking) when the head lights were on. then it switched now they don't turn on at all. the fuses are good the relay is good all the wires are good I got new bulbs in as well and pointers. it's a Pontiac starchief 1966 and the flasher is good
View 1 RepliesPontiac :: 1966 - Start But Won't Idle And Motor Slowly Dies?
My car will start up but wont idle when it idle it starts to die and gas just overflows thee carb and the motor slowly dies. Its a 1966 pontiac starchief with a rochester carb and 421....
View 12 RepliesPlymouth :: 1966 - Installing Power Steering - Changing Rusted Floor Panels
I have a 1966 Plymouth Fury 2, and I have a few questions regarding fixing this up.
These cars had the option of having power steering, however, the original owner when purchased did not want that feature. I was curious as to how much trouble it would be to add power steering to my car. It's not that hard to drive with no power steering, but the steering wheel is massive and I imagine it would have to be to be able to move into tight spots at slow speeds. Also, though, driving with ease would be a plus, and not accidentally elbowing my woman in the face when I make a turn would be a plus as well.
The floor panels are rusted, which is normal for older cars. But, is there a way to repair this that doesn't involve welding? Is there a site online that specializes in older car parts?
Mustang :: Gaskets Squeals After The Engine Is Shut Off
1998 v6 3.8 upper and lower intake gaskets replaced last week by my cousin. Now when it warms up and you shut it off is squeals. Someone said it could be the gasket isn't seated right and it's sucking air from the crankcase. It squeals after the engine is shut off for a few seconds.
View 1 RepliesFord - Mustang :: 1971 - Cold Engine Start Fine But Will Not Start When Warmed Up / Sluggish Crank
A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
View 14 RepliesFord - Taurus :: Transmission Rebuilt / CEL On And Multiple Codes Came Up
I have a 2005 Ford Taurus. We had an $1800 rebuilt transmission put in 8 months ago and it's already giving us problems! The engine light has also been on. We took it to autozone and multiple codes came up. We've already put way too much money into this piece of shit and I don't want to get screwed by another mechanic! Where do we go from here? Is there anything we can fix ourselves? The codes are p0300, p0301, p0305, p0316....
View 11 RepliesMustang Talk :: 1998 Vehicle Will Not Start When Engine Is At Operating Temperature
Like the title says my 98 stang will not start when the engine is hot. It starts perfectly when the engine is cold. When the engine is at normal operating temp the starter cranks like normal but the engine will not catch. If i give it a little gas while cranking it the engine will start until i take my foot off the gas then it shuts down. after i leave the car for about and hour it will start. I have new plugs, wires, alternator, fuel filter, air filter and my last oil change was three weeks ago. the battery holds a good 12.6v, I had the timing fixed in june. I jumped the fuel pump relay and there is good pressure up to the fuel filter.
View 2 RepliesFord Excursion :: 2000 - After Trans Rebuilt Now Reverse Delayed?
I have a 2000 Ex limited 7.3 4x4 with 196k on it. I bought a new snow plow two years ago and the first season, my transmission went out during a plow job. It had about 175k on the truck and I bought it with 155k with no real knowledge of any work being done to the transmission. So, I had a local transmission shop rebuild the transmission. The owner has done plenty of transmissions for my family in the past with no issues. Once I got the truck back, the reverse was lagging. I didn't recall it being that way, so after month or so, I took it back in to him. It was about 7 seconds to shift to reverse.
He replaced a solenoid and valve I believe. That supposedly fixed the issue and got it down to about 3-4 seconds. I drove it for a month or so then took it back when I was plowing and the reverse went out. He dropped it and went through it. He said the check ball went through the backing plate. He repaired and now I am driving it, but still not happy with the reverse lag and it's out of his warranty period. It's irritating day to day, but when plowing snow, it'll drive you mad! I'm no transmission guy, and not sure why it's all of a sudden different than it was prior to rebuild.
Ford Transmission :: 1979 - Rebuilt C6 - Late Shift And Slipping
So against my better judgement I rebuilt my C6 myself. It's all back together and in my 79 F150 2wd 400cu. It seems to not want to shift into 2nd on it's own. I can manually shift it into all the gears but 2nd feels like it slips. So here is a list of parts with questions:
I used Mercon V instead of Type F. The transmission is a 1987 and the bottle says it covers vehicles requiring Dextron/Mercon.
I installed a FF servo lever with a P servo. My kit didn't come with a new spring. What effect would a worn spring have?
When adjusting the band, I set it to 120in/lbs and backed it off 1.5 turns. This seemed very loose to me. It leaves the set screw finger tight/loose, so I tried turning it in 1/2 turn but that made no difference and I won't drive it until I readjust it. Also it's a RedEagle wide band, but that shouldn't make a difference.
One place I think I could have a problem is with the modulator. I didn't have a scale to do the 12.5 lbs method, but I had a big syringe, vacuum guage, tubing and t fitting. I could hold the -15" of mercury but the rod didn't go in to the notch like it said it should. I was going to stick the old one in but it's bent and the rod is missing. Will a bad or misadjusted modulator cause the tranny to slip in 2nd? I don't think it's inbetween gears because it does accelerate in 2nd.
I used the BadShoeProductions video along with a Ford Shop manual to assist me.
Complete list of replaced items:
New Modulator
F servo lever with P piston
All Friction and steels
Pressure plates for additional friction plates per video.
All Seals and gaskets
New wide band
New pump
Hughes torque converter
TransGo shift kit
New Sun Shell (Took my end play from .070 to .012)
Everything was cleaned and tested ok per video.
Then only problem with the video is it doesn't tell you what to do when you have a problem, only shows you how to tear down and reassemble.
I used a torque wrench for everything, but if it turns out it's a valve body problem then I will go back through it but only using a nut driver.
The kick down rod is working properly.
My gear selector is set properly.