Ford - Hesitation - Explorer :: Chugging Sound And Surging When Hit About 40mph In 3rd Gear
Jan 29, 2011
My extremely used Explorer was driven off the lot, and ran like a champ for 3 months. One morning, I started it up, and noticed a chugging sound. While backing it out of the driveway, the truck felt like it was going to rattle apart. This was a sudden change. When I hit about 40mph, and I'm in 3rd gear, the truck hesitates and chugs along. If I stomp on the accelerator, the truck will kick into 2nd gear, and stops chuging for a second, then the gear changes back to 3rd and the hesitation starts again. If I disconnect the battery for a few minutes, then connect, I can drive normally for about 10 minutes, then back to the surging/hesitation. I've heard this might be a problem with the oxygen sensors or the mass air flow sensor.
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2003 Explorer XLT.. All dash lights off finally... had to tape the new ABS connector into the socket on the driver's side. It kept losing signal. Now I am noticing that it is shifting a little hard, definitely not smooth, between 2nd and 3rd. It is not a hard jerk... more like a hesitation. could this be a solenoid? Should I look and feel for additional symptoms? Would it be risky to change out the transmission fluid? or use a cleaning additive?
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I have a 92 accord lx that has been giving my endless hours of trouble. at 2 thousand rpm the engine chugs like its missing, but it only does this at exactly two thousand rpm. It also revs up when i put my foot on the clutch to shift. when it does this it stays at about three thousand rpm for several seconds before dropping rapidly back down to normal idle. I have just rebuilt the engine from the block up, changed the clutch, cleaned the E.G.R. port, put a new fast idle thermo valve on, new ignition system, new E.C.U., and much more.
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So lately I have been having issues with my 6.0 smoking, hesitating, and chugging. It seems worse when the vehicle has been idling for a minute or two (as in at a red light) and when I depress the accelerator it starts to move, but chugs and sputters, spurting light gray smoke, then the boost hits hard, the truck surges forward, leaving a massive cloud of smoke behind, then seems to run fine until I come to a stop again. I got the usual EGR codes, so I cleared the codes, pulled and cleaned the EGR valve of all built up soot and carbon, and reinstalled it. It seemed to run okay again right after doing that work on it, but then started acting up again this afternoon.
Shot the same codes for EGR (P0404, P1335). I cleared them again, and it continues to drive like crap. Other than EGR that I can look into? Or will I need to pull and clean the valve again tomorrow when the sun is up? At first I was thinking I might also be having fuel injector stiction issues, possibly turbo vane stiction issues, maybe FICM issues, but it's only feeding me codes for EGR.
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The problem starts after about 5-10 mins of start up and normal driving. First signs usually come leaving a stop light or stop sign. Hesitation, jerkiness, rough acceleration. It's usually slight, just enough to feel it. Soon it really shows up while keeping the truck at a steady speed, say 40 for example.
I finally heard what I would describe as a puffing air sound and figured vacuum leak.. finally! Nope.. it's coming from the rear underneath of the vehicle. I can't hear it in the engine, or the tail pipe.
2002 Ford Explorer xls 4.0 125k miles, I've replaced the air filter, egr valve, pcv valve, cleaned the maf and covered about every hose I can reach with carb cleaner checking for a vacuum leak. I've yet to try some of the other things due to hearing that puffing sound.
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One evening, I started my car but it shut off right after 2 3 seconds, then check engine light and battery light came ON.
Started again, it ran like normal with check engine light ON. After 2 3 miles, car started chugging & surging before the engine shut off completely. Started again, it ran just fine.
Next day, I took my car to the shop. They found out that P0351, 0352, 0353, 0355, 0356 codes. Then, they replaced 5 ignition coils for $600. But the problem was still there.
I took my car to the shop again, they replaced 2 variable timing valves. Cost $400. Unfortunately, it would not solve the problem. Third solution, they replaced my timing belt. Problem remained unsolved.
However, the check engine light turned itself off when my car ran fine. It turned back on again when my car started chugging & surging and stopped. It has been happening for 1 month. 2 3 times a day, especially in the early morning when the weather is cold and the evening.
At noon, my car just runs fine without any problems, even the check engine light turned itself OFF.
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I have a 2005 Ford Freestyle with 59,xxx miles. My wife and I drive it less than 7,000 miles p/year. About six months ago it began to surge (we had already taken it back to the dealer for some work on a recall related to surges while idling). However, the surge that now occurs is not related to the recall--it can happen anytime, even when on the highway while in cruise control at 70 mph. It makes the driveability of the car questionable. We have had it back to the Ford deal repeatedly, only to be told a number of high dollar things that seem to be based on guesses rather than actual data. No codes have come up with computer diagnostics.
We have also taken to independent mechanics, only to be told there is nothing wrong. Only once did a mechanic say that he 'felt' the surging when he test drove the vehicle. But even then, the shop said that they would have to do a tune-up (which raised a red flag with me because tune-ups no longer seem to be the proper term to be used with modern engine maintenance). I did a lot of research and as a result I asked a mechanic to test the fuel pump. The result is that the low pressure was 39.5 lbs, and, the high pressure was also 39.5 lbs.
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My truck - early 2000 CC short bed, 300K miles
Background on my problem: I had a short list of long overdue maintenance and updates to do that time and money kept me from tackling. Found a little of both so I replaced the water pump, HPOP lines, re O-ringed the HPOP/IPR, deleted the AIH, replaced all of the brake lines in the engine bay, put new fuel lines to the filter bowl. All of this took me about 2 weeks so the truck sat with the batteries out for that long.
After buttoning it all up, it fired right up, a little slower than normal but figured that was air in the fuel lines, HPOP, etc. The only issue I had was the battery light stayed on. Thinking I had an alternator issue, I checked it and it was getting about 14.25v so figured that was good. I used it regularly for about 3 weeks, the light stayed on, and noticed some surging during warm up and some low rpm hesitation.
Then it stop dead on me driving down the road. Turns out it was all my doing, I had torqued the bolts on the water pump pulley but didn't use Locktite. The bolts backed out, shredded the belt, and ended up yanking the CPS wire harness out of the sensor. So that made total sense.
Fast forward another week, got new wiring pigtail and CPS (never replaced it before now) from a couple of the good FTE vendors. I am not sure about the wiring on the pigtail, my truck has a green, blue and brown/gray wires, the wiring diagram I found online showed green, blue and gray. I wired it connecting the brown/gray where the gray line goes (center contact) and closed everything up.
Another thing to mention is that I have an Edge Juice with Attitude that has been on the truck since '06. I lost that connector in the process and they were absolutely no support in trying to get me running again. Wouldn't or couldn't tell me which wire they connect to so I used the green wire which is the CPS signal wire to the ECM. Once I am running again, going to get rid of the Edge.
So that is where I am now. No start, I've been reading some of the "what to do" posts, the most likely is that I don't see the tach bounce when trying to start. So I want to check the wiring to make sure I have good connections to the CPS.
So I don't have any diagnostic software to read codes, etc. I really need to fix this myself and only have one set of hands most of the time. Not really sure what the problem was before it stopped running and now I can't diagnose the surging and hesitating.
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1992 Ford Explorer XLT 4wd 4.0L (California vehicle) runs good for about 15 minutes, then suddenly starts 'chugging,' loses power, and check engine light comes on. After sitting overnight, it will again run good for about 15 minutes, then repeats the problem.
This problem began AFTER smog check test failed (it ran smoothly all the time before) and after, as was recommended to me, I replaced the 02 sensor. (Failure of smog check, it turns out, was more likely because, unknown, a 10" piece of exhaust pipe was missing, so Catalytic Converter was not connected to the tailpipe).
I had a mechanic scope the Explorer but he could not determine a specific failure from the codes, although he suggested possibly it's the missing 'Octane Adjust Shorting Bar,' or maybe the 'crank position sensor' is bad, but he could not give a diagnosis.
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I have this problem with my B5 and have no clue what it is. When I'm driving around wherever, the car starts to vibrate and shake when I go in third gear or anything above 40mph. I don't want to jump to thinking its my transmission. [URL] .....
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I have a 2000 Explorer with the 4.0 OHV. 104,000 miles. Has always ran great. The last few days it has had a sputtering almost knocking sound that gets worse when put into gear or the ac turned on. I changed the oil and checked all fluids. Looks good. Only thing I had done was fill it up this past monday after a storm. My mother in law told me afterwards that the particular station always has complaints after rain and has leaks in their tanks. I'm assuming I may have gotten water into the system. Would this cause these problems? And is it ok to drive it out or should it be flushed. I've added a can of Iso Heat and am now down to 1/4 tank. I had planned on getting a little lower on fuel and filling up with Premium. I've never had a problem like this before so not really sure the best way to track the problem or fix it. Or it may be something else all together.
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2 wks ago I was running down I95 at about 95-100 mph (basically floored) in a rush to get somewhere on time. Since then my truck has been running for crap. It threw the p0171 code when I checked it. When driving under normal conditions it pings a lot and my mpg is down about 3 mpg and has this hesitation when you get on it. Even when you accelerate at a normal rate it surges a little, it pings a lot and has a loss of power, about 30-40%. It feels really sluggish and doesnt want to pull and then you will feel it starting to pull a little harder then it starts to surge/hesitate a little again.
Truck has 147k on it. I was having a similar situation until I had the plugs replaced at 125k, so I figured the plugs shouldn't be the problem. So I replaced the fuel and air filters, cleaned the maf w/maf cleaner and Throttle body w/tb cleaner and replaced the pcv with a new one from ford. Still pings bad under load and still has the hesitation/surging and crappy fuel economy. Its running smoother but no fix yet. This is crazy trying to pinpoint this issue. The detonating isnt crappy gas because I used super and it still detonates quite a bit.
Its a 06' F250 5.4 3V XLT Lariat SC FX4....
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My 94 4Runner V6 has been acting up for over 4 months now. I've replaced the mass air flow sensor, the fuel pump, the fuel regulator, the O2 sensor, the spark plugs, spark plug wires, new distributor and rotor and last but not least the fuel line filter and dam it it's still screwed up. The spark plugs didn't show any signs of sooting or fouling in any way, I compared there color to Other used spark plugs and they looked good.
I've spent over $2000 on this 4Runner that had run perfect for almost 14 years and now I cannot even drive for 5 minutes without it bucking, hesitating, with No Power at all and eventually stalling. I also replaced the ECM or ECU with a good used one. I also cleaned the air intake and throttle body and cleaned and reattached the ground to the battery, the ECM, the coil which shows as being good, the ground to the engine from the firewall were also inspected and cleaned. I even bought a new gas cap for the gas tank and also had the fuel injectors cleaned at the dealer and "They Said The Engine Runs Perfect When It Is Hooked Up To The Fuel Injector Cleaner" but when it's hooked up to the fuel system again it acts up again.
One Thing About It IS When It's Acting Up If I Turn Off The Engine, While In Neutral And Restart It It Works Good For A Few Minutes Then Starts Acting Up Again. The engine is good, there are times it works Perfect for a few hours but Eventually it will act up.
Now that the summer is on us it's acting up even more because of using the air conditioning. It use to only act up when it would be warmed up or hot and only when there is a load on the engine, like driving around normally, but now it's even acting up when it's idling after just starting it.
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To make a long story long, my v6 developed a hesitation on startup after being driven and then sitting for a few hours. Sometimes so bad it almost dies - popping noise from under the bonnet and lurching would best describe the symptoms, the harder you press the accelerator the worse the symptoms. After about 5 to 10 seconds of driving goes away and never happens again until it sits of another few hours. Somewhat disconcerting when you decide to pull out in front of traffic....
Also recently started surging on freeway slightly and worse going up mountain passes at freeway speeds, may or may not be related. Does not have anything to do with brake predal being depressed, I can pressed the brake pedal and accelerator pedal at same time and car will rev and accelerate immediately upon brake predal release.
Talked to service advisor who told me that I needed to be sure and run premium in my vehicle which I always do. A couple days later with continued issues talked to my service advisor who then told me that the fuel in the NW had a problem and that I needed to run only mid grade and that would take care of the problem, which it did not. Talked to my service advisor again and he said that I needed to run only regular, that regular seemed to be taking care of the problem with the regional bad fuel all along he has been claiming that other manufactures are having the same problem Volvo, Saab, Ford on certain models.
I went along with one tank of regular did not make a difference on the hesitation, but made my vehicle more underpowered than normal. At this point I made a 2000 mile trip to CA and used CA fuel which is another completely different gas formulation than any other state in the west - 4 tank fulls of CA fuel made no difference same problem, both hesitation and surging. Took it back to dealer who then tried to tell me that it is a whole US problem with fuel....I wanted to call BS at that point, but agreed to let them keep it for a checkout, they kept if for 24 hours checking it out no codes, VW told them to run injector cleaner through it.
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Got a problem with my R. 134k miles. About 4 months ago I had similar problems and was told it was a bad MAF. Of course wasn't covered by my warranty, so I decided to just give it a good cleaning and car ran fine up till now. Just started doing the same thing today. Doesn't want to idle, taking off is really hesitant then it just goes. Trans seems like it is struggling to find the correct gear sometimes when coming to a stop or taking off, sometimes jerks hard, maybe throttle position sensor, or idle control? Once you are moving it drives fine, only very low speeds and idling are the problem. Trying to avoid going to the dealership. What this could be? MAF need cleaned again or just replaced?
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I have a 2000 Grand Prix GT with about 125,000 miles on it. Whenever I accelerate gently on the pedal the rpm will waver back and forth, especially between 2000 and 3000 rpm's. It seems to hesitate as the rpm goes down and then surges back and forth almost on one second intervals until I either let go of the pedal or punch it down to kick it into overdrive.
I have had a code in the past that the o2 sensor by the cat convertor was getting messed up readings, can't recall the specific number off hand though. Do you think that these problems could be caused by a bad catalytic convertor? I have smelled the classic rotten egg smell before from my car too, but it didn't seem to smell when I smelled the exhaust tonight. How would I test this myself easily?
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1990 Maxima. The car hesitates/surges occassionally after warm start, but only surges for about first 1/4 mile, then its OK. Sometimes it idles low, especially when I come to a stop and apply brakes hard. I believe the two issues are related. This has been getting progressively worse over past few years.
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My 2008 Honda Civic 1.8L LX surges forward when driving down circular parking garage ramp with foot on brake; otherwise, the only problem is occasional hesitation. What is the cause?
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Just went out this morning to start my 2011 F350 diesel and the starter is doing a "chugging" sound. Not spinning the starter at all. Just turned 60,000 miles last week and this is the very first issue that I have had with the truck.
I have put a trickle charger on the battery on the drivers side, and plan to leave it on for an hour or so.
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I was told by the dealer it would be over 150 to scan and do a fuel trim on my 02 Explorer, XLT, 4.0, Auto. I can't afford the scan or a garage. I paid 4200 for it and a short time later it starts surging at stop lights then it starts sputtering when idling and taking a while to start. Next it stops accelerating past 2.5k, then works well a bit then stops accelerating past 50 miles an hour. Then it works with an 02 disconnected then starts acting up again. It now either runs normal, wont accelorate past certain ranges, or starts then quits 3 seconds later, unless I unplug the MAF then it runs 15 seconds then stalls. Through all this symptoms come and go. Always banks 1 and 2 lean.
Symptoms
Knock
Rough Idle
Slow Starts
Hesitation
Lag
Stall
Replaced
02 Sensors
Fuel Filter
Injectors
Plugs
Plug Wires
Tested
Maf
TP
Temp Sensor
Cam Sensor
Crank Sensor
All EGR Components
Idle Valve
Coil Pack
For any air leaks.
Fuel pressure 37 or higher
Clean Fuel Pump Strainer
Flow tested pump
Checked air filter
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I recently notice the front right tire on my GS makes a bearing sound like at 40mph and increases at 55mph. Anything after 60mph is not too bad. I looked at the tire and notice the inner top of the tire is wavy. My brother says the strut is bad. I think not because, the car dose not bounce and strut is dry of fluids. The car has 38K miles on it, alignment was done by dealer at 35K ...
I did rotate the tires front to rear sound went away for a day and started back up again.so I know its not the bearing. Do I need better tires? another alignment? or strut?
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