I've had the fuel injectors cleaned and fuel filter changed.I notice it when im at a stop light, dont know if it does it in Park. Iv been told if it was the spark plugs or wires that the check engine light would turn on, and its not on. What should I check next????
View 7 RepliesI have a 2010 2-door accent, automatic. Today after driving about 45 minutes (engine warm), I stopped the car. When I tried to start again, it wouldn't turn over. Turned over on the third try; tachometer read at 0. Managed to drive home (35 miles), and the car did shift from gear to gear, but engine sounds tinny on idle. Turned off car at home and turned back on, still rough start and tinny idle but tachometer appears to be working again. No check engine light. At a loss; I've heard that there are a couple of crankshaft sensors that could do this, but I really don't know. Car is regularly serviced and has new belts (belts look fine), new strut plates, new tranny fluid, all about 6 weeks ago.
View 2 RepliesJust had a question about my 00 F250 7.3. I recently have noticed that my tachometer needle will not always move the way its supposed to. Sometimes it will sit at zero until I drive it for a min then all of a sudden pops up to where its supposed to be. I also noticed today that while i was driving it just dropped to zero for a second or two then back up to where it was supposed to be again.
When it does this there is no drivability issues with it or idle issues what so ever. Which is strange to me and I cannot seem to put my finger on what could be causing the issue. As I have searched online for a while to no avail as most of the other issues include drivability and idle issues. Also not that it matters but I have recently replace the cps sensor with a new one OEM of course but i don't think that has anything to do with this problem.
When I drive normally using the pedal, I can see slight movements of the tachometer as the torque converter locks and unlocks (this is normal when lifting off the gas and pushing it again). However, I notice when my cruise is set that my tach doesn't move at all, it doesn't matter if I'm going downhill, uphill, or whatever. It stays frozen wherever it's at when I hit the "set" button. Maybe the torque converter stays locked when the cruise is set? This isn't a problem, it just seems odd to me.
View 4 RepliesMy 2004 Camry will not start; I have never had any starting issues before and the car was running perfectly hours before the problem started.
The battery is fully charged
The fuel pump is operating
The ignition and fuel pump fuses and relays are good
When I attempt to start the car everything sounds normal, but engine never starts and the tachometer does not move.
Additionally a soft buzzing noise starts coming from somewhere near the air filter box. The sound can be stopped by removing the "EFI" fuse. Disconnecting the injectors does not stop the sound.
I have a 2005 v6 ford mustang with 134,300 miles on it. About three weeks ago the fuel gauge started to misread and now it doesn't move at all and it dose have gas. Two days ago the check light came on so I connected to to a code scanner and it gave me the code P0460. Under the code it gave a short discretion, (Fuel level sensor A circuit). What issue might be?
View 3 RepliesI have a 94 Cobra Mustang with a 5.0. For the past few months it has had an erratic Idle and stalls when trying to idle. I've had a number of suggestions on how to fix it and nothings seems to work. I checked for vacuum leaks, changed PCV, new plugs, new IAC valve, tested ICM and throttle TPS and even adjusted idle. Still no luck.
View 3 RepliesWhen my 1998 Mustang has been stopped and started numerous times in a short period--say, like when you're running errands--the idle will sometimes (not always!) get really low (below 1000 RPM), and will stall out no matter how much gas you give it. It will then refuse to start for about 30 minutes. Then it'll start back up and run fine for another week until the whole thing happens again. The car runs fine in all other respects, and again, it's seemingly random, and only after the engine has been stopped and started several times. It won't for example, stall out first thing in the morning.
View 2 RepliesOn my way home late at night, my tachometer started jumping a little, and the engine was rough. Then after another minute the lights dimmed and the engine died. It wouldn't start again. The next morning, it started right up, and it seemed fine. Drove it to the mechanic, he took it for a drive on the freeway, then after he got off the freeway it died again and had to be towed. The error code on the computer is P0326- Knock Sensor. I had the same sensor activated a couple of years ago, and my awesome mechanic (we have since moved far away, so I don't have access to the same guy) gave the engine a tune-up and replace the spark plugs and everything was fine (well, for two years). The car has been idling rough, and the intake manifold may be warped. Could the intake manifold cause this? Distributor?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford Musang 3.8L v6 when I start my car for the first time of the day or after several hours of sitting the car idles high between 1000-1300 RPMs for approximately 15-20 seconds after that it idles down to 600-800 rpms. I changed the spark plugs wires air filter not sure what else it could be no Check engine light.
View 1 RepliesI posted a few weeks ago about a problem I fixed with the MAF ( leak after the MAF ). 89 GT 111k miles, ( car restored to showroom condition ) Last week I pull to a stop light and idle is at 2000 RPM. Shut engine off and restarted and all was well, and idle back to about 800. I know something was wrong before hand as the car was pulling without my foot of the throttle. This happened again when I pulled into my driveway so let it run like this and when I pulled the plug on the IAC and idle dropped to about 600.
I took the IAC off the TB and cleaned it which did not look too bad. Installed IAC but left it disconnected and set up the idle on the TB according to the shop manual to 750 RPM. Shut engine off connected the IAC and followed the instructions in the manual to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, letting it idle for 2 minutes shut engine off then restart.
Well it was good for 2 days then started the same thing, 2000 rpm at idle..for the time being I have the IAC disconnected and set the idle up on the TB to about 850 RPM.
I have been driving the car like this for 4 days now and no running problems what so ever. Funny thing is no check engine light and no stored codes during this entire episode..Had my friend with an earlier OBD scan for codes and clean.
I hate shot gunning parts by replacing the IAC. Does it hurt running the car with the IAC disconnected or should I foot the bill and get a new one ? and hope that is the problem..or could something else be causing this ?
I checked for any vacuum leaks using my propane torch no change in idle. IAC problem on 89 Mustang GT 5.0 manual trans.?
I have a 2011 Elantra Limited with 63k miles on it. My car started with having troubles starting after filling up with gas, then it moved to about once every 25 times I started my car, the tachometer wouldn't turn on, and the car would have poor drivability shifting gears. Now it has progressed to stalling at stop lights. It has only done it when the car is warm and I'm stopped at longer lights. Will just die, but can be restarted after a couple tries. However on restart, the tachometer doesn't work and again with poor shifting. I typically have to turn off the road and stop my car and start it again and it's fine.
I just had a new battery as well as new spark plugs and spark plug wires replaced. Car dealership cannot recreate problem so they say there is nothing they can do.
I have a 1995 Mustang convertible 3.8. Shakes when its started at an idle and as u push the accelerator, the shaking gets worse, in park, neutral, drive, doesn't matter. I have replaced plugs, wires, coil, torque convertor. I took it to precision auto tune and they said everything checked out computer wise but there is deffinately something wrong. Car shakes so bad its insane.
View 2 RepliesI fear my truck may be stuttering on acceleration.
I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge tonight and the fuel PSI at idle and under acceleration... barely moved. Stayed between 60-62PSI.
I'm thinking this isn't normal... shouldn't the PSI be reduced especially when I accelerate hard ?
I'm thinking the "delivery" fuel line... perhaps there is a bottle neck somewhere which is causing constant PSI at the fuel housing ?
I got a 2005 f350 6.0 deleted and studded with air dog 2 4g pump, 125k miles. It started running rough then just died all within a few miles tuner showed code for injector 6 and ficm towed into ford dealer didnt have time to mess with it. They said ficm was bad had them replaced it then they said i need whole new fuel system lines,harness,pump,sending unit ,tank the whole 9 yrds. Which i thought was uncalled for so i called up airdog which system i had on there and they laughed and said ford garage is full of bs that they will upgrade my pump to the 4g and new harness.
So I took that stuff to garage had them swap it out and now they said come get the truck they wont work on it anymore that now it needs 3 injectors and they wont touch it with aftermarket fuel system on it. So I go to drive it home and it starts but runs rough and u can hold it to the floor and it wont budge bearly idles up and builds no boost my tuner is showing injector 2,3,4 now which wasn't a problem before i took it into the garage. So im not sure what happened to cause this all to happen but before i sink any more money into it is the 3 injectors enough cause to make it not build boost now .
Our 2001 mazda 626 has begun to run rough(shaking the car) when idling at a stop sign or stop light and once that begins when we push on the gas to move from 1st to second there is a huge jerk. If the air conditioning is on it is worse. It is an automatic.
View 3 Replies I drive (or more recently used to drive) a 2002 VW Jetta which has been having extreme difficulty running correctly during moist weather. Initially, upon start-up, I will note a severe problem.... it seems as if it's shaky, very shaky, and does not want to move. Upon trying to move it ignoring it's obvious signs, it does not want to take when I push in the gas....seeming to jerk or move incredibly slow. Usually feeling as if I can barely get it to move a 10 yards or so before being too nervous to push it any further. These issues seem to exist far far far more frequently in wet or moist weather (even a day or 2 after it has rained).
The car has always been well taken care of. What are the possible causes, then I might have some better luck requesting services upon calling mechanics around the area.... I am currently in college, away from home, and I absolutely cannot afford to get "nickle-and-dimed" by the dealership over every possible minor detail which could POSSIBLY need some tuning-up. It currently has just over 100,000 miles and has never had any major replacements.
I have a 99 Dodge Stratus 4 cyl 2.4L, automatic.
It has been idling rough for a few months now. It feels just like it is misfiring. Tach confirms quick dip in rpm then return to normal idle. It has never actually stalled, just a quick rpm dip and subsequent shuddering, then recovers for a few seconds.
Also runs very rough, at 47-48 mph under light "cruising" load. Sounds crazy, but it does (did, see below) not happen at 45 or 50, just in the 47-48 mph range. Again, it feels like bad misfiring, with the car losing a lot of power and shuddering until I accelerate/decelerate away from this speed range.
NOW, over the last few days, the rough riding has gotten a lot worse, and occurs at all speeds. It is worse under load (mild acceleration, hills). Still feels like misfiring. Loss of power makes it hard to maintain speed up hills, at any speed. Also, today for the first time in its life the car backfired while trying to accelerate up a hill from a stop, at a speed of about 15 mph.
When idling, I can occasionally smell gas.
So, the coils are 2 years old, spark plug wires are 2 years old, spark plugs are 2 weeks old and air filter is 4 days old. Check engine light is NOT on and there are no error codes as of yesterday. Fluids are all good, except I am about the kick the stupid thing until it bleeds. Parts store suggested Idle Air Control Valve, but I am dubious, as this now happens at all speed.
2000' GMC safari's electrical system. To begin, she has 95,000mi, an although that's about a year old, a duralast gold battery about the same age, and 13.8 volts at idle on the meter at the battery. The problem, over the past couple of weeks, I'll start it and drive off as normal, an the thing wants to stall for about two seconds. After that, no problem whatsoever. One time, it actually did stall on me, and everything went dead for a couple of minutes, no juice whatsoever; noticed that even the clock in the radio read 12:00. After a few minutes, I tried to turn the key again, and it started right up. This a.m., I went to start the van, and it initially would not turn over. The started motor turned but in a weak manor. At that point we went completely dead again, no electricity whatsoever.
The strangest thing is what happened next, I pulled the hood latch release as I was about to investigate and noticed the guages on the dash move when I did, power was back. The van then started but barely, and when it did it stumbled for a few seconds before driving off without so much as a hiccup the rest of the day. The only other possibly related symptom would be a slight rough idle combined with a just noticeable dimming of the dash lights in the dark at idle. Also, I should mention that I have checked the battery terminals and they are tight and clean, the van is in excellent shape mechanically, averaging 20mpg combined, smooth acceleration, no leaks, "using oil", white or black smoke, etc. Plugs, cap, rotor, and pcv are recent. Egr and maf are both clear.
I have a 2006 Ford 150 with about 120,000 miles on it... For almost 9 months now I've had a really rough idle and I can't seem to get it to smooth out. I've tried new plugs, tune up, new fuel filter, higher octane gas, fuel injector cleaner, octane booster, cleaned my mass air flow sensor and nothing works... I've checked the trucks ECM for any codes but it comes up clean every time...
View 6 RepliesWhen I start the truck it hard to start and the idle is rough but when it warms up it seems to get better but still miss fires now and then so i was thinking could it be a bad O2 there is now "CEL" because the battery was dead (installed a new one) and the truck has not been on the road yet (want to get everything fixed first) and update on the door alarm will be working on that tomorrow almost forgot 2002 explorer 4.0L "E" for the vin 4 wheel drive 124k on it.
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