Ford - Fusionhybrid :: 2012 - Groans When Stopping
Sep 27, 2012
I purchased a new 2012 Ford Fusion Hybrid. Within a day of driving the car home, it started making a loud groaning noise as the vehicle reached a near full stop. It repeatedly makes this noise when I come to a full stop. Ford service managers at two dealers verified that the noise is abnormal, but don't know how to remedy it. However, the dealer from which I purchase the car claims that the groan is a "nothing out of the ordinary." I've test driven five other 2012 Fusion Hybrids in the past three weeks in various weather conditions (hot/cooler, rainy, sunny, etc.), and none of those cars made groaning noises. And what should Ford be doing to make this awful noise go away? The service technicians speculated it is a problem with the brakes, suspension, or struts.
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My 2012 Hybrid engine will idle up after releasing the gas. The engine is sufficiently charged when this happens.
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I have a 2010 Fusion Hybrid. The rear brakes are shot after 70K, but the fronts have 80% left. Id there anything unique about this hybrid that would cause this, or should I look elsewhere for this unusual wear pattern.
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Have a ecoboost that moans and groans under light acceleration ? I asked the dealer about it and he said everything was fine. I guess its the turbo blow off valve. It run fine, just weird noises under the hood.
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So, got the 20 K miles service done last month on my 2012 Passat.
Recently I noticed that when I press the brake pedal to slow down, it seems to work fine. The brakes "catch" the rotors, there is a clear "grip" to the rotors and the car responds pretty fast to start slowing down. However, when I did a brake check to stop the car, I notice that when I press the brakes hard, they don't "grip" the rotors as hard as I would expect past that initial grip instance. Seems like their grip is not "catching" the rotors. As a comparison, my other car (6-cy, disc brakes front and rear) does maintain that grip. Am I missing something in this? Is the behaviour of the Passat's brakes expected?
How often does VW do break flushed based on their service schedule?
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I have a 2012 GLS automatic with 78,000 miles on it. Till now I never had any issues but recently I started having issues with starting the car. Its taking few tried to get it started. This happened 3 times and I got it checked at 2 places and they said everything (battery, starter, alternator) looks OK and they may not be able to find the issue until car breaks down as issue looks intermittent.
Later one time, I was driving on local road and car kept moving but I felt a small jerk like engine is stopping or gear shifting...and RPM fell to 0 but car kept moving. I stopped on the shoulder and turned off the ignition. After few trials, car started again and moved fine. This same issue happened today morning on the fwy when I am driving at 70 mph. It started after few trials.
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I've got a '12 GTI (bought 10/1/12) with just over 20k miles on it. Everything on the car is stock and original - pads, rotors, calipers - and the brake fluid hasn't been flushed yet. The last few months I've noticed an increasing sponginess to the brakes, the pedal taking longer to depress before I feel significant stopping.
Pads and rotors still look good. Fluid level's normal. At best it feels like maybe some air pockets might've worked into the fluid lines. At worst it feels like maybe a leaky master cylinder. I'm wondering if it's a common problem.
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My 2008 rear suspension creaks and squeaks and groans when I move my horse trailer. Truck has 32k miles, has done since purchase last year, squirted wd 40 and that works. At ford place now, they say it is because I added the ride rite air bags. Told them it made same sound before I installed. What to tell them (tech service bulletins ?) or give up and keep spraying and looking for dry joint?
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I have a '99 Passat 4 door sedan, 1.8t and have started to notice some serious groans and squeaks in the front end. I can get it to squeak in the garage just by pushing up and down on the front end, and by turning the wheel while stationary.
The car's 10 years old and I expect some back talk but, I'm wondering what I can lube on the front end. I took a look last weekend and the cv boots are fine, there's nothing leaking out of the car and no real ugly surprises under the hood.
My cursory peek inside the wheel wells didn't turn up any grease fittings, although I'm guessing there have to be a few. I can, almost fondly, remember all the zirc fittings on my '67 beetle and am wondering if there are any easy solutions to my squeaking/groaning problem.
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Battery is fine, turn the key and nothing (no clicks, groans, nada). At first it only did this when the engine was warm, wait 30 min and it would struggle as if the battery was weak but it would start. Had battery tested and it was fine. Now, it will also do this when the engine is cold. If I remove the connections to the starter and reconnect them, it starts right up and works normally hot or cold but at some point, same problem.
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Two fixes: When raising the roof, stop it halfway. It reveals a round rubber bump stop that sits against the rear parcel shelf. The bumpstop can be adjusted by rotating it. If you raise the bump stop, it sits harder against the parcel shelf and reduces movement, thereby reducing noises. Also, lubricate all roof and boot (trunk) rubbers with glycerine (glycerol).
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I had this problem before on my 2009 RX350 and took it to the dealer - they were stumped at first but eventually figured out it was the spare tire making noise every time I made a turn into a driveway or went over a little hill/bump.
They did something to adjust it or tighten it and the jack etc. and it went away. Now the sound is back, big time. How to adjust the spare to get rid of this. Also if there's a hack to pad or insulate the spare that would be great.
I also found another thread on a similar thing but it's talking about struts, shocks and trailing arms on 3rd generations. [URL] ....
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1999 Town&Country minivan with 165k
There is a creaking or groaning from the driver's side front when turning left at very low speed, like in a parking lot. When parked, turning the steering wheel in place intermittently causes the same thing but only when the wheel is turning to the left. No noise when coming back to center or going to the right.
Noise is definitely not a clunk or pop or squeal. No difference in handling at normal driving speeds.
Jacked up front driver's side tire and tried push/pull at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock positions. Nothing strange, even with enough force to be concerned with jack support only. Pulled the tire and checked out tie rod end and tie rod. Pushing and pulling saw no movement. Grabbed swaybar link and push/pull, all solid. No leaks or worn boots on any of them. Checked PS fluid--fine.
Should I suspect lower control arm ball joint? Is noise consistent? Maybe it needs grease? Unfortunately, car is far from home, so the biggest question is whether it is safe to drive hundreds of miles before sorting it out.
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My mom has a 97 Ford Thunderbird. About 1 month ago the air conditioner stopped working, it wouldn't blow out anything. Knowing that it could be a number of items and not sure of the cost, she decided not to have it fixed.Earlier this week it started working again on it's own. It worked for 1 day and then stopped again. What could've caused this? It seems to me that if it came back on that it may be a simple fix like a fuse.
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I have a starting issue with our older Explorer.
Vehicle: 1998 4.0 SOHC
Owned for 6+ years, no major issues to date.
225K miles, well maintained.
Problem: Vehicle will start fine on first start of day, or any other time after being parked for enough time to cool off like it is in the AM. Example, drove for about an hour and stopped for a hamburger. In restaurant for about 15-20 minutes go outside to vehicle, no start. let sit for about another 20 or so minutes and starts fine. Runs good, NO code given, ever. Has happened multiple times. Fuel is present in fuel rail as I poked Schrader valve in fuel rail and gas is present and with very good pressure. My guess seeing NO check engine light ever is something ECM or ignition coil related?
Haven't tried to troubleshoot yet. Any initial common problem concerning no start with warm engine?
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I recently replaced my alternator. I thought I was very careful not to make anything worse but now when I'm driving I have temperature issues. When stopping or slowing down my temp. gauge goes all the way to cold, then as I accelerate the temp gauge rises to the middle. It has not gone past the middle and has never done this before the repair. Also, the truck has never overheated or had any thermostat or cooling issues before.
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I have recently purchased a 1999 F150 with a v-6, standard transmission (5 speed). Previous owner said he had just replaced the clutch. Here is the problem, after the truck has been running a while and after stopping the truck will not shift into gear. It does not grind or make any noise, it just won't go into any gear. The only solution is to shut the engine off, place it in gear and restart the engine. During normal travel the transmission shifts up and down without any problems. The clutch does have a slave cylinder.
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A year ago, I was driving down the highway ,gas low,and it just died. Half hour later stasrts right up. No problem since then until 2 months ago. It's died 4 times in last 2 months regardless of how much gas in tank. Just stops out of blue when coming to stop signs. Half hour or so will start right back up with no problem.
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I've got a 99 Ford Escort Se 4 door sedan, Automatic trans with about 140k miles on it that randomly stalls when stopping at a red light. It is random and rare, but it does happen.
When it stalls, it sounds and feels like something is mechanically stopping the engine, like maybe it's not disconnecting from the automatic transmission. I can hear the engine working hard as the car slows down, it jumps around in the engine compartment a little bit, then dies as the car comes to a complete stop.
Then I start the car back up, everything is back to normal and I drive away with no further problems for the rest of the trip.
What can cause this? Does this car have a TCC clutch in the torque converter? Is it maybe randomly being falsely triggered to apply at low speed?
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I have a 2003 ford escape (V6 Limited/Automatic) that just hit the 145,000 mile mark. With routine maintenance and minor repairs, I am hoping to make the car last at least 200,000 miles. I currently have an annoying, intermittent problem that I have not been able to solve on my own. The car has no performance issues, but when the vehicle come to a stop while in drive (at a red light, etc) the car make a low humming noise that is coming from the front of the vehicle. The noise stops once I get the vehicle back in motion or when I throw the car into neutral. The humming also changes when I turn the steering wheel, but I think that might have to do with the load on the engine changing. The only thought I have is the torque converter, but I am not sure how I would test or rule that out.
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2010 F150 5.4, 6 speed... I am fast approaching the end for the factory 60,000 mile drive line warranty. I have had the slow speed 0-2 miles per hour shudder since 3,000 miles. The shudder downshifting from 2nd to 1st when stopping. As well as the highway shudder when gradually accelerating above 55 mph (empty and loaded)
The dealer that I purchased the truck from has driven with me several times and experienced the problems. They reflashed the computer at 5,000 miles. it made the shudder frequency double. i.e., twice as rapid. Reflashed again with no change.
I finally called Ford Motor Company, and they were surprised that I had not filed a complaint earlier. They followed up with the dealer.....who's service dept opted not to work on the vehicle again. I am now working with another dealer, and will be starting from scratch.
Long story short. I see that some have replaced torque converters, transmissions, clutch plates, valve bodies, and on and on....
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