Ford - Fusion :: Engine Will Idle High After Exiting Highway And Stopping At The Bottom Of Ramp
Feb 1, 2011
09 Ford Fusion, 5-sd manual, 37k. For the past week or so I've noticed after exiting the highway and stopping at the bottom of the ramp the engine will idle high. When I shift into neutral to wait at the light it idles at about 1,500 - 1,800 rpm. I will slowly drop to about 1,000 rpm and quickly drop from that to 750 rpm which is the normal idle. When getting off the ramp yesterday I put it in neutral while coasting and not touching the gas pedal, clutch or anything, the idle went from 1,500 to 2,000 rpm. Driving around town it seems normal, and the car drives normally with no issues on the highway up until I stop. What could be causing the weird idle issue?
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Yesterday my transmission slipped as I accelerated from a stop off the highway exit ramp. It grabbed almost immediately and no problems till I got to my destination about 2 miles down the road.......fluid was dripping from the underneath the engine......reddish/pink fluid. Engine was not over heated (according to the gauge). Pulled car off driveway and down the road a bit and transmission was really slipping when trying to accelerate quickly (no issue with slow acceleration). Checked transmission fluid and it was not covering the stick. I thought maybe I burst a transmission coolant line but upon inspection no fluid on that.
So I added 1 quart of transmission fluid this morning and started the car to hope to find the leak. No immediate leaking the transmission case, seals or lines. But I did notice that when I started the car the coolant reservoir was "bubbling". After about 5 minutes to allow the engine to warm and the coolant gauge to come to normal operating range I noticed coolant reservoir/overfill spewing out a pinkish foamy fluid and then checking the transmission fluid level it was drained again (no fluid on stick when running). One last fact....the fluid temp coming from the overflow was cold, so was the radiator fluid after I popped off the radiator cap.....but the dashboard temperature coolant gauge was at the mid point/normal operating temperature of the scale.
So my question is......where do I take the car to have it looked at......a transmission shop, or a typical full service mechanic? Is the transmission fluid co-mingling with the coolant fluid and if so how does that happen?
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Got my 2016! 324 miles ... and only 120 of those miles are mine, dammit. First brand new car. Lights came on as I was exiting the highway, dealer is right there. They gave me CC loaner, and said they wanted my car for the day.
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My daughter's 2010 v6 Fusion has stalled twice (without warning) in the last month at 65+ mph. The dealer reported that since no fault codes were set, there were no repairs they could make to correct this very dangerous situation from recurring. What repairs were made to correct the problem. The car has only 23k miles and has been well maintained at the dealer.
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I have a honda civic 2000 and recently I noticed that it overheat only after exiting a long drive on highway. The car does not overheat for my normal daily commutes (within the city).
I tried the following:
- Checked coolant on bot radiator and overflow tank.
- Changed the thermostat- No leak on the ground in the garage where I parked the car overnight
- No noise to lead to an eventual issue with water pump
- Radiator fan is kicking ok
- Had a mechanic do the chemical test for the head gasket: negatif
- Found that there is air in the cooling system:tried to burp the system 2 times but air is still in the coolant system. Not sure where its coming from !!?? Might be that this could be causing the overheating ?
- Found a crack on the manifold and changed the manifold then tried to get rid of the air (burping the system): no success. The air is still not removed completely.
- Changed the radiator cap.
What can I do next to diagnose the overheating condition that happens only after exiting long drive highway?
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2004 Grand Cherokee. I was pulling a heavy trailer 1000 miles, and while coming down a mountain pass 50 miles from the end of the trip the check engine light came on. All other gauges (oil pressure, temperature, etc.) had not changed while climbing or descending and I was in low gear while descending to save the brakes. I drove the rest of the way to the destination without incident. I tried turning the Jeep off and restarting it several times to see if the check engine light would turn off and it stayed on. The next morning the light was off when I restarted it and has not come on again since. I hooked it up to a scan tool and received 2 codes: P0152 and P0132. 2 days later I noticed that it was revving high while idling and in Park. It would rev between 1500 and 2200 RPM while in Park, and at 900 RPM while in Drive. Also, while travelling at freeway speeds it seems like it's trying to downshift for no apparent reason. I hold the throttle still and have even tried cruise control and it intermittently increases engine speed, without changing ground speed. I assumed that I got the transmission too hot while climbing/descending and that the error codes listed above (related to O2 sensors) were associated with that, but now I'm wondering if something more has happened.
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i recently changed my engine oil and filter from carquest brand to quaker state and about 500 miles later, i started having some issues like, rough idle and loud ticking and bottom engine noise. is that just a coincidence or any problems with this oil? 1.6L D.O.H.C.
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I drive a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport w/ 4.7L V8 engine. I have been dealing with an overheating problem for about 6 months now and have nearly exhausted all hope of correcting the issue. It has been in the shop on 4 separate occasions and seen 2 different mechanics. The radiator has been replaced, the thermostat and thermostat housing have been replaced, the radiator fan works properly, hoses have been replaced and no subsequent leak has been found by either mechanic, they haven't mentioned the possibility of a blown Head Gasket (nor has the typical "milky residue," shown up in my oil cap). Each time I got it back from the shop the problem was fixed for about two weeks, then returned and slowly got worse.
It overheats in idle (with the fan running), on the highway at high speeds, and while driving slow. Sometimes it only gets about 3/4th to the red (usually when its cool at night) and sometimes it will hover just below the red; while I'm doing everything I can to keep it from hitting red (defrost on, revving engine). Some days it takes a little while to get hot and some days it happens very quickly. I'm tired of sinking money into the vehicle but as a recent grad I don't have the money for a new truck at this point. Suggestions included heater core clogged, water pump gone bad, fan clutch.
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I have a 2006 Ford Fusion with a 2.3 L engine and 110k miles that needs a new engine according to the dealer. The car was well taken care of with regular oil changes etc. My local mechanic says the supply of used engines for the Fusion is limited because of their extremely high failure rate. He is a one man shop that has done 6 Fusion replacement overs the past 2 weeks alone yet when I called Ford they claim there has not been unusual numbers of engine failures reported. In spite of this, the Ford dealer mechanic refers to it as a throw away engine.
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A few weeks ago my 2008 Ford Fusion engine/transmission warning lights came on. I took my car to a local Ford dealer and they told me that my Bosch battery (made by Excide) leaked acid all over some electronic components. The leak came from the negative post terminal. There is spacing where the post goes into the battery. They first thought they could do the repairs under warranty, but since the battery caused the problem they could not get it approved. I now have Excide involved. I took pictures of the battery and engine compartment to show them the damage.
I put in a claim and now they are telling me that they want the battery shipped to them so that they can do some testing on it -- which could take 3 weeks. I'm not sure if I should allow them to have the battery. Once it out of my possession, I have nothing to challenge them on. However, I do understand why they want to look at it. I might not have a choice. Any thoughts? I'd prefer they send one of their reps to the dealer to look at the battery and the damage it caused. The rep can then report his findings back to the corporate office. I just can't believe the damage the acid caused. I never saw it coming. There were no signs. The car was sitting for 2 weeks in my garage while I was on vacation.
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I recently switched from stock rotors to a pair of SP slotted rotors. The pads are stock. I thoroughly followed the bedding process and had no problems until now. For the past 2 weeks I noticed brake shudder when stopping from highway speeds. My first reaction was that it was a warped rotor. Since it was a fairly new pair.
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I just recently purchased an 05 Touareg V6 and I am a little concerned regarding the acceleration I am getting like after stopping at a light or trying to get on the highway. It seems that it takes this vehicle about 5-10 seconds to realize that it needs to get moving. However, after it does realize what it needs to do, the acceleration is fine. I was told different things such as it could be the turbo system and one thing I find very hard to believe that this is a characteristic of all VW's. I like my VW and don't want to get rid of it but would prefer better acceleration
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1996 Ranger 2.3 140 CID XLT 126,000 Miles. When coming to a stoplight or stopping the engine idle is low and causing engine to almost die. Engine has been stuck at high idle a couple of times. It started with the engine idle slowly coming down and now it its too low. I suspect the Idle air control valve.
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Long story short, at 77,100 miles, my engine failed yesterday. I bought the car new about 18 months ago, and have used it for work ever since.
After exiting the interstate yesterday, the car started knocking lightly. By the time I got home (about 3-4 miles), it was barely running, and knocking REALLY bad. No check engine lights or anything, and everything was working perfectly until then. I was sent a tow truck under warranty, and it's at the dealer now until Monday when they diagnosis it. This seems ridiculous for a new Hyundai
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I have a 2012 Ford Fusion SEL. In late December, the check engine light came on (steady, not flashing). I took it to a local mechanic, as the nearest Ford dealership is a 45-minute drive away. He said an evap code came up indicating that there was a problem with the vent valve solenoid, not the capless fuel filler. However, he did not have the diagnostics to research it further.
As there have been problems with the vent valve solenoid, including a recall (for which we do not qualify), my husband bought and installed the part on Jan. 7. We both drove it several times since then, and the check engine light stayed off. But when I drove it today (Jan. 11), the light was back on.
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Our 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid has been great and trouble free. Recently, however, we've noticed a strong smell,like fiberglass, come from the A/C when starting from a cold engine.
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I have a 2001 chevy metro 4 cyl. with 13 inch wheels and automatic transmission. The engine rpm's are running high at highway speeds. Would a larger diameter wheel support this situation?
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I have a 1999 Venture Van. The engine has a low idle and stalls when stopped/parked after driving on the highway for 10 minutes or longer. Whenever I drive it to the train station in the morning to go to work, it dies as soon as I park it. It will start up again fine right away tho. I drive 10 minutes on the highway.
The engine light is on, but goes off sometimes for months before coming on again. I've brought it to at least 3 mechanics and they can't get the light to stay permanently off, and say to just drive as-is. But that still leaves me with the low idling problem. It doesn't always stall, but the potential is always there, as you can hear the low rpms threatening, and dread stopping at a light.
I had the engine light interpreted as P0122 TP SENSOR CIRCUIT LOW. The mechanic replaced the Throttle Positioning Sensor. Engine light came on again 2010. Mechanic did a Computer system check/smoke test. Diagnosed a Leak in evap system so they installed a new gas cap and vent valve. 2 months later, engine light went on again.
New plugs, spark wires, fuel filter, fuel treatment, fuel line, gas cap, vent valve.
1 month later light is on again, and low idling persists. I put alot of $ into the problem with no solution. Some mechanics say the engine light has no relation to the low idling.
Wife wants me to get rid of it, but the Van is in great condition except the low idling/stalling problem. I don't care if the light stays on, as long as the low idling/stalling stops. Can't I just ask a mechanic to increase the idling rpm?
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A buddy of mine has a late 2000 passat 2.8. He recently developed a bad knocking at higher RPM's. I took a look at it and it is coming from the bottom end of the motor (rod bearing, crank bearing?) He has no loss of power and the knock is not there at idle.
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While exiting the interstate just now my 2011 f250 just went in to limp mode going up the ramp and cut off. I am sitting at the top of a very busy exit truck won't restart .
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Jeep jk with hemi 7.2l manual ... Symptoms of high rpm when stopping before complete stop. And high room when shifting from one gear to another (usually bit drops between shifts). Recently I noticed that this happens only when shifting above 2500 rpm. So if the shifting happens before the rpm reaching 2500 it will be smooth and normal.
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