My cars thermostat runs normal all the time unless I go up hill. I drive into the mountains to work every day. It runs about 80% hot until I crest the mountain and then immediately cools back down to normal. Since its winter no air conditioning running but heat is on at times. Only 37000 miles on car. Automatic transmission.
View 7 Replies2013 Ford Fusion ... My cars thermostat runs normal all the time unless I go up hill. I drive into the mountains to work every day. It runs about 80% hot until I crest the mountain and then immediately cools back down to normal. Since its winter no air conditioning running but heat is on at times. Only 37000 miles on car. Automatic transmission.....
View 8 RepliesI have yet another issue with my lovable Aerostar. This one I just noticed today. The heat doesnt work! Not that its very needed here in Florida, but its still an issue. I tried the heat function out multiple times today and even after driving for a good 20 minutes hot air does NOT come out! Only cool air comes out the vents. Well actually, for a few seconds when I turned the heat on it sort of felt "slightly warmish" but a few seconds later it was cool again. I don't know if this could be related but the temperature gauge is stuck at C (Cold) as its been since I purchased the van about a week ago.
I brought the van to my friend who's a mechanic and he looked under the hood and claims there is no thermostat, the previous owner must have removed it. I found this odd since the vehicle has yet to overheat and I know overheating is sure to happen when the thermostat is missing. Need to confirm if these signs are indeed because of either a broken or missing thermostat? If it is, I have yet another problem. I began looking on eBay for a new thermostat and there's all different kinds! Some say "190 degree" some say "180 degree" and some say other things. Here's a link to a "190 degree":
MOTORCRAFT RT-1152 Thermostat
If I do need a new thermostat, what kind do I need? Here's the exact van I have: 1989 Ford Aerostar XLT V6 with 4 speed auto transmission. Oh and just in case this has anything to do with it, the van has A/C but it's not currently working.
My 5.8L XL Windsor van is overheating when idling or in traffic but cooling just fine when moving on highways.
The 5 blade-fan comes on as soon as I turn the engine on and the radiator appears to be working just fine, cooling fluid moving and no leaks.
I am a landscaper in NYC and often haul heavy loads through slow moving traffic in the city and would love to drive relaxed and not with my eyes fixed on the temperature gauge awaiting impending disaster.
What is the best course of action?
a) change the clutch and see how it goes...
b) change the clutch, the fan and the water pump
c) install an electric fan
d) drive the van into the east river
Another issue, which has me and my friends puzzled, is that I changed the termostat a while back in an attempt to locate the problem; I replaced the old 195 degrees with a 180. Since the change 8 times out of 10 when I start the van as it is warming up I have to rave the engine for the termostat to open otherwise it does not and I end up with overheating bang. Once it is open no problem beside the overheating while idling.
And one final issue after driving for a while the motor surges when idling at a stop light or in heavy traffic. I have been thinking a bad air sensor but my mechanic or I have not been able to fix this issue for years.
I bought the car maybe months ago and the gas gauge nor the thermostat worked. The fan kicks on just fine never seems like it's over heating and it doesn't lose water or anything like that. For some reason it's a pain in the booty hole to put in gas it stops every 45 cents. When I first got the car the dash lights didn't want to work but kicked in and now they work fine also the AC button doesn't light up or turn on and the dome light also doesn't work.
View 1 Replies2006 Camry. Last winter, I ran into a pile of snow and got stuck. I accidentally switched gears from R and D without going to neutral and this is when the issue started. When I switch to Park, it won't hold anymore, it rolls (when uphill); I have to use the handbrake all the time. By the way, I have no issue starting the car, when it is in Park position.
View 10 RepliesOccasionally my 2013 tdi has weird transmission issues. Usually it is from a start from a stop sign, typically when I am driving uphill. What happens is I step on the gas and it takes maybe 3-5 full seconds to respond and actually start moving. It is a total loss of power. What could be happening? I took it to the dealer and they said they "tuned the transmission" or something that I don't really buy because I still have the issue occasionally. I had this issue from day one and now have about 25k miles on the car.
View 6 RepliesI own a 2013 C-Max hybrid and I notice that during long drives if i engage the cruise control, I don't get as many EV miles as I do when I have my foot on the gas pedal and take it off when i have reached my desired speed. Does EV mode not work in cruise control? My feet start to ache a bit with constantly having to press and release the gas pedal just so that I can generate some EV miles.
View 3 Replies2013 f150 stx with 14,xxx miles. Yesterday all 4 fan speeds worked. Today fan speeds 1-3 do not work, fan speed 4 works fine. This would be the blower motor resistor correct?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2012 Ford Fusion with a V6 and record my mileage & fuel info every time I fill up. For the first 45,000 miles I was getting 26mpg consistently every time I filled up, around 45,00 miles it started hopping around. Some fills I get as low as 20mpg others I get up to 33mpg. Over several fill-ups it is averaging close to 27mpg for the past year, but the volatility concerns me. I haven't seen something like this on past vehicles and not sure what it could be.
View 19 Repliesi just purchased a 2013 f150 limited truck and my husband was cleaning the battery cables and now the retractable running boards won't work. is there something we have to program now and if so how do i do it?
View 8 RepliesI have a real puzzler on my hands. I have a 2006 Ford Fusion with a manual transmission. Its only got around 70K miles on it, since i was not driving it much for the first couple of years after purchase. Around the fall of last year, i was noticing that the car would make a creaking noise, and with time i was noticing it more. The "creaking" only is heard when the car comes to a stop and takes off (like in bumper to bumper traffic). So when the car is normal speed, i dont hear any noise regardless of putting on the brakes.
I have also noticed that the noise would only come during the afternoons (after my car had been sitting in a hot parking lot). In the morning, the car sounds normal and has no "funny" sounds, due the fact that I park my car in a cool garage overnight. The car drives normal no matter the heat conditions, but the noise can be very annoying. I have also recently noticed that you can sometimes hear this noise when people get in their seats of the car.
I have tried to take my car to a mechanic, but they can not find what is wrong. (Unfortunately, I have only been available to take the car in the mornings, so they of course can not hear a problem). The bearings all check out fine, and doesnt appear to be the shocks. My father also knows alot about cars, and this is really stumping him. The only that he noticed is that the engine mount was cracked, so we got that replaced. We were hoping that this would solve the problem, as he guessed that the "creak" was of the engine shifting. This did not solve the problem, but I am glad that we got it taken care of. As far as I can tell, the sound seems to be coming from the front center of the car, and not from a particular wheel.
During the winter here in Houston, I have not heard the noise, but now that its heating up; the "creak" has reared its ugly head again. What can i do?
I have a 2006 Ford Fusion with a 2.3 L engine and 110k miles that needs a new engine according to the dealer. The car was well taken care of with regular oil changes etc. My local mechanic says the supply of used engines for the Fusion is limited because of their extremely high failure rate. He is a one man shop that has done 6 Fusion replacement overs the past 2 weeks alone yet when I called Ford they claim there has not been unusual numbers of engine failures reported. In spite of this, the Ford dealer mechanic refers to it as a throw away engine.
View 19 RepliesThe blower and A/C on my 2006 Ford Fusion keeps turning on and off. The system has manual knobs and is not computerized. It turns on just for a few seconds and then turns off. The knob that controls the turning on and off of the system is in the off position when this happens. What could be causing this?
View 1 RepliesMy daughter's 2010 v6 Fusion has stalled twice (without warning) in the last month at 65+ mph. The dealer reported that since no fault codes were set, there were no repairs they could make to correct this very dangerous situation from recurring. What repairs were made to correct the problem. The car has only 23k miles and has been well maintained at the dealer.
View 3 RepliesI have an '07 Ford Fusion with 94,000 miles. The check engine light came on a couple of days ago, so I took it to a shop to have them pull the codes on it. The code that came up said the coolant was not reaching the proper temperature, and the mechanic told me the thermostat should probably be replaced.Two questions:
1. Should I go ahead and get it done, or wait and see if the check engine light comes back on? I usually only drive the vehicle about 10 miles a day, and it's all city driving.
2. What kind of cost should I be looking at? He said it would be a system flush, replacing the coolant and thermostat (which they would get from a dealer).
My daughter has a 2007 Ford Fusion with brake issues. Brakes are squishy after the car is "jarred" (i.e. hits a bump or pothole). The brakes go almost all the way to the floor and return to normal after a driving for a while. All the work described below has been performed by Ford dealers (at great expense): Master Cylinder replaced, all brake pads replaced. Brakes have been bled numerous times. When we bring it in they bleed it and say it's fine, next "bump" and the problem comes back. We're really at our wits end, the car is, at many times, scary to drive.
View 12 RepliesThe power steering fails. Turning the engine off and restarting reactivates the power steering.....
View 1 RepliesA few weeks ago my 2008 Ford Fusion engine/transmission warning lights came on. I took my car to a local Ford dealer and they told me that my Bosch battery (made by Excide) leaked acid all over some electronic components. The leak came from the negative post terminal. There is spacing where the post goes into the battery. They first thought they could do the repairs under warranty, but since the battery caused the problem they could not get it approved. I now have Excide involved. I took pictures of the battery and engine compartment to show them the damage.
I put in a claim and now they are telling me that they want the battery shipped to them so that they can do some testing on it -- which could take 3 weeks. I'm not sure if I should allow them to have the battery. Once it out of my possession, I have nothing to challenge them on. However, I do understand why they want to look at it. I might not have a choice. Any thoughts? I'd prefer they send one of their reps to the dealer to look at the battery and the damage it caused. The rep can then report his findings back to the corporate office. I just can't believe the damage the acid caused. I never saw it coming. There were no signs. The car was sitting for 2 weeks in my garage while I was on vacation.
The check fuel inlet light went on. Should we be concerned? What does this mean?
View 9 RepliesI've noticed in the past couple of days that when my Fusion is fully warmed up and stopped at a traffic light I'll feel a short rocking forward-backward. Almost like a bunch of guys are pushing on the car from behind. Sometimes, if it is really bad, I'll even seen the RPMs dip a little bit.
I was thinking that it might be motor mounts causing the sensation. But what would be making the engine dip idle RPM?
Additional info: 138k miles on it and transmission fluid was last changed at about 80k. Plugs changed at 100k. New air filter installed a couple weeks ago.