Ford - Fusion :: 2007 - Low Coolant Temperature OBD Code
Mar 23, 2013
I have an '07 Ford Fusion with 94,000 miles. The check engine light came on a couple of days ago, so I took it to a shop to have them pull the codes on it. The code that came up said the coolant was not reaching the proper temperature, and the mechanic told me the thermostat should probably be replaced.Two questions:
1. Should I go ahead and get it done, or wait and see if the check engine light comes back on? I usually only drive the vehicle about 10 miles a day, and it's all city driving.
2. What kind of cost should I be looking at? He said it would be a system flush, replacing the coolant and thermostat (which they would get from a dealer).
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
2009 Ford Explorer, 6 cyl, 4.0L, 74K. Read code w/scanner - "P0128 - Coolant Temp below thermostat regulating temperature". Assuming this is pretty straight forward but was wondering what the most likely culprit is (?thermostat?). Ironically, this code popped about a week ago, I cleared it and actually got my inspection sticker earlier today and then later in the day, the CEL came on again and once again, the P0128 code. The coolant level is perfect so I know there aren't any leaks.
View 5 Replies
I've had a issue since I've owned my 2015 purchased new that I didn't get a chance to take in again until recently. I have a little fluid that leaks out of the Hybrid coolant reservoir. This is not the one attached to the radiator for the ICE, I have an issue with the hybrid component one. When I first received my car the fluid was above the full level. After a few times wiping it up I stopped by and had the dealer remove the excess fluid from the reservoir until it was at the MAX line. After a little while I noticed some fluid continued to seep/leak out and I'm at the low line now. I recently took my car in again to take care of a few things before the bumper to bumper expires. When I received the car back I didn't fully review my paperwork until I got home. I saw the comment that "Normal characteristics of the Hybrid cooling system" ...
A second issue I have is I get a squeak sometimes when I start driving the car. Sounds like it's coming from the front wheel, it's not a constant squeak, but one that happens with each rotation of the wheel. They were unable to recreate the issue as it's random. Brakes were checked and no issue found. I'll have to see if I can get it to show the issue for the service rep.
View 2 Replies
The needle has always stuck dead on 190f when it gets up to temp. About a week ago I took the center grill of to paint, I put it back on and the check engine light came on ... code p2433 secondary air pump problem. I figured I had just disturbed something etc. Now the coolant gauge is going up to around 240f during normal driving, the fan stays on for about a minute when I turn off the ignition.
View 16 Replies
I went to my local Autozone today to have a code read and get the freeze frame data. I got a code P0118, Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input. I called the dealer but they are out of stock on the sensor. Would it be a problem to use an after market sensor? I'm just concerned about the quality and accuracy of the sensor.
View 5 Replies
Engine light is one for about a month and finally got an ODB II.
Today it reads the error code [b]P0118 which is [b]Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
The coolant sensor reads 45 C when the key is on "on" position at about 2:30 pm this afternoon and I start the engine about 2 mins the temp jumps to 68 C, are these some logical number?
Does it mean the bad temperature sensor and I need to replace it?
View 5 Replies
My daughter has a 2007 Ford Fusion with brake issues. Brakes are squishy after the car is "jarred" (i.e. hits a bump or pothole). The brakes go almost all the way to the floor and return to normal after a driving for a while. All the work described below has been performed by Ford dealers (at great expense): Master Cylinder replaced, all brake pads replaced. Brakes have been bled numerous times. When we bring it in they bleed it and say it's fine, next "bump" and the problem comes back. We're really at our wits end, the car is, at many times, scary to drive.
View 12 Replies
I took my 2011 Santa Fe, 3.5 liter, in for the tail light water thing, and a cracked fitting down near the thermostat (all warranty). I bought a rad flush while they were in there.
I picked up the car, drove for 1/2 hour and got a CEL. Plugged in my code reader and got three PO198's, oil temperature sensor. The dealer was closed by then, so I left it in their lot and will call them tomorrow. Their repair performance to date has been poor, and that's being polite. How a rad flush could cause a PO198? Could they have forgot to plug the sensor in? Is it located anywhere near the thermostat housing? Did they not get the air out of the rad, and maybe the engine did get hot?
View 2 Replies
I have a 2007 Ford Fusion AWD and noticed a humming noise as I was driving last night. It started when I got near 50mph and seemed to stop or get so quiet as to be not noticeable when I got to 40 or put the breaks on. What this might be?
View 2 Replies
I have a 2007 Ford Fusion (I4). Recently the brake pedal goes extremely soft after the anti-lock brake system engages. It can still brake, but I have to press the pedal almost to touching the floor. It will stay soft a while (at least 20 min, probably longer), but I found that if I pump them hard a few times (like while at a red light) it then returns to normal.
My mechanic can't figure out why it doesn't immediately return to normal after the ABS engages, and he's not sure what to replace to fix it. I don't have the cash right now to just go replacing lots of stuff, hoping it might work.
(He even mentioned the possibility of removing the ABS fuse to prevent the ABS from kicking in and triggering the problem. Though wouldn't that be a step backward, safety-wise? I always heard that ABS is much more effective than pumping brakes manually...)
What's causing this and how to fix it?
View 15 Replies
I have a 2007 Ford Fusion SE 2.3L 4 cylinder. It has approximately 94,000 miles on it. I purchased new Sumitomo tires with a 100,000 mile warranty in February of this year. They were balanced and aligned at the time of install. So far they have been very smooth and quiet with great grip. About 2 months ago I started hearing a noise that sounds like uneven tire wear, a sort of rhythmic rubbing or wobble sound that increases in frequency as the speed increases. It is most noticeable at speeds between 30 and 50mph. I rotate the tires every other other change (at least twice a year) and had the alignment done again in late October. I am hoping that there is nothing wrong with my virtually brand new tires. Is there anything else it could likely be?
View 2 Replies
My ammeter & coolant temperature gauges have quit responding. Any "easy" ways to check these circuits before I disassemble the dash? And, if the gauges DO turn out to be bad, where can I get replacements?
View 4 Replies
Temperature gauge quit working after changing the thermostat and coolant.
With the engine off, I disconnected the single wire from the temperature sending unit and switched on the ignition without starting engine. The gauge pointer stayed in at the Cold mark. Using a Jumper wire, I grounded the sending unit wire and the needle on the gauge went to the Hot mark.
I quickly turned off the ignition, and replaced the sending unit with a SW-2328 (F1SZ-10884-A) Temp Sender. Warmed up the engine, but still no reading on the dash gauge.
View 8 Replies
Basically my coolant temperature gauge either reads as the hottest it can be, or the coldest. It doesn't jump around a whole bunch, but it's always all the way to one end or the other. From what I've read there seems to be a lot of different temperature sensors, so I get a little confused with all of the abbreviations, but I'm fairly certain I checked the correct one, next to the thermostat housing.
Using a multimeter I checked the resistance of the sensor, and it was around 600 ohms about 30 minutes after it had been driven. I'm not sure if this is where it should be or not, but it was rising as the truck cooled off.
Anyway, I'm not sure if I just tested the sensor incorrectly or if there could be another issue. A friend of mine suggested that the thermostat may have gotten stuck or something, but it doesn't seem like the gauge would switch at all if that were the case. What I should check to try and fix this.
View 7 Replies
2002 ford sport trac.I have been having an ongoing issue that started with the engine cranking but would not turn over until an hour passed. After replacing multiple parts (cam shaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, ignition pack) I am now down to poor fuel economy as the last of the issues (roughly 12 in the city and 15 highway). I was told the issue may be the engine coolant temperature sensor going bad so I decided to replace it. I found this was very difficult due to it being a plug and locking pin design and in a very tight spot in the engine.
I tried to purchase a replacement and the parts store kept trying to insist on selling me a part with threading. I finally found someone that figured out the issue and found the part for the 2001 sport trac had the same plug style with clip that did fit but was shaped a little different on the sensor end which I assume was due to being aftermarket. I noticed that there were two plugs side by side and the one easiest to access was on the left and I was told the one on the right was the sensor that gave the temperature reading to the gauge.
After installing the engine coolant temperature sensor I found the temperature gauge on the dash now will not respond and is sitting below the cold end of the gauge completely off. Is it possible this is because the part was for a 2001? Is the sensor on the left (passenger side) the engine coolant sensor?I would hate to put the old sensor back in just to test if that's the issue due how difficult it was to put that locking pin back on. What to check that could resolve the gauge issue before pulling this sensor back out?
View 3 Replies
Since 2-3 weeks ago indicators show about 105 C degree of oil temp and the same 105 C grade on colant temperature gauge. Isn't it too high? I do not remember values indicated month ago but I suppose were lower (about 90 C Degrees). When I stop on light it comes down to about 100 and little below, but running on 140km/h on motorway - 105 C. On uphill I observed even 115 C degree on oil and coolant. It is too high in my opinion. Could it be cause by sharp winter (-20 to -10 C degree) in Europe? I'm not sure indications will go to normal (~90 C) on spring and summer! My engine is V8...
View 7 Replies
I have recently noticed that my coolant temperature indication became sluggish. Needle does not make it to "normal" temperature indication and if I turn the heater on it will drop somewhere in between "cold" and "normal" temperatures. Does it affect fuel consumption and so on? I guess maybe coolant temperature sensor is about to die.
View 4 Replies
Where the Coolant Temperature Sensor is located in the R32? Need to replace it. I searched but luck so far.
View 23 Replies
What is the location of the Coolant Temperature Sensor? I search but I couldn't find a picture or diagram for our car.
View 2 Replies
My 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe V6 is giving out a P0118 code, and the "freeze-frame" data reports a -40F for the coolant temperature. That doesn't make sense so perhaps the sensor is faulty or perhaps the sensor connector is loose?
I'd like to take a look at the coolant temperature sensor but I cannot find it. I have scoured hmaservice, hyunda-forums but all the various pics are still not clear enough for me to actually find the sensor. I have seen all the online pics from Hyundai but I can't get my head around exactly where the sensor is - the pics are either too zoomed in or so many things have been disconnected for the purposes of taking the picture I can't get my bearings.
View 9 Replies
I seem to recall my 4.2l oil and coolant temperature staying at a consistent 200 degrees, but now my oil temp seems to hover at or slightly above 180 while coolant remains at 200.
A 5 mile high speed uphill run brought the oil temp to about 190 degrees, but it soon settled to 180 once I slowed to 80mph.
So ambient temp is about 15 degrees Fahrenheit; however, that really shouldn't make a difference with a water cooled/thermostat engine, correct?
My main concern is that lower oil operating temperatures wont allow condensation to boil off.
View 7 Replies
