Ford - Freestar :: 2005 - Engine Repeatedly Surges / Stalls When Put Into Forward Gear
May 25, 2013
So this doesn't begin until I put it into a forward gear, but after about 30 sec of smooth running, I will get a sudden momentary loss of power, then a surge, which repeats and intensifies as the van lurches forward until the engine finally stalls. Throwing it into N in the middle doesn't work. Babying the gas had no effect. It happened both at higher(2.5-3K) revs and at lower (.8-1.5k).
After killing the battery starting and restarting it just to keep it moving, I had it jumped, at which point I sat with it in P for 20 min to charge the battery and in all that time, it ran fine. I'd love to hear some possible diagnoses. Don't know if I should have it towed from where it's sitting, or try to drive it to the shop, or if it's something I can repair myself (think 1-star difficulty).
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While I am driving every once in a while my car will vibrate while I have my foot on the gas pedal. I cam confused as to what this could be. We replaced the torque converter last year could it be this? Or could it be something simple like a coil or mount?
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My surging/running down issue has returned on my '86 2.3l Ranger. I thought it was electrical, when things improved with the new ignition switch, but lately it's hard to get out of 2nd gear before the engine surges then starts to lose power. a poke of the gas pedal starts the who cycle over again. I pulled codes but it's hard to tell what the reader is saying either 33 and 34 or 334. The good thing is all the codes point to the EGR system. Looking for a diagnosis tree to determine if the valve is bad or the sensor is shot? They are both not cheap so I don't want to just throw parts at the problem.
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2010 F150 for the past 15,000 miles I have been experiencing a nasty repetitive surge when moving slowly forward with the brakes on, as you would do going through a drive through. The truck shakes when this happens and is very noticeable. Ford reprogrammed the transmission module, and now the surge happens twice as fast. What was the remedy? This is my first Ford after only GM products for the past 30 years.......and I hope they can find a resolution soon.
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I have 05 ford freestar 3.9.... The air works perfect until you put on max, then just slows down and sort of drops in temp, on a hot day feels almost humid. What is going on here... One guy said change cabin air filter i did and no change.
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My 2005 Ford Freestar with 164k miles experiences a high pitched whistling noise coming from the front end after a few minutes of highway speed driving. It sounds like a tea kettle whistle. It starts out as a quick pulsed whistle then moves to a solid whistling noise. I've heard it driving straight and turning. The sound pulsates if I turn the steering wheel slightly to the left or right but seems to occur more when I turn right. The sound does not occur if van is not in motion and will stop just before car comes to rest at a stop. Three repair shops have looked at this and none of them can replicate the sound while van is on a lift but one shop did hear it during a test drive. All three shops have been unable to locate / diagnose this whistling noise. They all state brakes are in very good shape.
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We have controlled beeping sound coming from behind the dash board that last about 2 seconds does it 5 times and then is silent for about 20 minutes and the starts again.
The only warning light on is the low tire pressure light but the tire pressures are all ok. How to fix the beeping sound and the tire pressure light.
Ford Freestar 2005 4.2l....
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I owned a 09 Prius for 8 weeks, and after a total loss accident, we replaced it with a 08 Touring model. I have never experienced anything like this with the 09, but have multiple times on the 08 (though no real rhyme or reason as to when/why)
The originally happened the night we picked up the 08. I stopped at target to pick up some milk while the wife sat in the car. the car was left in ready mode. when the ICE engaged the car "surged" forward and was enough to startle my wife (who was the usual driver of the 08) enough for her to think the car was not in park (which it was)
We tried to recreate it after i was finished at the store, and while the car did rock forward, it was not as pronounced as the first time (though much more then We feel the car should move upon the ICE starting.)
Took the car back to toyota, and they preformed a full inspection and stated that everything was within toyota's spec, and to keep an eye on it if it were to happen again.
Well it has done this about 5 times in the last few days. The Dealer is looking in to it.
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My 2002 Buick Lesabre has about 160,000 miles on it I keep up with maintenance regular oil changes and what not. Today when I am driving to work and right as I get on the freeway my car starts lurching forward and slowing down repeatedly so I pull over turn the car off look under the hood everything looks normal to me. I wait a bit start the car up and the lights on my panel go from the dimmest they can be to blinding bright and I could not adjust the brightness at all. Any way the car drove fine the rest of the way but the lights were bright as can be the whole way there. What could be causing this? Bad battery?
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I've been having an issue with my Elantra GT where the car appears to be shifting poorly. The issue is very intermittent and usually only occurs just after starting to drive for about 4 to 5 minutes. But it never occurs consistently during every time I start driving the car. It is an Auto transmission but it feels as if a poor downshift is being back (car hesitates, then surges forward). From my research the transmission in the GT appears to be fairly reliable.
Background
2013 Elantra GT
KMs: 98500 km (high mileage commuter to work and back)
Note: Installed K&N Typhoon around 95,000 km, issue persisted before and after.
Initially started to feel the issue around 80,000 km. At this point I took it to the dealer and had the transmission flushed. The issue went away until about the 87,000 to 90,000 km mark and then started to return. Went back to the dealer and they said they performed an updated and couldn't replicate the issue during test drives. Currently my car is at 98,500 and this morning when driving to work the issue was particularly severe and the check engine light came on.
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I am having issues with my 2002 chevy cavalier.
The car occasionally surges forward while idle and revs up to 1500 rpm approximately occasionally when the air conditioner is on... if the brake is not applied I move forward.. the lurches are continuous every 3 seconds or so.
I am getting a code for an evap leak.. I have replaced the purge solenoid valve, gas cap, and checked all connections with no luck... slightly decreased gas mileage has occurred.
A little bit of a slick substance has been leaking from the car.. it has the consistency of water, but leaves a slight brown tinge on concrete.
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I have a 1999 toyota tacoma 70,000/mi. While idling, at random intervals, truck surges forward. Have to stay on the brake. Cannot drive in winter. Took to Toyota dealer and other mechanics... described problem and that A/C seems to be on all the time. No one has been able to fix. My brother disconnected the A/C and surging has stopped, but I need a better fix that will allow my using AC.
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My car stalls repeatedly while I am driving. I quickly put it in neutral and start it again. This can happen 4 or five times on a 30 minute trip, or sometimes, not at all. Someone said it could be the Mass Air Flow Sensor or Meter. Tried a new one and the car is still stalling.
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2006 Ford Freestar. While we were on the road the electrical system failed but the engine kept running. No radio, no lights, no a/c, no ABS, no nothing – but were able to keep on driving. When I tried to turn on the fan or the a/c, the car hesitated as though the power was being interrupted. After 10-15 minutes of driving, everything seemed to return to normal. It starts and seems to run normally now, but we are hesitant to take it out on the road. What might be going on?
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2006 Chevy Express 3500 ... Vehicle surges, hesitates, stalls, backfires, and is hard to start after stalling.No codes are thrown, and have had the fuel system checked out without results. 159.000 miles. last mechanic said it was not a spark plug issue. Been an ongoing problem for several months and getting worse all the time.
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Reverse works great....engine revs and barely pulls in drive. Not sure yet if it actually changes gears. I am planning on replacing tranny. I have a few questions :
1: Could it be something more simple like a selonoid or ???
2: What all trannys will fit? this is the 2wd 5.4 liter xlt ...
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I have a 2003 Jeep Wrangler (4 cylinder) that seems to be having a fuel problem.... about a month ago, it started lurching, having a hard time starting, it would lose power on drives and once or twice it has stalled on me while I'm driving on the freeway. I've had to restart my car going 60 mph... if I feel it lurching or surging, I have been able to keep the car going by shifting into a lower gear or taking my foot off the gas.
I just took it into the dealership and spent 1300 to get it diagnosed and fixed. I got a new timing belt, and a whole bunch of other stuff and on the way out, it stalled at the first stop light. Although it seems to be running better, it obviously didn't fix the issue. I took it right back and now they are going to have me bring it back on Monday to 'try to figure it out’. Where should I tell them to look?
Oh, and - I had to get a short fixed from the ignition key (I was able to pull the key out while the car was running) and they fixed it. But now, I can't get any reception on my radio...
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I have a 2005 Ford F150. The engine sometimes quits when I slow down to stop for a stop sign or slow down to make a turn. I shift into neutral and it starts up and I am on my way again. This is an intermittent problem. Of course, it has never done this for a mechanic. It will happen 6 or 7 times in one day, and then won't fail for 2 or 3 days. The Ford dealership has replaced the air flow sensor. Did not work. They now think it is the throttle body that should be replaced. I am reluctant to replace this as they are not getting any codes from the computer telling them it is failing. They are not getting any codes related to this issue at all.
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I have 2005 Ford 6.0 turbo diesel. I replaced high pressure oil pump because it would die once it warmed up. Also replaced high pressure fuel rails and icp solenoid. Engine still dies when ect reaches 204 and eot reaches 235. Why it still dies?
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I've got a 2011 tiguan SEL 4motion and occasionally it feels like after starting the car and putting it in D (typically only when it's moved right into D) it seems to feel like the transmissions is repeatedly trying to get into gear. It doesn't seem to effect being able to drive off just seemed odd and kind of annoying. Or like the torque converter was locking and unlocking repeatedly.
I've also felt the same occasional jolt while sitting at a stop. I'll be bringing the car in for a 40k soon and will be having them check it out, but thought I'd see if this was a typical thing.
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I have a problem I have been struggling with for the last year.... Here are the main symptoms:
- Engine stutters and sometime stalls ONLY in 3rd and 4th gear
- 1st and 2nd gear has NEVER given us a problem
- The outside temperature has to be above 75 degrees. The truck ran great all winter, but last week with the first warm day, acted up again
- There has to be a sizable load (6 adults, full tank of gas)
- gets much worse going up hills (again load)
Not sure if it is related but one time in the winter, the truck stopped blowing heat. If I turned off the fan, the system would "build up" heat but then as soon as I turned it back on, the heat would stay for maybe 30 seconds and then fizzle out back to cold air. This happened only on the coldest day of the year. The heat has been decent the rest of the time.
Last year they replaced the crankshaft position sensor like 4 times, then claimed it was the ECM, replaced that and it still acted up. Then they finally said it was some corrosion in the wiring harness. However by the time they got through with it, it got cold enough outside where it didn't act up any more.
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