I have 05 ford freestar 3.9.... The air works perfect until you put on max, then just slows down and sort of drops in temp, on a hot day feels almost humid. What is going on here... One guy said change cabin air filter i did and no change.
View 6 RepliesWhile I am driving every once in a while my car will vibrate while I have my foot on the gas pedal. I cam confused as to what this could be. We replaced the torque converter last year could it be this? Or could it be something simple like a coil or mount?
View 1 RepliesWas driving on the highway and all of a sudden my mph gauge just drops and my car slows down. This is the first time it happened and it didn't do it again after I got off the highway. Other things it has been doing: eating gas, shifting hard, and doesn't want to get up to speed. Not sure if they are related to this new problem or not.
View 2 RepliesMy 2005 Ford Freestar with 164k miles experiences a high pitched whistling noise coming from the front end after a few minutes of highway speed driving. It sounds like a tea kettle whistle. It starts out as a quick pulsed whistle then moves to a solid whistling noise. I've heard it driving straight and turning. The sound pulsates if I turn the steering wheel slightly to the left or right but seems to occur more when I turn right. The sound does not occur if van is not in motion and will stop just before car comes to rest at a stop. Three repair shops have looked at this and none of them can replicate the sound while van is on a lift but one shop did hear it during a test drive. All three shops have been unable to locate / diagnose this whistling noise. They all state brakes are in very good shape.
View 3 RepliesSo this doesn't begin until I put it into a forward gear, but after about 30 sec of smooth running, I will get a sudden momentary loss of power, then a surge, which repeats and intensifies as the van lurches forward until the engine finally stalls. Throwing it into N in the middle doesn't work. Babying the gas had no effect. It happened both at higher(2.5-3K) revs and at lower (.8-1.5k).
After killing the battery starting and restarting it just to keep it moving, I had it jumped, at which point I sat with it in P for 20 min to charge the battery and in all that time, it ran fine. I'd love to hear some possible diagnoses. Don't know if I should have it towed from where it's sitting, or try to drive it to the shop, or if it's something I can repair myself (think 1-star difficulty).
We have controlled beeping sound coming from behind the dash board that last about 2 seconds does it 5 times and then is silent for about 20 minutes and the starts again.
The only warning light on is the low tire pressure light but the tire pressures are all ok. How to fix the beeping sound and the tire pressure light.
Ford Freestar 2005 4.2l....
Ok, so I'm getting the typical P2181 Cooling system performance. So i replaced my t-stat and ect sensor but no change. When i'm looking at my mvb's in 01 and 17 they're reading the same. I check my hose temp and both upper and lower are similar in heat. I can watch the temp rise in the mvb's till the fans kick on and the temp will drop.
Now, at start up it'll literally take about 9-12 min to warm up in this 20 degree weather. I was driving home tonight and got off I-5 and at the light with the heat on I watched the temp gauge drop from operating temp to almost the notch above cold, and I could feel the heat cool down coming out of the vents.
My 2001 Ranger V6 with 160.000 miles runs like a Swiss watch. After warming up slightly it idles at the typical 750 RPM. I can pull out of the garage, park in the yard, shift from D or R into P and the idle holds at 750 RPM until I turn the engine off.
But, If I've driven to warm the engine to normal run temp and go through the same D or R and into P, the RPM drops to nearly Zero and sometimes the engine stops.
This has happened in the past so I take out the MAF, squirt it good with MAF cleaner, put it back in and everything is hunky-doory. But not this time. What am I missing??
1998 f150 4.6 4x4 auto 180k .... Runs 100% other than a strange and inconsistent overheating issue.
On cold startup truck will warm up. Then the temp gauge drops to practically 0. After 15-20 seconds gauge shoots up to max and then falls back to normal after 15-20 seconds. Then it'll go back to driving normally. At some point it pukes.
For reasons I can't figure, the Temp gauge on the wife's Explorer is shooting from normal to high in just seconds. Then, it drops back to normal. When I looked at it this afternoon, I noted 2 things.
1) There was no sign of a coolant leak or overheating.
2) There wasn't ANY coolant in the tank!!!!!!!
The truck has evidently been running fine while this is going on.
Well I just completed a complete refresh of the fuel system. New injectors, IDM , UVC and UVCH, and glow plugs. (All Ford Parts)
I had my AE software running on the last drive and noticed the oil temp is quite erratic. The odd thing was, when I left off the pedal, it would drop 100 degrees. Once I got back into the fuel, the temp came right back up where I thought it should be (140-160) puling a 7000# Enclosed 8.5wide car trailer, in 30 degree weather.
The truck ran OK but seemed down slightly on power. I know the oil temp affects SOI timing, but what degree and how often does it sample, to make timing changes? I found a new one at an Oreillys and put it in, but no change. Wires do not seem to change OHM reading when wiggling them.
I will post pics from recording as soon as my kid brings my laptop back.
2004, 3 door Accent, 150K miles. This has been going on for many summers now (had an idea when driving from work). Well when I got home from work, gauge still read E, turned the car off, then back to ACC, still read E.
Opened the fuel cap, didn't hear any hissing noise or any indication that there was alot of pressure build up, put cap back on, turned to ACC, and gauge read normal.
So after a long story my question is this, is there a pressure regulator that when it over pressures, lets it vent, and what is it called and where is it located? I am thinking that regulator might be stuck closed.
Every now and then when I slow down the temp gauge drops about 1 notch below its normal 200 reading. It's nerver done this before. Car runs great and heat is strong. Is this a sign of a failing thermostat? If so, where is the thermostat located, is it hard to replace, and should I get OEM or is OTC ok? Car has 89K on it.
View 11 RepliesWhen the temp drops below 40 degrees I get growling/vibration. When I took it to the dealer the service supervisor test drove it. He then checked with one of the mechanics who said they all sound like that. I called Nissan. They told me I had to resolve the issue with the dealer (who is now out of business).
View 5 RepliesMy '01 Grand Cherokee Limited is overheating. I have changed the thermostat and ran a leak test. I am not having a leak. The temp drops when I turn on the A/C or heater. I went back to the shop that changed the thermostat and leak test. They said it was the fan control and I have to go to the dealer to reflash the program for the fan control. I made the mistake of asking the dealer to reflash, instead of having them check on the overheating problem. I'm planning on going back to the dealer to have them diagnose the issue.
View 16 Repliesi have a 01 b5 GLX 2.8L with the automatic climate control, well on occasion my temp will be reading fine than all the sudden drop to -36 degrees in 4 degree increments. when this happens my ac thinks its cold outside so it stops blowing cold air and blows hot air. i have to let the car sit with the ignition off for 15 min before it will reset. Is it my temp sensor that's bad and if so where is it located at?
View 10 RepliesI inherited a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee from my late father and it seems like whenever the temperature overnight drops below a certain level, in the morning the low tire pressure light pops on. I never encountered this problem with any other car I owned, is this something inherent to SUV's with all wheel drive?
View 7 RepliesMy 2005 Hyundai Elantra GLS has had 0 problems. It has about 132K on it, but it's still awesome.
I was stuck in some nasty traffic the other day in 95 degree NC weather, and was idling for about 15 minutes with the AC on. Out of nowhere, it felt like my AC got warm and I saw my coolant temp gauge spike from just under midway to 3/4 of the way. Unsettling.
As soon as I got on the gas and drove for about 5-10 seconds, it dropped precipitously back to normal. I was able to recreate this behavior once I got home. Normal driving results in normal temperature. Both fans appear to running.
My wife has a 2004 Freestar and a few weeks ago it all of a sudden went to red on the temp gauge and there was some steam. So I checked the reservoir and it was too low on coolant. I added the coolant but it still had a tendency to run towards red but turning on the heater full blast made it go down drastically (below 50%). ALso, the heater was blowing cold air. So I changed the thermostat and watched it. It continued to inch up to 70%-80% and then finally drop back down to 40%.
I also had to start adding coolant every other day. I took it in and had a flush done. It eventually blew the reservoir cap off and all the coolant out while my wife was on the highway. I had it towed to a shop and the mechanic said he couldn't find anything wrong with it except the cap. He did a pressure check with the old cap and it wouldn't hold. He replaced the cap and it held pressure. He assumed that was the problem. That was a week ago.
Today it ran up to 80%-90% and then all of a sudden it dropped down to 40%. When we got home I let it cool for 4 hours and then checked the level. It was at the bottom of the reservoir roughly 3-4 inches below the fill line. We don't see any signs of leaking on our driveway. What could the problem be? I checked the oil to see if it may have coolant in it but didn't see any sign.
I have an 05 F250 Super Duty 6.0 V8 Turbo Diesel. This is my first diesel so don't know my way around it too much yet. I just don't know what could cause this problem. It sounds like a faulty sensor to me. But no engine light has come on. My oil pressure drops down to in the red zone when I brake while driving, then once I return to driving again it returns to the normal pressure. It's almost as if it has something to do with the tilt of the vehicle.
View 8 RepliesMy 2004 Ford Freestar SEL (the 4.2L version, 123,000 miles) is missing. The computer code is P0302 which, from what I can find, indicates a misfire in cylinder 2. I had this same code at 99,000 miles and ended up having the spark plugs and wires replaced around 100K miles. It was all running fine until about a month ago and started misfiring again, badly. I thought it was related to the rain but it is doing it all the time now. At times it gets so bad, I have no power and the computer disengages my A/C (bad at this time of the year). I tried a running a fuel system cleaner that specifically mentioned cleaning the injectors, hoping the problem was simply a clogged injector, to no avail (I know I probably wasted my $10 here). I have a couple of questions:
1. Am I doing damage to the engine or transmission by continuing to drive it? I really don't have a choice but need to know how urgent it is.
2. Does this thing have a traditional distributor cap & rotor or is there an electronic ignition module the plug wires connect to?
3. Where would I find the illusive distributor or ignition module, in theory?
4. Any other theories as to the cause of the misfire (cheapest first)?