Ford - Focus :: Transmission Jerking Only At High RPMs After Long Distances
Mar 20, 2012
I have a 2002 Ford Focus ZX5 with about 108,000 miles on it. It's driven far distances, about 700 miles round trip, a couple times a month. About about three times since last summer, approximately halfway through one leg (at around 200 miles in), the engine starts jerking when accelerating. It doesn't happen on every trip, and seems to only happen on hotter days.
(Driving around town short distances, even at high RPMs doesn't present a problem at all, it's specifically after a couple hundred miles.) The engine light has flashed, but not every time the jerking occurs and hasn't stayed on, and the code that was pulled doesn't seem to be telling either the mechanics or Ford know what the deal is. I'm looking at having the whole transmission swapped for well over a grand, but with the disclaimer that it's not a guaranteed fix.
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I have a 2005 Mitsubishi Endevour XLS w/23000 miles, when the car has been driven for long distances or especially after sitting in a hot parking lot all day, I cannot remove the ignition key. The car has been serviced by the Mitsubishi dealer three times for this, including the Endevour recall for this problem.
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Recently I was driving on the highway, about 70 miles into my trip, when all of a sudden my cruise control kicked out and the rpms went high and then I lost acceleration. I pulled over to the berm and tried to take off. Problem is I could not get the car past 30mph because the accelerator pedal could. not be pushed down more than an inch or two no matter how hard I pushed. What could be wrong???
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I have a 2009 ford focus The rpms are hight and the transmission is not shifting .
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2011 Focus 2.0L L4 engine, manual transmission, 70K miles - when up-shifting gears, the throttle remains high, dropping v-e-r-y slowly instead of dropping rapidly when the throttle is released. It is the same when not moving, when the throttle is run up to steady RPM's, then the pedal is released, the RPM's drop slowly. This has started recently, at first I thought it was just 'operator error', and that our shifting skills were deteriorating with age (ours, not the car), but testing has proven the fault lies with the vehicle. I researched sticking throttle issues, and thought I had located the problem as a bad throttle body assembly. Changed it out with a new one, went thru the computer reset procedure,and the problem still exists. No error codes are showing, but the little yellow wrench light is lit on the dash (resets each startup. Vehicle drives fine otherwise, no loss of power, etc.
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My parents are having trouble with there 2008 Santa fe 3.3 L. The transmission won't shift and the rpm's climb really high. Does that mean the transmission is going or is it something else.
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I woke up and drove to a stop sign. When I tried to pull away the transmission raced like crazy, HIGH RPMS! But was barely moving. After about 8-15 mph it would finally catch 2nd gear. I check fluids frequently, and topped it off a few weeks ago, and when I finally got where I was able to stop, I looked and there was no fluid registering. So I put 2 quarts in to fill.... Then started the car and it would not go into any gear completely. I'd just feel a small thump, when I shifted. It will actually drop into gear after a while going straight, but it's stil revving HIGH and it won't completely go into reverse. Weirdest thing, the "Anti-Lock" light came on while all this was happening...
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I have a 2001 chevy metro 4 cyl. with 13 inch wheels and automatic transmission. The engine rpm's are running high at highway speeds. Would a larger diameter wheel support this situation?
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Me and the wife just now noticed this issue after about a week of owning this 6.0 f350 auto 4x4. Leaf spring front and rear. Long bed. Listing all this stuff because not sure if it matters.
Around 50mph if we drive normally about 1500rpm the truck seems to jerk a little as we climb in speed. If we get the truck into the 2000rpm range it goes away.
Not sure if it's suspension, transmission or engine. Any clue what it could be. ???
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I have a 2008 Ford Focus - 4 Door Sedan SE 60300 miles.
I've gone to 3 mechanics now and no one can seem to figure out whats wrong with my car. Here's whats happening:
About 1 1/2 years ago I took my car to get an oil change at Jiffy Lube (Yeah never again). When I left, my car was idling funny... Silly me didn't take it right back and have them tell me what was wrong.. so I let it go, well about a month later it started idling even weirder. Basically it feels like my car is shaking when it gets under 1000 RPM and I notice my RPM dial start falling and bouncing back, acting like its going to stall, but never does. I notice a loss of power when this is happening (on speed up and just accelerating in general). All of this is random, I can't seem to put a pattern to it as to when it happens. One day I'll start it up and everything is perfect... Then I'll shut it off and restart it later, and it starts vibrating and puttering again... No signals as to if its hot/cold or wet/dry, no environmental variables seem to cause it to happen anymore than others. And there is no check engine light on, everything "looks" normal.
What I've had done to it so far is:
Air filter changed / reseated
3 oil changes (keep getting told it will work)
Throttle cleaned
Computer reset for idle sensor data rebuilding
Now I'm told that I need new engine mounts, and that could be the reason for the vibration. I'm thinking that the vibration caused the mounts to wear out, more so than the mounts being the cause. Mainly because I don't see how bad mounts could cause loss in power/bad idling.
What could be wrong?!? Really bugging me and don't want to keep throwing money at it for phantom solutions. Seems like mechanics I go to can't figure it out unless there is a check engine light on with some diagnosis code to tell them exactly whats wrong.
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I was on the highway a couple days ago and i was in sit and go traffic. When i would accelerate everything was fine but when i would come down to a stop or slowing down at about 1500 rpm i felt the car shake or jerk back and forth. It was too a point where I was scared and about to pullover the highway. Car has 1k miles and its a DSG.
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I have a 2000 F150 5.4L with 157k miles on it. I think it has the 4r70w trans. The transmission has started holding 2nd gear too long before shifting into third. Throttle position doesn't matter, it does it even under light throttle. I do not have a check engine light. I have owned the truck since new and the trans fluid has been changed 3 or 4 times. The fluid looks pretty good now, not burnt or anything. The truck has been sitting in the garage a lot over the past 2 years, I drive it at least once a month and have put maybe 2000 miles on it this year. It shifts fine through the other gears, just 2-3 has an issue. Truck has the towing package.
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I've got a misfire problem with my Focus. It started about a month ago and did not trip a code until last week. It stumbles on acceleration between 2,000 and 4,000 rpms. It is only a slight stumble and although noticeable, it does not impede driveability much. Last week I was able to get it to finally trip an OBD code. P302 - Cylinder 2 misfire. I changed the plugs and wires with no effect. I thought I had it narrowed down to the coil or injector until my wife noticed a new wrinkle.
Under normal driving conditions the misfire is annoying, but my wife found that if she turns on the A/C, it is undriveable and will not accelerate past 30 mph without some patience and a neck brace for the bucking. My first thought was the A/C compressor was freezing up. I turned off the A/C and left the blower on and it would not stop missing. I turn off the blower and it smooths right out to the annoyance I described first.
Right now I drive the car without A/C and blower whenever I accelerate. If I'm going a steady speed, all is well and I can run the blower and A/C.
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My 2005 2.7L 6 cylinder Sebring with 100800 miles that was running fine just started jerking on me last week. It runs fine untill I get it up to 2750RPMs. Its like its getting gas, then not getting gas and jerks forward all in less than a second and then again, and again and again, until I drop the RPMs back down. Any clue on what I should be looking for?
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About a year and a half ago I moved from Chicago (500 feet above sea level) to Morelia, Mexico (6,200 feet above sea level). My gas mileage on my 2000 Ford Focus has plummeted, I used to get anywhere from 22 to 26 miles to the gallon around town in Chicago but I am lucky to get 14 or 15 here. Is it simply a function of altitude? I have a good mechanic, keep everything tuned up and in good shape.
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I have a 2005 Santa Fe that for the last week or so has been slipping/jerking at about 2500rpms (2nd and 3rd gear). This only happens after the car has been warmed up and running for 20 minutes or so. I have put it into manual and it does not do this, only when in auto.
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I've switched the fuel pump on this car more than once and made sure the fuel line isn't crimped yet it still hesitates. Also, the temp. shoots up when idling and appears to need either a fan or temp. switch?
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I have a 2000 ranger 4.0l 4x4 automatic transmission 5r55e. When I put it in drive I don't have any problems except in do it starts jerking when I give gas. When I put it in reverse I can move but as soon as I give gas it stalls the engine tranny was sitting in another truck swapped it with mine I changed the filter and 5 1/2 quart of oil.
I when to a transmission shop plugged it inn no codes and he said he would changes all solenoid and valve body gasket but he's not sure what is the problem. So I started to take out valve body and notice the oil is darkish red and was wondering if it was normal or not and if I'm taking that valve body out for nothing or should still go ahead ...
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03 focus SE Wagon, Automatic Tran, has a bit of a problem. Whenever it gets driven through a puddle (big, small, paddling pool, etc.) it will make this high pitch squealing noise, and then when it gets shut off after driving through said puddle, will have trouble starting. (It will turn over, catch, run for .2 seconds & then the engine will cut out, but all the electronics will work) THEN! if you can get it started, it needs to be reeved constantly or it will stall when it idles. Lastly, if the conditions are ridiculously horrible, & you need to go some place, you have to '2 foot drive' the little beauty to whereever you're going. Now, she's been in to see the Ford mechanics and has 'stumped' them.
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I've owned a manual 2002 Ford Focus ZX5 for 5 years. I bought it with 77,000 miles and it now has 112,400. I've been pretty good at having the oil changes and tune-ups at the right mileage. This last time I took it to a new service place, they suggested I looked into changing the Manual Transmission Fluid. I have never had it done, and I'm not really sure about the previous owner. What's your take on this? I've done some research and opinions seem to differ quite a bit about at what mileage the transmission fluid should be changed.
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What besides a 4" exhaust can I do to lower EGT? When I tow with my tow tune the EGT gets high on long steep pulls. Would like to be able to use it with the tune because there is more power and it pulls nicer, but I want to lower my EGT. I have a 4" flo pro system coming. What else can I do? Would a new intercooler make much of a difference? Already have an S&B cold intake and Banks Hi Ram.
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