Ford - Focus :: Rapid Clicking Noise At Low Speed While Braking
Feb 21, 2013
2002 Ford Focus SE Mileage: 140000
Symptoms: When turning right, especially at low speed while braking, it makes this rapid clicking noise, disappears once you let go of the brake.
In the past when it made this kind of noise, usually goes away after I made sure the brake pads clips are securely clipped around the caliper, but it's not working this time. No noise while braking going forward or turning left. Seems to be worse at lower speed and any right turn can bring on the noise, does not have to be a full-lock turn.
So far what I've done: Made sure the brake pads clips are secured (horribly designed), lug nuts are torqued at correct spec, no obvious broken linkage, bar, arm, coil, or CV boots under quick inspection.
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Ever since I had my Prius in the dealership for the most recent brake recall I noticed a noise (which is hard to describe, something like a muffled clicking) when turning and braking at low speed. If I let my foot off the brake the noise seems to go away. This seems to be happening on both left and right turns.
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So I was trying to put led turn signals in my truck then I decided not to because it was getting too dark. Earlier today started without complaints. Then after I was done with the headlights I tried to start my truck, nothing besides rapid clicking. First thought was battery was dead from me leaving the dome light on the entire time while working on it and also having the headlights on a good portion, so I decide I'll jump it. Get it all hooked up and and start the donor truck then wait 2 mins and try to start my truck still nothing but rapid clicks. I got the voltage meter out to check the battery and had 11.97 volts (that's not great but either way it wouldn't start when I tried to jump it). Put it on a charger? Bad starter? Solenoid?
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So my truck is making a rapid clicking type of noise out of the vents when the ac is turned on.
The noise sounds like a thin piece of paper getting hit by a fan (that's what I hear) It started during this past winter when I would cold start the truck. but as the heater warmed up it went away completely. well now since its warm out I am running the ac now, and it blows cold but doesn't have a lot of volume to it it seems. but being the problem was when the truck was cold running the cold ac makes the noise permanent.
The blend door acutator is working as should (i can only assume the blend door is ok) the vacuum lines are good and vacuum signal is good.
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I have a 05 V8 with just over 1000 miles on it. The other day while driving with the driver window down, I had the trans in sport mode. As I accelerated quickly and got the rpm's pretty high, I noticed a rapid clicking noise coming from the underside of the car. It sounded like it was below the driver seat area. The clicking I heard sounded electronic, and can be best described as similar to the noise a playing card makes when kids put them in the spokes of their bicycles. The noise became apparent as the car reached the next shift point, and stopped after the shift. As the rpm's rose and it reached the next shift point, I heard it again. I have been able to duplicate the sound in tip mode as well, but I mostly hear it when it's in sport mode as it's easier to get the rpm's up before the shift.
I took the car in and took the service manager for a ride. He claimed he couldn't hear it. So I got my salesman to let me drive another 05 V8 and I heard it on that car too, but not as severe as on mine.
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Went to go turn on my car today and it made a rapid clicking noise. When I turned it off and locked it, the lights keep flashing on and off...
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I recently replaced my starter pin my Hyundai Sonata 06 v6 3.3 gls. Installing it was no real issue, but one (there is only one a single wire not the one that you fix on with a bolt and nut) of the electrical connectors from the car to the starter solenoid. The plastic around the conductor pretty much crumbled around my finger, what this connector is called specifically. Now the contacts will not contact properly so i suspect this the source of the rapid clicking issue, since my battery was fully charged. I plan to go to the junkyard too if i can find a replacement. Looking for specifics on the electrical connector?
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The sound emanates approximately from the area of the coolant storage tank (driver's side, behind the front bumper), though I doubt the tank or its pump is the problem. It sounds only when the car is in 'ready' status. I also think it is not one of the relays in the nearby fusebox. There water-pump drive belt is not on that side, so I don't think it's the water pump or its idler pulley. I have posted a ten-second sound recording on YouTube, greatly amplified. (Ignore the video portion.)
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So this is a two-part question because that's the type of day that I'm having. 1st, I went out to start my car to find that it won't. The radio and lights come on, but it won't actually start, and makes a rapid, loud, clicking noise. I have a video of this however...
My boyfriend thought perhaps I need a jump start, so we were going to try that first but when we went to pull the latch inside the car to open the hood, we found that it doesn't work. So now we can't get the hood open.
So, I'd like to first know how I can get my hood open easily, and what may be going on with it not starting.
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I have a 2002 impala that has occasionally not started. The problem started a couple months ago, once it started getting cold here in the midwest. Every few weeks when I turned the key, nothing would happen. It only happened occasionally, and after waiting a bit it would start normally. I did some reading and suspected it was the anti theft locking the car down. Today I tried jumping the car just to be sure it wasn't the battery, and all of the electronics were very dim. I heard a rapid clicking noise from the dash that continued even after I removed the key. The headlights were rapidly flashing, although also very dim. This continued for about a minute before stopping. I tried letting the battery charge from the jump for about 10 minutes, no change.
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I own a 2006 GS300 for 4 years and I have about 90k miles on it. Just suddenly today when I went to go turn the car on, I hear a rapid loud clicking noise and the engine will not start. I've done some googling and one possible solution is to disconnect the battery to let the car reset and then connect it back. What the cause is? I've replaced the spark plugs a few months ago, but I didn't replace the battery.
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I have determined that I most likely have a bad CV joint - a faint clicking sound while braking that varies with speed that happens with the car in drive, but not in neutral.
I've also found instructions here on how to remove/replace the axle, but I'm wondering if it can be done without separating the tie rod end and removing the ball joint. On other cars I've managed to do this by unbolting the strut, which allowed the hub assembly to flop out enough to be able to slide the axle out of it. Is this possible on the Prius? I have to replace my struts anyway so I was hoping to do it all at once and avoid dealing with potentially frozen suspension components.
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I get a creaking/clicking noise coming from my front wheels when braking at slow speed. can be rhythmic at times which makes be think it may be a ball joint or bearing.
Also it may be related or unrelated... Between 70-80km/h my front driver side wheel gives off a "Hum". I thought it may have been unbalanced wheels since it started when I put the summer rubber on, but the tire shop said they are balanced and thats not it. The Hum goes away when driving at any other speed.
Just last month I had my brakes done (a couple weeks prior to changing my rubber).
Front: New Rotors, Pads, Shims
Rear: Machined rotors, New Pads & Shims
Brake Flush Performed.
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When starting, rapid clicking like failing batteries. Had dealer install new Motorcraft batteries, and it's still happening. Clicks when i turn the key and then labors while turning over for 20 seconds. Sometimes it takes 2 or three times before it starts. I put in a rebuilt alternater 5 years ago. It seems like a fuel problem, but I'm guessing.
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1999 ford F250 SD V10 ... When this goes on the truck misfires and tries to die. Usually I can key the ignition in nuetral and the clicking stops and the truck starts and runs better....
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It's a 2003 Ford F-150. When I'm driving slow I hear what sounds like a tin can clanking up against another piece of metal, coming from the rear end. Right, Left, or center I'm not sure. U-joint maybe?
There is also a bit of wobbling when I'm braking at a high rate of speed.
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This morning I went thru a known rough patch on the road and was applying light pressure on the brakes as usual (EV doing about 20 mph). Once the wheels started bumping, a loss of deceleration occurred as expected but what I did not expect was a fairly fast clicking sound (about 30Hz). I *believe* it sounded like the click that is heard when the traction battery is engaged in READY mode, but I'm not completely sure. Where it came from since I was using the A/C and rag chewing on the ham radio. The clicking subsided once I lifted the foot from the brake pedal and reapplied the brakes. No indicator lights came on and the car continued behaving normally.
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I purchased a 2011 Sonata Limited Edition TODAY. It was a lucky find as the car has less than 30k miles. As I was driving home (back roads and interstate), I heard a clicking noise every time I hit the brakes. I do not hear this noise when I back up and brake, only when the car is in drive and I am braking.
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I have had my Prius for over a year and this has never happened to me before. Two days ago, about 3 minutes after starting driving, the display switched to a rectangle with BRAKING written in the middle with rapid beeps. This flashed very briefly on the display and nothing else happened. There was no one in front of me at a close distance and the cruise control was not engaged. I discarded it as a fluke.
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The noise is somewhere between a tin rattle and a bearing grinding heard most when braking but constant under say 10 mph. We have not been able to pinpoint where exactly it is coming from but I believe it is front drivers side.(but really could be anywhere) it is not dependent on rpm, nor gear or clutch engagement, Nor hubs engaged or disengaged.
The drives side front hub, rear hubs' bearings(races and seals) have been replaced. I have the passenger side front hub to do as well, just haven't gotten to it yet and it doesn't seem bad. we are all stumped on what it is. It seems to relate to the rotating assembly though as it seems to change with speed. it almost seems like tire rub, but there is no scaring or marks of any sort anywhere for it.
Vehicle is a e99 f250 short bed ext cab. open diff if it makes any difference. My next thought after the hub is pinion bearing? Could it be something to do with abs? say the truck is 4 wheel abs but the fronts are disconnected (trying to figure out if it is 4wabs as it appears to have connectors, but the original hubs did not have the hole for the sensors. no abs light comes on, but that could be a bad bulb too)
What we have found is hubs locked or unlocked, 4wd engaged or disengaged, and happens at right around 16 mph, braking, accelerating, clutch in or out, in gear or in neutral. All 4 corners have new bearings. We have found 2 things, 1 is the track bar bushings are shot (don't think this is the source of the noise but could be wrong and i will be replacing those..once I have money in again.. 2 the passenger side leaf spring when wacked with your hand makes a different sound than the drivers side.( could be a matter of different loads, but figured worth noting)
There are 2 noises, the first is the noise we hear, the second is one that i found when doing the noise reduction (loud meaty tires you cant hear the noise in the audio without reduction) I think that that was one of the hubs, or maybe the brakes, I am unsure, but it happens at different locations in the video.
Audio : [URL] ....
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Just yesterday, my 2001.5 Passat GLX had trouble starting. I got a lot of rapid clicking and after a few tries, it finally turned over. Then I drove it around a bit and it started fine after a quick lunch. A few hours later, it hesitated again, so i thought maybe I didn't charge it up enough, so I took a trip down to my local Kragen and thought I'd get the battery tested just in case.
They did a test of the battery with some handheld device and said it came back fine. The guy did say that if I could take the battery out and bring it back, they could test it in a different machine, though, but otherwise the battery was charging fine and was holding the charge fine.
This morning I started up the car to see if it would start. Started fine. Then I did it again and it started fine again. OK, must have just drained somehow and now it's got some juice again. Fast forward to this afternoon and my wife was going to the grocery store and she says "The car is dead!". Yup, dead. Just rapid clicking again, but not turning over.
After checking out some threads in here it looks like it could be the battery. And it is about 5 years old according to the date sticker on it (Duralast, btw). So to test it as best I could, I charged it up with a battery charger, then took a reading with my multimeter. With the car off, I could literally see the voltage dropping in the readings. It started around 13v, but got progressively lower and lower as if it was a timer counting down seconds. I then disconnected the Terminals and took more readings. This time the voltage maintained it's reading and was static.
ok, so now maybe something is draining the battery (and fast!). One thing I noticed when I re-connected the Terminals is a sort of whining sound coming from the area of the coolant reservoir. When I put my ear closer, I could hear liquid moving around there. Is that normal that it would be on when the car if off? Could that be my culprit?
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