I've switched the fuel pump on this car more than once and made sure the fuel line isn't crimped yet it still hesitates. Also, the temp. shoots up when idling and appears to need either a fan or temp. switch?
View 4 Replies2007 Honda Odyssey. 105,000. Temperature about 0. 6 hour drive. About 15 minutes from destination, no heat, car starts blowing cold air. Temperature gauge still registers in normal range. Arrive at destination. Later that night, drove about 15 minutes to local ER, and drove back from ER about 2 hours later. No heat, but car otherwise fine. Next day (happened to be Christmas Day), begin drive home. Drive a little more than 15 minutes (about a minute passed the hospital), stopped at a stop light. Car stalls and dies. Restarts, but immediately temperature gauge shoots way paste "H" in a bad way.
Over the next day, local mechanic (in Petoskey MI) checks car, says it is low two gallons of coolant. He says radiator leaks, but he has no radiators there. Everything else works fine, and he says it is safe to drive back to Chicago, as long as I stop to check coolant. Drive home to Chicago, no leakage. Everything works fine. Get home, take car to local Honda dealer. They do "pressure test." Find no leak. Head Gaskets are fine. They see evidence of massive coolant leak (dried coolant all over catalytic converter closest to radiator, and over lower portion of radiator) but find no leak, and coolant level is fine. No sign of any leaks at top of radiator. So, what gives? Car is since running fine, no leaks. Everything works. Still driving in extreme weather in Chicago. Coolant level normal.
my 88 camry will start and idle fine however whenever you attempt to accelerate the vechicle the car trys to stall and hesitate badly and will not move. i have changed the fuel filter the spark plugs and plug wires i cannot figure it out. also this started out of nowere the car was driving i had been driving for about ten miles stopped at a red light and that is when the car started doing this.
View 9 RepliesMy 2008 Ford Focus SE hesitates at highway speeds, seems to decelerate and accelerate, sometimes more, sometime less and sometime not at all. dosn't seem to affect the acceleration.
View 1 RepliesFord Focus 2004 manual 150K miles. Most days the car runs fine. Other days it will start and run until it warms up, then stumbles or hesitates at speed. When this happens the headlights and dash lights are also flickering. Sometimes i hear a clicking sound behind dash, left side. I have the sure cure: turn the heater fan to high. This works every time. When the engine is hesitating, i turn the fan to 4-high, the engine smooths out. Turn the fan down, engine again hesitates. Hesitates at 3, worse at 2, worst at 1. It seems to need the extra load.
But after few minutes of high heater fan, the alternator light comes on. I flick the heater switch down, endure the hesitation for a few seconds, the alternator light goes out, engine still hesitating, flick the fan to high, engine smooths out. A few months ago i could get it to fun smoothly with the fan on 3, didn't need 4-high. Now seems to need 4.On the days when it is always running smoothly, the heater fan can be on any speed, the alternator light does not come on.
Next few days or even weeks the engine will run smoothly, no hesitation, with the fan on or off or any setting.
The car has been to three shops in past year, one of them a major Ford dealer, who kept it two weeks. The problem has been diagnosed as battery (replaced), Battery connections (checked), plugs (replaced), fuel pump controller (replaced), fuel pump (replaced - ouch!), alternator (replaced twice - ouch twice), grounds (checked). Every time they "fix" something the car runs ok for a week or so.OBD shows P2004 (intake manifold runner stuck) but all agree it can't be the problem.
There have been a few times when i flicked the heater fan to high that all the dash lights died, fan went off, headlights off, turn signals didnt' work, but the engine ran smoothly. Not so good on the highway at night!There have been a few time, not recently, when the car wouldn't start. No dome lights, no dash lights with key turned to ON, no clicking or starter with key turned to START. It acted as if my battery was missing. The cure was to turn the headlights on. All normal after that.
Just purchased a beautiful 2007 ES 350. Love it but when I start it first thing in the morning, the idles shoots to 1800 for a second then up to 2000 for about 10 seconds then slowly comes down to 600ish. Also, during this "1800 and 2000" time, the oil maintenance light comes for a few seconds. Oil was changed just prior to purchase. Car has 100k and rides immaculate- 25.5 mpg mixed.
View 4 RepliesMy 2003 2.0 Zetec focus wagon has a problem when I hit the gas from a dead stop. The car hesitates for a second or 2, like it's not getting enough fuel, then it revs up OK. Not all the time though, about 1 in every 5 stops. Once it's moving, there's no problem, you can accelerate just fine. I replaced the fuel filter and added fuel treatment. I also saw it had a real bad valve cover leak that had flooded all the spark plug wells. I replaced the gasket, plugs and wires, but it didn't seem to make a difference. Using a scanner, I monitored fuel pressure at idle, it was about 38.5 PSI. When I hit the gas it it went up to about 40 PSI. I think maybe the ignition module/coil might be going out, but don't want to replace it unless I have to.
View 2 RepliesWe have a Ford Focus wagon that idles rough once the engine starts coming up to temperature. When you first start the car it's fine. For example, today I started the car, drove it up the road to the store and it was fine, but upon returning to my driveway just a few minutes later, as the engine temperature was just starting to come up, it started idling really rough. The idle is so rough it sounds like it's on the verge of stalling, but it never has actually stalled. An oxygen sensor has been replaced and it was good for a while, but now the problem is back. The check engine light is on as well.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 Ford Focus. The heat in my car stays hot while I am driving but when I stop at a light or slow down the heat goes very cool.
View 1 RepliesAbout a year and a half ago I moved from Chicago (500 feet above sea level) to Morelia, Mexico (6,200 feet above sea level). My gas mileage on my 2000 Ford Focus has plummeted, I used to get anywhere from 22 to 26 miles to the gallon around town in Chicago but I am lucky to get 14 or 15 here. Is it simply a function of altitude? I have a good mechanic, keep everything tuned up and in good shape.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford Focus ZX5 with about 108,000 miles on it. It's driven far distances, about 700 miles round trip, a couple times a month. About about three times since last summer, approximately halfway through one leg (at around 200 miles in), the engine starts jerking when accelerating. It doesn't happen on every trip, and seems to only happen on hotter days.
(Driving around town short distances, even at high RPMs doesn't present a problem at all, it's specifically after a couple hundred miles.) The engine light has flashed, but not every time the jerking occurs and hasn't stayed on, and the code that was pulled doesn't seem to be telling either the mechanics or Ford know what the deal is. I'm looking at having the whole transmission swapped for well over a grand, but with the disclaimer that it's not a guaranteed fix.
Recently I was driving on the highway, about 70 miles into my trip, when all of a sudden my cruise control kicked out and the rpms went high and then I lost acceleration. I pulled over to the berm and tried to take off. Problem is I could not get the car past 30mph because the accelerator pedal could. not be pushed down more than an inch or two no matter how hard I pushed. What could be wrong???
View 1 RepliesI just changed the engine in my 96 Honda civic, 1.6 base model. The change over went well and had no problems. When I have the car idle and it gets up to temp, the RPM's go from 2000 down to 500 then jumps to 2000 then down 500 again. When I put it into gear, drive or reverse, it stops jumping. What did I do wrong?
View 4 Replies03 focus SE Wagon, Automatic Tran, has a bit of a problem. Whenever it gets driven through a puddle (big, small, paddling pool, etc.) it will make this high pitch squealing noise, and then when it gets shut off after driving through said puddle, will have trouble starting. (It will turn over, catch, run for .2 seconds & then the engine will cut out, but all the electronics will work) THEN! if you can get it started, it needs to be reeved constantly or it will stall when it idles. Lastly, if the conditions are ridiculously horrible, & you need to go some place, you have to '2 foot drive' the little beauty to whereever you're going. Now, she's been in to see the Ford mechanics and has 'stumped' them.
View 4 RepliesI have purchased a 2007 Sonata GLS that was involved in a front-end collission. The car has been rebuilt with and now the engines heats with the temperature going up to the red zone when idling after approximately 40 minutes of driving or sitting for 20 minutes or so in very heavy traffic. It is completely fine when driving at about 20-30mph, and even if it came to the red zone and we start driving it, it cools down within a minute or so.
I have read other related threads and tried to read everything that google could find related to this issue. I don't see any blown fuses and or wires not connected / loose. My battery went out yesterday but it had 500 CCA (cold cranking amps when my car needed 600, it was replaced yesterday, just in case it works.
So from my investigation, the only thing I have no clue about is the small fuse box located in the engine compartment in front of the main fuse panel. I am including pictures of it. On the cover, it says that it needs two fuses, both 60A, one for AGCS (Active Geometry Controlled System, I believe) and the other one for COOLING.
So even the dealerships in the area don't know what the box is for or at least that's what they say. All I see inside in the box is two black thick wires and they are connected, not even sure what the fuses are for.
I got an 88 celica convertible from my neighbor. This is a fixer upper. It needs a battery and an alternator. But i jumped it and after idling for 10 minutes, the temperature Gauge was almost in the red. Yes the radiator has water in it. Is it the thermostat? Or the head gasket?
View 2 RepliesRecently I've noticed that when I take my car up to highway speeds- 55 MPH or higher- the engine feels as though it hesitates- I don't actually slow down, but I have trouble accelerating beyond where it starts to lag. It's like an imaginary bump my car is going over where the engine isn't fully accelerating. Happens for a second, then goes away, but lately it's happening often- several times in a row- it just feels laggy, sometimes continuously, and i've got a bad feeling about it.Tires and brakes are completely new (Nov 2011, calipers, rotors, and pads replaced), oil level is checked weekly and has been fine lately. ~200k miles. It's a manual/ 4spd, I don't know if this is clutch/ transmission slippage, or if I have a piston misfiring, OR if maybe it's a fuel injection problem,,,,
View 9 Replies2011 Focus 2.0L L4 engine, manual transmission, 70K miles - when up-shifting gears, the throttle remains high, dropping v-e-r-y slowly instead of dropping rapidly when the throttle is released. It is the same when not moving, when the throttle is run up to steady RPM's, then the pedal is released, the RPM's drop slowly. This has started recently, at first I thought it was just 'operator error', and that our shifting skills were deteriorating with age (ours, not the car), but testing has proven the fault lies with the vehicle. I researched sticking throttle issues, and thought I had located the problem as a bad throttle body assembly. Changed it out with a new one, went thru the computer reset procedure,and the problem still exists. No error codes are showing, but the little yellow wrench light is lit on the dash (resets each startup. Vehicle drives fine otherwise, no loss of power, etc.
View 10 RepliesI have a 94 ranger 5 speed xlt v6 4.0l 288k miles original engine. in the last month the oil pressure has gradually gone way up. a manual gauge shows 65psi at cold start ( in the 90* out side) after a minute of idle it dropped to 60psi, at 2k rpms the psi was 85+. also the water temp has gotten hotter to the point of almost being unsafe. it appears that in the hotter part of the day the psi goes higher. the oil and filter was changed 1200 miles ago. the cooling system has been update in the last year with a new radiator new thermostat. no cross contamination in the fluids, engine runs good other than gauges on dash showing water and oil getting close to unsafe range and manual gauge showing high pressure.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2009 ford focus The rpms are hight and the transmission is not shifting .
View 7 Replies I have a 2005 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6 2wd Edge, with around 175,000 miles. It runs great, however the RPM's are slow to return and it seems to idle a little high for longer than you would expect when starting the engine. For example, exiting off the freeway with the clutch depressed, the RPM's will drop from approximately 2300, pause at 1800 for a second, then drop and pause at 1100 for a few seconds before returning to idle. If stationary and rev the engine, they seem to drop back normally.
So far I have changed the IAC valve and checked for vacuum leaks (not sure how exhaustive a check it was but sprayed every joint I could find). My mechanic agrees that it is abnormal, but has suggested that we wait for it to worsen enough to throw a code rather than spend a lot of time and money replacing things that may not be a problem. Also the throttle cable appears to be functioning normally and not sticking.