Ford - Focus :: Engine Hesitation / Electrical Spurt On Radio And Speedometer Needle
Jul 8, 2013
I drive a stick Ford Focus 2002 and when I accelerate, the car hesitates/bogs down. This happens more when it is going up and heavily loaded. It happens more on low RPM but it also happens on high RPM. I can accelerate on idle and it does not have any problem. At the same time, I know when this is happening, or about to happen, because the radio volume rises suddenly together with the speedometer needle that goes crazy (up to 150mph) while the car is going at 30mph. The radio volume and speedometer needle settle down after the spurt.
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2010 Ford Focus. My fiancee noticed that when accelerating, the car has an electrical sounding whine coming from the engine. It only occurs when we're accelerating and pitches a bit higher when we're turning
We have until Thursday to return the return the car if their is an issue.
I've attached a video of her revving the engine.
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2001 F250 SD, V10, Auto, 155K miles
While driving home from work I noticed the needle jump from around 55 to 70 on the display, then settle back in at 55 ish. First I just caught it out of the corner of my eye, but watched more closely, and it did it again as I drove. The tow/haul override button on the shifter was blinking also, (as if it was "Mad" about something)..
Then I noticed that the jump of the Speedometer needle was linked to when I changed from High to Low on the headlights, and vise-versaI was NOT in cruise mode The voltmeter did not EVER waver. (I thought that the increased current might be causing a temporary problem of sorts). Where to start looking?
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My 2007 gs350 is acting up lately, I was on freeway doing around 70mph but speed needle only pointed at 40mph on the gauge. Could it be speed sensor?
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Noticed this at speeds below 40 MPH. My speedometer needle will wobble a small amount, but over 40 MPH its is dead steady. I have noticed this a few times.
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I have a 2003 Ford Focus ZX5 automatic with 143k miles on it. Recently I've run into a problem with the speedometer and RPM gauges dropping down to 0, no reading. It is an intermittent problem and has no logical connection to any of the other functions of the vehicle (it can happen while the car is idling, in motion, upon startup, etc etc.) Everything else on the instrument cluster works perfectly fine, (odometer still reads correctly and works, gas gauge is fine, etc). I'm thinking maybe it is an electrical issue since the car seems to be in fine working condition other than that, even when it drops out. The gauges won't start reading again until I start the car up...and sometimes that is not a guarantee. I use this vehicle to commute locally 4 days a week and I've already put a lot of money into new components for the vehicle.
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Our '91's speedometer needle wobbles +/- 5mph at lower speeds, but evens out and becomes steady at higher speeds.
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When the weather is rainy or just very humid, the speedometer needle in my 2000 Accent jumps all over the place. According to the service dept. at my local dealership it is most likely the speed sensor causing the problem.
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My needle is, lets say, vibrating..when I am driving more than 50 kph my speedometer needle is vibrating ,it is dancing up and down.
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I was driving my Oldsmobile the other day and the speedometer needle seemed to "bounce" up and down and then stop. I removed the cable and it is intact I can spin it and the other end spins. I jacked the rear end up (both wheels off the ground and started it up and put it in HI. I did not see the output shaft turning. Which leads me to ask a whole bunch of questions. Can I get a new output shaft (aftermarket) or do I need to find another Hydramatic and cannibalize it. I also wonder if the fact that two years ago my speedometer cable came loose at the transmission and the road wore the end off so I replaced the core with an aftermarket one'
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In my current speedometer the speed needle doesn't work i did everything and changed all sensors and checked all related issues and all is fine turned out the issue was with the speed gauge it self. So i bought my self a used speedometer.
Now my question is, how to dismantle the speedometer cause I want to take out the speed gauge from my old one a replace it with the new one i know its much easy to change the whole thing but I don't want to play with the mileage I have on my car.
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Every now and then, when I start my car, the speedometer needle pegs completely to the right and then settles down and acts normally. Why does this happen and what does it indicate? The car is a 1995 Chrysler Concorde.
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I have a 98 Civic with 218,000 miles. It's my around town car (the bigger more expensive car sits in the garage most of the time). The speedometer whacked out about a month ago. The needle will sit and quiver on 20 mph when I start it, when I'm going 60, and at stop lights. Suddenly, with no apparent reason the needle will jump to to the correct speed, work correctly and then as suddenly drop back to 20. I replaced the speed sensor (an easy job) and that didn't fix it. What else might be going on? Wiring harness? What would I do with the wiring? I do a lot of low level maintenance myself; oil, plugs, brakes, struts, but I've never done wiring work.
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I have a really weird issue with my 2003 Ford Focus. Manual transmission, just over 50,000 miles. I've been noticing a stumble or hesitation (like the engine is cutting out) at steady speed, but ONLY when it is snowy out, more if it's windy as well. I don't recall that this happens if it's rainy or foggy. All maintenance is performed as specified, to include air filter changes.
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So my girlfriend got a 2002 Jetta Wagon 2.0 automatic (PRND321, no tiptronic). She noted when she was driving fast on the driveway highway one day her speedo stopped climbing and would wiggle around 60mph and not go any further even if she was going 80+.
I would have thought first that the speed sensor would be messed up. Went to the junkyard and pulled 2 speed sensors for cheaper then 1/4 of new. Put the newer cleaner part on and the same exact issues. Locks up and wont climb past ~65mph and the needle wiggles. I am guessing its not the sensor. Question is what could cause it? Could it be the actual internal gear in that meshes with the transmission? Ill try replacing, i have extra i think. But could this be a cluster or a computer issue? And the odometer is also off. When it gets stuck at the slow speed, the mileage won't count at the full speed. She drove to a friends at a known 80 miles away and it only said its was low 70-something on the gauge when she got there. So there is a discrepancy of mileage count too.
I am going to head to the junkyard soon and thinking of pulling a cheap cluster to try it out, but I also heard you might need a VCDS for the immobilizer in the cluster. And the mileage is stored on the cluster or not? What should I pursue next?
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So i noticed recently. The speedometer needle would jitters/shake/doesn't move smoothly when driving around 110km/h to 120 km/h. Approximately 75 mph. I'm in 6th gear when this happens. I haven't tried down shifting to 4th or 5th to see what happens, but maybe i should try that. This happens while trying to accelerate. The car has barely any power at that point. If i stay at a steady speed, the needle doesn't jitter.
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I have a 95 Honda Accord V6, the D4 light is flashing and the speedometer needle does not work. When in stop and go traffic, the needle bounces around and makes the car stall and downshift and rev up. I replaced the speed sensor with no change.
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I have a 1983 E350 RV with a 460 engine. It would appear that many "Mechanics" have altered the wiring in different ways. That being said I think the charging and starting electrics are fairly untouched. My issue is that once it has been running for a while the interior lights start to fluctuate so does the radio display. The AC fan speeds up and slows down and I feel like there is not enough gas being pumped up too due to some coughing and sputtering. When I press the brakes the radio stops playing and if I have the AC on it gets worse. Today I changed the voltage regulator and it made no difference. This vehicle has two batteries, one for starting the van like normal and one to run the coach part. The alternator charges both. I think it must be a bad ground somewhere but not sure where to start.
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We have a brand new 2013 Ford Focus, a little over 2500 miles. We drove the vehicle to NYC, starting the trip with over 500 miles. During stop-n-go driving the following conditions are experienced: - car in drive but stopped, engine idles at 750rpm- car moving at crawl speed, less than 5mph, and RPM between 750 to 2100, engine acts as if it will stall (IT IS AN AUTOMATIC TRANS); when this happens there's an obvious shudder - again almost as if the car will stall out- cannot determine what gear its in, but probably first, second, or maybe third, but no higher
We took the car back to the dealer, but they acted as if this was a normal, if not, non existent issue; they were very dismissive.
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I am having a slight issue with my cluster. When I turn the key on or start the car, the speedo needle goes crazy for about a minute then stops above 0mph (points at 5mph when im not moving). While that's happening, the other needles don't work until the speedo normalizes. It also does this when i turn the car off. What this could be? I heard about the VSS can cause speedo issues but what about the rest? I also heard the mk4's can have cluster failures. it's a 99' mk4 vr6 jetta 5spd.
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It appears electrical. With it running and this first symptom usually guarantees that it will stall. You go from park to reverse or drive the speedometer needle will begin pulsating. I have notice if this is not happening it won't happen. Next standing still but in drive or reverse if you turn the heater, radio, lights or the AC pump kicks on. Boom the car stall and almost act like the key switch was turned off then back on. It also has happened while moving but it does not stall but all of the dash light pop on as if you just turn the car on.
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