2010 Ford Focus. My fiancee noticed that when accelerating, the car has an electrical sounding whine coming from the engine. It only occurs when we're accelerating and pitches a bit higher when we're turning
We have until Thursday to return the return the car if their is an issue.
I've attached a video of her revving the engine.
2004 Ford Focus ZX3. Manual Transmission. Alternator replaced 1-2 years ago for different symptoms/issue.
My problem is that the headlights dim or flash (pulse down to very very dim then back to full) when accelerating or decelerating. Pretty much only when in gear.They will go back to normal when I depress the clutch pedal (usually I think) or am coasting in neutral. The fan in the car and other electrics/indicators seem to suffer from same power fluctuations too.
A little while after seeing this, I noticed a faint then more pronounced clicking coming from left side of dash. (Fuse/relay box?) It seemed to click when the "shift" light would pop on and off about 20% of the time the light did. Otherwise mostly when accel/decel.I started pulling relays and driving around a parking lot to see if it was one. The click seemed to disappear after pulling the horn relay. (And not the "Battery saver" relay next to it. Odd) The clicking issue does not happen all of the time when driving. The power dimming does.
I took my car to the car wash and they seemed to take longer to vacuum/wash it and while driving it away, I noticed something was off. It seems like the engine is louder than normal. Before when starting the car, it would take 30 seconds to a minute before the battery/engine would come on. Then while accelerating to about 25-35 mph, then the engine would come into gear. When going on the freeway, if accelerating at a quick speed it would sound really loud. Now, it seems like instead of silent, quiet, a little louder, louder and loudest - it's moved to the next level. When starting the car, the engine starts right away and when driving away (at less than 25 mph), the engine sound like I am on the freeway and when I'm on the freeway it sound like I'm trying to gun the engine. I don't know what it could be.
View 1 RepliesI drive a stick Ford Focus 2002 and when I accelerate, the car hesitates/bogs down. This happens more when it is going up and heavily loaded. It happens more on low RPM but it also happens on high RPM. I can accelerate on idle and it does not have any problem. At the same time, I know when this is happening, or about to happen, because the radio volume rises suddenly together with the speedometer needle that goes crazy (up to 150mph) while the car is going at 30mph. The radio volume and speedometer needle settle down after the spurt.
View 9 RepliesLately I have noticed (when driving with my windows down) that there is a very distinct "whine" coming from the transmission area when accelerating through the low gears. Best I can describe it as is a quieter version of the sound a car makes in reverse. I can't hear it with the window is up, only when the drivers side is down. The car drives normal, and I haven't noticed an issues except I can hear this noise in the low gears. Has it always been there, it's normal and I am just "tuned into it" now, or is it a sign of problems to come?
View 14 RepliesOn start up I constantly get a almost dial up Internet connection sounding noise coming from my engine (2.5)? I've been told that it could be from the cold weather ,,,,
View 4 RepliesI've got a 2003 f150 supercrew with a 5.4 in it. I have a whine coming from the engine bay. I thought it was the power steering pump and changed that and that wasn't it. I'm thinking its the idler or tensioner pully. I've ruled out the alternator by wrapping rags around it and it didn't dampen the sound any.
View 5 RepliesWe have a Ford Focus wagon that idles rough once the engine starts coming up to temperature. When you first start the car it's fine. For example, today I started the car, drove it up the road to the store and it was fine, but upon returning to my driveway just a few minutes later, as the engine temperature was just starting to come up, it started idling really rough. The idle is so rough it sounds like it's on the verge of stalling, but it never has actually stalled. An oxygen sensor has been replaced and it was good for a while, but now the problem is back. The check engine light is on as well.
View 2 RepliesI just purchased a 2013 Ford Focus hatchback SE Monday night. Tuesday morning I came out of the house to get in my car, I unlocked the car, and opened the door. Before I even got into the car I heard a "scratch scratch scratch whirr whirr" coming from the engine. The dealer did not show me where the hood latch was so by the time I figured out how to open the hood the noise had stopped (within a minute of when it started.) Driving that day I did not notice any more noise, nor any issues with the engine.
Wednesday morning (today) I came out to get in my car, and when I opened the door I heard the same nose coming from under the hood. I got the hood open and looked in with a flashlight while the nose was still going. The noise was coming from the right hand side of the engine block, but I did not see anything actually moving to cause the scratching and whirring noise.
I have a 2012 Ford Focus with automatic transmission with about 22k miles on it. No check engine lights on. When accelerating from standstill it always stutters a little as if it's not really 'catching on' properly (just in "first gear" it seems). It doesn't do it once you're beyond 5 - 10 mph and it doesn't do it either when for instance stepping on the gas pedal while driving. Only from standstill. It also doesn't seem to go away when the car has been driven for a little while. It's always there. What could be causing this?
View 4 RepliesI recently noticed a very noticeable whine coming from the engine bay during acceleration. It is especially noticeable when accelerating hard to about 4000 rpm and then letting off the gas completely. The pitch changes with RPMs as it spins down. It literally sounds like a super charger spooling up. The car only has 4000 miles and seems to have been doing it since new.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3L RWD AUTO.
I've never had this problem but now I can hear what appears to be a electrical noise or grind/whine. This just started happening on Monday. Prior to that I've never heard nor seen my speedometer bounce like this.
I've read that it's the rear diff ABS sensor possibly going bad. So I should have a new one tomorrow via amazon. I have also read that it's possibly the battery? I know the previous owner said he replaced the battery but this was at LEAST 2 years ago. So I know there is a solid 24 months on the battery now, since I've owned the truck...
I've also read that it might be the speedo? These actually go bad? Makes me wonder because of the noise you can hear towards the end like a whine noise. I have noticed that the battery gauge looks a little lower than before... normally it would be at around the MIDDLE of the battery icon and as you can see in the pic it's not now... however, the truck starts up perfectly fine, no hesitation at all or trouble, or having to do it multiple times.. so that makes me wonder is it really the battery?
I have projector HIDS and LEDS inside and have had them for at least a year now, I've noticed today pulling in the garage that the right hid was not flickering on and off persay but the beam wasn't steady like it was.. it was kinda dimming a little along with the interior cabin LEDS.... Battery? Alternator? I'm truely at a loss.
I've also heard there are sensors on the transmission that dictate the speed to the speedometer, problem is I don't know which ones to get.. I don't mind replacing all of them as long as this STOPS.
I did change my rotors and pads, and calipers. This was friday and this didn't happen. I will note that my ABS light is not on nor is it flickering so it makes me wonder as well if that sensor in the rear is bad? I didn't see any bare wires everything is taped and loomed, so I don't think anyone cut the wires back there that I could see at all...
Attached the picture of the battery gauge. And link to the video that I took with my phone...
Ford ranger gauge bounce - YouTube .....
A couple years ago my car got stuck in Park, in which I had discovered my brake lights and a few other electrical fuses blew at the same time. It has happened randomly about 4-5 other times since, in which I take it back to the dealership and they "fix it" temporarily. After about a 1 1/2 years of no trouble, it happened again, and the dealership traced it back to the GEM module, which they replaced for me. Electrical components I forgot I had (like automatic locking doors) came back- for about a week. I got stuck in Park again, lost my break lights, as well as some other functions. I haven't noticed this problem on the focus with other discussions. Now it has added to much time in the shop, multiple FORD dealerships unable to fix it properly, and lots of wasted money. Shouldn't a new electrical unit fix the problem?
View 6 RepliesI have a 1999 SD V10 with about 133K on it. Runs great to the day. Recently I noticed alot of clicking and rough sounding noise coming from the a/c compressor the other day. Yep I got up underneath it and it look like it's about shot.
My question is : How hard is it to replace the clutch yourself with a new one. Are there any step by step direction here on the ford forums on how to do it. Looks like can just replace the a/c clutch and be good to go. A/C still blows cold air.
I took it to my mechanic the other day and they want $ for a replacement compressor and labor. I'd like to try and avoid that amount for now and just replace the clutch.
2009 Corolla S 1.8l 85K miles
I have let my wife drive my car over the last couple months because she has a much farther commute to work and needs the A/C since its a more professional job than mine.
I noticed the other day when I drove it that there was a really loud whine coming from the engine. We're both Master's students, so I'm pretty bent on not going to the stealership for anything. Would this be the belts?
Here are the videos I took: [URL] ....
I have a 2005 Ford Focus, we bought it used. On occasion it loses power(electrical) and won't start I hear a relay clicking faintly but no attempt by the starter to engage. when this happens the am/fm radio will lose the presets and will actually come on by itself at a am mode and static. when this has happened I have touched various electrical components (battery posts fuses relays etc) and most times on the next try it will start. Sometimes you turn the key back on a couple of times and it starts immediately .
I have had this happen twice while driving down the road and not noticed any change except the radio comes on by itself and presets and clock needs to be reset. I have pulled all fuses and relays to check for any corrosion and plugged all connection etc in and out all looks ok. This might only happen once a month or if vehicle is left setting for a few days Battery is new and checked at 97% unit starts up immediately if problem is not there and it doesn't seem to matter what you touch or move it just starts when it wants to Ford dealer says it needs a new battery (doesn't comment when told it is new and battery and starter work fine when called on except for this glitch).
Our 2008 Honda CR-V w/120k one owner, always dealer maintained, vehicle has recently started exhibiting a little high pitch whine coming from the engine area which increases when you rev the gas. I checked the transmission dipstick and the level is just below the bottom hole (owners manual says it should be between the bottom and top hole). Would this make the whine? By adding some fluid should it go away? Is it okay to use a fluid other than Honda's?
View 3 RepliesThe truck is a 2012 f250 6.2 flex fuel from alberta canada. This isn't the first tranny form out there that I've heard do this. Tranny seems fine shifts all right just a whine while accelerating.
View 7 RepliesThe red wire coming from my fire wall is not connected to anything and I need to find what it is supposed to connect too it come out of my firewall near my steering column ... This is and 95 f150 with a 302 engine ...
View 1 RepliesBrand new to diesels with an 02 F250, 7.3 auto, 149k, 4R100. I have been hearing a whine (not the turbo...) for the last few days and after searching the web I'm freaked out about transmission issues. The whine is mostly present in gear while accelerating, I can slightly hear it in park/neutral as well. The sound is a little higher pitched than a power steering pump, pitch rises with acceleration but doesn't FALL as fast as the RPM with shifts, it lags for just a second then drops and starts the climb again with the next gear (i feel like this is indicative of something?). Runs fine and drives like what I would think is normal, only leak i see looks to be from valve covers making its way to everything. Transmission fluid looks great on the dipstick.
View 1 RepliesLooking for your collective expertise
2007 E350 with 5.4L and 4R70W trans. 107K miles and the fluid has probably never been changed ( my mistake - thought it was 100K interval - finding out from my reading that is def not true ). Anyway, following is recent development (last couple days):
Symptom #1: In Park/Neutral there is a whine. As soon as you put it in P or N, the whine 'spins up', stabilizes, and does increase with engine RPM.
Symptom #2: Hesitation (albeit minor) when starting from stop in D and R, with _very_ minor shudder. Sometimes feels like it's struggling a bit to move its own weight just until it's rolling.
Symptom #3: Shudder when accelerating in OD. No shudder when I turn off OD. It does not stop when applying brakes (a test suggested elsewhere). Also, the shudder does not happen when applying gas while braked in D at standstill. Only at highway speeds (enough to be in OD).
This all started at the end of a trip (90 miles or so in 85-90 degrees) when I was pulling a utility trailer (maybe 2000 lbs loaded). Not sure if related, but traction control warning went off a couple times. I think I have a axle seal leak that may be triggering that.
Otherwise shifts fine (no change in shift behavior or smoothness). Things seem to be worse when it has heated up. Should I start with a fluid change? Wasn't sure because there are comments out there saying don't do it or the tranny will just fail faster (I am skeptical).