Ford - Focus :: Electrical Lost - Relay Clicking Faintly But No Attempt By The Starter To Engage
Apr 28, 2013
I have a 2005 Ford Focus, we bought it used. On occasion it loses power(electrical) and won't start I hear a relay clicking faintly but no attempt by the starter to engage. when this happens the am/fm radio will lose the presets and will actually come on by itself at a am mode and static. when this has happened I have touched various electrical components (battery posts fuses relays etc) and most times on the next try it will start. Sometimes you turn the key back on a couple of times and it starts immediately .
I have had this happen twice while driving down the road and not noticed any change except the radio comes on by itself and presets and clock needs to be reset. I have pulled all fuses and relays to check for any corrosion and plugged all connection etc in and out all looks ok. This might only happen once a month or if vehicle is left setting for a few days Battery is new and checked at 97% unit starts up immediately if problem is not there and it doesn't seem to matter what you touch or move it just starts when it wants to Ford dealer says it needs a new battery (doesn't comment when told it is new and battery and starter work fine when called on except for this glitch).
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My mom's 2012 accent won't start. When turning the key the starter does not even attempt to engage. Battery voltage is fine, I also tried jumping it. I have already checked all the fuses and relays and they are good.
Whenever the car is attempted to be started, the Electronic Throttle Body/ MAF makes a high pitched sound but that is all we can get out of the car right now. I also checked the parking sensor by going from Park (P), through all the gears, and then back to Park. Still nada.
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Alright, so my battery is fully charged and there's water in it. When I turn they key, there is a rapid mechanical clicking clearly coming from the starter area, but no attempt to turn over. Stuck solenoid? Bad starter relay? Bad starter? Missing teeth on the flywheel? Seized engine? The Mayan calendar apocalypse?
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So I left my car running ran into a store came out it had turned off so went to start it it and it wouldn't turn over all you could hear was clicking from the starter so had a guy boost it and engine turned over and started just fine but i had no power to anything I couldn't even take the tranny outta park? So i left it sitting for about an hour went back and it fired up just fine? Had battery tested and it was fully charged. Also when car is off and I am inside my interior lights flash on and off as well as there's a beeping like every 5 to 10 minutes.
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I have 2003 Saturn Ion that will not start. I did test on the starter and battery and everything work fine. When I turn the key to start, the starter relay clicks alright but there is no power going through the starter trigger wire to engage the starter; I have checked the starter trigger wire, all the fuses, and all the relays, but there is no power in the trigger wire. Why there is no power in the starter trigger wire when the key is turned to start to engage the starter so that the car will start.
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2005 Ford Focus : About 10 months ago noticed my battery light was faintly visible with car off and key out of ignition. It was faint and erratically pulsing, it also did this when car was running. This issue would last a week or so, then go away for a while...then come back.
Then it spread to include the ABS light too, and eventually became permanent. But six weeks ago, after driving from CA to WI, it went away...for a few weeks, but came back.
A few days ago I went to my car, and it spread to include the checkfuel cap, oil, and door ajar lights. Also a loud beep occurs at erratic intervals. The lights all flash and pulse individually. Most are faint, but the oil light and door ajar light seem full strength. When I turn the key to second position, all the lights light up full strength and solid, like they're supposed to (for the testing phase).
Then once car is on, they go back to flickering faintly...but the loud beep goes away. I'm concerned about the beeping running down the battery with car off-so I pulled out fuse #36, which is for "a/c swith, instrument cluster". This stops the beeping and flickering, cuz the lights no longer have power to them.
The battery voltage is 12.3 volts, and while running it's a steady 14.35 volts.
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In an attempt to bleed my drivers side caliper today I noticed clicking coming from the #2 relay switch under the dash. The clicking stopped once I pulled out the relay. I continued to bleed my caliper which I've been having issues doing so. It was kinda odd how I was able to bleed the caliper after pulling the relay. Is it possible that the [email protected] system could be causing issues with the pcm? 2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles .....
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My wifes 2011 Hyundai Sonata would not start yesterday at the clinic. I purchased a new battery went there today to replace the battery. Before I started the work I tried starting the car. When I turned the key to the on position the radio came on and the dashboard lit up like normal. As soon as I turned the key to start the car the battery went completely dead. The starter did not engage and the electrical went out.
I replaced the battery. When I turned the key to the on position nothing turned on. Not the radio or any of the dashboard lights. I tried starting the car and there was not response, exactly like a dead battery. I purchased a new battery and they tested it right in front of me before giving it to me so I feel like I can rule out the battery.
I double checked that he connections were tight. I tried jiggling the shifter, pushing the brake pedal, jigging the steering wheel around, jiggling the key in the ignition. The positive battery terminal connector has a fuse, it appears to be intact. I also checked the fuse panel in the engine compartment. All of the large fuses are intact (I only looked at the 3 or 4 of the large ones that were visible from the top). I didn't check the smaller fuses, I wasn't sure which ones to check.
A little background;For a couple days in a row my wife was noticing that the car was struggling to start (she didn't mention this to me right away). I noticed that when we were driving it the head lights had a very suttle flicker. When were idling at a stoplight it appeared as if the lights were dimming and getting brighter rapidly. I noticed it from the reflection of a license plate and dismissed it as maybe just the wind causing the license plate on the car ahead of us to wobble. It was suttle and not very pronounced. Yesterday my wife went to the clinic and when she was leaving the car would not start. Someone try with jumper cables but she was not able to get it started. Even after letting it sit for 5 minutes before trying to start it.
My buddy thinks it's the ignition switch itself, but that sounds quite a bit beyond my capacity. I suspected that since the lights were fluttering/dimming that it was an alternator problem. Even if the alternator is bad wouldn't the car still run on a fresh battery?
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Batteries charged, connection & cables checked. After turning ignition switch, gauges on dash jump around & starts clicking in fuse panel. Top left relay then clicking sound from beside steering column on right side next to trailer brake box. Been having electrical issues & something draining batteries...had absolutely no cold start this winter. No decent mechanics here other than to be ripped a new one @ local dealership.
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Neighbor bought a 91 tracker. We put a new battery and alternator in it. We have to jump the vehicle to get it to start. While running with the light on, the lights are extremely dim. Sometimes the vehicle will start again, but most times it won't. What I mean by it won't start is nothing happens when you turn the key. No clicking starter does not engage. Sometime the car will not stay running with out charger attached. Then again sometimes everything is fine.
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My wife has a 01 ford focus zx3 3 door automatic wont start she was driving and it lost power and shut down I replaced the plugs, wires, pcv hose and pcv valve, coil, fuel pump good 40psi, compression 150 to 180, even drop the converter still wont start could the injectors play a role.....
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My 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 6 cylinder, auto trans, with 134K miles has an electric problem. When I turn the key to the 'on' position, all dash lights show normal, headlights work, radio plays, etc. But when I turn the key to the 'start' position, all electric power is lost. The power remains lost until I disconnect and reconnect the battery ground wire. After reconnecting, I again have power until the key is turned to the 'start' position. I was able to jump start the truck, so I assumed I needed a new battery. I bought one a week ago, and was back to normal until today. The truck started, I drove 4 miles to the grocery store, and then I found myself back to square 1 (i.e., the no-start situation).
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My truck has started fine every time I've turned the key except for last night after work. I got in had all the lights on the dash and dome lights. I turned the key and nothing. Not even a click. Hooked it up to a company truck and it fired right up and ran fine. Drove home shut off and then started it a little later and it started fine. Then this morning it wouldn't start. I hooked up the jump pack and still nothing. I drove my fusion to work and when I got home I went out and it fired right up like nothing happened. Does the work sometimes not work other times sound like the solenoid on the firewall? 2000 4x4 4.6 auto 253k miles
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I have a 2004 f150 fx4. Drove it home and parked it. Next morning wouldn't turn over. When trying to start the starter relay clicks but no noise from starter. Battery light and wrench light are on. I thought maybe battery was low but when I hooked up charger gauge showed good battery. What do I do next? Also there is no "theft" light...at all not even when I first turn key on.
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Let me start by saying the car is the 2002 ford focus and has a remote starter keyless entry and alarm that has been in stalled years ago so the one day I'm trying to go inside my car and the unlock button on the key fob doesn't work so I put the key in the door and open it all the doors unlock.
I ignored it when I'm leaving the car I lock it with the key fob it chrips then my son rushes outside and opens the door. That's when I noticed the door didn't lock then I try the door switch to lock and unlock the doors but nothing happens I tried the passenger switch nothing
Symptoms : Both driver and passenger door lock switches are not working If I hit the unlock button twice on the key fob all the doors unlock...
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Recently I was driving on the highway, about 70 miles into my trip, when all of a sudden my cruise control kicked out and the rpms went high and then I lost acceleration. I pulled over to the berm and tried to take off. Problem is I could not get the car past 30mph because the accelerator pedal could. not be pushed down more than an inch or two no matter how hard I pushed. What could be wrong???
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Almost every time I start my 2001 Ford Focus, it won't start. The starter functions but the engine won't start. I have to pump it, give it gas, and once it starts, it's perfectly fine, no stalling, no problems after that. That is until I turn the engine off. When I go to start it again, say after doing an errand or two, it may or may not happen again throughout the day, the problem only occurring when I attempt to start it.
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When I turn on my air conditioner it just blows air, not cold air just air. If I turn it to heat it also just blows air, not warm air, just air. The fan settings all work fine but the air coming out never changes temperature. By the way, If I bypass the compressor clutch relay with a paper clip, the AC will kick in. I refilled the coolant in the AC system too but it won't engage without bypassing the relay. Plus, the heater is not "kicking in" either. I did recently install a new wiper motor but I am not sure if that may have contributed to the air issue that is happening now.
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I have a 2000 Ford F150 lariat with the 5.4 liter engine. At least once or twice a day, its like the starter hits a bad spot and will spin but not engage the flywheel. It has a new starter, battery, and solenoid. What this might be?
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Any pic or wiring diagram of the starter relay that is mounted to the fender. I'm trying to start the truck finally but it's just cranking and I think I might have mixed up the wiring. Is there supposed to be a constant hot at the glow plug relay when the ignition is off?
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Upon trying to start my 2003 f250, it keeps blowing the 15A "Transmission Range Sensor then to Starter Relay Coil" fuse. Initially the truck would still start if i did not use the aftermarket Viper keyless start. however, now it doesn't start at all and keeps blowing fuses. I contacted the guy that installed the alarm thinking it might be something on his end. He walked me through reconnecting the factory starter wires which would isolate the issue if it was something on his end. it's still blowing fuses. battery terminals are good and clean.
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