Ford - Focus :: Dash Light For ABS Flash Off And On Accompanied By A Clicking Sound
Nov 13, 2012
I have a 2004 Ford Focus that has always run like a champ; (71,000) miles. Two years ago it started having some really strange "issues." The car's dash light for the ABS would start to flash off and on, accompanied by a clicking sound whenever it flashed. The brakes are always fine. Next, though, the car starts kicking and "bucking" as though it wanted to die. Whenever I pulled off the road, turned off the car and turned it back on, everything was fine. This went on for weeks but it was sporadic in nature; and naturally it didn't do anything for my mechanic even when I left it there.
I finally took it to the Ford dealer who charged me $800 for a new alternator belt, but it came with no guarantee - they said they frankly didn't know whether it would work or not. Turns out it did, for a couple of years; but it has just now started doing it again. I can find nothing that I'm doing or not doing determines whether this happens or not. Now I've got the same scarey problem all over again, and every couple of years for a new alternator belt, I might as well give it up and sell. I'm getting so tired of hearing "I don't know what's wrong". Oh, by the way, the "check engine" light never goes on.
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I have an 05 maxima which no longer wants to start. I've tried jumping it but that's no dice. When I put the key in the battery and brake light come on and when I try to start it there's a clicking sound from the passenger side and before the lights on the dash would flash but it has just been doing the clicking sound lately. Any guesses on what the problem may be?
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Recently I installed a GTA bluetooth system (about 4 months ago) and recently there is a squeaking noise coming from the passenger side. It almost sounds like an AC compressor issue (had the same problem with my F-250) but there is also an accompanying "gurgling" sound as well. AC problems with the Gen 2 after 160,000 miles?
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I need to locate an unwanted sound from my engine compartment. I am driving a Ford Focus 1.6 petrol engine/zetec (2000), mileage:166 000 km. It's best described as a clicking or ticking sound which is quite distinct. The sound seems to follow the "speed" of the engine.
Most likely the sound is coming from the drivebelt, and maybe from one of the tensioners which the belt is running on.
It's a visible wobble on one of the wheels but I am not sure if this is the case. It does not seem like the sound is originating from the engine itself but I am not 100% sure.
I attached a sound .wav file : ford.wav 1.03MB
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I had a 2008 focus that had the parking lights flash when you lock and unlock the car with the key fob just wondering if the windstar does the same and if so how do you enable it as if you push the lock button 2 times the horn beeps and that is the only time i know the van recognizes the lock command i know that dodge's you push the lock button for 4 seconds but not more that 10 seconds then push the panic button but i didn't see anything in the manual unless i totally missed it.
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My new 2013 Ford Focus is a making a very, very strange noise every time I open the door. The Ford dealer said it's normal for the type of trans and handed me the following statement: " ....vehicles equipped with the Powershift DPS6 transmission may experience a clicking noise from the transmission after the doors are unlocked, opened and prior to the engine starting, for up to 3 min.
The noise is the shift motors waking up and preparing for startup. Attempts to eliminate the noise should not be made." To make it easier to understand the situation, the following link from a YouTube video explains EXACTLY what is occurring: [URL] .....
Hearing such a ridiculous sound/concept about waking up a transmission. Note, this noise even happens when you open the passenger door. Why does the transmission need to be waked up for someone getting in the passenger side. The car cannot be driven from here.
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Been driving the treg for a month now and liking it , getting ready for its first (for us) trip to Tahoe on Thursday. This evening while coming home there was a slight clicking/rustling sound from behind the dash then a message comes on the screen "put drive lever into the position P" or something very similar. I stopped the car, re-started it, tried it in all drives, and the message kept coming on for a few seconds then disappearing. What this means?
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I got to work this morning and had about 3.5 miles left with the EV. Tried to go home and nothing works. I could not open the door. I thought it was my remote battery so I Changed the battery and still nothing works. I get the Orange caution light on the dash and a clicking sound from the engine area . No lights come on. Nothing.
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I bought my 2003 F-150 XL (4.2L V6, 2WD, had 165k miles when purchased, 170k now, battery is a Napa brand manufactured in April 2012) in June 2012. A few weeks after I got it, I started having some weird issues. The check engine light came on and I went and had the codes read at Advance Auto. They were P0171 and P0174, lean bank one and lean bank two. The vacuum leak causing these codes isn't the issue I'm dealing with, it is the electrical problem.
The truck will occasionally flash every light on the dash (service engine soon, low fuel, oil, coolant temperature, seat belt, door ajar, and a couple others if I remember correctly) when I turn the key to power on the electronics. The first time I turn the key all the way to crank the truck up, it cranks fine, starts up, and dies within 3-4 seconds. The second time, it does the same thing. Third time, it just cranks and cranks, but will not start. After cranking and not starting a few times, the truck basically just clicks because the battery is run down.
This problem has happened randomly since June. It might be six weeks, one week, or only a few days between occurrences. The last two times it did it, I took the battery out of the truck, put it on a 6 amp charger overnight (about 8 hours), put it back in the truck, and it still wouldn't start, lights still flashing, etc. I gave it about 2-3 hours and both times the truck would start strongly and without incident, and the service engine soon light was off.
It rained here a LOT this summer, so I figured it might have something to do with driving through standing water at various speeds. The problem seems loosely associated with rainy weather (it rained last Saturday and I had to drive approximately 10-12 miles in it), but now it has started something new.
Yesterday afternoon, I tried to start the truck and it did the above described problem. I took the battery off and put it on a 10 amp charger for about six hours yesterday and left it disconnected overnight. Reconnected it this morning, gave it a couple of hours, still nothing. I remembered one time a while back that hitting the odometer reset button made the dash lights stop flashing. I held down the reset button and everything stayed lit up, but stopped flashing. Turned the key with the reset button held down and the truck started right up, but the dash kept flashing.
Turned it off, tried starting it without holding down the odometer reset, would crank, but not start. Tried starting it while holding down the odometer reset again, started right up. When I turned it off and tried it a third time, it just cranked for about six seconds before I gave up. This time, the oil, coolant temperature, battery, and service engine soon lights stayed lit (not flashing, they were solid) and the truck refused to start anymore.
Before it did the odometer reset BS I thought maybe I could figure it out because while it was a ghost of a problem that randomly came and went, it was always the same issue. Now I'm COMPLETELY lost.
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This past Saturday afternoon I'm out driving on the highway when the temperature gauge on dash maxes-out and the overheat warning light comes on. I get off at the next exit and stop at the nearest repair shop. (Which happened to be not too far from the exit.) During these moments of driving the car is not behaving as if it were overheating. No steam/vapor coming from the engine, it's performing okay, A/C runs cold, running heater on full-blast seems to do nothing to ease the gauge and the temperature in the engine bay feels about "normal."
So, since this is a Saturday at almost 5PM most of the repair shops are closing (it's a known fact cars don't break down past 5 o'clock on Saturdays.) So they say the'll look at it on Sunday.
I get a call on Sunday and I'm told that as near as they can tell the car is not overheating, the overheat light or check-engine lights weren't coming on and the car is behaving normally. The thermostat is "gunked up" and they recommend new coolant or a coolant flush." I just opt for new coolant, forgoing the flush, as I didn't really have the funds for it, an additional $100 or so. They say there are no codes in the system.
They do it and end up having to keep the car overnight so that the... air bubbles will work out of it? (?!)
I pick it up this past Monday evening and on the drive home the temp-gauge does as it was doing when this process began. It started creeping "hotter and hotter" meanwhile the car is behaving otherwise fine. (No overheat light this time.) Get home, open the hood, no vapor, no excess heat. Nothing.
They spend quite a bit of time running it, hooking it up to a diagnostic machine, etc. While the temp-gauge is sort of "floating around" between normal and "hot" it doesn't reach an "overheat" and the diagnostic machine registers normal temperatures. This time they find a code in the system, though the check-engine light has never come on. They recommend, again, the coolant flush so I go ahead and do it (they give me a discount), and drive the car home, again the temp-gauge "floats" around the dial, never quite getting to "overheating."
I drive to work just fine Thursday (today) morning with no real trouble with the gauge. (Though, FWIW, I had to tap on the dash to get the dash-light on that side of the console to come on.) This brings us to Thursday afternoon.
I make a couple of errands and as I'm stopped at a pharmacy drive-thru the temp-gauge is "floating." Driving home on the highway it reaches "overheating", turning the light on (again, car is not behaving in an overheating manner. A/C still cold, running heat doesn't ease gauge, no vapor from engine compartment.) When I pull in my parking spot the A/C and the car starts to "stall" some and NOW the check-engine light comes on. I shut the car off and I see vapors coming from under the hood.
I open the hood and the engine is covered in the anti-freeze/coolant and the coolant reservoir is empty. The various hoses and such that are clipped on to parts of the front engine cowling are loose (the plastic screw/"snaps" came out of their holes) and pushing on the upper-radiator some and it seems awfully loose. (Like the upper mounts aren't properly seated or something.)
Call the shop ask them what they are doing to me, they say they'll have another look at it and pay for the tow to get the car back to their shop. Awaiting word on what is going on, likely sometime tomorrow.
All of this strikes me as very, very odd and all seems to pile up quickly from taking it to this shop. With a replaced thermostat and flushed coolant I have a hard time understanding how the engine could genuinely overheat. All of the hoses and such seemed fine, and running the engine for a while at the shop the other day generated no problems to the techs working on the car. Yet, they're the only ones who have messed with it. Assumptions on their part Tuesday afternoon were something to do with the water pump (replaced at 100,000 miles with timing belt. Car is now at 145,000 miles.) Or a faulty temperature sensor (or what passes for it on the car) sending false readings to the gauge.
Car is a 2000 Ford Focus ZTS with a 4-Cyl, 16V, 2.0 Liter engine. It has 145,000 miles on it, timing belt and water-pump were replaced at 100,000 miles have had regular oil-changes on (more or less) every 5,000 miles or so. I will admit to not getting coolant changes/flushes as often as one should but the car never really had an overheating issues or problems starting in the winter.
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I have a '84 Bronco and before I redid all the ignition wiring when I turned off the key the engine would stay running for about 6 seconds and then turn off. Now when I turn off the key and turn off a switch about 6-8 seconds later I here a click sound that comes from under and about center of the dash. And sometimes it clicks on and off in rapid secession kind of like when you flip a light switch on and off quickly. Some days it does it and some days it don't.
If I leave the battery hooked up then it drains the battery overnight or within a day, and sometimes its just fine. So to be safe I unhook the battery whenever its not being driven or started periodically. I am wondering what is in the center of the dash that needs power and that controls the ignition stuff?
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I have a 08 F150 king ranch and have a couple of issues. There is a strange sound coming from the dash behind the gauges it sounds like a computer hard drive clicking and the heater seems to be stuck on will not even blow outside fresh air.
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Clicking sound behind the dashboard? it happens every once in a while and it's a little disconcerting. I can't tell if it's electrical or just loose parts clicking around.
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I have a 2003 Ford F450 super duty xl. At first there was a loud clicking sound coming from under my dash. I charged the battery up and the sound went away but the truck will fire up but not turn over and start. I thought maybe it could be the relays but the clicking sound quit.
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Recently purchased a used 2006 Chevy cobalt, seems like an alright car so far. But lately when I turn on the car and also sometimes when I switch the heat on there is a clicking sound behind the dash on the passengers side that lasts less then 10 seconds. Is it safe to drive on? Or am I causing some great internal damage by just living with the noise instead of repairing it asap (bc tight on cash rn)?
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I have a 2001 F250 SD 4x4 5.4L . I purchased the truck used with about 120,000 miles on it. It runs great despite averaging about 10.8 mpg. Shortly after I got the truck, I noticed what I thought was an intermittent transmission issue when the trans would shift. I would get a "flare" that lasted briefly as if the trans was slipping, but it was accompanied by a sound that I'm not sure how to describe, but it was somewhat like hitting a rev limiter. It only happened when the transmission shifted. The fluid was clean and did not smell burnt. I assumed it was a misfire issue, even though it did not happen often, and seemed to only happen at shift points. I changed all of the plugs and all of the coil packs. It still does the exact same thing. Sometimes it only does it once every couple of days, and other times it may do it 3 or 4 times a day.
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My 2003 F-250 5.4l gas started making a recurring clicking sound from under the dash on the left side. It started last summer and would repeat numerous times each time I had the truck out. It's the kind of sound the turn signal makes. Always 5 clicks. It stopped happening when the weather got cold here in Canada, but started again this week (maybe because of the the warm weather we're having). How do I troubleshoot what the issue is? If the headlights are off it also flashes the lights in the instrument cluster five times.
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The sound comes from under the dash. recently the blinkers stopped working all together so I tracked down the problem to the hazard light switch and replaced that and the blinkers are working now. However, the clicking sound remains and seems to happen more just after using the turn signal but the sound happens randomly as well.
I'm thinking it might be the turn signal assembly located on the steering column. So, I was thinking of replacing the unit (it has both signal lever and wiper/wash lever) .
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My 2010 prius is making a strange sound, and has been since day one.
It makes a "Clicking" sound sometimes that can be heard inside the cabin and sounds like it is coming from the center dash. It is definitely NOT a squeaky dash or door panel or anything like that. It is definitely electrical in nature. It almost sounds like a very fast clicking relay or maybe another electrical component. It is fairly high pitched (not like the inverter whine, though) and definitely clicking (maybe buzzing), not constant. It sort of sounds like a cricket. I am working on adding some audio/video to this post, should have some up today.
Here are some things I have noticed about the noise:
1. Only happens when gas pedal is depressed, not when braking or coasting.
2. When the display is in "Eco" it happens loudest and consistently when the bar is 3/4 of the way full, but it can happen (although the clicking is slower and less consistent) at 1/2 or just before the power section of the bar.
3. The car must be "warmed up" i.e. doesn't happen right away, car must be driven for 10-15 min if engine is cool.
4. Seems to be happening more/more quickly after starting the car in the hotter weather (I purchased my car in Feb.)
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I am the original owner of a 2008 Prius, and am familiar with the various noises that the car likes to make. However, a new clicking noise has started recently, and need to identify the source/cause, so I can (hopefully) repair it myself, or have it repaired cost effectively.
I have attached a pic of what I think is the source of the noise.
This pic is looking upwards under the dash, above the brake pedal. In the center of the pic is a white thingamajig. This thing is attached to a motor on the right side (to the right of what I think is a yellow bearing or washer), and the other end is attached to a darker gray arm. When the climate control makes an adjustment, the motor turns, the white plastic piece turns, and the arm moves. What appears to happen is that sometimes, the motor continues to operate when it shouldn't, and these plastic pieces all kind of move around, clicking.
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I have a 97 f150 lariat 4.6L 150,000+ miles, and I am getting a lot of electrical things going wrong, been looking, and found sum kind of electric module could be the issue, except the problem are a bit dif then the ones listed. I am just wondering if it could be my issue. my problems are, 4x4 and low range light come on and off with clicking coming from under dash, daytime lights work here and there, air bag light flashes.
Then this morn my wife went to leave for work and there was a air leak hissing sound coming from the brake pedal area and that was b4 she started the truck, then she said when she got there that the heater stayed on after she shut it off and there was a beeping sound coming from the glove box. I am a general diy mechanic and dont know electrical very well, and i am at a loss.
My steering wheel seems like it is bout to fall off, and when making turns it seems to bind and not wanna turn, but when i try to pull on it, it seems sturdy but it will kinda flop if i go side to side or up and down with it.
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