Ford - Focus :: 2011 - Is It Necessary To Do Early Oil Change On New Car
Feb 17, 2012
I recently purchased a 2012 Focus, and am at 1,000 miles on the odometer. I have heard that it's a good idea to get 1 "early" oil change at 1000 miles (I have also heard 500 and 1500 miles) because of the engine being broken in or something, and I was wondering if that was still necessary with new cars, or if it is just a holdover from when machining was less precise and I can just go right to the normal maintenance schedule from the get-go.
There is nothing in the owner's manual about an early oil change, but I thought I should get a 2nd opinion.
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I'm a very new Prius 2010 owner (as of December 2010) and I very stupidly drove my car in B for about 70 miles down the interstate. I wasn't paying attention, and had only had the car for a week, and I shifted into B instead of Drive and didn't realize it until about 70 miles down the interstate. I had been driving up to 75 mph during that time.
My dealer has the oil change sticker listed as needing changed at the next 5K miles, but my oil service display is already showing service needed, some 3K miles before their estimated 5K mark. Is this related to the horrible B driving that I did in December? I would love to just reset the oil change display and keep driving, but I did some sort of damage or extreme wear and tear with the B driving.
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When I first start out driving the car, and come to a stop, in drive, the car begins to run rough. I can hear and feel the vibration, it's very noticeable. I put it in neutral and it stops. As I load the engine with AC or use the electric windows it seems to gets worse. Then after driving for about 5-7 miles, it quits. Primarily in cold weather, since it started 4 months ago. I do allow the car to warm up before driving.I'm still under warranty, and have been to the dealer 3 times. Of course, it doesn't happen when I go to see the dealer. But they did re-tighten the motor mounts. I don't think it worked.
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After I took my Ford Focus 2011 to the dealership for a free oil change I noticed a subtle, low hum coming from the car when I hit speeds past 40mph. At first it sounded like the engine of a louder car driving near me so it took me a couple days to realize that it was actually my car making the noise. I intended to bring the car right back to the dealership to complain about this but I kept getting preoccupied with my studies for my summer courses. It's been roughly 3 weeks now and the low hum has gotten a lot louder now and can be heard over music.
The noise begins when I approach 40mph. The noise is probably at its loudest at speeds of 40mph-70mph. The noise is made even when I am not stepping on the accelerator or using the breaks. I haven't tried putting the car in neutral at those speeds. What might be causing that noise? Although I don't really trust the dealership since my car seems to manifest a new problem after each visit.
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2011 Focus 2.0L L4 engine, manual transmission, 70K miles - when up-shifting gears, the throttle remains high, dropping v-e-r-y slowly instead of dropping rapidly when the throttle is released. It is the same when not moving, when the throttle is run up to steady RPM's, then the pedal is released, the RPM's drop slowly. This has started recently, at first I thought it was just 'operator error', and that our shifting skills were deteriorating with age (ours, not the car), but testing has proven the fault lies with the vehicle. I researched sticking throttle issues, and thought I had located the problem as a bad throttle body assembly. Changed it out with a new one, went thru the computer reset procedure,and the problem still exists. No error codes are showing, but the little yellow wrench light is lit on the dash (resets each startup. Vehicle drives fine otherwise, no loss of power, etc.
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When i take off in morning truck will change from low to 2nd and hesitate for a second and then go on ok. was sitting at light the other day an went to take off an mashed dn on fuel pedal an it just sit there an then took off, dont no whats going on.:-
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I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home.
All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles.
Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
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Changing the front diff fluid on truck. I was looking at mine today and it looks like the top bolts will be difficult to reach.
I also tried to suck the fluid out of the fill hole but couldn't really fit a tube into the differential.
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Got the single controls with my 2011. How hard is it to change to dual controls?
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I have a 2011 Escape Limited 3.0l V6 AWD. Did a spark plug change at 115k miles for the first time per dealership recommendation. Got new plugs from dealership.
Was pretty cut and dry to replace. Did not check gap on plugs as was told they are not adjustable per dealership. Put pea sized amount of dialectric grease in the COPs and then fitted the plugs into several times with a little spin to coat evenly. Installed plugs to 11 ft.lbs. and reassembled all components without issue. Installed them one at a time so as to not mix up the coils.
I did break the 90-degree nylon quick disconnect for the fuel line that connects to the fuel supply manifold and had to purchase a new hose assembly. Reinstalled without issue.
Went to start up and engine cranks (hiccup sound) but does not turn over. The sound is weak and not a throaty crank like an engine should give. Check engine light flashes on dash and issues a frequent tone also.
Wondering what the issue is? Are they the wrong plugs? Improperly gapped? Possible the fuel line did not pressurize and there is no fuel getting to the plugs for ignition? Kind of stumped as it was a pretty cut-and-dry replacement (if such a thing is possible).
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my 2000 focus se, 2.0L SPI, with 82k began to recently run rough at idle then progressed to stalling at longer lengths of idle. The condition starts once the engine warms after 2-5 minutes. I 1st tried gas treatment. I replaced the ignition coil as suggested in the other threads, but it has not improved the problem. I had the fuel pump recall-replaced 2 years ago. I would guess that a bad fuel pump would exhibit loss of power at all engine speeds? Before I proceed to replace plug wires and plugs.
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Truck has just over 5000 miles on it. Had the tires road forced, no luck! Took it to the dealer ford said replace the tires 2 at a time (r then f), picked it up yesterday no better and said that ford wants to put a new driveshaft in it!
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I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home. All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles. Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
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Ive had my 2011 for 20 months. I have 7,300 miles. I know the manual states changing around 22k but do you think time is a factor as well? I wont hit 22k for two years. Truck will be 3.5 yrs old. Should I just change them at 10k and see how they look? Don't want to waste the money either if its unnecessary. I use it 50/50 towing/unloaded.
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For those of you struggling like I was a few minutes ago... Here is a procedure that worked for me.
1. Key ON.
2. Select OK to get rid of OIL CHANGE REQUIRED message.
3. Scroll down to SETTINGS and push OK.
4. Scroll down to VEHICLE and push OK.
5. Scroll down to OIL LIFE RESET and push OK.
6. Scroll to any % other than what you want and push OK.
7. Scroll to what % you want and push OK.
8. Key OFF.
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Trying to stay up on my maintenance on my '11 f-350 diesel. It just turned 59k. I can only find Ford's recommended service interval for changing the fluid in the transfer case listed in the "Special Operating Conditions" section of my Scheduled Maintenance Guide for towing, delivery, off-road and dusty conditions at 60,000 miles. I tow some, but maybe 20% of the time, I end up driving a lot of stop and go though.
So I found this nice how to online "Guzzle's Transfer Case Fluid Change" - it's for a 02 heavy duty, is it about the same on the newer diesel trucks?
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I just bought a 2011 F250 Super Duty 6.2L and the manual A/C buttons were stuck on Max A/C and wouldn't change. I fiddled with every switch on the dash thinking it might be a stuck switch and eventually all the buttons started working. This truck has SYNC, which works fine, and I can't find anything else wrong with the truck.
When the buttons are lit, it blows good and cold, in A/C and Max A/C. The problem I'm having now is that they won't light up at all. Visual inspection shows nothing obvious under the hood, and it has a charge of freon. I drove and it id working just fine, but stuck on the Max setting. I'm thinking electrical gremlins, like stuck switch or a relay...
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I am having a transmission problem. I have a 76 F100 with a 300 and a c4 tranny. When I take off it seems to be shifting out way to early. It goes in to 2nd gear at about 10mph and 3rd between 20-25mph. I do have a kickdown linkage hooked up but I have not messed with any adjustments. The is a vacuum line that runs to the rear of the transmission. Also sometimes when shifting in to 3rd it seems to go in to neutral before going in to gear.
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I am going to look at a 92 Explorer soon and the owner says the transmission is shifting early.... I'm not exactly sure what they mean by it and I haven't gone and test drove it myself yet, I'm just trying to get opinions on what to look for and hoping it doesn't mean the end soon to come for this tranny. I was thinking maybe the vac. modulator could be the issue but I don't really know much about these Explorer's, as I've only owned one for about 2 months. It's a 92 4WD.
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I have a 2000 F-150 that shifts way too early. By the time I hit 30mph it is in overdrive. Does not slip and has firm but early shifts. I am thinking the speed sensor...
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I have a 77 F250 4X4, 400, C6. Upshifts and downshifts are working normally, except under light load and minimal throttle the tranny downshifts to 2nd at any speed under 40 mph. I've never had an automatic do this before. I checked the kickdown linkage is pulled up so it's doesn't seem to be in kickdown position always, no vacuum leaks to the modulator. I confess to be more of a manual trans guy so my knowledge is autos is limited.
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