Ford - Focus :: 2010 - Rhythmic Hiss Coming From Dash When AC On And Does Not Cool The Air
Jul 10, 2016
Car is approaching 100,000 miles. While driving today I noticed a rhythmic hiss coming from the dash when the AC ran. No temperature difference between AC and vent after a little while. Is there anything I can look for before I take it into the shop? I will take it in and have them put die in to find potential leak before we start with the more expensive repairs, but would like to save where I can.
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I just got a new 2014 camry LE. Overall it is what it is and I am very happy with it. However one thing that is got me annoyed is that there is a hiss coming from ALL speakers. Even if the radio is off the hiss is there. Basically after some experimentation, any time the head unit is completely booted up the hiss is coming from the speakers.
To make sure it is not just my car, I checked out a few more LE from the dealer and they all hiss from the speakers when the head unit is on.
Havn't had a chance to get off work to go to the dealer yet but a buddy at work tells me his older Bimmer had a similar issue. For him, it turned out to be the amp was set to max so that max volume would be achieved. For him he was able to adjust it.
Do the Camry's have a similar adjustability? I'm willing to sacrifice sound level for no hiss.
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I have a 2004 Eddie Bauer Expedition. We noticed a few weeks ago that the A/C was not cooling like it used to, and now it does not cool at all. No cold air from either the front vents or the rear system.
Tonight it is 65 degrees ambient and the clutch is cycling about every 8 seconds. Every time it cycles I hear a hissing/rushing water sound under the passenger-side dashboard.
Is there's anything that I can check myself, or if I need to take it to a mechanic. I can do basic part replacement but am not qualified enough to take apart a charged system.
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2008 2wd 4.6L 98K miles F150 for the past few weeks has been humming with a rhythmic vibration which feels like it is coming from driver's side front wheel. It doesn't do it constantly, nor at all speeds. Once I hit about 25mph, you can start to hear a humming. At 35, slight vibration. Between 50-60, heavier vibration. Sometimes at 65+, it subsides quite a bit. Both front rotor assemblies are newer, and I put in a brand new left because I thought it was a bad bearing.
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Last week I noticed a slight "whomping" noise in my 2010 Ranger. Not a knock, not a ping, nothing that sounds metallic. Just a rhythmic whomping sound that only shows after the engine and tranny are hot.
It only does it in Drive or Reverse; and not in Park or Neutral. The tech at the dealership (30k on the vehicle) says he thinks it is a bearing in the torque converter.
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I recently bought a 2007 Passat 3.6 and am now noticing an odd sound from the motor. When I am at parking lot speed, just barely giving it gas (1000 RPM or so) I can hear a dull, almost rhythmic knock coming from the motor. It's similar to an exhaust "lub-dub" sound, but not. I brought it to the dealer under it's bumper to bumper warranty and they told me that it is a normal sound for the vehicle "in this configuration". Is this really normal?? I'm worried that it isn't, and just about the time I'm out of warranty it'll be a big deal. The car has 32K on it and the engine has 20K. Yep...it blew and was completely replaced at 11K.
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My 2010 F-150 has a vibrating noise that seems to be coming from within the dash. The noise starts around 40mph to 50mph. It stops if I let off the gas or I accelerate. I cannot figure out where or what is causing this.
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Very annoying noise I have on the rear left wheel of my 2001 Hyundai accent. About a year ago I noticed a rhythmic noise coming from the rear left wheel of my car. I figured the car had done around 130K kms and was probably needing new bearing assemblies. This didn't fix the noise. So I thought maybe it was the struts or the wheels. Not either of those.. changed the struts and got the wheels balanced.
I changed the rear brakes shoes.. didn't work. So a few months went by and I figured I would try and get the drums machined. So I got them skimmed slightly but this did nothing. Finally I decided to that maybe the bearing was dodgy so I put a new on... and you guessed it.. The noise is still there.
The noise is always present whether I am braking or not. As I speed up the noise is more prevalent. Basically the noise is related to the rotation of the wheel. My next plan of attack is to put new brake shoes on with new brake drums. I don't know what else I can try.
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I have a 2002 Suburban 1500, 4wd, 5.7, auto trans. 214,000 miles. Transmission had a complete rebuild in August 2015. Last few days when driving slowly (5 mph) there is a rhythmic clicking or ticking noise coming from the center of the vehicle, best I can tell with my limited hearing. Noise is variable with car speed. With rear axle on jack stands in gear and idling, and my kubota backed up to it for safety ,sound is still there. All U joints appear to be fine, they are tight and there is no sign of fresh rust at the bearing caps. All axle boots are fine, no holes or anything else. I originally thought front hub assembly but the jack stand test rules that out. Not sure what the heck it could be.
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Yesterday night I bought my first Prius--a brand new 2015 C2. All seemed perfectly fine till I was driving home from work this evening. I had the passenger window down and noticed a rhythmic clicking and clattering coming from that side anytime I drove past something to echo it back. This was going at about 25 mph in a residential area. It almost sounded like when you have some gravel stuck in the tire, except no gravel and it sounded more mechanical. It was very noticeable. No sound at all coming from the driver's side open window. I took it back out for a couple more drives to confirm that the sound was continuing.
When I drove it off the lot yesterday it had 40 miles on it--the dealer said someone had likely taken it home to show a family member, then brought it back. I truly don't remember hearing a sound like this when I test drove it, but the conditions were very different (other people in the car, window rolled up). I didn't notice this sound this morning, either.
The thing that is extra concerning to me is that on the way home tonight there was some roadwork where the pavement had been stripped from a section, then a large bump where the regular pavement resumed. I slowed down as much as traffic around me but still hit the bump much harder than I would have liked, especially for my brand new car. It was after that that I first noticed the rattling, a little ways down the road.
The car is making so many new-to-me sounds that I truly have no idea if this is just a normal sound or if I should be concerned. The tires look ok, I don't see anything obviously wrong when I look under the car.
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I have a 2004 Ford Focus that has always run like a champ; (71,000) miles. Two years ago it started having some really strange "issues." The car's dash light for the ABS would start to flash off and on, accompanied by a clicking sound whenever it flashed. The brakes are always fine. Next, though, the car starts kicking and "bucking" as though it wanted to die. Whenever I pulled off the road, turned off the car and turned it back on, everything was fine. This went on for weeks but it was sporadic in nature; and naturally it didn't do anything for my mechanic even when I left it there.
I finally took it to the Ford dealer who charged me $800 for a new alternator belt, but it came with no guarantee - they said they frankly didn't know whether it would work or not. Turns out it did, for a couple of years; but it has just now started doing it again. I can find nothing that I'm doing or not doing determines whether this happens or not. Now I've got the same scarey problem all over again, and every couple of years for a new alternator belt, I might as well give it up and sell. I'm getting so tired of hearing "I don't know what's wrong". Oh, by the way, the "check engine" light never goes on.
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I've been hearing a rhythmic, metallic ringy grinding noise coming from the driver side front end of the car that seems to be in time with wheel rotation. It happens between 5 and 40mph, worsens while the steering wheel is turned even the slightest to the right, goes away completely during left turns, reduces and becomes intermittent above 45mph, and between 0 and 5mph, as I turn the wheel to the right from any position, I hear squeaking. I recently had the front control arm, ball joints and struts replaced. It has 140k miles. What could it be?
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When I test drove this 2004 Ranger Edge 4.0 I purchased about three weeks ago it had mucho AC cooling. So much so I had to turn it way down.
Today, when I could have used it, the AC has gone south. There is very moderate cool air coming out even on the turbo setting. Was actually better with the AC off and the windows open when the truck was on the road.
I got a sick feeling thinking maybe the dealer topped off the coolant knowing it had a leak but I have a push-on plastic coolant gauge and it is reading "filled" into that blue area about 25% of the way with the truck at idle and the AC on. The compressor is cycling on and off... mostly off, though. Not sure if that is normal or ??
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This past Saturday afternoon I'm out driving on the highway when the temperature gauge on dash maxes-out and the overheat warning light comes on. I get off at the next exit and stop at the nearest repair shop. (Which happened to be not too far from the exit.) During these moments of driving the car is not behaving as if it were overheating. No steam/vapor coming from the engine, it's performing okay, A/C runs cold, running heater on full-blast seems to do nothing to ease the gauge and the temperature in the engine bay feels about "normal."
So, since this is a Saturday at almost 5PM most of the repair shops are closing (it's a known fact cars don't break down past 5 o'clock on Saturdays.) So they say the'll look at it on Sunday.
I get a call on Sunday and I'm told that as near as they can tell the car is not overheating, the overheat light or check-engine lights weren't coming on and the car is behaving normally. The thermostat is "gunked up" and they recommend new coolant or a coolant flush." I just opt for new coolant, forgoing the flush, as I didn't really have the funds for it, an additional $100 or so. They say there are no codes in the system.
They do it and end up having to keep the car overnight so that the... air bubbles will work out of it? (?!)
I pick it up this past Monday evening and on the drive home the temp-gauge does as it was doing when this process began. It started creeping "hotter and hotter" meanwhile the car is behaving otherwise fine. (No overheat light this time.) Get home, open the hood, no vapor, no excess heat. Nothing.
They spend quite a bit of time running it, hooking it up to a diagnostic machine, etc. While the temp-gauge is sort of "floating around" between normal and "hot" it doesn't reach an "overheat" and the diagnostic machine registers normal temperatures. This time they find a code in the system, though the check-engine light has never come on. They recommend, again, the coolant flush so I go ahead and do it (they give me a discount), and drive the car home, again the temp-gauge "floats" around the dial, never quite getting to "overheating."
I drive to work just fine Thursday (today) morning with no real trouble with the gauge. (Though, FWIW, I had to tap on the dash to get the dash-light on that side of the console to come on.) This brings us to Thursday afternoon.
I make a couple of errands and as I'm stopped at a pharmacy drive-thru the temp-gauge is "floating." Driving home on the highway it reaches "overheating", turning the light on (again, car is not behaving in an overheating manner. A/C still cold, running heat doesn't ease gauge, no vapor from engine compartment.) When I pull in my parking spot the A/C and the car starts to "stall" some and NOW the check-engine light comes on. I shut the car off and I see vapors coming from under the hood.
I open the hood and the engine is covered in the anti-freeze/coolant and the coolant reservoir is empty. The various hoses and such that are clipped on to parts of the front engine cowling are loose (the plastic screw/"snaps" came out of their holes) and pushing on the upper-radiator some and it seems awfully loose. (Like the upper mounts aren't properly seated or something.)
Call the shop ask them what they are doing to me, they say they'll have another look at it and pay for the tow to get the car back to their shop. Awaiting word on what is going on, likely sometime tomorrow.
All of this strikes me as very, very odd and all seems to pile up quickly from taking it to this shop. With a replaced thermostat and flushed coolant I have a hard time understanding how the engine could genuinely overheat. All of the hoses and such seemed fine, and running the engine for a while at the shop the other day generated no problems to the techs working on the car. Yet, they're the only ones who have messed with it. Assumptions on their part Tuesday afternoon were something to do with the water pump (replaced at 100,000 miles with timing belt. Car is now at 145,000 miles.) Or a faulty temperature sensor (or what passes for it on the car) sending false readings to the gauge.
Car is a 2000 Ford Focus ZTS with a 4-Cyl, 16V, 2.0 Liter engine. It has 145,000 miles on it, timing belt and water-pump were replaced at 100,000 miles have had regular oil-changes on (more or less) every 5,000 miles or so. I will admit to not getting coolant changes/flushes as often as one should but the car never really had an overheating issues or problems starting in the winter.
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Ford Focus 2004 manual 150K miles. Most days the car runs fine. Other days it will start and run until it warms up, then stumbles or hesitates at speed. When this happens the headlights and dash lights are also flickering. Sometimes i hear a clicking sound behind dash, left side. I have the sure cure: turn the heater fan to high. This works every time. When the engine is hesitating, i turn the fan to 4-high, the engine smooths out. Turn the fan down, engine again hesitates. Hesitates at 3, worse at 2, worst at 1. It seems to need the extra load.
But after few minutes of high heater fan, the alternator light comes on. I flick the heater switch down, endure the hesitation for a few seconds, the alternator light goes out, engine still hesitating, flick the fan to high, engine smooths out. A few months ago i could get it to fun smoothly with the fan on 3, didn't need 4-high. Now seems to need 4.On the days when it is always running smoothly, the heater fan can be on any speed, the alternator light does not come on.
Next few days or even weeks the engine will run smoothly, no hesitation, with the fan on or off or any setting.
The car has been to three shops in past year, one of them a major Ford dealer, who kept it two weeks. The problem has been diagnosed as battery (replaced), Battery connections (checked), plugs (replaced), fuel pump controller (replaced), fuel pump (replaced - ouch!), alternator (replaced twice - ouch twice), grounds (checked). Every time they "fix" something the car runs ok for a week or so.OBD shows P2004 (intake manifold runner stuck) but all agree it can't be the problem.
There have been a few times when i flicked the heater fan to high that all the dash lights died, fan went off, headlights off, turn signals didnt' work, but the engine ran smoothly. Not so good on the highway at night!There have been a few time, not recently, when the car wouldn't start. No dome lights, no dash lights with key turned to ON, no clicking or starter with key turned to START. It acted as if my battery was missing. The cure was to turn the headlights on. All normal after that.
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I've had my 2012 Elantra for a year and a half now, and just about a month ago I started noticing a noise coming from the dashboard area on the passenger side. It sounds like a small marble rolling around. I only hear it when I'm taking sharp turns. I've already taken everything out of the glove box, and I checked all of the little compartments in the doors. I even checked under the seats, but I can still hear the noise.
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I got into my car this morning and looked down to notice that the dash trim is beginning to pop loose... I haven't tried to remove this trim before so I don't know how it happened.
Here are some pictures ....
I am going to take this into the dealer later this week.
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My dashboard light used to dim when I turned my headlights on (normal behavior). Now they go off altogether. Dangerous, n'est-ce pas? Is it a known issue with, for example, a fuse or relay?
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My 2010 prius is making a strange sound, and has been since day one.
It makes a "Clicking" sound sometimes that can be heard inside the cabin and sounds like it is coming from the center dash. It is definitely NOT a squeaky dash or door panel or anything like that. It is definitely electrical in nature. It almost sounds like a very fast clicking relay or maybe another electrical component. It is fairly high pitched (not like the inverter whine, though) and definitely clicking (maybe buzzing), not constant. It sort of sounds like a cricket. I am working on adding some audio/video to this post, should have some up today.
Here are some things I have noticed about the noise:
1. Only happens when gas pedal is depressed, not when braking or coasting.
2. When the display is in "Eco" it happens loudest and consistently when the bar is 3/4 of the way full, but it can happen (although the clicking is slower and less consistent) at 1/2 or just before the power section of the bar.
3. The car must be "warmed up" i.e. doesn't happen right away, car must be driven for 10-15 min if engine is cool.
4. Seems to be happening more/more quickly after starting the car in the hotter weather (I purchased my car in Feb.)
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I"m getting a tapping sound coming from the dash. It happens every time I start the car(hot or cold engine) and lasts for about 10 seconds. It also happens when I adjust the fan speed for the heater/AC, NOT when I first turn the blower motor on. The noise was completely gone after I removed the heater fuse.
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Ford Tech. told me today the reason my a/c wouldn't cool is I have a bad evap. temp. sensor and this part was "non-replaceable" the fix is a HVAC Box from ford, (price includes a h/core replacement since dash would already be out) it has 85000 miles 2010 f150 Screw 4x4.is this my only option for repairing my a/c.
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