Ford - Focus :: 2008 - Vents On Dashboard And Defogger Would Not Blow Air
Sep 29, 2011
I recently had my Focus in the shop for some body work due to hail damage. After I got the car back, the air vents on the dashboard and the defogger would not blow air. Only the lower vents would blow air, regardless of which setting I had the vent selector on. (Even if I had the selector to defogger or dashboard vents only, the vents by my feet blew out air). The guy who runs the body shop said that wouldn't be related to anything they did on the car. What might be causing this? It's no longer under warranty, so I want to know if there's an easy at-home fix. (Also, when I got the car back, the dashboard clock and the preset radio stations had been reset. Don't know if this might be related to the problem with the vents).
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I have a 1990 Chevy Celebrity wagon with a vent problem. The air will only blow out the dashboard vents, so I'm getting no heat down below, or air to the defroster.
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Just passed 30 months and 30k miles in my 2012 TDI SEL and suddenly the air conditioning fans blow harder as I press on the accelerator pedal.
To be more clear, as I accelerate, I can hear the windshield/defogger fans blow harder. When I let up on the accelerator the fan noise dies down. I tried adjusting the A/C settings to blow to the middle or feet only, and also enabling/disabling cabin air circulation. It only seems to be the defogger fans that do this.
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Push A/C button is always on green. The (air speed) 01234 button is also always on green. the Push button turns on and off orange whenever I click it.
Anyways, the AC doesn't blow any hot air... always just cold. I've adjusted the dial to red and have left it there for a long time... no hot air. Any trouble shooting I can do?
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My question is about the AC in my 2003 Ford Focus hatchback. On settings 1-3, the green AC light will come on, but no air comes out of any of the vents. On these settings, no air comes out at all whether or not the AC button is pressed. Air will come out of the vents on setting 4, but this causes the AC light to go out. I don't think it's a problem with the actual cooling, because if I leave the AC on in settings 1-3, and then turn the setting up to 4, for a brief time cold air will blow out of the vents before it turns into fan air. It's as if the cold air has been building up and gets released on setting 4. However, after doing this I think I could detect a slight burning smell. Is it possible there is a clog somewhere?
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On my 2000 f250 diesel, it seems like the ac blows barely on the max ac setting. I swear its gotten worse over the years. Is it the fan? something else?
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2005 Ford Focus : About 10 months ago noticed my battery light was faintly visible with car off and key out of ignition. It was faint and erratically pulsing, it also did this when car was running. This issue would last a week or so, then go away for a while...then come back.
Then it spread to include the ABS light too, and eventually became permanent. But six weeks ago, after driving from CA to WI, it went away...for a few weeks, but came back.
A few days ago I went to my car, and it spread to include the checkfuel cap, oil, and door ajar lights. Also a loud beep occurs at erratic intervals. The lights all flash and pulse individually. Most are faint, but the oil light and door ajar light seem full strength. When I turn the key to second position, all the lights light up full strength and solid, like they're supposed to (for the testing phase).
Then once car is on, they go back to flickering faintly...but the loud beep goes away. I'm concerned about the beeping running down the battery with car off-so I pulled out fuse #36, which is for "a/c swith, instrument cluster". This stops the beeping and flickering, cuz the lights no longer have power to them.
The battery voltage is 12.3 volts, and while running it's a steady 14.35 volts.
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To kick off the coldest week (so far) of the winter season, I noticed a problem with the heater controls in my 06 Explorer with manual temp. controls. No matter which fan settings I select (defrost, panel+floor, etc), air does not blow through some of the vents. I can hear the fan working and air flows through the defrost vents and through the floor vents, but the there is no airflow through the vents below radio and round vents on the far left and far right sides of the dashboard.
Perhaps related to this problem, a couple months ago I replaced the blower motor resistor because fan speeds 1 and 2 did not work, only 3 and 4 worked, so whenever I would turn on the heat or A/C, it was on full blast all the time. After replacing the resistor, the issue was resolved and all of the speeds worked well. I guess I just never realized the issue with the vents, or maybe the problem happened because I replaced the resistor?
Since I'm not too knowledgeable with the climate control circuit, I'm not too sure where to begin, perhaps the switch or blower motor?
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After some diag I got the A/C to blow out the front vents. There are million threads on this issue half of them are never figured out. This is the second time I have come across this problem so will make this really informative for those who have this problem. If you A/C blows to defrost, yes most of the time its going to be a vacuum leak issue.
Step 1) turnkey on engine off, stand by passenger fender and listen.. can you hear the pump running? If it is your pump isn’t dead.
Step 2) does the pump run for 30 seconds then shut off? You may not have a vacuum leak. If keep’s running for ever you have a leak. Inspect all lines, especially those going down to the hubs for cracks. Also inspect vacuum lines under passenger glovebox.
Step 3) can’t find a leak? Disconnect the line going to the ESOF solenoid and plug it, if you pump stops running then your ESOF solenoid has an internal leak. That was my problem 6 months ago, replaced ESOF, A/C blows normally.
Try This Second! So my AC isn't blowing through my front vents again.... (more diag)
AC not blowing through vents and can’t find a vacuum leak? Take off glove box door, turn AC control switch to floor/defrost/front vents, watch the metal arm connected to the side of the big black box move up and down into various positions. I noticed on mine the arm will go down in positions (floor or defrost) But it will not move up! Which needs to happen to switch to front vents. If I push the rod up by hand manually, the ac will blow through front vents, and stay blowing through front vents even after I let go. PIC of metal arm thing connected to diaphragm, which changes air flow by moving flap inside the big black box
I am guessing the Diaphragm is the issue? The truck will continue to blow from the front vents even when the truck is shut off and restarted, it will stop when I switch the ac to a different position, it will not return back to front vents.
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My defrost & front vents work fine. My back vents that are in the back of the console switch from hot to cold like it suppose to, but they do not blow out enough to feel it in the back seat or third row seat.
Also when I use the heat the front flat part of the console by the drink holders especially gets red hot to the point it can melt plastic ink pen or anything else you lay there. which concerns me since I have a 9 yr old.
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6 months ago AC started to only blow through Defrost, replaced EOSF and problem went away. Today my ac started to blow through defrost, switched to floor it will shift from defrost to floor, switch back to defrost, it goes back to blowing to defrost, switch to front vents, nothing stays at defrost. Air pump kicks on for 30 seconds (KOEO) then shuts off. If I disconnect a vacuum line pump turns on. I am pretty sure at this point.. its not a vacuum leak. What else should I look at?
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I am not sure, since now, that my RWD has ever worked, the fuse is fine, the light comes on, the lines on the window are not broken. No defogging. Connections seem good everywhere.
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2011 F350 6.2L Gas engine. Last fall when I first started using my heat I noticed that the air would only blow through the dash vents. It will not switch over to defrost or floor. I have an XLT I am pretty sure the controls are the basic controls. there are push buttons to change from floor/vent and defrost. I do recall the summer before I had I noticed the problem I would hear a clicking sound in behind the dash. I figured something fell down the defrost vent. I see people who have had this problem on older trucks talking about an actuator. I've looked on ford parts site and I cannot find an actuator listed for the damper door. I was hoping to see what it looks like so I could try and find it in my truck.
I do have the dash pulled apart and I can reach up and manually move a lever that is connected to a cable. and I can change the air outlet to the floor, but I cannot get it to change to defrost. While I have the dash apart I also tried pressing the buttons on the heat control to see if the lever which I am moving by hand is moving at all and it is no. I was thinking if something was stuck in the system I would probably be able to feel the cable at least try to move, but it does not. The white cable which is connected to the lever which I am moving goes into the bottom of the duct work, where it goes from there, but I am assuming some kind of actuator?
This is right in front of the 4x4 shifter
Obviously behind the glove box
With the radio removed
I'm guessing this is 1 of the motors?
I stuck my camera up there to see what was there. This is as far forward as I could go on the drive rside and in front of the 4x4 shifter. You can see the end of the cable I'm assuming that is the door.....
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My 2003 S60 tried to make my life interesting yet again by refusing to blow air through the vents as normal. Only a little finds its way to the vents. The fan sounds good and strong, and the temperature is proper based on my setting. It's like it's stuck somewhere between the three settings for the direction of the fan (head, torso, and feet.) It usually works fine for a while, and then it's like a computer or flap gate get tired and gives up...
It may be relevant to know that this issue occurred around the same time my cluster started dying. I have since reflowed it and it is working as normal. Unfortunately, the climate control system is still angry.
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My vents don't blow hot air, even when I have the dial set to max heat. The air is only moderately warm. In the winter, one definitely needs to keep their coat on when traveling in my car. (It's a 2003 Passat V6.) The needle in the engine temperature gauge is vertical once I have been driving for 5 minutes, so I think the thermostat is OK. This morning it was 17 degrees; I'd sure like heat soon.
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So today is the first hot day of the year here in Central PA. I jump in my car at lunch - turn on the A/C & it won't blow out of the top vents. Blowing like crazy on my feet - and freezing them - but won't blow through the dash vents! Worked fine last year - awesome in fact!! Actually cool air is trickling through the top vents - but not blowing like I know it should.
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Abridged version: My fans won't blow any air out of the vents. If I spin the blower/fan motor that is behind the glove compartment, it'll work again. But the cycle repeats itself every time I turn the car on.
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I purchased Hyundai Accent 2005 (Used car) recently. My Air Condition is having some problem. when I switch on the AC the air flow very low from the vents, even i put the fan speed is full (4) feels like fan switch is in low (1). The blower giving sound like it is giving air like more than full speed. fan speed selector switch working ok, because the speed of the air vary from the 1 to 4 positions. also i feel very low cooling in high speed also. i found one more problem that if i change the air flow switch to defrost level, the air flow is coming through the windshield defrost vents and the floor vents. if the switch selected to Floor-Defrost Level also the air coming through the both ways. What could the problem.
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I have a 2006 F-250 Super Cab with climate control. The last three years when the temp exceeds about 85 degrees outside it acts up. It will switch from the AC vents to defrost and blow normal air through, not ac cold. Then it will switch back, when doing so I can hear the internal deflector shudder. It will do this every few minutes. It is extremely annoying. All other times of the year it works fine. My local dealer had the truck last year, but could not find anything wrong. I have used the search and also Googled and while I find similar problems nothing exactly the same.
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Looking to get the A/C working on my '78 F150 with integral (factory) A/C system. It is complete, but it seems to be blowing warm air as opposed to cold.
When I turn on the A/C, the compressor engages and the blower switches to the dashboard vents. I waited for a minute or two, but no cool air.
The sight glass has a silver line running through it. I assumed this was full? It would be black if it was low/empty.
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So, I purchased a 2004 Subaru forester at the in of 2013, from a private seller. When I turn on the a/c the air is warm, I thought maybe the refrigerant so low, so I check the level and it is good, the a/c compressor clutch engages, but warm air still comes out of the vents. I am asking what else could cause the a/c to blow warm air?
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