Ford - Focus :: 2007 Keep Blowing 10amp Fuse
Nov 7, 2011
My 2007 Focus wagon keep blowing (#30) 10amp fuse. It is connected to the tail lights (when the lights are on), the license plate light, and dashboard lights. I think it is related to moisture as it is worse (keeps blowing the fuse) after a rain. I've checked the taillights and there isn't any moisture there (although when I first found this, both taillight housings were pretty melted). Where to look for the short? Some other discussion groups listed different harnesses, but which one...I have the sinking feeling this is going to be impossible to find (or REALLY expensive)
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My father is having electrical issues and I'm hoping this is the cause. Where this ground cable originates from?
He replaced the battery last week after vehicle would not start. Noticed he blew a radio fuse but nothing else until yesterday. Major issues of all instruments, ac, windows, etc going out. Unable to start vehicle without jump.Had a error code B1676. So today we switched the battery, all is good (for now) except for horn fuse that keeps blowing.
It's a 2007 ford explorer 2wd v6
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2007 FJ Cruiser, 4WD, 65K Miles. I replaced the 120 AMP Fuse. Starts, everything seems to work, but the 40 AMP Fuse (ABS Motor) is blown. New fuses blow as soon as I place them in. Brakes pedal has little resistance and can barely stop the vehicle at slow speeds.
What will stop the 40 amp ABS fuse from blowing?
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I have a 07' hyundai santa fe and recently I had a 10 amp fuse blow labeled A/CON and so I replaced it and it worked for about 2-3 weeks and it blew again, and so I'm getting more fuses Monday to see if it keeps working, but from what I read online it looks like the field coil is the culprit, I tried to read the ohms from the relay and got .5 kohms (which I see its supposed to be 3-4ohms) but i have a crappy multimeter and I'm not sure if that's right anyway.
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My 2010 Sante Fe started blowing the BCM 1 fuse.The vehicle will not even crank over. Its at the dealer for the 3rd time time this week. 1st time thought it was a faulty fuse, 2nd time replaced the drivers door lock actuator.
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Have 2 problems that are giving me major problems.....especially with 100 degree heat in Dallas.
1. Ac stopped blowing cold last night out of blue. Still blows just not cold. Replaced bad fuse and drove for 5 minutes. Blew again. Checked out the control/ circuit board but looks ok. Really cant afford dealer.
2. Check engine light problem for months. Gas gauge wasn't working. Replaced fuel sending units and it fixed that but still light. Code says p441. Dealer said need solenoid valve. Replaced both the solenoid valve and the purge control valve. Still check engine light.
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We bought this car a month ago, 2007 US touring model. It had a 15A fuse in the Gauge position (spec calls for 10A there) when we bought it. As of last week it is blowing a lot.
What we've noticed:
- First time it happened I noticed my signals weren't working. After 5 minutes of driving I pulled over and turned the car off and on. At that point the Combination Meter went blank. After getting home I found the fuse blown. Replaced it with a 10A fuse, and that blew right away when starting the car. Replaced it with a 15A fuse and it worked for a few trips.
- While I was away for a week, my wife replaced the fuse 3 times while it blew away from home. (she estimates every third trip) She has found it seems to happen when putting the car in reverse.
- Today the car is working fine, and I can't replicate the problem.
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Every time I step on the brakes, there is a bright spark in fuse #13. My brake lights, turn signals and hazards don't work. At this point my truck isn't drivable.
According to the owner's manual in my truck, says circuit #13 is for "stop lamps, CHMSL/hazard, trailer tow stop lamp, and speed control."
I'm assuming that the hazard part covers the turn signals as well, but I know the cruise control works even when the fuse is blown. I used it last night on the way home (this was before I realized I didn't have brake lights).
So I know I have a short somewhere. The only mods I've done to the lights are the aftermarket headlights, but if the fuse only gets blown when I step on the brakes, I don't see what that would have to do with it. Also, these lights have been installed and working for about a month before this started. The only thing that I did around the same time was install the gauges. I ran the power to them from #5, the customer access circuit.
Are there any other "common" areas for this to happen? I already removed the rear brake lights and it didn't work. I am quickly running out of 20A mini fuses.
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Why the 30amp PCM fuse located in the under dash panel would blow. Problem started while truck was running and a simple replace of the fuse would it it back alive again. Now fuse is blowing at ignition on. Truck is 1997 F250 LD.
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I am having trouble with fuse 23 under the hood blowing while driving. I have read several threads on this issue but still no luck. I have removed all 4 02 sensors and ac relay and still about 1/4 mile down the road the fuse blows, and is giving the shift solenoid A shift solenoid B and the torque converter clutch solenoid electrical circuit. I have checked both plugs on the trans, I even dropped the pan and ohmed the solenoids out. I dont know what else to do?
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Description: It will crank over forever but not start. New timing belt water pump, etc, so it is not timing. tried different fuel pump relay. no luck. new fuse no luck. The radio fuse also shorts and blows when I change it. Headlight does not come on, but the cabin "ding ding ding" sound plays. Marker, turning, reverse, and brake lights work.
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT does not come on during key turn. I may know what caused it or it may not. Before all of this happened, my audio system fuse under the hood blow. It blew again after I installed a new fuse (immediately).
One day, the wires on a portable cigarette light pump snapped and the two wires had been touch. I noticed the truck stalled several times when letting off the gas and coming to a rolling stop. The fuel pump relay makes a click noise when I turn the key
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My A/C clutch fuse (#46) keeps blowing when the car is started but a/c is not on. Checked relay, it's ok. Unplugged compressor but the fuse still blows. Fan works, heat works, but no cold air.
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The fuse for the speedometer keeps blowing. I changed the fuse and the circit breaker in Dec. 6 weeks later the fuse blew again, I replaced it and it last another 2 weeks and blew again. What is causing and what might be the solution?
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2008 F150 Super crew 5.4 v8, bone stock. The truck was acting up with a rough idle and slight miss when in gear at a stop 2 weeks ago, loss of power going uphill. Changed fuel filter and filled up with premium and a can of sea foam. The truck straightened up after that, so I thought. Last Friday it dies in the road, cranks, but no fire.
Has to be the engine, had it towed to the local dealer and they get to look at it Monday afternoon, said the transmission fuse was blown and it keeps blowing new ones, it's in the transmission wiring. I am used to older trucks and was blown away transmission wiring will shut the truck down. I would think the wiring harness to the transmission would be simple enough to check out, can the wiring or solenoids in the tranny cause this?
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Fuse #27 keeps blowing as soon as I shift into reverse.
Prior to shifting, everything works as it should - I've unplugged the rear sensors, back up lights, trailer plug, and each time, fuse #27 keeps blowing.....
Where I should look? Also - looking for a 2003 excursion wiring diagram that shows what all fuse#27 controls?
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2000 Model, The fuse keeps blowing on this. I thought it was the cruise control fuse because the cruise kept not working and when I replaced fuse it would work. Only for a little though, then I looked at manual and it says the fuse is for the brake position switch. I am presuming this is just like the old days and that is the brake light switch under the dash. They use to have two wires now there is like five. Anyways I do not see any bare wires or anything that would blow a fuse, is it common for these switches to go out or what??
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my wifes explorer is getting no fuel. (there is a valve I depressed similaR to a tire valve, I pressed it once some fuel dribbled out, and thats it, turned the key several times and not a drop off fuel. I went as far as checking the fuse, the fuse is not blown. what are my next steps of trouble shooting.
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Overdrive fuse keeps blowing. Drive one and 2 shifts fine. 3 and overdrive don't work. Had transmission checked it is fine. Repair shop says it is electrical.
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I own a 2004 F150 Screw Lariat and the fuse # 41 keep blowing. This fuse goes to the cigar lighter and the Diagnostic connector power. As soon as I put the fuse in, it sparks and blows. I have even tried different sizes.
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My dad's 1991 Ford ranger 3.0 2wd just died on him when he was driving home and I checked to see if the truck had a spark and it did not so I replaced the ignition control module, then ignition coil, then distributor and rotor cap(plug) and I put new plugs and wires on it a few months back too. I also checked to make sure that the timing chain was working as well (while I had the distributor cap off). Then I realized that the EEC maxi fuse was blown. I then found a fourm that said it might be the relay so I replaced the EEC and the fuel pump relays while I had them both out. Every time I put a new 30 amp fuse in the EEC slot and turn the key to start it the fuse blows and the truck won't start. What might be wrong?
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I have a 2001 F-450 SD with 7.3. What the problems would for the blowing of fuse #3. The DLC fuse. I mean I know it goes to the cigarette lighter as well. but when not in use it still blows.
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