Ford Focus Station Wagon 2006 - Seems to have electrical problem. Warning lights for check engine and ABS come on randomly. Also when car is parked and temperature is low, Clock time is lost and radio stations are lost. Is there some type of grounding issue?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Focus ZX3 (2D Hatchback) that has been randomly stalling since we bought it. There is no engine light, the dealership couldn't get it to stall and just gave it back. Another garage got it to stall and thought it might be the "idle-oxygen sensor" (not sure if I'm remembering the name correctly), but that didn't stop it from stalling either.
My wife is ready to dump it, but even spending a couple thousand a year on repairs is less than the grand total of a year's payments on a new car, insurance, etc. But it would be nice to fix it.
I recently had 2 coils replaces and 4 spark plugs (CODES SHOWING ACCORDING TO GOODYEAR) replaced because the engine light was ON. Now My car intermittently shuts off without warning, but will restart about 1 or 2 minutes later showing CHECK GAS CAP on dashboard. Went back to Goodyear thinking maybe faulty parts. They ask if any lights are on like the check engine light, they tell me if not they don't know, come back if it continues. I thought maybe it's my battery.
The guys at Battery Bills connected a devise to the battery that shows green if it's charged, YELLOW if it needs to be driven more(or issue) RED(not enough power PROBLEM) and I when back to them yesterday and they rechecked...Battery is fully charged. They said the alternator is good also, I'm not too sure they checked.Later after work I fuel up a the Chevron instead of Costco thinking maybe the gas??? My car starts then dies, the battery signal device is showing red.
I get a jump, the second the cables are connected to my battery the device shows green, my car starts right up. Pull out to the traffic light, car shuts off, but restarts. I was told to drive my car at least 30 minutes away from home and back about once a week, to keep battery charged because I live less than 10 minutes away from wherever I drive to....so I DRIVE about 5 minutes in my car starts to stutter(hesitate) twice, but smooths out and I also notice the RPM gauge is showing 0???? NO ERROR LIGHTS or CHECK ENGINE ARE SHOWING ON THE DASHBOARD so I continue home at a lost. My car is a 2010 Accent with 57,100 miles....
Just got a new-to-me 2006 F350 Super Duty XL with the 5.4L V8 and 5-speed auto. I haven't had a full-size truck in a few years and forgot what I was missing!
When I bought the truck, all gauges were inoperative except for the fuel and oil pressure gauges. The previous owner told me they would work intermittently and at some point just stopped. The usual warning lights - ABS, CEL, and "the wrench" - were all lit, and from Googling and searching this forum, it looked like an easy fix - probably a pinched or frayed shifter wire, or possibly a cluster repair.
I took it home and did a self test on the gauges. The "sweep gauges" made everything swing fine, so I was thinking it might not be a problem in the cluster. I pulled the steering column apart, removed the Tow/Haul overdrive wire from the plastic retainer, re-ran it with some slack, taped the end where it comes out of the shifter (even though I saw no breaks/frays) cleaned the connections, gave it a dollop of dielectric grease in the connector, and put it all back together. VOILA - GAUGES and no warning lights! You can imagine the touchdown dance in the driveway.
Fast forward a few weeks and....back to no gauges and warning lights lit. Figuring the overdrive wire had finally given up, I ordered and installed a replacement shifter figuring it was an easy and cheap fix. No joy - same problem. Tried cleaning and reseating the connection. Nothing. I've searched FTE like mad and it seems like 95% of the problems are with the wire exiting the shifter fraying and/or blowing a fuse, but this is a new shifter. I've also checked fuses #2, #24, #33, #36, #41, and #45 (some referenced #19 but I don't have a fuse there). All were unbroken - just put them back in and reseated firmly. I did a code pull via OBD2 and have a "rear catalytic efficiency degraded" code...not sure if that's related, but figured I just had an exhaust issue.
I may take the dash cover off and try to clean and reset the connections on the gauge cluster, as well as do the same for the PCM. Is it possible that the tow/haul overdrive wire to the PCM (where the shifter connects to) is bad? How to test and/or replace if it comes up bad?
I am getting occasional "check lights" warnings in my 2006 V8. I just exited warranty but complained several times of these warnings during the warranty period. Unfortunately, the dealer never found anything (and I am too busy to go into the dealer while the code is still in the system).
What it might be? I haven't ever actually seen a light out or anything, everything *appears* to be working. I even had both xenon bulbs replaced under warranty because they said that the bulbs in the first run of 2006 tregs were flagged for recall and they speculated that might be the cause of the warnings.
2012 Corolla S with 84000 miles, for the last month the check engine and trac off light keeps coming on randomly. I disconnect the negative battery charge and wait 10min and reconnect and it goes away. I havnt counted how many miles I go until the light come back on. But since the last time I disconnected the battery my car has been on for 8hours on the engine time. I had them scan it at autozone and the car is throwing two codes one was the MAF and I can't recall the other.
View 5 Replies I recently purchased a rebuilt 2014 Ford Focus ST3 with about 11,000 miles on it. The engine is a turbocharged 2.0L EcoBoost. I usually use 91 or 93 octane fuel, whichever is the highest available. - 6 speed manual and around 285 horsepower (with tune) is a lot of fun to drive. When I bought it, I had the mechanic that was rebuilding it put an Injen cold air intake on it. A few weeks after I got the car, I took the it to a local performance shop to get it tuned. The tune works great and added a bit of power to the car, but now I have a strange issue.
About 1 time out of 75 when I take off, the car throttle is limited and displays the message "Engine fault - service engine now". On one occasion the engine even stalled on me while crossing a highway. Note that this happens while shifting into and releasing the clutch ONLY on first or second gear. In order to get my car running properly again, I need to come to a complete stop and turn off the engine and then restart it. Sometimes the check engine light stays on, but it usually goes away after I restart. The only engine code that is shown is P106B, which has something to do with an incorrect reading on MAF sensor causing the throttle body to close.
Research online told me this issue is commonly caused by a damaged/improperly sealed intake filter or a crack in the intake itself, which changes the angle that air hits the MAF sensor. I have checked both of these and they are good. I have ruled out a bad throttle body control because if that is bad it usually throws another code indicating that it is faulty.
The only thing that I can think of, and I may be wrong, is that when the performance shop tuned my car they tuned it for a stock intake. This would mean that the car does not think it should be getting the airflow that it is and throttles it down to compensate.
I am not sure what to do at this point because (A) the issue impossible to replicate and seems to happen at random, and (B) I cannot just take it to the performance shop and tell them to fix it because I am not sure what is wrong in the first place.
My gas cap warning light came on this morning, I thought I would fill the car in case the cap is loose. After the car was refulled to the max, the car just started, spluttered for a few seconds as if it was going to stall, then after a quick rev it ran fine to the office. The gas cap light went out, but just before I got to work the check engine light has come on.
Is this a sensor breaking down or something serious?? I only have 16k miles
So I was driving for a couple of hours today in my recently acquired 2001 Prius, when the red warning triangle and the check engine lights came on. The car seemed to still drive fine (70 ish mph cruising). HV Battery? P3000 P3020 Error codes.....
View 17 RepliesThe vehicle: 2007 Tundra, 5.7, 4WD, SR5, 71K miles
The issue: The Check Engine, VSC and 4LO indicators came on abruptly within 5 minutes of the first start-up of the day and after driving ~ 1/2 mile on paved road. Weather conditions: high humidity and unseasonable high ambient temperature.
What has been done: Immediately returned home. My local "guy" stopped by with his code checker. Codes that came up: C10201 and P2440 (Wheel sensor and secondary air pump, I am unsure which is which). Codes were cleared, indicators went off. Within 0.2 mile of driving "around the block" the same indicators and codes came on. My local guy recommended a trip to the dealer for repair as he would have to get sensors/parts from Toyota and be replacing sensors until the problem was repaired (I respect him for that).
The question: what is the guesstimated cost for dealer repair? The truck can be operated in a "failure" mode and can get to the local dealer under it's own (reduced) power.
I was driving last night and my car Triangle Warning Light and Check Engine Light Went on along with on the nav screen a car with a ! mark in it came on. On The info screen the battery level was changing fast from fully charged to just about empty. The car lost almost all power going about 42 miles an hour. I was able to pull to the side and i waited 10 minutes then tried to turn the car on again. I was able to drive home and the warning lights were still on but at least my car had power. What could possible be wrong?
View 19 RepliesAs far as the owner can tell, the car is running fine. He hasn't driven it aside from getting home after the light came on. It seems to give a very informative error message. What it's saying?
View 4 RepliesMy 2005 Prius with 116K on it has been having some uneven acceleration lately and today the Triangle warning light, the check engine light and the brake light came on at the same time. I had about 1/2 mile to go, so I proceeded slowly and called the dealership which had performed a routine oil chg two days ago. They said that if the lights weren't flashing then I could drive it. They recommended that I take it to AUTO ZONE and put it on the analyzer. This elicited these codes: P3019: no definition and P0A80: replace Hybrid Battery.
I have an appointment in 2 days and I'm wondering about a salvage HV battery since the car is 7 yrs old and over 116K miles.
This afternoon, after driving about 150 miles, I came home and shut off my 2001 Prius. It was sitting for about 20 minutes before I turned it back on to drive off. Almost immediately, the hybrid warning light came on on the MFD, the red exclamation mark light illuminated, as well as the check engine light, and the motor shut off. I popped the hood, and could hear a high pitched squeal coming from near the inverter. I called my dealer to ask the service department what I should do, and they just told me to bring it in and they will take a look at it. I live over an hour away, so I don't want to bring it there if I can avoid it. I then shut it off and let it sit for a few hours.
After reading about the possibility of the auxiliary battery being bad, I went and turned the Prius on, and then shut it off several times to reset the hybrid warning light (I had to do so in order to access the aux battery information through the MFD). It turned on without incident, and shut off fine, and after being reset the hybrid warning light shut off, as well as the red triangle light. Then, I went through the process of pulling up the battery voltage information through the MFD.
With the car off, and the lights and fans off, the battery voltage read about 10.0-10.5 V. With the lights and fan on, the voltage dropped to about 9.5 V. After getting those readings, I drove it down the road a little ways, just going about 20 mph. It seemed to work fine. The check engine light is still illuminated. With the motor running, the voltage reading was 13.2 V, and then when I got back from my test drive and shut it off, the voltage hovered at 10.6 V with the lights and fan on.
My 2004 Focus passed its emissions test in Maryland in the late fall last year. Shortly thereafter, the check engine light came on. My mechanic put it on the computer and said it needed a new catalytic converter. It only had 86,000 miles on it. I watched and waited for a few months and had the fuel filter changed during a routine oil change. A couple of days after the fuel filter was replaced the check engine light went off and stayed off for 4 months, but it came back on a couple of days ago. I have been watching the mileage carefully and it has been steady at about 26 MPG for years.
View 5 RepliesSo randomly today, my Edge is constantly rebooting and the ABS and Parking warning lights are on. My brakes feel fine though and the Edge won't stay on for longer than a few seconds before rebooting.
View 1 Replies2004 Ford Focus, 2 Liter Zetec engine.0. Situation: Car initially running well but want to improve mileage, so I installed premium plugs.1. Ran roughly on test run, so headed home. Check Engine light came on before fully warmed up.2. Found and corrected loose plug wire.3. Engine now purrs like a kitten, but Check Engine light stays on.
What should I do now?
Ok I just bought a used 2003 Ford Focus from a dealership which I am financing and after the second day driving the check engine light came on. Once I saw that I took it back to the dealer and he told me the sensor was very sensitive and because I didn't close the gas tank tightly the light came on. I didn't feel satisfied with this answer so I took the car for a diagnostic. They informed me that the car had a gasket leak. I then took the car back to the dealership and told them what I had been informed and the mechanic told me that it wasn't a big deal, nothing for me to worry about. Now I don't know much about cars and I have been doing a little research of my own and a gasket leak seems to be a big problem.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata V6.
The Check Engine light came on days ago. I have tried to re-close the gas cap, it's not it. This morning, I am on my way to bring my daughter to school and maybe 500 feet out of my driveway onto the main road, my car loose it's acceleration power. I pulled over and noticed the ESC light was on. I turned off the engine. Turned it back on. Both lights still on. Rinse...repeat with turning it off and turning it on....this time it worked, ESC light was now off but the Check Engine light was still on. I proceeded back onto the road with no more acceleration problems.
I have a 2006 Sonata v6 with 154,000 miles on it. Haven't had much trouble with it at all.
Today, while driving in blustery winds, but dry roads, with my cruise control on, my ESC and ABS lights went on, simultaneously disengaging the cruise. About 20 min later, when I stopped for gas, I turned the car off. On restart, the lights stayed on. No more than 5 min later once I got on the freeway, the check engine light went on, as well. I'm wondering if this might all be an electrical issue easily solved and not an immediate safety issue? I'm 60 min from home, and hope there's not a problem with driving back.
Check engine light came on momentarily, car had poor acceleration. Light went out and ESC light came on. When the car was turned off and restarted, the ESC light went out.
I scanned the engine, no codes, either open, pending or historical.
Question, could the issues with the two lights be related? Or is there anything else I should check?