Ford - Focus :: 2005 - Won't Turn Over / Just Clicking From Starter?
Aug 16, 2015
So I left my car running ran into a store came out it had turned off so went to start it it and it wouldn't turn over all you could hear was clicking from the starter so had a guy boost it and engine turned over and started just fine but i had no power to anything I couldn't even take the tranny outta park? So i left it sitting for about an hour went back and it fired up just fine? Had battery tested and it was fully charged. Also when car is off and I am inside my interior lights flash on and off as well as there's a beeping like every 5 to 10 minutes.
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I have a 2005 Ford Focus, we bought it used. On occasion it loses power(electrical) and won't start I hear a relay clicking faintly but no attempt by the starter to engage. when this happens the am/fm radio will lose the presets and will actually come on by itself at a am mode and static. when this has happened I have touched various electrical components (battery posts fuses relays etc) and most times on the next try it will start. Sometimes you turn the key back on a couple of times and it starts immediately .
I have had this happen twice while driving down the road and not noticed any change except the radio comes on by itself and presets and clock needs to be reset. I have pulled all fuses and relays to check for any corrosion and plugged all connection etc in and out all looks ok. This might only happen once a month or if vehicle is left setting for a few days Battery is new and checked at 97% unit starts up immediately if problem is not there and it doesn't seem to matter what you touch or move it just starts when it wants to Ford dealer says it needs a new battery (doesn't comment when told it is new and battery and starter work fine when called on except for this glitch).
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My 2005 Ford Focus just came out of the shop getting the alternator replaced. Driving down the road it just died. The car still has power, Lights, interior lights, all that stuff is on. I turn the key and nothing.
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I have a 2005 f-250 King Ranch 5.4 triton engine...my problem occurs when i turn the key to start the pickup....i get a clicking sound and then nothing....when i use a portable jump starter, it fires right up...on the other hand, when i try to jump from a running vehicle i only get a clicking sound from the starter...
not sure what i should be testing...also, when i bought the vehicle it had been sitting for several months...for my test drive, they used a commercial charger/starter to fire the truck...i drove it about 10 miles, stopped, turned off the motor and 10 minutes later it wouldn't start...when i contacted the owner, he drove to me and "reset" the kill switch under the fuse box in the cab and then jump started the truck...
I drove it 40 miles home and for 4 days had no starting issues...on day 5 forward, i have had to use the portable jump starter every time...my battery shows 13 amps resting and drops to 5 amps when i try to start without portable jump starter...when i start it with the portable jump starter, it only drops to 10 amps...
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I have a 96 toyota camry that won't start. when i turn the key, the starter clicks but doesn't turn. I replaced the starter and it works fine (as does the one i took out). the battery was obviously checked and is charged. When I hook up the starter to the leads and its not in the engine it doesn't turn (in other words, its not a locked engine). I replaced one of the fuses in the starting relay and it didn't make a difference. So the problem is between the battery and the starter - the starter isn't getting enough power (if i take it to an autoparts store it works when hooked up to their system but doesn't work (but makes a click) when hooked up to the car.
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Neighbor bought a 91 tracker. We put a new battery and alternator in it. We have to jump the vehicle to get it to start. While running with the light on, the lights are extremely dim. Sometimes the vehicle will start again, but most times it won't. What I mean by it won't start is nothing happens when you turn the key. No clicking starter does not engage. Sometime the car will not stay running with out charger attached. Then again sometimes everything is fine.
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I have a Chevy Tahoe 1999, Went to the store came out my Tahoe wouldn't start i had it towed home. My husband said the starter was clicking but wasn't getting enough power to turn the flywheel. We got a new starter put it on and it clicked just like it did when i tried to start it before. We took the new starter back and had the old one tested and it was ok so we put it back on and it still clicked like before. He said the flywheel was easy to turn, then he replaced the hot wire from the battery to the starter, now the starter don't even click.
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I drive an Infiniti i30. When I bought it, the guy who sold it to me told me that the car runs great but that I would have to turn the key kind of hard to get the car started. Over time, this problem has progressively gotten worse. There have been times where I'd be stuck in a parking lot for over an hour trying to get the car to start. When I turn the key, I can hear the starter clicking, and all of the dash lots and radio will come on but the car doesn't sound like its cranking or even trying to start. The weirdest thing is that the first time I drive my car in the morning it starts up just fine. It's once I turn the car off after driving somewhere and try to start it again that I have problems. I'll have to turn the key 100 times or more sometimes to get it to start if its not the first time of the day. What this could be?
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Alright, so my battery is fully charged and there's water in it. When I turn they key, there is a rapid mechanical clicking clearly coming from the starter area, but no attempt to turn over. Stuck solenoid? Bad starter relay? Bad starter? Missing teeth on the flywheel? Seized engine? The Mayan calendar apocalypse?
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Let me start by saying the car is the 2002 ford focus and has a remote starter keyless entry and alarm that has been in stalled years ago so the one day I'm trying to go inside my car and the unlock button on the key fob doesn't work so I put the key in the door and open it all the doors unlock.
I ignored it when I'm leaving the car I lock it with the key fob it chrips then my son rushes outside and opens the door. That's when I noticed the door didn't lock then I try the door switch to lock and unlock the doors but nothing happens I tried the passenger switch nothing
Symptoms : Both driver and passenger door lock switches are not working If I hit the unlock button twice on the key fob all the doors unlock...
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Almost every time I start my 2001 Ford Focus, it won't start. The starter functions but the engine won't start. I have to pump it, give it gas, and once it starts, it's perfectly fine, no stalling, no problems after that. That is until I turn the engine off. When I go to start it again, say after doing an errand or two, it may or may not happen again throughout the day, the problem only occurring when I attempt to start it.
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I need to locate an unwanted sound from my engine compartment. I am driving a Ford Focus 1.6 petrol engine/zetec (2000), mileage:166 000 km. It's best described as a clicking or ticking sound which is quite distinct. The sound seems to follow the "speed" of the engine.
Most likely the sound is coming from the drivebelt, and maybe from one of the tensioners which the belt is running on.
It's a visible wobble on one of the wheels but I am not sure if this is the case. It does not seem like the sound is originating from the engine itself but I am not 100% sure.
I attached a sound .wav file : ford.wav 1.03MB
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2002 Ford Focus SE Mileage: 140000
Symptoms: When turning right, especially at low speed while braking, it makes this rapid clicking noise, disappears once you let go of the brake.
In the past when it made this kind of noise, usually goes away after I made sure the brake pads clips are securely clipped around the caliper, but it's not working this time. No noise while braking going forward or turning left. Seems to be worse at lower speed and any right turn can bring on the noise, does not have to be a full-lock turn.
So far what I've done: Made sure the brake pads clips are secured (horribly designed), lug nuts are torqued at correct spec, no obvious broken linkage, bar, arm, coil, or CV boots under quick inspection.
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I have a 2004 Ford Focus that has always run like a champ; (71,000) miles. Two years ago it started having some really strange "issues." The car's dash light for the ABS would start to flash off and on, accompanied by a clicking sound whenever it flashed. The brakes are always fine. Next, though, the car starts kicking and "bucking" as though it wanted to die. Whenever I pulled off the road, turned off the car and turned it back on, everything was fine. This went on for weeks but it was sporadic in nature; and naturally it didn't do anything for my mechanic even when I left it there.
I finally took it to the Ford dealer who charged me $800 for a new alternator belt, but it came with no guarantee - they said they frankly didn't know whether it would work or not. Turns out it did, for a couple of years; but it has just now started doing it again. I can find nothing that I'm doing or not doing determines whether this happens or not. Now I've got the same scarey problem all over again, and every couple of years for a new alternator belt, I might as well give it up and sell. I'm getting so tired of hearing "I don't know what's wrong". Oh, by the way, the "check engine" light never goes on.
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My new 2013 Ford Focus is a making a very, very strange noise every time I open the door. The Ford dealer said it's normal for the type of trans and handed me the following statement: " ....vehicles equipped with the Powershift DPS6 transmission may experience a clicking noise from the transmission after the doors are unlocked, opened and prior to the engine starting, for up to 3 min.
The noise is the shift motors waking up and preparing for startup. Attempts to eliminate the noise should not be made." To make it easier to understand the situation, the following link from a YouTube video explains EXACTLY what is occurring: [URL] .....
Hearing such a ridiculous sound/concept about waking up a transmission. Note, this noise even happens when you open the passenger door. Why does the transmission need to be waked up for someone getting in the passenger side. The car cannot be driven from here.
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My 05 Malibu classic is making the turn signal clicking noise constantly which then causes the warning chime to start going off. I have replaced the turn signal assembly three times and each time it fixes it for a short time then it starts again.
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New owner of a 2005 Passat GLS TDI.
For some reason, the Hazard switch clicks a few times after using the turn signals (randomly), or while driving it will start clicking for a few seconds. The lights do not flash. it is only the audible sound coming from the hazard switch area.
Where does that sound come from? the hazard switch? Would replacing the switch with a new one fix it?
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Trying to track down an issue (annoyance) I'm having with my 02 7.3 4x4 excursion. When I get in the truck and turn the key (after waiting for glow plugs) the starter doesn't actually turn over for 1-3 seconds and sometimes up to 5. When the truck does turn over everything works perfect it's just an annoying delay.
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2012 Ford Focus, 115 000 miles. Starting issues. A few weeks ago I would turn the key in the ignition and there would be nothing for about 3 or 4 seconds and then it would turn over. Now it does not turn over at all sometimes. Sometimes it starts right up and other times it does not. The lights on the dashboard still come on but it just does not turn over. Loose connection somewhere? Starter relay? Battery?
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My 05 Ford Focus just suddenly died. I had it jumped and moments later it died again. Jumped it again and it died again. Could this be an alternator problem?
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I have a a 2005 Focus, 199,000 miles. The battery light has been come on randomly. It doesn't seen to be related to any other event in the car. Things I've done to diagnose it...
I cleaned the battery cable connections before I started any diagnostics.
I have two code reader and no codes are being thrown.
I connected a multimeter to the battery while the car was idling in the driveway.
I got 13.8-14.1 volts as the car sat and ran. When the light came on no change on the meter.
I have a Scan Gauge that allows me to watch the voltage in real time. Four days and no change when the light came on. ~13.8-14.1 at idle and ~14.1-14.4 underway.
I have the Car Chip. I plugged it in drove for about 10 runs and the voltage trace was pretty flat on all runs, battery light on or off.
The only thing that is consistent is if the light is on and I rev the engine it goes out BUT they rpm when the light goes is inconsistent.
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