Ford - Focus :: 2005 - Stutter Like Throttle Closed For A Split Second / No Acceleration
Oct 4, 2013
I have a 2005 Focus 2.0 ZX5 manual. 131,000 miles. I believe this has been an ongoing intermittent issue until now. Occasionally while driving before at 45-75 mph I would sometimes get a stutter like the throttle closed for a split second. Now, after installing a K&N CAI the dang thing is about undriveable. At idle no load the engine will not rev, step on the gas and all I get is a groan, pop pop groan slooooow climb in revs to @ 2000 rpm then quickly up to the fuel cut off. In gear , 1st or 2nd, trying to roll out off idle I get nothing more groan sloooow climb up to 2000 rpm then accelerates normally.
At speed in any gear when RPMs drop below 2000 rpm it will not accelerate no matter how hard I press on pedal. Up above 2000 rpm mostly normal unless I get out of throttle, then I get a bucking sensation from engine. I can pull away from stop if I give lots of revs and slip the clutch....not so good for clutch life...The MIL is on, P0113 IAT high bypass. Cleaned old MAF no difference. Replaced MAF no difference. Got a too rich code also but cannot remember DTC. I have also checked for air leaks after the MAF and it all seems rather buttoned up.
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I purchased a 2014 3.6 SEL from a non VW dealer. They may have put regular gas in the car, I feel like it runs weird, feel a delayed throttle response and a little stutter before acceleration? or is it just me?
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This truck isn't mine but it's an 05 F250 automatic. We just did oil cooler, STC, standpipes, dummy plugs, EGR delete, and cleaned the turbo. Truck starts perfectly and runs great 99% of the time. But after a high load throttle situation right when you let off the throttle the engine sounds and feels like it cuts out for a split second, then it comes back and everything is fine. It does it with stock tunes but it is more noticeable with his SCT tunes loaded. There are no codes being set. The weird thing is if your drive it relatively easily it never does it, and it never does it while it is actually under high load, at WOT it pulls like crazy until you let off a bit and then it happens.. It also doesn't do it every time but it is fairly often. It has edge insight with fuel pressure monitoring added, ICP doesn't drop out and neither does fuel pressure. What could cause it to do that?
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My 2005 PT Cruiser Limited 2.4 Turbo bucks under acceleration and had displayed the codes for a bad Map Sensor, Throttle Positioning Sensor, and Oxygen Sensor. I replaced both Oxygen Sensors, Map Sensor and the TPS. Each time I replaced a sensor and took it out for a test drive it ran great. The next day my wife is on her way to work and I am on the phone with her, she accelerates to get on the freeway and the bucking is back. The codes it displays now are P2074, P1697 & P0038. All the previous codes except P0038 disappeared when I disconnected the ground cable for 15 minutes after the repair. I start the car every morning for her and run the heater for 15 minutes as it is in the 30's here in the morning and so I replicate that before I take it on a test drive after completing a repair so the conditions are the same.
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I am usually on 6.0 site and don't know much about a 5.4 gasser, hope to get some tech info. My buddy was driving to my house yesterday and his 06 F-150 with a 5.4 liter just shut off while driving. He got it restarted on first try, all engine vitals normal. I sent him to Advance Auto Parts and they pulled codes; P-2112 and P-2104 and throttle actuator stuck closed. Engine is running fine and he has driven it about 100 miles since yesterday with no problems. 06 F-150 5.4 liter 58,000 miles.
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I searched but couldn't immediately find anything about this particular line. I've been struggling with a rough idle for the past couple weeks, throwing codes that I'm running to lean all the time. I cleaned the throttle body and MAF, and was in the process of replacing the MAF and noticed a small hose fitting behind the MAF but before the throttle body was pretty much split in half. I don't know what it's for and I'm replacing it regardless, but could this be the source of my problem?
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Im working on a 2001 arctic cat 300. After it is started it will run fine for 5-20 sec. 5 sec at idle, and around 20 with more throttle, then it starts to stutter and sounds like a two stroke. If I open the throttle too much, it just dies on me. The interesting thing is that if I restart it, it will run fine for another 20 sec.
The trick I have found to get it running like it should, is to open the trottle very slowly over a period of as much as 5 minutes. After that it will run perfect! The air temperature is that of a typical norwegian summer, ie in the 60s. But it shouldnt take THAT long to warm up. lol
The engine is a four stroke, single cylinder, cv carb, electronic ignition. The carb is the keihin cvk32. What could cause this kind of problems? I have of course taken apart the carb, and cleaned it.
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I recently purchased a rebuilt 2014 Ford Focus ST3 with about 11,000 miles on it. The engine is a turbocharged 2.0L EcoBoost. I usually use 91 or 93 octane fuel, whichever is the highest available. - 6 speed manual and around 285 horsepower (with tune) is a lot of fun to drive. When I bought it, I had the mechanic that was rebuilding it put an Injen cold air intake on it. A few weeks after I got the car, I took the it to a local performance shop to get it tuned. The tune works great and added a bit of power to the car, but now I have a strange issue.
About 1 time out of 75 when I take off, the car throttle is limited and displays the message "Engine fault - service engine now". On one occasion the engine even stalled on me while crossing a highway. Note that this happens while shifting into and releasing the clutch ONLY on first or second gear. In order to get my car running properly again, I need to come to a complete stop and turn off the engine and then restart it. Sometimes the check engine light stays on, but it usually goes away after I restart. The only engine code that is shown is P106B, which has something to do with an incorrect reading on MAF sensor causing the throttle body to close.
Research online told me this issue is commonly caused by a damaged/improperly sealed intake filter or a crack in the intake itself, which changes the angle that air hits the MAF sensor. I have checked both of these and they are good. I have ruled out a bad throttle body control because if that is bad it usually throws another code indicating that it is faulty.
The only thing that I can think of, and I may be wrong, is that when the performance shop tuned my car they tuned it for a stock intake. This would mean that the car does not think it should be getting the airflow that it is and throttles it down to compensate.
I am not sure what to do at this point because (A) the issue impossible to replicate and seems to happen at random, and (B) I cannot just take it to the performance shop and tell them to fix it because I am not sure what is wrong in the first place.
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I'm trying to fix a B5 1.8t Passat, it is usually a pretty quick car but recently it has had an issue where it "stutters" when accelerating. Meaning, if you put your foot down, it doesn't "take off" right away (you can't get the wheels to squeal) (not that I would try to do that normally). I know how the car used to feel, so it's not turbo lag or the ABS kicking in. It seems to behave normally after the initial stutter, it's most noticeable in 1st gear. I replaced the gas and air filters for fun, but no dice. No codes on VCDS shareware.
I can think of a few theories based on searches, but am not sure how to proceed;
- Plugged cat: expensive, not sure how to diagnose positively to avoid throwing money.
- Turbo issue? Wanted to hook up a gauge to see if the turbo is boosting correctly. Need to find a place to plug in.
- Clutch? Unlikely as the RPMs don't jump, and in third it doesn't slip. The acceleration makes it feel like something is slipping though
- ABS misbehaving? Light isn't showing up though.
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I have 2001 F250 7.3L 261k miles.
Over the last few months, I have noticed that my truck is taking longer & longer to start after sitting for a long time (i.e. every morning, after work, etc.) When the problem first started (3-4 months ago) it would crank for 2 seconds & nothing so I would turn it off, let the "wait to start" light go off again (depending on outside temp 10-20 seconds) & then it would crank & usually fire right over like it was new. That seemed to happen only in the morning when it was 70 degrees or colder outside but no problem after work when it was 80+ degrees.
As the weather has gotten colder, it has gotten progressively worse. A couple of weeks ago, it was in the 40s in the morning & it took a solid 8 or 9 minutes of cranking for a few seconds, then trying again before it started. Once it started it did "chuga chug" a couple of times before it smoothed out. Last week when it was 16 degrees in the morning, it wouldn't start at all. I tried for a solid 15 minutes before I gave up.
I will say that as it has gotten worse over the last couple of months, I have noticed that it's cranking w/o firing but I will hear it fire once or twice per crank before it will fire up & run. Once it starts, it runs like a champ. No studders, stalls, slow acceleration, etc. Pulls like it always has. The weirdest part about it is that once it starts & runs for 30-60 seconds, I can shut it off & it'll fire right up every time. If I get it up to full operating temperature, I can go back & start it right up 2 or 3 hours later w/o a problem.
I did notice my oil cooler is leaking pretty badly (that will be fixed this weekend) & my valley has fluid in it but it's hard to tell if it's diesel, oil or a combination of the two because my truck is setup to run on WMO (waste motor oil). I have dual tanks so the OEM tank is diesel & the auxillary tank is WMO. I have 2 mechanical fuel pressure gauges on my fuel bowl, 1 pre & 1 post fuel filter as well as an aftermarket Walbro fuel pump. The fuel pressure when running on WMO has always bounced a little bit between (65-75 psi) but the fuel pressure on diesel has always held solid at 75 psi until recently when I have noticed that it flutters a very small amount between 73-75 psi.
I have verified that the GP Relay works & was leaning towards a glow plug problem but considering it was having troubles at 70 degrees ambient temperature, I'm hesitant to think that's the true problem. I think that might just be adding to the problem. I live in the south so my truck doesn't have a block heater but I'm going to add one this weekend when I replace the oil cooler gaskets & o-rings.
I'm also going to pick up a new Android tablet today (replace my broken one) so I can use the Torque Pro app to monitor ICP, HPOP & InjPW. Finally, I had a DP Tuner chip on it & to remove that as the possible cause, I removed it & the same symptoms continued.
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2005 Prius, 135,000. At 20 MPH on acceleration engine stutters, solution?
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I have noticed a slight stutter in the acceleration when pushing it hard. Seems to be most noticeable 4th gear around 4500-5500 rpm. Is that because I dont have a HPFP? I also notice the fluttery whistle sound that was discussed at length in another thread...doesn't bother me one bit but it seems to coincide the stuttery acceleration. Also, I noticed it upon the very first drive after getting flashed - currently at 2500km.
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06 250 5.4 40k on it, usually when cold and accelerating engine will misfire and stutter and then continue accelerating. The wrench light will flash sometimes but it wont store a code. This used to be vague in occurrence but has now started to be more a common occurrence even when up to normal operating temps.It seems only to misfire /stutter on hard acceleration or towing/hauling heavy loads. The only answer I got from a mech would be to do a computer reflash, not sure why /how this would fix whats going on.
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I was driving the other day and accelerated in 5th and the car stuttered before finally going- I got the flashing CEL. I figured that the car was misfiring and that a coilpack change was the culprit. All my coilpacks are fine and the sparkplugs look good as well. CEL hasn't come back, but the car just feels like it doesn't want to go right away when if i give it some gas when I'm going about 55-65 MPH.
Other guesses would be there is a fuel cut somewhere and that may be causing it?
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I have a 2009 Tig with the APR flash. I had the flash done in 2010 in Edmonton. I have enjoyed it for the last two years. BUT this summer while on vacation the car developed a slight stutter on acceleration. When i reset the computer to stock the stutter goes away. What is failing or how I can repeat it with the stock setting so that the dealer can fix it and I can turn the APR tune back on.
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I have a 2000 Ford Focus with new battery and cables, new alternator, less than 100,000 (barely). Recently made a trip from austin to dallas and back. On the way back, on the interstate, car suddenly refused to continue acceleration (no indicator lights came on); pulled to the shoulder, shut everything off; waited about five minutes, car started up on first try..continued driving; about 12 miles later, same thing occurred. Pulled over, turned everything off, started up again just fine, drove the rest of the way home.
Took it to my mechanic, he ran diagnostics..found nothing. Ran perfectly on short drives around town for three weeks; three weeks later, another road trip...did not run air conditioner or anything extra on the drive; about 30 miles from final destination, same thing...lost speed, wouldn't accelerate, pulled over, shut it off...started right up again and ran fine to final destination. On the way home, about 100 miles into return trip, same thing.. lost acceleration etc. But this time would only keep running correctly for about 20 or so miles each time. Was happening so frequently, had it towed home. Got home, started right up, drove fine. the only thing my mechanic noted on last inspection was the AC would not turn off. Could this be an electrical or switch problem?
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About two months ago, my EPC light came on and my check engine light started flashing while I was driving home from work. Never heard of/saw that EPC light before. The car started to stutter and buck really bad when trying to accelerate (on light and hard acceleration). Also, when sitting idle (like at a red light or stop sign) the car would still buck but not as bad as when driving. The only time the car doesn't buck is when I am cruising, like after I just get done pressing on the gas and the car is coasting basically. I call the mechanic the next day and he tells me right off the bat, it sounds like a Crankshaft Position Sensor and to drop it off so he can look at it. So I drop it off, he tells me he believes it is just a bad coil on cylinder 1, so he swapped it out and gave me an oil change (it was due for one). Picked my car up on a Wednesday, it seemed fine. Then on a Saturday same issues and same warning lights came back on. So I had it scanned at Autozone, misfire on cylinder 1 and 3, random cylinder misfire and multiple cylinder misfire, so I call him and tell him, he said just bring it back he'll swap it out. I changed the coils myself since it only takes 10 mins. The car seemed fine for about a month. Then two weeks ago, all of the same issues are back and same warning lights.
Had issues with the EPC light? Also, is any truth that the Crankshaft Position Sensor can be related to this or was the mechanic completely wrong? Read another post by someone else and there was talk of carbon buildup. My friend is mechanic and said that he thinks it might be a fuel related issue or electrical, since the issues keep coming back. Also, it misfires more when the heat is on and seems like the interior lights flicker a little when it's misfiring at idle, it's very subtle, definitely notice it so I don't know if it's electrical, fuel related, carbon build up or what.
-February of 2014, I had a fuel pump replaced by the dealer (it was for a recall)
-Back in January 2015, I had the ignition coils and spark plugs replaced by a friend (who is a mechanic).
-In July I had the lifters replaced (by the same mechanic I called)
-Been up to date with oil changes
-Use plus gas from Citgo
Going to drop it off at the dealership tomorrow.
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Situation 01 Jetta AEG 2.0L codes catalyst below threshold and random misfires.
•found exhaust clogged due up catalyst. It was actually making contact with the rear O2
-replaced cat as an assembly and reset codes with Ross-tech
• start up, idles perfect no hesitation smooth. Road tested it and upon entering freeway ramp at it started stuttering/misfiring
• CEL flashed for cylinder 3 & 4. Inspected wires found #3 lost continuity, installed new wires.
•road tested and same result but only 4 came back. Swap plug with #2 and retested.
• #3 and 4 misfire came back again
- shooting in the dark to identify which way to go with it I tested:
•compression was solid 140
•fuel pressure 35 psi at idle and 45 when snapping the throttle.
-Suspicious spec is 55-72psi
•squeezed the return line to inspect if the Fuel pressure regulator valve possibly leaking excess.
Psi never went higher than 45 at idle and throttle snap to wot
•graphed the tps signal smooth with out drops or glitches up to values of 84 according to toss tech scan tool
•looking at measiring blocks one item that was odd is engine load at idle 99.5%
-swapped parts with known good parts with a good running 2002 Jetta aeg motor.
•MAF -no change
•ignition control module/ coil pack no change
-today ill be checking fuel pressure at the fuel pump and inspect if the fuel filter possibly clogged.
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2011 Focus 2.0L L4 engine, manual transmission, 70K miles - when up-shifting gears, the throttle remains high, dropping v-e-r-y slowly instead of dropping rapidly when the throttle is released. It is the same when not moving, when the throttle is run up to steady RPM's, then the pedal is released, the RPM's drop slowly. This has started recently, at first I thought it was just 'operator error', and that our shifting skills were deteriorating with age (ours, not the car), but testing has proven the fault lies with the vehicle. I researched sticking throttle issues, and thought I had located the problem as a bad throttle body assembly. Changed it out with a new one, went thru the computer reset procedure,and the problem still exists. No error codes are showing, but the little yellow wrench light is lit on the dash (resets each startup. Vehicle drives fine otherwise, no loss of power, etc.
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I have a 2007 LS460L. Bought it new and have loved it dearly for 6 years now. It now has 70k miles and is under an extended warranty purchased at 50k miles. As a first year model it has had a ton of TSBs done on it.
The problem i have had as long as i can remember is a lag or stutter during medium to hard acceleration. It feels a little like the old turbo lag or like a very mild stutter. It has had the transmission adjusted, had the service manager driver it for a week to try and capture on computer etc. But nothing has fixed it. At times it feels like if you watch the tachometer during these moments you can actually see a bounce (I may be imagining).
I have almost given up and just lived with it. We have tried tranny, type of oil, software tweaks etc.
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Had my 09 Tiguan now for 3 months and I'm noticing that during cold weather in the mornings as I try to accelerate or keep a constant speed/rom there is a jerkiness/stutter to the vehicle. It doesn't seem smooth if I go I faster then it's not really felt.
This is felt right around 60km/hr.. Or slower.
Doing some research appears that this could be the fuel injectors - those were just done at the dealer under recall about 7montha ago or so by the PO. The Tiguan has 147k KM on it.
What could be a possible cause for this? I also see that seafoam could clean the carbon build up perhaps?
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