Ford - Focus :: 2002 - Surges / Bucks When Driving Between 40-50 MPH
Jul 17, 2013
My 2002 Ford Focus ZX5 has had a low idle (not unsteady) for about a year. Just thought I needed a tune-up. Recently, it started surging and bucking between 40 and 50 MPH. Seems to run fine under acceleration, but then when backing off the accelerator, it starts the surging/bucking. The check engine light is on constantly. A diagnostic pointed to the EGR valve, which I replaced, but it didn't solve anything.
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My '90 Ranger is experiencing a pretty bad misfire after doing a tune-up. I changed the plugs (gapped to .045), wires, distibutor cap, rotor button, air filter, fuel filter, and cleaned the IAC. It had a barely noticeable miss before the tune up, that's why I did it. Now, it's pretty horrible.
At idle, it's definitely noticeable, and at cruising speeds (RPM's below 3K) it bucks and surges. The weird part about it is WOT runs are as smooth and (somewhat) powerful as ever! At idle in neutral it will revv up just fine without any hesitation as well.
First thing I did was check the firing order, again and again. Made sure all my wires were properly seated on the plugs and on the distributor prongs. Pulled the plugs back out, they were all clean and properly gapped. I pulled the wires off one by one to try to isolate the misfire, but every plug wire I removed made around the same impact on the motor.
Next I ran codes. KOEO, I got code 95 - fuel pump secondary circuit failure. Don't know what to do about this. Fuel pumps comes on at the turn of the key, relay clicks... KOER, I got 11 (pass code), so nothing there.
Then I hooked a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel rail, and at idle pressure was a steady 35 PSI. I also removed the vac. line to the FPR while running to see if gas came out. I checked for vac. leaks as well.
Now not sure what to check now. I've checked everything I know to check, but nothing works....
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After start up it bucks and surges, acts like it is starving. RPMs fluctuate. Once it fully warms up and driven a little bit it clears and runs normal. This all began after the alternator went bad and battery warning light came on. Batteries never went completely dead, but could low batteries effect sensors or control module. This morning it was difficult to start, not low battery problem, but a lot of bucking and black smoke. I changed the fuel filters and a little better. New air filter last week when alternator was replaced. No codes have appeared.
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My wife has a Mitsubishi 91 Eclipse with an with a 1.8 liter engine and automatic that periodically bucks and surges, especially noticeable under load like going uphill but can occur during straight line highway driving. After doing a complete tuneup, changing the throttle position sensor, O2 sensor, having both the ecu and tcu rebuilt, check all vacuum lines, replaced ignition wires, replaced fuel pressure regulator and checking fuel pressure, replaced injectors,checking all electrical sensors and connections, etc. etc. I, nor professional mechanics, cannot determine what may be causing this condition. At this point I'm thinking either the fuel tank needs removal and cleaning or its the fuel pump, coil, ignition switch, or torque converter. Here's a clue... I'm finding an oily substance on the pavement that appears to be coming from the transmission area. It doesn't appear to be ATF nor oil. I'm suspecting the torque converter is leaking.
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My 2002 CR-V has 126,000 miles. For the last year I have brought my vehicle to the mechanic numerous times because it clicks (sounds from the passenger side dash board) bucks, and stalls while driving, especially if it has been sitting in the sun, causing the check engine light to eventually turn on. When checked by the mechanic it doesn't give a code. It seems to be electrical in nature because in the winter, even though it is significantly less of a problem, my new batteries seem to drain overnight. We have replaced both PCM relays, the air/fuel sensor, and the ignition switch. The problem remains almost unchanged. While highway driving I often have to switch gears because I will suddenly lose all power and could floor the accelerator to no avail. If I am sitting at a light, the vehicle will usually stall if I have to wait too long.
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I have a 2003 Ford Focus ZTS with a ZTec 4-cylinder motor, 5-speed manual transmission, @145K miles (one owner). I had the fuel pump replaced in October 2012. For the past couple of months I have had intermittent engine surges when the car is under load, and it is most prevalent when undergoing heavy acceleration or when going uphill. The engine idles smoothly at about 800-1000 rpm. The problem seems most prevalent when I have more than 1/2 tank of fuel in the vehicle.
I have noticed that when the car is in cruise control mode and surges occur the accelerator pedal depresses as if the engine is trying to get more fuel. Spark plugs, Timing belt, tensioner, and water pump were changed approximately 30K miles ago. Alternator replaced @10K miles ago. No visible leaks around the head or valve covers. Vehicle is driven mostly highway miles in low dust environments. Engine light normally doesn't come on, but today the surges were worse than normal and the engine light came on several times over approximately 1 minute interval. Then the surges stopped and the engine light went out and did not come back on.
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i just rebuilt the motor in my 2002 ford ranger 3.0 and it wont start it cranks over but back fires and bucks alot. took the plugs out and it gets spark and fuel. when it sparks it sparks like multiple times.
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2000 Explorer 4.0 SOHC, 138K miles on it. Runs like new. Except this butt problem since mid November 2010 (2 months) First time this happened it sounded like someone smacked the rear end with a 10 pound maul. BOOM! Was in blizzard conditions. Does it in AWD or 4WD. No tire slippage when it happened or happens. Only happens when:
1. Snowing good or in blowing snow from car ahead of me.
2. Not while accelerating or coasting.
3. In overdrive (not sure when in just third gear).
Had rear end inspected at Ford dealer and no issue was found. Complete driveline given clean bill of health. Dealer did PM of new lube and did the transfer case and front end at the same time as it was due anyway. After this, it usually (but not always) starts as an engine miss feeling and works it's way up to the sudden and violent "BOOM" and then a mixture. Anyway, did it again. Changed plug wires. Did it again. Tranny shop test drove while snowing - no root cause but certain it's not the tranny. Saw B1352 code and said take it to the dealer. Justanswer.com FORDEXPERT guy says B1352 is most likely the X-fer case shift motor. Inspected and replaced shift motor as it had signs of near death and on borrowed time. Did it again. Ford dealer Tech test drove while snowing and freaked out when BOOM happened. He's certain it's ignition. NO CODES!!!
Cylinder #3 (mostly) and cylinder #1 (little bit) showed slight ignition issues on diagnostics. Pinched clip in boot so they were tighter on plug and plugs were inspected OK. Sprayed water mist on coil and it's OK. Did it again. NO CODES!!! 70K on plugs so installed new plugs and second set of new plug wires thinking that RH tire is kicking snow on #1/2/3 plugs and causing short. Did it again. Tonight, when driving the last 10 miles in light snow with bucking 6 times, thinking it might be snow ingestion, I checked filter housing and I see just traces of snow in housing and snow packed into filter pleats at just one corner about 2" triangle. Still plenty of clean filter area I feel. (NAPA brand) filter is 6 months old and looks quite good. After reassembly, I feel around seam of housing and discover front seam not tight. Aha! Perhaps snow is getting into combustion chamber. Pushed in housing bottom and "thump" now it's tight and proper. Battery terminals tight and super clean. Dit it again but just once in 8 miles and was slight engine miss feeling - no buck or kick.
Other possibilities (I'm thinking):
Injectors?
main power to coil?
Is there are snow/dirt screen missing on tube into filter housing?
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I have a 2008 Canadian F250 SD 5.4 triton. Its got 224000km on it and began to get the dreaded 5.4 dieseling when hot and idling. I replaced the timing chains, guides, both tensioners and crank gear. I confirmed the cam timing was correct with the crank key at 6:00 and the chains marks on the R and L. I replaced 2 coils on cyl's 2 and 3. I replaced the MAF sensor, fuel rail pressure sensor, cleaned and confirmed working the crank sensor and both cam sensors. I fixed the broken Bank 2 cam sensor wires. I changed the plugs and replaced all 4 O2 sensors.
Now the truck idles great but when driving it bucks and coughs and has zero power. I cant even get to 80km/hr. The computer now shows codes P0172 and P0174 which means the Bank 1 is rich and the bank 2 is lean. The O2 sensors are working and moving around. The back 02 sensors are both reading in the 0.8Volt range but bouncing around. The front 02 sensors are both moving from 0.1 to 0.8 constantly. The long term fuel trims are +9.5% bank 2 and -4.7% bank 1 at idle. When the throttle is off idle they become +25% bank 2 and -25% bank 1 . How is this possible and what can I do to fix this engine?.
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I have a 99 7.3 with 40,000 on a rebuild,injectors I don't know they do pass a buzz test. What happens is when driving say at 30 mph and I am not needing to give it throttle but i don't back all the way off the peddle sort of at a neutral point my engine will sound rough and seems like its not hitting on all cylinders.it runs great when i give it fuel and idles fine its just the point in between it runs erratic.last year when chasing a no power problem. I did rebuild the ipr, new fuel filter, icp and harness,cps and what fixed it was new fuel pressure regulator (brass was gaulded and causing fuel pressure to crash). No mods other than a bullydog tuner that never goes past #2 setting. I do have a auto ingenuity scanner, what to look for or already know what my issue is.
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i am recently a new owner of a 2006 6.0 F-350. So like any other used rig, it has its quirks. So the one that is bugging me to s the steering. It has been surging hard while driving. It mostly does this when cold. It feels like it's bouncing back and forth then I have to stop and force it from lock to lock. Once I do this it seems to stop it till the next day. I checked the PS reservoir and it's full. The power steering pump looks like it has a slight leak but doesn't seem to be a major issue. The lines going into the steer box are clean and no leaks...
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Description: after 20-30 minutes (or miles) of driving I will begin to get hard bucks (misfires beyond one cylinder) and eventually stall. The car will typically turn right back over - but stall after only a minute or so. If I leave the car off for around 15 minutes it will run fine for a while and then stall out again.
It sounds as if the car is running out of fuel which it is not. The pump remains primed and the pressure is normal.
What I've done so far:
Fuel pump has been swapped
Fuel filter has been replaced
Fuel lines have been verified (even cleaned to rail - injector heads and intake manifold... It's been a fun weekend)
Fuel pump relay has been replaced
I have also recently replaced the ignition coil due to an unrelated issue for which I will provide detail so that you too can rule this out. I had random multiple misfires in bank 3 - replaced the coil and the misfires were gone. When the problem came back I was suspect of the new coil and originally believed that this had failed at temp. This coil has been tested hot and cold and passed each way. I also swapped out for the coil with the issue on bank 3 just to verify.
I have read in a few forums which point towards either the ASD relay (which I was also suspect of early in the process of elimination) itself failing when heated or the camshaft position sensor and or the crankshaft position sensor causing the relay to trip when they are heated.
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I have a new 2015 Subaru Forester and I noticed the following problem: When driving at a constant low speed, in the 20-30 MPH range, the car bucks/hesitates slightly off and on, while driving. At first I thought the engine was missing, but I noticed the RPM was at about 1000 RPM, very low. And a missing engine would cause a "check engine" warning.
So I think this is a combination of the CVT and the engine lugging. The CVT should move down a notch to a lower "gear" but it doesn't, so the engine is forced to operate at a problem speed. A normal transmission would downshift, I would think.
Can I do anything to solve this, other than manually shift to the low range?
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My dodge ram 1500 5.9l surges up about 100 to 200 rpm while driving then goes right back to where it was, whether it is in cruise or using gas peddle =. the truck seems like it runs fine otherwise, i have replaced both 02 sensors and have checked for vacuum leaks but did not find any? I have also recently replaced the fuel filter, installed a cool air intake with a new throttle body gasket, and I have straight piped the truck as well.
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This past January (I live in Minnesota), I started to have an issue with my 2002 Ford Focus 4D SE (120,000 miles, automatic transmission). Sometimes (not always) when I first start the car, either at home or after it's been in a parking lot, it starts just fine, but the car crawls when I step on the gas. Even with the pedal on the floor, it still crawls. At the same time, the speedometer doesn't engage, and the odometer is blank. The engine light is on, too. Then, after the car has traveled a block or so, the speedometer and odometer snap on, the locks snap shut, and the car runs normally. I can get the car to go forward at somewhat normal speed if I put the car in second gear. Again, after a block or two, everything snaps back and I put it in drive.
I have taken the car to a mechanic more than once. The mechanic said the engine light indicated that the speedometer sensor needed changing, but I was not convinced that would fix the problem, and didn't get the sensor changed. I have asked the mechanic to check the electrical wires, but I don't think they did. I have also had a new battery installed. In May (when it got warm again), the engine light went off and the problem ceased and the car ran normally.But in the past couple of days, the car has started crawling again. What's going on? Would changing the speedometer sensor solve the problem, or is it something else? The mechanic can't seem to find anything else wrong with the car.
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I'm aware that this is a common issue for the MK4 and I'm looking for some closure on what the exact issue could be. Whenever I drive my car on a bumpier back road I feel like the car is sputtering and surging whenever I hit a bump and it's very noticeable with the exhaust on my car. Once on the highway the car lost all power for about 3 seconds and then it started working again. I think it might be the coil packs or the fuel pump but I don't want to buy things the car doesn't need. Where to start?
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It sounds like something is intermittently dragging behind my car - like a light piece of metal dragging on the ground. I pulled over twice to look, and everything appears ok. There is also a weird noise that sounds like it could be coming from the trunk - a low pitch rattle. I drive a 2002 Ford Focus manual and this just started today while driving straight on residential streets.
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I am having issues with my 2002 chevy cavalier.
The car occasionally surges forward while idle and revs up to 1500 rpm approximately occasionally when the air conditioner is on... if the brake is not applied I move forward.. the lurches are continuous every 3 seconds or so.
I am getting a code for an evap leak.. I have replaced the purge solenoid valve, gas cap, and checked all connections with no luck... slightly decreased gas mileage has occurred.
A little bit of a slick substance has been leaking from the car.. it has the consistency of water, but leaves a slight brown tinge on concrete.
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We have a 2003 Passat GLX, 43000 miles, V6, AWD. I've noticed recently that when driving at constant speed the engine will surge about once every second or two. It's very regular, and on a smooth road I can also notice a bump in the drive train, very similar to road bumps.
I've taken it to a dealer, since I believe it is a transmission issue, and therefor covered under warranty. There are no computer codes stored for faults in the transmission, they've said. However, they started by pursuing the fuel injection system (though no code was stored), and then wanted to fix a faulty coolant sensor (since found not to be faulty).
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I have a 1990 mercury cougar its having a weird issue its like it surges when driving at higher speeds you feel a small push-pull feeling, also going up hill its like i loose throttle at about 20mph then i feather the gas for a second and it comes back and this repeats at about 40mph or when I need to pass or speed up in general i took it into my ford dealership they plugged it in told me it was the egr valve the dpfe senor and the tpi sensor which all have been replaced still having the same issue took it back in he told me it was my alternator and fuel relay switch both replaced brand new as well still having the same issue most of my family is all mechanics and there completely stumped and this didn't come on slowly i noticed it last week on the way back from work. I've also replaced spark plugs properly gaped fuel filters hell replaced the suspension air filter oil change the works and well were all at a loss of what it is?
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I recently installed a cold sensor to my 2002 ford focus due to it trying to stall out in cold weather. It is still trying to stall out even with the cold sensor what else could be the problem?
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