Ford - Focus :: 2000 - Heater Core Started Leaking
Oct 28, 2016
Coworker's 2000 Focus's heater core started leaking on his 50m commute this morning. He is ready to donate the car at this point. Any stop leak product (i.e. Bars) that would stop the leak without clogging the cooling system.
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I have a 89 ford mustang with 4 cylinder. After being stored for the winter I noticed anti-freeze leaking from drain tube below heater core (small amount). I am not looking forward to replacing the heater core in this car! Any reason this happened after the car sitting in storage all winter??? or just a coincidence??
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I have a 08 f-150 with a 5.4. Started smelling anti-freeze in the cab, with that classic windshield haze of a leaking heater core. I don't have anything on the floor, nor is the engine heating up. Temp gauge is where it always is. This doesn't smell all the time.I just drove 4 1/2 hrs. with no problems. Other than the heater core ?
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I have a 2000 F-150 5.4L 4x4. I am currently deployed and my wife has the truck. Just yesterday she told me my heater core went out again the only way she knows this is its the 4th time in just over a year. What would cause a heater core to go out so many times in a short period? What should I have my wife do? I do not want to get rid of my truck and I wont be back for another few months.
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I purchased a 2002 Dakota and have had a hard time ridding it. I thought that the heater core was leaking and getting the passenger side floor wet, but it's the overflow for the evaporator under the dash. The drain must be plugged. Will I have to remove the dash to pull the heater unit down far enough to clean it. I don't think I can do much from under the hood...too tight.
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I have an 02 passat with about 85K and the other day my windows would not clear up and a faint smell of antifreeze. also when temp control is in cool and you move the temp control to warm steam comes out of vents. I need to know if i could change this myself and if any procedure on how to do it.
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The problem started when his heater core was leaking coolant and it dripped all the way down to his original ECU. Car stopped working. Then he went to a Hyundai dealer to fix the problem but they said he had to buy a brand new one. First ECU didn't work. Returned it and bought one more expensive. Dad told me it worked but he didn't by pass the heater core so coolant dripped again. So now I'm on my third ECU but it doesn't work. I've read online that some older cars have plug-and-play type of ECUs that aren't restricted to the VINs. His car is a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS FWD 4dr 3.5L.
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I need to back flush the heater core in my 2000 EX with a 6.8. Looking at the outlet hose I don't see anywhere to separate it, do I need to cut the rubber section and put a flushing "T" in it ?
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Truck has recently developed a weird overheat issue. Ill try to give a s much background as possible:
I changed the heater core in the winter and that definitely cured the lack of interior heat issue the truck had since I got it. Blows hard and hot now. (I suspect I should also swap out the rear one too)
On occasional since then I have noticed the odd time a "gurgling sound" in the heater core area. Its not all the time but here and there.
Within the last 3 weeks or so I have gotten a check engine light. I've been a bit too busy to address it, and don't tend to drive very far (work and back) but have downloaded the comp and have a P0174 and P1299. Now just in the last 5 days I have noticed the temp gauge , which is normally firmly parked at about 1/3 in the zone has moved up to nearly the hot area. I can easily bring it back down by using full heat. I have cleared the codes and they haven't returned yet, but I'm suspicious of them non the less.
What can cause lean on only one bank? I have looked at the usual suspects and don't see any obvious leaks. Is it very common to have a intake gasket leak? what's the easiest way to check for that?
My rad appears in good shape although the AC condenser is pretty beat up. I'm definitely going to flush out the coolant, it looks good and used.
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I cant find my original post but I am reporting back on a low heat output issue. Not the climate door. It was the heater core clogging up. Instead of replacing, this is what I did. Purchased a "drill pump" and some clear hose and some CLR. Cut both the heater hoses,taking consideration of where best to install "T" connectors.
While hoses disconnected,filled heater core with CLR(as much as I could get in it). Hooked clear hose,drill pump configuration,on to the heater hoses. Ran drill pump in both directions for several minutes and stopping and letting it sit for a few minutes.
About 1 hour all together. Pieces of debris came out of the heater core and I could see it through the clear hose. Flushed the heater core out. Installed "T" connectors and it is heating very well now.
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We got our first taste of fall weather in Houston this weekend, and with it I've discovered a new problem with my truck. After the engine was up to temp, I noticed that the heater would blow cold air any time I sat at idle. If you rev up the rpm's to 1500-2000, you can feel the air start to get warm again. I'm guessing this means my heater core needs to be backflushed.
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How difficult is it to remove and install a heater core on a 2000 Toyota Camry with 4 cyc ?
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Plastic coupling between core and hose, is there a specialty to needed to remove from heater core?
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2005 Ford E Series heater core is "always on"?
That is, coolant always circulate through the core, there is no "valve" that turns it on or off.
The HOT / COLD dial opens and closes a door (vacuum operated) that allow air to enter the heater core area?
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My commute into the office was more difficult than usual because of the fumes pouring out of the vents. I have a 1997 F-150 5.4 V8. should I remove both in and out hoses from the firewall and connect them with a plastic fitting not to risk breaking the aluminum fittings on the motor?(There is an advanced a mile away) OR is it possible for me to remove the in hose from the firewall and remove the out hose from the motor, and run the in hose directly into the motor. Are the fittings the same and can I do that with limited time and tools?
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My 2000 F150 started leaking from a small pin hole in the coolant bypass pipe that is located on the top / front of the intake manifold, it is the pipe that flows toward the heater core. I decided to remove it without pulling the intake "being lazy". I almost had it and it snapped, while trying to retrieve the piece that was still in the hole It broke and part fell into the intake, I assume into the head in one of the coolant ports. I have removed the intake and still cant seem to see it or retrieve it. I have tried a shop vac, and a magnet wand, still nothing. While pulling a vacuum I noticed that I had flow / suctions from all my cooling ports on both heads, the line from the heater core, and even my top radiator hose.
So I guess my question is, If I cant get this out and it fell into one of the water jackets in my block will it hurt anything??? I know rust and other things end up in there anyway. I still haven't given up on removing, I am really in need of answers,, in case I cant remove it. I do know the flow of coolant is up through the pipe I was trying to replace, and either through the heater core (hose), thermostat, or maybe the bypass back to pump.
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The heater on my 2001 ford F150 is not heating. The blower is working, the inlet hose is hot, the outlet hose is cold. Removal of hoses confirms that there is very limited flow through the heater core. I flushed it but got only minimal improvement. However when I back flush (reversing the flow through the core) the flow is great. Here's the question: Can I reverse the flow through the heater core on a permanent basis? It seems this would give the needed flow of hot fluid through the core to allow heating. Is there a problem with doing this?
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Ford dealership is having problems with heater core repair. 2002 Ford F150 Supercrew. Problem is antifreeze (or early on just smell) in the cabin. 4 heater core replacements in 2 years. A hose (?) replaced. Electrolysis kit replaced. 4th heater core replacment finished yesterday. I know that I need to let the dripped antifreeze work out of the system, but I am smelling mild antifreeze this AM. Usually gets worse over 2-3 days then I have to take it in. What might be being missed here?
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1991 F250 Diesel. I'm on my 5th heater core in the past 18 months. This last one lasted less than 500 miles. I'm using the Spectre brand from Autozone. I find it hard to believe i could have gotten 5 bad ones in a row. I have pressure checked the system and it's normal. There is no fluctuations in the readings, so I doubt there is a head gasket issue.
I checked for stray voltage in the coolant and the results never got above .17 volts, but it was usually lower than that. I thought I had an electrolysis issue when I noticed the heater core tubes touching the firewall, so for this last core, I insulated the tubes, but that didn't work. I've checked everything I can think of. The truck has 117K miles on it. I don't drive it much, less than a few thousand miles a year.
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How to replace the heater core?
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Friend of mine has a 99 Ford F150 with the 5.4L. He thinks the heater core has gone on it as it blows a mist through the top vents when he turns the heater on. He can also smell antifreeze. Up here in Canada, its, well quite cold, nuff said about that. He has had estimates of anywhre from $800-$1000 to change it whereas the cost of the core is below $100. Is there anywhere that he can get a diagram.... of how to change it, all he knows was that he was told to remove the entire dash to gat at it.. Is that true ?
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